Jump to content
Yamaha Tenere 700 Forum

Rally Raid Suspension


checkyour6

Recommended Posts

Hi Guys,

 

I have had zero luck getting anyone at Rally Raid to help me so I'm reaching out here to see if anyone can give some pointers.

 

I am 205lbs without gear.

 

I installed the Rally Raid open cartridges with 6.0nm springs per their recommendation. 

I installed the Rally Raid Extreme shock with an 85nm spring per their recommendation.

 

Front sag is about 60mm - sat on bike, O-ring moved on fork, then I measure from the O-ring to the seal at the top once i have unloaded the suspension, as far as I can tell this correct.  Preload on the fork is about 12 clicks.

 

I set the fronts per their instructions in the manual (Reb 4 out, Comp 6 out).  The manual says those settings are IN from all the way ANTI-clockwise.  Every other suspension I've had is always all the way clockwise and then back out, is their instruction correct?

 

The fronts feel okay, they seem to deflect a bit - what will help that?  Pretty good otherwise, they don't use full travel.  I rode it HARD today and it took some big hits and I still had a fair amount of travel left.  Less preload? Less compression?

 

The rear I set sag at 60mm.  Took measurement with the suspension unloaded and then with me on bike in gear, as far as I can tell this is the correct way as well.  Not sure how to gauge preload, I don't have the HPL version, just the ring.  Settings per manual - HSC and LSC at 10 clicks out from fully in, and rebound the same.  Rear wants to kick me in the air if I'm sitting, which I'm assuming is the rebound setting.  If I hit a manhole cover on the road its VERY harsh.  HSC adjustment for that? 

 

Suspension is definitely better than stock, but I feel like its still not quite there yet.  If I could make the rear a little more plush when hitting hard-edged things (ie. manhole cover, sharp changes in road surface, rocks) and get the front to soak up the rocks a little better I'd be happy.  Front seems to dive way less than the OEM suspension so that's good.

 

Anyone with Rally Raid stuff that can offer some input would be greatly appreciated!!!!!!!!!!!!

 

I also totally should have gotten the shock with HPL, having to remove the shock to adjust the preload is a PITA.  And if you have lowering links its really tough to get the shock rebound adjusted as the link partly blocks the adjuster.  🤨

 

 

Link to comment
Share on other sites

I have stock suspension on my T7 but I did have RR stuff on my last bike, and spend hours and hours trying to dial it in, especially the rear.

 

If possible, I would find a short track near you with a rough surface, bring some tools, and ride it repeatedly while making adjustments.  Take a notebook, record each change you make, and make notes.

 

In my experience, the HSC on the rear shock is very influential.  I would reduce the HSC and see if you get the plushness you want from the rear.  Start here since adjusting the preload is a pain.  (If your sag measurements are correct, you are at least in the ballpark on preload.)

 

It also sounds like you may want some more Rebound in the rear, as you have diagnosed.

 

I would tackle LSC last.  It is mainly a factor for cornering and slow compressions, like a large and gradual dip in the road.  It won't have much to do with your manhole cover example - that's going to be HSC.

 

In the front, I would again start with compression damping, since your sag is apparently correct.  A little less damping will allow the forks to use more of the travel.

 

Good luck and perhaps someone with deeper suspension experience can chime in here.  It's very hard, though, to know what you're feeling when you ride.  Trust your own observations and judgement.

 

Edited by Zero600
Link to comment
Share on other sites

10 hours ago, checkyour6 said:

Hi Guys,

 

I have had zero luck getting anyone at Rally Raid to help me so I'm reaching out here to see if anyone can give some pointers.

 

I am 205lbs without gear.

 

I installed the Rally Raid open cartridges with 6.0nm springs per their recommendation. 

I installed the Rally Raid Extreme shock with an 85nm spring per their recommendation.

 

Front sag is about 60mm - sat on bike, O-ring moved on fork, then I measure from the O-ring to the seal at the top once i have unloaded the suspension, as far as I can tell this correct.  Preload on the fork is about 12 clicks.

