Soon to be Ténéré owner w/questions

[WingVetteStrom]

Hello all.  I'm finally down to number two now on a dealer's list here in the Great Pacific Northwest, so hopefully anticipate a call this fall or earlier.  (In spite of ridiculous markups for shipping and setup and "Doc fee".   GGRRR.  Oh well, that's the marketplace.)

 

I'm familiar with the pluses and minuses of the bike after extensive Youtube videos (lots of plusses, minuses = seat height, muffler attachment point, suspension a bit soft, tank size, hard to pick up after a get off, and fuel remaining readout.)

 

1.    I sat on one finally and was a bit shocked at the seat height, but only because I'm 5'7"/170cm with a 30"/76cm inseam I suppose.    I almost called it quits after sitting on it, but have thought about getting the lower seat (albeit for long long days could be uncomfortable due to lack of padding) and then I thought of putting elevator pads in my boots.  I bought some and sure enough on my VStrom (which I raised to gain more ground clearance) they put my heals substantially closer to the ground.

So question is has any other vertically challenged humanoids tried these two options and did they  work for you?   I don't want to lower the bike with longer dogbones, as I ride my ADV bikes south of the border in LATAM every winter, and the speed bumps and road conditions down there can be horrendous.

 

2.   My minimum farkle list is: crash guards, extra lighting to make myself more visible, lower seat, better windscreen, skid plate that doesn't attache to the engine, side racks to accommodate my Kriega soft bags,  extra gas (Rotopax or Acerbis tank options?), large luggage rack, power ports, center stand, TPMS, handguard/Barkbuster type, heated grips, throttle lock, fuseblock, handlebar risers, and better "crashproof" mirrors.   

 

I have all these farkles on my VStrom, but would appreciate unbiased advice from those of you who have had good (or bad) luck with stuff on this list.

I'm going to be buying Alpina tubeless wheels.  (Please let's not get into a pillow fight about this issue.  .   )

 

I'm about 10/90 offroad/onroad.  No gnarly stuff unless accidental.

 

Any other tidbits of wisdom about the bike also welcome.

 

 

 

 

[Goody Boy]

I'm a 173 cm so we're about the same height. I went with the Yamaha 20 mm lowering links for the 1st 5k km then I put it back to stock after getting used to the seat height and characteristics of the bike. If you're riding 10/90 road biased, you won't notice the lower clearance. You'll only notice it in the gnarly stuff. So I would suggest the Seat Concepts low seat (seems to have good reviews online) and the 20 mm lowering links, which you can always remove anyway.

 

[WingVetteStrom]

16 hours ago, Goody Boy said:

I'm a 173 cm so we're about the same height. I went with the Yamaha 20 mm lowering links for the 1st 5k km then I put it back to stock after getting used to the seat height and characteristics of the bike. If you're riding 10/90 road biased, you won't notice the lower clearance. You'll only notice it in the gnarly stuff. So I would suggest the Seat Concepts low seat (seems to have good reviews online) and the 20 mm lowering links, which you can always remove anyway.

 

Any feedback on the Seat Concepts low seat vs. OEM low seat?

Won't be using lowering links as ground clearance is real important for the places I go south of the. border.

[mpb1]

I'd personally lighten up your list.  There are tons of ways to live without a 10lb centerstand.

The lighting is fine, people aren't going to "not see you" the front of ghe bike is covered in laser beams.  I did swap to brighter turn signals that light up white as daytime riding lights when not turning, maybe that?

I have seen a lot of skid plates, and none of them attached to the engine.  I ended up with the acherbis with linkage guard, it is quiet, slippery, and lighter by a long ways than anything else I could find with a linkage guard.  Pounds lighter, and cheaper.

You probably don't need a fuse block, there are two fused lines that dead end up front for oem fogs and heated grips, use those, they're fused and relayed, and wires are already run.

I'd ride it before butting handlebar risers on.  You can adjust the handlebars a bit by flipping the stock risers, but for 90%street, id keep it how it is.  Also if you're dropping the seat, that's like raising the pegs and handlebars.  I bet they'll be fine.

 

Edited July 30, 2022 by mpb1
Spelling and details

[N8DAWG]

Great advice right there. 

[Tenererian]

If you're riding offroad at all and standing you'll want grippier and larger footpegs. I have a Black Dog skid plate which I bought specifically because of the way it mounts. There's no linkage guard but I'll add that myself at some point. Enjoy your new bike!

[WingVetteStrom]

17 hours ago, mpb1 said:

I'd personally lighten up your list.  There are tons of ways to live without a 10lb centerstand.

The lighting is fine, people aren't going to "not see you" the front of ghe bike is covered in laser beams.  I did swap to brighter turn signals that light up white as daytime riding lights when not turning, maybe that?

