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Wires to the battery (newby)


Lewie

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Picking the T7 up Friday and I’d like to add a couple of bits

1stly some Oxford adventure heated grips - direct to the battery or tap into the 3 pin aux socket on the throttle side?
2ndly a fused Sae lead to connect a trickle charge etc 

is it ok to bolt on say 2 pairs of wires to the battery (Sae and grips)?

it’s my 1st bike with some modern electric tech
thanks

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Charger connect straight to battery. 

Heated grips to three pin plug behind side panel. 

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Definitely do the grips from the 3 pin plug that way you don't have to worry about forgetting to turn them off. 

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Ok thanks

i think the adventure grips power down if no movement is detected

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36 minutes ago, Lewie said:

Ok thanks

i think the adventure grips power down if no movement is detected

 

They do, but I didn't trust it and went direct to battery with a switched live connection.

 

TIP: Add Gorilla Glue to the provided adhesive when installing the grips. I didn't and the clutch side is moving after a couple of hundred miles.

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  • AZJW changed the title to Wires to the battery (newby)

@Lewie For what it's worth, I ran Oxford heated grips on my last bike, wired directly to the battery.  I usually remembered to turn them off, but when I forgot the auto shutoff always worked for me.  And, I had them on the battery terminals along with an SAE connector.  I plan to install them on my T7 just the same way, unless someone has a convincing reason otherwise.

 

One comment as well about grip glue - if you don't already have a favorite - the Motion Pro grip glue worked well for me.  On the plus side, it's more like rubber cement, so it can be removed and is forgiving if you make a mistake.  On the negative side, the left grip took several rides to fully set.  It would loosen up when heated during the first few rides, but then eventually it fully set and has been rock solid for a few years.  Just be sure to return the grip to the position you want, so that when it sets for good, it's good.

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On 3/2/2022 at 3:00 PM, Lewie said:

Picking the T7 up Friday and I’d like to add a couple of bits

1stly some Oxford adventure heated grips - direct to the battery or tap into the 3 pin aux socket on the throttle side?
2ndly a fused Sae lead to connect a trickle charge etc 

is it ok to bolt on say 2 pairs of wires to the battery (Sae and grips)?

it’s my 1st bike with some modern electric tech
thanks

Take a look at heal tech thunderbox ! Probably won’t be the last electrical accessory you add. 
here is my review 

 

 

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12 hours ago, NeilW said:

Take a look at heal tech thunderbox ! Probably won’t be the last electrical accessory you add. 
here is my review 

 

 

Hi Neil,

My T7 yet has to arrive, but I already have the ThunderBox waiting :). In your review you say 'You still have to wire in a switch if you don’t want your auxiliary lights always on, but that is not what stumps the average garage mechanic like me'. Saddly, when it comes to electronics I'm very much below average (hence the purchase op the TB 🙄). So maybe you can help a bit. I now have piaa fog lights on my to be replaced vstrom - dealer installed.

For their installation on the T7 obviously I'll draw main power and ground from the TB. But: where do I get power from for the switch? see diagram. also plug the 'to switched power (+) into the TB?

 

And while I'm at it. Of course I would like to power my GPS. But if I connect it to the TB, it will only power up once I start the bike. I'd prefer the gps to start up once I turn the ignition on. Does that mean I still should go directly to the battery?

 

Thanks for any insights on this!

   

Schermafbeelding 2022-01-21 om 11.58.17.png

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36 minutes ago, Pilomajajo said:

Hi Neil,

My T7 yet has to arrive, but I already have the ThunderBox waiting :). In your review you say 'You still have to wire in a switch if you don’t want your auxiliary lights always on, but that is not what stumps the average garage mechanic like me'. Saddly, when it comes to electronics I'm very much below average (hence the purchase op the TB 🙄). So maybe you can help a bit. I now have piaa fog lights on my to be replaced vstrom - dealer installed.

For their installation on the T7 obviously I'll draw main power and ground from the TB. But: where do I get power from for the switch? see diagram. also plug the 'to switched power (+) into the TB?

 

And while I'm at it. Of course I would like to power my GPS. But if I connect it to the TB, it will only power up once I start the bike. I'd prefer the gps to start up once I turn the ignition on. Does that mean I still should go directly to the battery?

 

Thanks for any insights on this!