 

I set the fronts per their instructions in the manual (Reb 4 out, Comp 6 out).  The manual says those settings are IN from all the way ANTI-clockwise.  Every other suspension I've had is always all the way clockwise and then back out, is their instruction correct?

 

The fronts feel okay, they seem to deflect a bit - what will help that?  Pretty good otherwise, they don't use full travel.  I rode it HARD today and it took some big hits and I still had a fair amount of travel left.  Less preload? Less compression?

 

The rear I set sag at 60mm.  Took measurement with the suspension unloaded and then with me on bike in gear, as far as I can tell this is the correct way as well.  Not sure how to gauge preload, I don't have the HPL version, just the ring.  Settings per manual - HSC and LSC at 10 clicks out from fully in, and rebound the same.  Rear wants to kick me in the air if I'm sitting, which I'm assuming is the rebound setting.  If I hit a manhole cover on the road its VERY harsh.  HSC adjustment for that? 

 

Suspension is definitely better than stock, but I feel like its still not quite there yet.  If I could make the rear a little more plush when hitting hard-edged things (ie. manhole cover, sharp changes in road surface, rocks) and get the front to soak up the rocks a little better I'd be happy.  Front seems to dive way less than the OEM suspension so that's good.

 

Anyone with Rally Raid stuff that can offer some input would be greatly appreciated!!!!!!!!!!!!

 

I also totally should have gotten the shock with HPL, having to remove the shock to adjust the preload is a PITA.  And if you have lowering links its really tough to get the shock rebound adjusted as the link partly blocks the adjuster.  🤨

 

 

 

When you say front suspension don't use all the travel, do you know that real travel is 200mm (and not those 210mm that Yamaha claims), right?

 

About the shock, I would check the spring lenght. It's not the first time they make a mistake and put a larger spring (made for the 230mm travel shock) in a standard 200mm travel shock). Call them and they will tell you how to check that.

Link to comment
Share on other sites

@checkyour6Thank you for posting this. I'm really curious to see how others have set their rally raid suspensions up, and the methods they used to dial them in. 

 

I'm 5'9" and 180 lbs without gear. Like you, I have the RR open cartridge kit (6.0 nm fork springs) and a RR 90 nm return spring on the rear shock. I also have 20mm lowering links installed. 

 

I ride dirt about 30% of my miles, but those are all on forest roads, no single track. 

 

With the front forks I found the preload set to 11 clicks up from the softest setting to be right for me on pavement. Note, I have the heed bunker crash bars,  so some weight in the front. With this setting I have little to no front end dipping under heavy break. On dirt I will drop the preload to 8 and that adds to a plush feel on washboard roads. I really haven't played much with the dampening & compression (both set at RR recommendation settings). Like you, I would like to become more knowledgeable on the metrics used to dial those in for my skill level and terrain choice. 

 

As to the rear spring, I think the 90nm works well for how I load the bike. I adjust the preload more by feel than sag. With the back empty I set it to 5 clicks from 0 preload. With 15-20 lbs, I go to about 10 clicks. With the bike loaded with a weekend worth of camping gear (60+ lbs) I go up to about 16-17 clicks. I haven't adjusted compression or dampening on the shock itself.

 

 

 

 

Link to comment
Share on other sites

I have a very similar set up to you I have the rally raid open cartridge fronts and the adventure shock on the rear whatever the one that has the preload on it. I'll cut to the chase without explaining to you what I've discovered over the last year riding multiple bdrs including the Idaho Utah Oregon and Colorado trying to dial in my setup.

 

I have 12,000 miles on my T7 with these shocks. Basically these shocks are so adjustable.  Each click really changes a lot.  The default settings for the rear shock and the front forks default is ridiculously stiff.  I'm pretty sure the stock settings are close to a motocross bike. My tail bone couldn't take it so I went on a journey trying to find the most comfortable settings for me keep in mind I'm 6 ft 7 270 lb and I have the springs appropriate for me. 

