Hello

I want to remove both front and rear wheels to copper slip axles.

Any ideas on the torque setting front nut50-60Nm rear nut 110-120Nm ??

Has anybody removed the wheels should know,thank you in advance.

Allan

From the owner's manual found that the torque for the rear axel nut is 105 Nm. No info for the front, sorry.

Front wheel axle 72nm/ 53ftlbs

 

Just tighten them hand tight in the workshop or you won't be able to remove the wheels on the road if you have a puncture.

So the torque settings are for nothing? I have changed both tires with the tools on my bike. Both front and rear axles were in the correct torque. No problems if you got the right tools with you. 

22 hours ago, Totti said:

So the torque settings are for nothing? I have changed both tires with the tools on my bike. Both front and rear axles were in the correct torque. No problems if you got the right tools with you. 

I believe Ktmmitch was posting advice to those new to Adv riding, but it sounds like you've already got that dialed in. Newer riders might just set the proper torque spec with shop tools, but have never attempted a wheel removal with their on the bike tools. "Testing" their torque settings with on the bike tools at home is a great way to see how close you can approximate actual torque specs, but still be able to remove a wheel when in the back country.

Btw, Rear axle nut (U.S.) = 77 ft.lbs.

if you do not want to bring a torque wrench while you are out riding AND do not want just "feel it" as I personally do not have that feel, I use a luggage scale.

 

Simple math

 

bar length (from center of nut to where you pull, measurement in INCH) MULTIPLY the force you pull (you can read from the luggage scale, measurement in lbs) / 12" = FT-LB exerted.
 

Then you reverse calculate how much force you need to pull to achieve 77 ft-lb when the bar you have.

 

Disclaimer, I only did this on my bicycle, but I know people who done this on their motorcycle. Also this is used as an EMERGENCY situation if you are  not near anywhere of a proper mechanic station/shop.

Sorry for my bad english. What I meant in the earlier post was that both axles were in the correct torque before the operation. I do not carry a torque wrench with me. In case of a puncture I just tighten it by hand and check the torque in the nearest city or village.

Btw, I have had three punctures in the last twelve years. So you could just leave the tools at home and call a taxi when you get a flat tire.

Just as an update: 

Never checked mine and after 2 years I needed 210Nm to unscrew the axle bolt. I am sure I would not have been able to remove the rear wheel out in the woods with a flimsy wrench. 
Lesson learned 😬

Edited July 10, 20223 yr by MGG
Typos

Where do you get tyres that last 2 years?

2 hours ago, Ray Ride4life said:

Where do you get tyres that last 2 years?

Not everyone has the pleasure of touring for a living Ray 😁👍. I’m guilty too I’m afraid, didn’t check chain slack for 12 months. I’ve been in engineering for over 30 years. 🙈😁😞

i dont think ive ever torqued up a rear axle. it gets tightened with the same tools i use on the road...tight. 

3 hours ago, Dougie said:

Not everyone has the pleasure of touring for a living Ray 😁👍. I’m guilty too I’m afraid, didn’t check chain slack for 12 months. I’ve been in engineering for over 30 years. 🙈😁😞

I wish i was touring for a living.

But i am touring at the moment.

Writing this from a wild camp in Norway.