I have seen a lot of skid plates, and none of them attached to the engine.  I ended up with the acherbis with linkage guard, it is quiet, slippery, and lighter by a long ways than anything else I could find with a linkage guard.  Pounds lighter, and cheaper.

You probably don't need a fuse block, there are two fused lines that dead end up front for oem fogs and heated grips, use those, they're fused and relayed, and wires are already run.

I'd ride it before butting handlebar risers on.  You can adjust the handlebars a bit by flipping the stock risers, but for 90%street, id keep it how it is.  Also if you're dropping the seat, that's like raising the pegs and handlebars.  I bet they'll be fine.

 

Thanks.  Good suggestions.  Although I'm kinda a centerstand fan.  I travel a lot in LATAM, and it sure is easy lubing or cleaning a chain every night in  hotel parking lot with a centerstand, also for taking off a wheel without a jack if necessary.  The weight is carried low so shouldn't affect too much having to pick the bike up after a drop.

 

Will check out the Acerbis stuff.  

 

Did you need a different relay when you put LED bulbs in for turn signals?  I did on my VStrom.

 

Remember where exactly the dead end fused lines are?

 

Just got a call from a dealer for a T7 in the box, but for $1500 over the same price as another dealer I'm #2 on, so will wait.

Edited July 30, 2022 by WingVetteStrom

[Ray Ride4life]

1 hour ago, WingVetteStrom said:

The weight is carried low so shouldn't affect too much

 

If you planning of going offroad less is more. I don't have a centre stand but a trail jack to take my wheels off if necessary.
For chain lubing i have a Osco oiler and never clean a chain because i don't use sticky grease on it

[mpb1]

7 hours ago, WingVetteStrom said:

Thanks.  Good suggestions.  Although I'm kinda a centerstand fan.  I travel a lot in LATAM, and it sure is easy lubing or cleaning a chain every night in  hotel parking lot with a centerstand, also for taking off a wheel without a jack if necessary.  The weight is carried low so shouldn't affect too much having to pick the bike up after a drop.

 

Will check out the Acerbis stuff.  

 

Did you need a different relay when you put LED bulbs in for turn signals?  I did on my VStrom.

 

Remember where exactly the dead end fused lines are?

 

Just got a call from a dealer for a T7 in the box, but for $1500 over the same price as another dealer I'm #2 on, so will wait.

I don't know what LATAM is, but I've lubed by chain maybe 5 times in 9900 miles.  It is an o-ring chain and just doesn't need this much attention.  My guess is you'd be more likely to overlube it and attract dirt than do any good with any kind of daily maintenance. 

 

10lb carried anywhere in my book will affect performance, I do keep in mind that the kind of person that sacrifices the convenience of a centerstand for 10lb also sacrifices the convenience of may other things, and their bike ends of being 60lbs lighter and rides like a different machine.  I definitely hope you find what works for you.  I did have a centerstand when I started with my bike.  I took it off after about 9000 miles and had used it once outside of my garage.

 

I did get a different relay to control the LEDs to keep the bike from thinking the bulb had burned out.  This is the one I used for $9.99 shipped.  These are the turn signals.  I chose to wire the "red" on the rears to the brake instead of the running lights to make the brakes POP more from behind.  I like it.  They are so much brighter than the stock tail light I fear someone might just not see the little baby brake light if they were already on.  The white front running lights really make a difference glowing up the road surface right around the front of the bike, within 15 feet or so all around the front and sides near the front.  I really like them.

 

The dead-end fused lines are easy to find under the front side fenders.  Right above where the turn-signal connections are.  One on each side.

 

I can't wait for you to get the bike!  I just knocked 200 miles on mine today for no reason.

[Ray Ride4life]

3 hours ago, mpb1 said:

It is an o-ring chain and just doesn't need this much attention

That's a mistake i also made. There is stil contact between the rollers and sprockets and there is a significant difference in the lifespan of the set when properly lubed.
On my Honda VFR (the VTEC, not the 1200X i still own) i had a Pro oiler, a fully automatic and my chain lasted over 70.000km. You have to change the front sprocket in time because that is the main chain killer.

[mpb1]

For everyone's reference this is what a chain and sprockets with 9900 miles looks like if you lube it less than you change your oil.

 

I do see tooth wear on the front, I wonder if I can flip the front sprocket and extend the life of the chain and rear?  I'll ask in another thread.

 

I checked at Rocky Mountain they have the full OEM chain and both sprockets for $258 shipped.  

[WingVetteStrom]

11 hours ago, mpb1 said:

I don't know what LATAM is, but I've lubed by chain maybe 5 times in 9900 miles.  It is an o-ring chain and just doesn't need this much attention.  My guess is you'd be more likely to overlube it and attract dirt than do any good with any kind of daily maintenance. 