 

REAR shock:  I have to back the clickers counterclockwise all the way out on high speed and low speed until it stops and then I click both the high and low speed clockwise in two clicks for road riding and four clicks in if I plan on dirt riding.

 

  The rebound on the rear shock (bottom clicker).  Just like the top I back it out counterclockwise all the way until it stops and then I turn it in clockwise only five clicks I have found this to be good for me on both road and dirt. 

 

Ok now the front forks.  I back out both my compression and my rebound clickers counterclockwise all the way until they stop.  If I plan on riding on the road I only turn the compression clockwise two clicks.  Still staying on the topic of compression if I plan on riding on dirt I back out the compression all the way counterclockwise until it stops and then I turn in the compression clockwise four clicks that is all. 

 

Now on to rebound.  I have found that rebound for me is fine if I turn the rebound clicker for the front forks counter-clockwise until it stops and then I turn it clockwise in only three clicks for both road and dirt.

 

When I finally came to these settings I was quite surprised but also please it made me realize I could really load this bike up and the suspension could take it if I wanted to. But for general riding with a light load in my opinion the rally raid is awesome but really needs to be softened from the stock settings. 

  • Like 4
Link to comment
Share on other sites

6 hours ago, Paolo_Ciro said:

I have a very similar set up to you I have the rally raid open cartridge fronts and the adventure shock on the rear whatever the one that has the preload on it. I'll cut to the chase without explaining to you what I've discovered over the last year riding multiple bdrs including the Idaho Utah Oregon and Colorado trying to dial in my setup.

 

I have 12,000 miles on my T7 with these shocks. Basically these shocks are so adjustable.  Each click really changes a lot.  The default settings for the rear shock and the front forks default is ridiculously stiff.  I'm pretty sure the stock settings are close to a motocross bike. My tail bone couldn't take it so I went on a journey trying to find the most comfortable settings for me keep in mind I'm 6 ft 7 270 lb and I have the springs appropriate for me. 

 

REAR shock:  I have to back the clickers counterclockwise all the way out on high speed and low speed until it stops and then I click both the high and low speed clockwise in two clicks for road riding and four clicks in if I plan on dirt riding.

 

  The rebound on the rear shock (bottom clicker).  Just like the top I back it out counterclockwise all the way until it stops and then I turn it in clockwise only five clicks I have found this to be good for me on both road and dirt. 

 

Ok now the front forks.  I back out both my compression and my rebound clickers counterclockwise all the way until they stop.  If I plan on riding on the road I only turn the compression clockwise two clicks.  Still staying on the topic of compression if I plan on riding on dirt I back out the compression all the way counterclockwise until it stops and then I turn in the compression clockwise four clicks that is all. 

 

Now on to rebound.  I have found that rebound for me is fine if I turn the rebound clicker for the front forks counter-clockwise until it stops and then I turn it clockwise in only three clicks for both road and dirt.

 

When I finally came to these settings I was quite surprised but also please it made me realize I could really load this bike up and the suspension could take it if I wanted to. But for general riding with a light load in my opinion the rally raid is awesome but really needs to be softened from the stock settings. 

 

THIS! Man, I tried your settings and went for a quick ride and this is how I expected the bike to feel.  The rear is so much nicer.  THANK YOU!  I was a little bummed initially at how $2000 suspension felt but im super happy now.  Rally Raid also mentioned that it does soften up after a few hundred miles, ive only got about 30 miles on mine.

 

You rock!

  • Like 1
Link to comment
Share on other sites

On 7/11/2022 at 4:05 AM, JB700 said:

Any updates?

 

Did you get some settings to suit you better???

 

 

Yes!  This post fixed it for me and it feels great.

 

 

"I have a very similar set up to you I have the rally raid open cartridge fronts and the adventure shock on the rear whatever the one that has the preload on it. I'll cut to the chase without explaining to you what I've discovered over the last year riding multiple bdrs including the Idaho Utah Oregon and Colorado trying to dial in my setup.

