SW upper crash bar install questions

[winddown]

I'm half way through the install and have a couple of questions for the experts here. 

The paperwork says that after installing the RHS bar I should leave the mounting bolts, actually engine mount bolts, loose while I go over and pull out the LHS engine mount bolts and fit the LH bar?  I don't like the idea of have all the upper engine mounting bolts loose at the same time, is this acceptable?  Also it says to loctite these bolts as you go, but if I do that on one side wont the loctite dry before I get the other side pulled apart and fitted and everything lined up?

 

 

My plan is to snug up the RH bolts, no loctite, fit the LH side bar, and then the front member.  Once I feel it's all aligned correctly I'll pull each bolt back out in turn, add the loctite, snug them back up and then do a final tension to the manual specs.  From what I can gather from the manual, the large 12mm bolts at the front are 75 N.m and the smaller 10mm  rear bolts are 55N.m (correct?)

 

Any opinions would be welcome.

 

 

[thepointchris]

No expert here, but my install experience: leaving things loose helps with over-all alignment, allowing each point to absorb a little of any possible inaccuracies. So if, for example, you completely fastened 7 out of 8 bolts, you may have trouble piloting in the 8th bolt, if it sits a little off. 

The "dry" Loctite  isn't an issue,  after all some fasteners come prepped that way.

On the whole, with quality stuff like SW, the install guidelines are pretty well though out. 

 

[winddown]

8 hours ago, thepointchris said:

No expert here, but my install experience: leaving things loose helps with over-all alignment, allowing each point to absorb a little of any possible inaccuracies.

 

The "dry" Loctite  isn't an issue,  after all some fasteners come prepped that way.

On the whole, with quality stuff like SW, the install guidelines are pretty well though out. 

 

 

Yep, I always leave all bolts a little loose myself, but in this case we're talking about four engine mounts up top.  It just seemed a bit radical to have them all loose at once.  Yesterday I installed a set of frame sliders on another bike where only one engine/frame mount bolt on either side is removed.  The instructions were emphatic that only one side was to be removed at a time.  I guess the other bolts on the T7 will hold the engine in place while I line everything up.  Very detailed instructions as you say.

[Landshark]

It will work as described.  Personally, I wouldn't use loctite unless you experience loosening of the fasteners.  Just keep an eye on them and react accordingly.  Simple hey?

[Motoinvestor]

I agree as others have said. Install with bolts loose. I did use locktite. I believe locktite actually activates under pressure from being tightened. Mine bolted right up with no issues.  Best of luck to ya. 

[winddown]

Well the install didn't happen.  The SW bars don't fit the 2022 model, the crossbar is the issue, it fouls on the LH exhaust pipe.  I tried different ways to mount it but the clearance isn't enough, Looks like the new cat system Yamaha has gone for changed the lay of the pipes out of the head.  SW mototech was no help either, just some corporate mumbo jumbo, here is their concussion was after a series of emails with pix attached.

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many thanks for your quick reply.

We have the 2022 Tenere at the moment in our development department.

They say that installing the crash bar is a bit more difficult than with the previous models. The problem was that one side was already completely attached before the other side was installed.   Both sides need to be attached evenly.

 We have come to the conclusion: it is possible - although a little more difficult than with the previous models.

 Kind regards,

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Well I have come to the conclusion that yes, it is possible to install them, if you leave everything loose, then lever the cross-member up the last 3mm with a hydraulic jack, fit the final bolt, and then ride away with the sharp edged cross member pressed into the exhaust pipe.  I can't imagine the pipe will last too long though. 

Like I told them:  "I will either modify the cross-member myself (with a 4" grinder) so that it clears the headers or I'll send the whole lot back to the retailer for a refund.  I only hope the SW center stand I bought doesn't have similar problems. "

Ahh well, it's a luxury problem I suppose, but that's me for SW Mototech.

 

 

 

[NeilW]

Sorry about the 2022 for issue. But on the loctite issue. It takes 20-30 minutes to dry. Just don’t go to lunch In between sides. 
does anyone reading this know what the UPPER crash bar assembly protects?  

[Motoinvestor]

Yea, I agree with you.  That is a definite no go.  I was on mobile with poor reception and didnt notice the bike was a 22.  That brace needs to be redesigned entirely.  I most certainly would not run it that way.  Maybe you can find a mate with  stock '21  headers destined for the scrap bin?  Could be a very cheap solution to the problem.  It would also cut a lb or so from the weight.

[winddown]

1 hour ago, Motoinvestor said:

That brace needs to be redesigned entirely.  I most certainly would not run it that way.  Maybe you can find a mate with  stock '21  headers destined for the scrap bin? 

 

I found an easier solution, I'm pulling them off and sending them back.  There are other issues with these SW-motech bars, guys are stripping the threads out of the head when tensioning the retaining bolts for the guards, they go through the frame into the head.  Some say it's because the engine moves while the bolts are all loose and ergo the bolts are misaligned when tightened up, but I noticed that the SW replacement bolts, which by design need to be longer, are not as snug a fit.  I think they got the pitch wrong and the looser bolts are only grabbing part of the threads, hence stripping them out when tension is applied.  Thankfully I never tightened mine up.

[winddown]

On 3/20/2022 at 5:40 AM, NeilW said:

does anyone reading this know what the UPPER crash bar assembly protects?  

The plastics basically, and probably some of the lower hardware too.

[NeilW]

16 minutes ago, winddown said:

The plastics basically, and probably some of the lower hardware too.

After I get them on I am going to lay it down in the grass and see what touch’s and what doesn’t. 