   

Schermafbeelding 2022-01-21 om 11.58.17.png

. But: where do I get power from for the switch? see diagram. also plug the 'to switched power (+) into the TB? Simply put the switch ON the + coming from the Thunderbox and going to the lights. You are interrupting the power to the lamps. 

 

And while I'm at it. Of course I would like to power my GPS. But if I connect it to the TB, it will only power up once I start the bike. I'd prefer the gps to start up once I turn the ignition on. Does that mean I still should go directly to the battery? That is what the WHITE wire is for ( if you want to use it, which you do in this case) find the switched power and connect the white wire to it. Now ALL your thunder box  connections will turn on with the key accessory. 

You can pick up switched power in a number of places but there is a three wire open plug on the left side front panel used for heated grips etc. One of those three is switched. I am not sure if the plug for reading the error codes is switched or not. Maybe someone will reply and advise where the closest switched wire is to the battery area..

 

one more thing. You won’t be using the old replay wiring. TB plus to on/off switch to a wire that feeds both lights the power. Grounds go back to TB ( they recommend that - I asked   
try it all on the floor before mounting everything. I ran my wires up the right side just under the tank. You have access to frame and the wire loom when you take off the side panels. Which is easy but remember which screws go to what holes. 

Edited by NeilW
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16 hours ago, Mapbook said:

Fuze block from nippy norman

switched relay so the unit powers off with the ignition

 

Nice fuse block if you know where a switched wire is. For the same price the Thunderbox will pretend to be a switched wire with MORE connectors. I don’t own stock in thunderbox, I just think is is a no brainer for many of us. 

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On 3/5/2022 at 12:31 PM, NeilW said:

Take a look at heal tech thunderbox ! Probably won’t be the last electrical accessory you add. 
here is my review 

 

 

Ah, that's pretty nice.  I'm particularly fond of it just shutting off accessory power in case of a short, vs. using fuses.  That's bit me in the ass before with my heated gear midwinter - blow a fuse for your heated gear when it's -25C and bad times ensue.  Being able to pop the seat off and simply yank wires from the blocks is not bad at all.

 

It's nowhere near as awesome as a Neutrino, which is objectively better in pretty much every way, but it's a third of the price.  I've wanted a Neutrino for ages, but even the base model at $250 is very expensive, and I've got two daily riders. It's tough to argue for $250/$350 for each of two bikes for something that while super convenient is ultimately unnecessary.  But this? I could outfit both bikes for significantly less than just one Neutrino Element.  Strong value proposition there.

 

 

 

d44451_2dcf3a59ed2d41dab1505f5407931880~

Neutrino offers quality power distribution products to streamline your vehicle's circuit system. Browse our distribution blocks for all types of vehicles.
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6 minutes ago, Wintersdark said:

Ah, that's pretty nice.  I'm particularly fond of it just shutting off accessory power in case of a short, vs. using fuses.  That's bit me in the ass before with my heated gear midwinter - blow a fuse for your heated gear when it's -25C and bad times ensue.  Being able to pop the seat off and simply yank wires from the blocks is not bad at all.

 

It's nowhere near as awesome as a Neutrino, which is objectively better in pretty much every way, but it's a third of the price.  I've wanted a Neutrino for ages, but even the base model at $250 is very expensive, and I've got two daily riders. It's tough to argue for $250/$350 for each of two bikes for something that while super convenient is ultimately unnecessary.  But this? I could outfit both bikes for significantly less than just one Neutrino Element.  Strong value proposition there.

 

 

 

d44451_2dcf3a59ed2d41dab1505f5407931880~

Neutrino offers quality power distribution products to streamline your vehicle's circuit system. Browse our distribution blocks for all types of vehicles.

Here is the important feature of the thunderbox that separates it from any other fuse box. Smart electronics that reads the battery and when it senses engine charging voltage it sends power to your connected device. When it senses the battery is no longer being charged, alternator static failure but hopefully you shut off the engine, it turns off the power to your connected devices. That’s it. You are buying a smart switch that doesn’t require you to find a switched line. That’s it 

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13 minutes ago, NeilW said:

Here is the important feature of the thunderbox that separates it from any other fuse box. Smart electronics that reads the battery and when it senses engine charging voltage it sends power to your connected device. When it senses the battery is no longer being charged, alternator static failure but hopefully you shut off the engine, it turns off the power to your connected devices. That’s it. You are buying a smart switch that doesn’t require you to find a switched line. That’s it 

I'd argue it's more than just the smart switching. The overcurrent/short protection as well without fuses, is a pretty damn nice feature IMHO, and toolless design is appealing (as long as the connector springs are pretty sturdy, wouldn't want wires falling out under bouncy offroad riding).   But really, the smart switching alone is worth the cost IMHO.