 

I have 12,000 miles on my T7 with these shocks. Basically these shocks are so adjustable.  Each click really changes a lot.  The default settings for the rear shock and the front forks default is ridiculously stiff.  I'm pretty sure the stock settings are close to a motocross bike. My tail bone couldn't take it so I went on a journey trying to find the most comfortable settings for me keep in mind I'm 6 ft 7 270 lb and I have the springs appropriate for me. 

 

REAR shock:  I have to back the clickers counterclockwise all the way out on high speed and low speed until it stops and then I click both the high and low speed clockwise in two clicks for road riding and four clicks in if I plan on dirt riding.

 

  The rebound on the rear shock (bottom clicker).  Just like the top I back it out counterclockwise all the way until it stops and then I turn it in clockwise only five clicks I have found this to be good for me on both road and dirt. 

 

Ok now the front forks.  I back out both my compression and my rebound clickers counterclockwise all the way until they stop.  If I plan on riding on the road I only turn the compression clockwise two clicks.  Still staying on the topic of compression if I plan on riding on dirt I back out the compression all the way counterclockwise until it stops and then I turn in the compression clockwise four clicks that is all. 

 

Now on to rebound.  I have found that rebound for me is fine if I turn the rebound clicker for the front forks counter-clockwise until it stops and then I turn it clockwise in only three clicks for both road and dirt.

 

When I finally came to these settings I was quite surprised but also please it made me realize I could really load this bike up and the suspension could take it if I wanted to. But for general riding with a light load in my opinion the rally raid is awesome but really needs to be softened from the stock settings. "

Link to comment
Share on other sites

  • 5 months later...

I too struggled initially with the fork set up. I now run no comp and ten clicks rebound, for most of my riding. I found the front end way to chattery with any amount of compression, unless on whoops and getting air, then I will add some comp, try a bit more rebound in the front if you feel it is still bouncy. By the way, with gear I weigh 180 and have the 6.0 springs with no preload or preload spacers. 

Edited by Svrider
Link to comment
Share on other sites

  • 6 months later...

I have a question regarding the shock and the lower mount bolt that is supplied. Mine is having some play, so much that it clunks when I lift the rear wheel slightly off the ground. It doesn’t feel right, but this is beyond my knowledge. It’s all good when I sit on the bike and make it bounce, as it is compressed.

Link to comment
Share on other sites

1 hour ago, JayD said:

I have a question regarding the shock and the lower mount bolt that is supplied. Mine is having some play, so much that it clunks when I lift the rear wheel slightly off the ground. It doesn’t feel right, but this is beyond my knowledge. It’s all good when I sit on the bike and make it bounce, as it is compressed.

Lots of bikes have this issue, some more than others.

Manufacturing tolerances and wear between the bolt and the bushing over time creates some clearance between the bolt and bushing.  

As you noticed you don't feel the play until the wheel leaves the road and it can drop exposing the issue of play between those items.

 

I always get these items greased as soon as possible on a new bike and this helps extend the life of these two items.

If you want to tighten this up you need a new bolt and lower bushing the shock attaches to.

 

Personally I don't consider it a big deal, and have no issue running it like this for a long time, with regular greasing.

I have seen brand new bikes where you can feel this, so sometimes even a new bolt and bushing won't fix the issue.

 

 

 

Edited by williestreet
Link to comment
Share on other sites

3 hours ago, JayD said:

I have a question regarding the shock and the lower mount bolt that is supplied. Mine is having some play, so much that it clunks when I lift the rear wheel slightly off the ground. It doesn’t feel right, but this is beyond my knowledge. It’s all good when I sit on the bike and make it bounce, as it is compressed.

Where are you bud? That will be a mot failure if you’re in uk(if it’s play in the bushes). Is everything tightened well? Or is this all in the shock itself?

Edited by Dougie
Link to comment
Share on other sites

@JayD did you use the lower mounting bolt from Rally Raid that should have come with your shock? 

Link to comment
Share on other sites

Thanks a lot for chiming in fellas, as @williestreet states, this is somewhat common. I recall this movement being much bigger on the OEM shock. I just felt it was more than usual when I mounted the shock yesterday after changing the spring.