 

10lb carried anywhere in my book will affect performance, I do keep in mind that the kind of person that sacrifices the convenience of a centerstand for 10lb also sacrifices the convenience of may other things, and their bike ends of being 60lbs lighter and rides like a different machine.  I definitely hope you find what works for you.  I did have a centerstand when I started with my bike.  I took it off after about 9000 miles and had used it once outside of my garage.

 

I did get a different relay to control the LEDs to keep the bike from thinking the bulb had burned out.  This is the one I used for $9.99 shipped.  These are the turn signals.  I chose to wire the "red" on the rears to the brake instead of the running lights to make the brakes POP more from behind.  I like it.  They are so much brighter than the stock tail light I fear someone might just not see the little baby brake light if they were already on.  The white front running lights really make a difference glowing up the road surface right around the front of the bike, within 15 feet or so all around the front and sides near the front.  I really like them.

 

The dead-end fused lines are easy to find under the front side fenders.  Right above where the turn-signal connections are.  One on each side.

 

I can't wait for you to get the bike!  I just knocked 200 miles on mine today for no reason.

LATAM means Latin America.    That's where 99% of my riding will be on this bike.  I go down there every winter for 2-3 months.  Anywhere from South America to Mexico.

As far as the centerstand goes, to each their own.  Do you carry some kind of trail jack etc as another poster mentioned?

Are the LED turn signals you linked plug and play?

I really am interested in everyone's experience with specific farkles, so don't want to turn this into a chain thread, all I can say is I think the chain sprocket friction area, and the O Rings benefit from staying slippery.  A dried cracked O Ring will dump out all the internal lube.

How did you wire the rear LED turn signals to the turn signal and brake wires at the same time?

Thanks for the links!

 

 

Edited July 31, 2022 by WingVetteStrom

[mpb1]

I do carry a trail jack and tripod the bike on the centerstand and one wheel.

 

The signals have 3 leads, on the rear I cut off the plug end of the wire coming from the stock turn signal, since I'm tossing that part, and wire the wire that blinks 12v power when the turn signal is active to the wire that illuminates the yellow leds on the new signal, then the new signal ground is wired to the turn signal ground.  The turn signal red led power wire is just wired in to the brake light power wire on the bulb side of its connector.

 

On the front the turn signals already operate as running lights, so same idea, cut the lead off of the turn signal you're tossing, wire that into the new signal ground to ground, always on wire to the white LED power, blinker power to the yellow LED wire.

 

This way the chassis wiring harness is intact, and all new signals can be unplugged.  If you want to remove the rears you would also have to unplug the brake light since they are connected there as well.

 

I can take pictures if you need more into.  I'm happy to help anyone not cut into their chassis harness!

[Ray Ride4life]

1 hour ago, WingVetteStrom said:

I really am interested in everyone's experience with specific farkles

Very easy. Don't farkle because everybody else does it or just because you can, farkle because you need it.
That means that the cheapest way is to start riding and discover what you really need or start throwing money at it and remove/change a lot what you probably not going to do.
But remember, if you leave it on when you don't need it after all because you have it and it's just a few pounds it's really a few pounds here but also a few pound there which in the end can be struggling with the bike or just getting along with it.
I had high Motea crash bars and changed them for Heavy Duty Enduro and i do think it's noticeable even though it might be just because the high ones already are in your face and therefore look heavy. They really where over 2kg heavier and high centred compared to the HD Enduro and i can confirm that they protect just the same.

[WingVetteStrom]

1 hour ago, Ray Ride4life said:

I had high Motea crash bars and changed them for Heavy Duty Enduro and i do think it's noticeable even though it might be just because the high ones already are in your face and therefore look heavy. They really where over 2kg heavier and high centred compared to the HD Enduro and i can confirm that they protect just the same.

 

1 hour ago, Ray Ride4life said:

Very easy. Don't farkle because everybody else does it or just because you can, farkle because you need it.
That means that the cheapest way is to start riding and discover what you really need or start throwing money at it and remove/change a lot what you probably not going to do.
But remember, if you leave it on when you don't need it after all because you have it and it's just a few pounds it's really a few pounds here but also a few pound there which in the end can be struggling with the bike or just getting along with it.
I had high Motea crash bars and changed them for Heavy Duty Enduro and i do think it's noticeable even though it might be just because the high ones already are in your face and therefore look heavy. They really where over 2kg heavier and high centred compared to the HD Enduro and i can confirm that they protect just the same.

So what I'm looking for is specific advice on individual farces please.   Like your comment on the Heavy Duty Enduro vs the "high ones".

Can you give me the manufacturers of each of these?   Are both of these OEMs or what are the brand names.   Thanks.

[Ray Ride4life]

Motea and Heavy Duty are the brands.

[Maitre]

On 7/30/2022 at 9:32 AM, Tenererian said:

If you're riding offroad at all and standing you'll want grippier and larger footpegs. I have a Black Dog skid plate which I bought specifically because of the way it mounts. There's no linkage guard but I'll add that myself at some point. Enjoy your new bike!