 

It does much less than the Neutrino Element/Aurora do, but like I said... $70/90 is a killer deal for a what it is.  I mean, the fuse box I've got in my Tracer cost me about $30 when the smoke cleared, plus a relay, plus a bunch of random wiring dodads and fuses, and still it's not toolless, has only relay based switching, etc.  

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1 hour ago, Wintersdark said:

I'd argue it's more than just the smart switching. The overcurrent/short protection as well without fuses, is a pretty damn nice feature IMHO, and toolless design is appealing (as long as the connector springs are pretty sturdy, wouldn't want wires falling out under bouncy offroad riding).   But really, the smart switching alone is worth the cost IMHO.

 

It does much less than the Neutrino Element/Aurora do, but like I said... $70/90 is a killer deal for a what it is.  I mean, the fuse box I've got in my Tracer cost me about $30 when the smoke cleared, plus a relay, plus a bunch of random wiring dodads and fuses, and still it's not toolless, has only relay based switching, etc.  

you should work for their marketing department. I am trying to keep it simple. The connections are slide in and push the connector Over Center to lock. Not coming out in the bumps. 

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Everything Should Be Made as Simple as Possible, But Not Simpler

~ Albert E.~

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We are all tattooed in our cradles with the beliefs of our tribe

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18 hours ago, Pilomajajo said:

Hi Neil,

My T7 yet has to arrive, but I already have the ThunderBox waiting :). In your review you say 'You still have to wire in a switch if you don’t want your auxiliary lights always on, but that is not what stumps the average garage mechanic like me'. Saddly, when it comes to electronics I'm very much below average (hence the purchase op the TB 🙄). So maybe you can help a bit. I now have piaa fog lights on my to be replaced vstrom - dealer installed.

For their installation on the T7 obviously I'll draw main power and ground from the TB. But: where do I get power from for the switch? see diagram. also plug the 'to switched power (+) into the TB?

 

And while I'm at it. Of course I would like to power my GPS. But if I connect it to the TB, it will only power up once I start the bike. I'd prefer the gps to start up once I turn the ignition on. Does that mean I still should go directly to the battery?

 

Thanks for any insights on this!

   

Schermafbeelding 2022-01-21 om 11.58.17.png

@Pilomajajo sorry I didn't really directly answer your question -if you are truly using this wiring diagram and you have the harness as it is in the diagram above, then you run " To switched power (+)" to the Thunderbox red wire - positive.

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8 hours ago, NeilW said:

Nice fuse block if you know where a switched wire is. For the same price the Thunderbox will pretend to be a switched wire with MORE connectors. I don’t own stock in thunderbox, I just think is is a no brainer for many of us. 

I use the blue tail light wire as the trigger, the thunder box looks a good piece of kit.

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New shoes day!! So excited to wrestle these on!

 

20220307_132144.thumb.jpg.eb2ad6491a7a4fb18c32c3891f7654e0.jpg

 

Dat tread depth, doe.  At 50% wear these will have the same tread depth the stock Scorps started with.

 

Now... Do I install in 50/50 or full offroad direction?

 

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6 minutes ago, Wintersdark said:

New shoes day!! So excited to wrestle these on!

 

20220307_132144.thumb.jpg.eb2ad6491a7a4fb18c32c3891f7654e0.jpg

 

Dat tread depth, doe.  At 50% wear these will have the same tread depth the stock Scorps started with.

 

Now... Do I install in 50/50 or full offroad direction?

 

Didn’t know a tire could go either direction. Is that just this model or others too??

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26 minutes ago, NeilW said:

Didn’t know a tire could go either direction. Is that just this model or others too??

 

Others too.  I meant to post this in the "what did you do" thread, mind you, not here.  Ooops.

 

But yeah, the GPS rear is bi-directional with 50/50 "forwards" and full-offroad "backwards", and (not pictured, that's a GPS front which is not bi-directional behind it) the new "Dual Venture" front tire (which is the updated version of the "Adventure" front tire I currently have on) is fully bi-directional specifically to increase usable life.  Once you're half way through the tire, you flip it around to remove cupping.  Super useful on tires with such massive tread depth.

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