 

I went to my friends and checked his WR with the same shock but newer, same amount of «play».

Link to comment
Share on other sites

Guys, I'm trying to decide if is it worth spending more or just spring replacement would do for my case. I mostly ride T7 for the sake of adventure on/off-road and I'm being conscious about my skill which is beginner off-road. 

 

 

Link to comment
Share on other sites

@Baramon if you are not riding hard off road, the Rally Raid suspension is probably not ideal for you.  It is excellent at soaking up hard hits, but if you are just getting into adventure riding you are not likely to be doing that type of riding. 

 

It's not that expensive to go for a spring now, and then upgrade later if you feel the need. 

 

That said, I have the Rally Raid open cartridge forks and Extreme shock and am quite happy with them. 

  • Like 2
Link to comment
Share on other sites

3 minutes ago, Hollybrook said:

@Baramon if you are not riding hard off road, the Rally Raid suspension is probably not ideal for you.  It is excellent at soaking up hard hits, but if you are just getting into adventure riding you are not likely to be doing that type of riding. 

 

It's not that expensive to go for a spring now, and then upgrade later if you feel the need. 

 

That said, I have the Rally Raid open cartridge forks and Extreme shock and am quite happy with them. 

 

Just to be on the same page what is hiding hard off-road for you?

I'm leaning more now toward just stiffer springs and Scott's damper getting harder springs cos I already have RR 85NM spring fitted. 

Link to comment
Share on other sites

Hard riding for me is treating the T7 a bit like a motocross or enduro bike - high speeds over rough terrain.  I used to bottom out my stock suspension all the time, even on fairly easy trails.  Now, I occasionally bottom out the suspension, but the RR hydraulic bump stop never leaves me feeling like it is a very abrupt hit, and I rarely get to it.

 

Basically, I can jump the bike and hit water bars at speed without feeling like the bike is out of control after bottoming the suspension.

  • Like 2
Link to comment
Share on other sites

That's  a great answer, and this is not something I'm ready to until I get more experience on a proper enduro. Alrighty saving money getting springs. Thanks man.

  • Like 1
Link to comment
Share on other sites

  • 2 months later...

Has anyone tried out 2.5W fork oil to see if it makes for a plusher ride? 

 

I recently got the RR open cartridge fork kit installed and have like most been through numerous iterations of compression and rebound settings to get the magic carpet ride - but haven't achieved what i was expecting from this kit - which is a plush ride. I ride mostly gravel roads and the occasional single track at slow speed. My clickers have ended up at zero comp and 4 rebound - but still find it too harsh on small hits. I am using the softest spring available at 5.6.

 

Before going to a shop for possible revalving I was wondering your thoughts if a lighter oil would help? From my reading in theory yes it should help with less comp dampening but it would also affect the rebound dampening, which i would hope could be able to control by the clickers since i am only at 4 currently.

 

The supplied oil 5W Maxima is 16 cst, while i can source locally Putoline HPX R 2.5W at 6 cst.

Edited by EzzySurf
Link to comment
Share on other sites

When I bought my Rally Raid open cartridge fork inserts, John Mitchinson (@Ktmmitch) suggested that increasing the air gap (i.e. lowering the oil level in the forks)  would make the ride more plush. It sounds like this is something you might consider. 

 

Have you contacted Rally Raid for advice? 

  • Like 1
Link to comment
Share on other sites

@Hollybrook this is interesting indeed - thanks for the heads up! I was going to contact John as i have been in contact with his team during the purchase process for guidance to get the right spring for my intended application.

  • Like 1
Link to comment
Share on other sites

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now

Our Friends

Tenere across the USA

Tenere 700 Forum. We are just Tenere 700 owners and fans

Tenere700.net is not affiliated with Yamaha Motor Co and any opinions expressed on this website are solely those of ea individual author and do not represent Yamaha Motor Co or Tenere700.net .

×
×
  • Create New...

Important Information

We have placed cookies on your device to help make this website better. You can adjust your cookie settings, otherwise we'll assume you're okay to continue.