[winddown]

Well you'll get some practice standing it back up as well.  Lets hope you son't have to do it too often.

 

Yesterday I bought the OEM bars, fitted like a dream, nothing out of place.  They use the original head bolts too which was reassuring.  The Yamaha set uses the upper forward head bolts as one anchor point, the SW bars used both upper front and rear, so you basically had to have the whole engine loose in its mounts when installing.  One thing about the OEM install though is that the rear mounting point secures via a recessed bolt and you need a 3/8 drive socket set to tighten them.  The 1/2 inch socket I tried first wouldn't fit down the recess.

[NeilW]

On 3/23/2022 at 2:50 AM, winddown said:

Well you'll get some practice standing it back up as well.  Lets hope you son't have to do it too often.

 

Yesterday I bought the OEM bars, fitted like a dream, nothing out of place.  They use the original head bolts too which was reassuring.  The Yamaha set uses the upper forward head bolts as one anchor point, the SW bars used both upper front and rear, so you basically had to have the whole engine loose in its mounts when installing.  One thing about the OEM install though is that the rear mounting point secures via a recessed bolt and you need a 3/8 drive socket set to tighten them.  The 1/2 inch socket I tried first wouldn't fit down the recess.

I actually just took the oem crash bars off To install the Camel one finger clutch- love it by the way- and this weekend will install the SW Motech in their place. FYI I have picked my T7 up about 6x since I got it. All too overs. Stop at an in opportune spot and no footing and down it goes. It is a pain to lift even using butt to seat and back up method. Still an exhausting move. 

Edited March 29, 2022 by NeilW

[winddown]

7 hours ago, NeilW said:

I actually just took the oem crash bars off Toni stall the Camel one finger clutch- love it by the way- and this weekend will install the se Motech in their place. FYI I have picked my T7 up about 6x since I got it. All too overs. Stop at an in opportune spot and no footing and down it goes. It is a pain to life even using butt to seat and back up method. Still an exhausting move. 

If you have an earlier model you should have no dramas, just take note of the replacement front head bolts when they go in, see if they seem looser than the OEM ones.  Personally I don't like the install design because it requires you to loosen all 4 top engine mounting bolts at the same time.   Some dudes recommend  you take most of the weight of the motor with a jack, I assume after getting the bike as upright as you can.  I imagine a center stand would be ideal.

[NeilW]

12 minutes ago, winddown said:

If you have an earlier model you should have no dramas, just take note of the replacement front head bolts when they go in, see if they seem looser than the OEM ones.  Personally I don't like the install design because it requires you to loosen all 4 top engine mounting bolts at the same time.   Some dudes recommend  you take most of the weight of the motor with a jack, I assume after getting the bike as upright as you can.  I imagine a center stand would be ideal.

Instructions are specific to complete the right before installing the left. You are not loosening all 4 at the same time. NOTE the !

Edited March 24, 2022 by NeilW

[winddown]

Yes Neil, I saw that disclaimer, the reality though is there is so much freeplay in the bar's mounting holes you'd have to be able to see into the future to tighten the first side up so that it matched the other.  As every post I read about the installation suggests, you have to leave all the bolts a little loose until everyone is in, then proceed with the tightening. 

It's one thing to quote a piece of paper, quite another to actually install this set of bars.  I imagine it could be done as the sheet suggests but the chances are there would be unbalanced tensions in the final setup.

 

As a point of interest, the instructions for the OEM bars have no such admonition on them, they don't need to because you are only removing two engine mounting bolts, not 4.  After going through the process of installing both sets I have to say the SWmotech set is poorly designed in my opinion.  Even the little brand sticker was misaligned, no attention to detail in that factory.

 

 

 

[NeilW]

2 hours ago, winddown said:

Yes Neil, I saw that disclaimer, the reality though is there is so much freeplay in the bar's mounting holes you'd have to be able to see into the future to tighten the first side up so that it matched the other.  As every post I read about the installation suggests, you have to leave all the bolts a little loose until everyone is in, then proceed with the tightening. 

It's one thing to quote a piece of paper, quite another to actually install this set of bars.  I imagine it could be done as the sheet suggests but the chances are there would be unbalanced tensions in the final setup.

 

As a point of interest, the instructions for the OEM bars have no such admonition on them, they don't need to because you are only removing two engine mounting bolts, not 4.  After going through the process of installing both sets I have to say the SWmotech set is poorly designed in my opinion.  Even the little brand sticker was misaligned, no attention to detail in that factory.

 

 

 

I’ll be careful and advise. 

[NeilW]

On 3/25/2022 at 3:24 PM, NeilW said:

I’ll be careful and advise. 

Install was a breeze. I was way overthinking it. I did keep everything not torqued down until all pieces fit together. I didn’t have 4 engine bolts out of the bike at one time. Two in one side and then screwed down- not torqued and then two on the other side - same out and in tight not torqued. Then back to loctite everything. I was watching the engine mount holes carefully and they never moved from their original positions. I started on the uppers but got stalled because of the mounting method I chose for the cyclops lights. Had to take them off. Will find another mounting location. 

[winddown]

Yes you shouldn't have had any problems on the older model.  good to hear it all went well.

[NeilW]

13 minutes ago, winddown said:

Yes you shouldn't have had any problems on the older model.  good to hear it all went well.

Yes it went smoothly and I only dropped on bolt into my skid plate this time!

[winddown]

lol, I took the bloody thing off after the third drop, it wasn't hard to get them out with the mag stick but I wanted to have a look under there anyway.  Damn tight fit getting it back on!