Regarding the grip, the oem footpegs are quite practical: the rubber pads are removable for off-road riding.

[winddown]

On 7/31/2022 at 7:21 AM, WingVetteStrom said:

Thanks.  Good suggestions.  Although I'm kinda a centerstand fan.  I travel a lot in LATAM, and it sure is easy lubing or cleaning a chain every night in  hotel parking lot with a centerstand, also for taking off a wheel without a jack if necessary.  The weight is carried low so shouldn't affect too much having to pick the bike up after a drop.

 

I went with the centerstand, as you say the weight is low and they just kill it for anything do do with wheels off the ground.   I don't see the overall weight as something to obsess over anyway, hell if you want a lighter bike, you buy a lighter bike.  But with the T7 you are getting the comfort and carrying capacity of the bigger bike and that's the trade off.  I personally counter things a bit by keeping fit and working out, cycling and some gym work at home.  That gives me the edge muscle wise to feel more confident on it.   It is tall though, and I'm 6' but I gotta be careful where I put my feet down.  I might lower mine yet too, it would feel good to able to flat foot it.  I'll start with the seat I think and see how that feels.

[winddown]

On 8/1/2022 at 5:33 AM, WingVetteStrom said:

 

So what I'm looking for is specific advice on individual farces please.   Like your comment on the Heavy Duty Enduro vs the "high ones".

Can you give me the manufacturers of each of these?   Are both of these OEMs or what are the brand names.   Thanks.

 

The OEM crash bars are pretty good for general use I would say, they are not like the OEM muffler lol.  They are low but will protect the plastics etc if you tip it over.  I have never farkled any bike before aside from suspension improvements but this is my first dual purpose bike and the list for me at least has been endless.  Steering damper, high pipe, suspension of course, pegs, headlight protector, crash bars, saddle bags, barkbusters and levers.  I wouldn't have bothered with the levers except the clutch rubbed on the barkbuster and was really too far out.  I did ride it for a while first though and quickly discovered the need for all these.  But to put that in perspective this is my first foray onto the gravel so I want every edge.  More experienced riders can no doubt do without a lot of them so perhaps it comes down to your experience offroad, your confidence and skills. 

[WingVetteStrom]

3 hours ago, winddown said:

 

The OEM crash bars are pretty good for general use I would say, they are not like the OEM muffler lol.  They are low but will protect the plastics etc if you tip it over.  I have never farkled any bike before aside from suspension improvements but this is my first dual purpose bike and the list for me at least has been endless.  Steering damper, high pipe, suspension of course, pegs, headlight protector, crash bars, saddle bags, barkbusters and levers.  I wouldn't have bothered with the levers except the clutch rubbed on the barkbuster and was really too far out.  I did ride it for a while first though and quickly discovered the need for all these.  But to put that in perspective this is my first foray onto the gravel so I want every edge.  More experienced riders can no doubt do without a lot of them so perhaps it comes down to your experience offroad, your confidence and skills. 

I have a list more than an entire single spaced typewritten page of farkles on my VStrom, and I consider all them useful.   Very few weigh very much, and it's also possible to use farkles to CUT a lot of weight.  I saved 26 pounds with a certain type of pannier fastening system, lithium battery, and aftermarket muffler.

Still waiting for my T7..................when when when?

Edited August 10, 2022 by WingVetteStrom

[WingVetteStrom]

3 hours ago, winddown said:

 

  It is tall though, and I'm 6' but I gotta be careful where I put my feet down.  I might lower mine yet too, it would feel good to able to flat foot it.  I'll start with the seat I think and see how that feels.

Yikes.  I'm 5'7".  I can only tipi toe on it.  Will get a lower seat and put pads in my boots.   Don't want to lower it as one of the reasons (among several) I'm selling my VStrom is the lack of decent ground clearance.  Although the DL650 has more, I like the T7.   The DL just feels like a tinkertoy to me when I sit on it compared to the T7.

[T700 Alicia]

I'm waiting for my local dealer to get one in. Outback Motortek is the supplier that I think I'll use for Crash Bars and Luggage Rack. I'll be using Mosko Moto 35 liter panniers. I weigh 325lbs with gear and I'll get the Touratech Heavy Springs. I currently have a 2008 KLR650 that I purchased new and a 2010 BMW R1200GS Adventure that I also purchased new. I'm looking at the Yamaha Tenere 700 to be a more Powerful in between bike.

[witgen]

When I read your list, my honest opinion is that you don't need most of it. My riding is about 90/10 offroad/onroad and I do also gnarly stuff.  I'm of course on the other end of farkling spectrum so...

 

My mods are:

-Roxrisers to move bar forward not so much upward. I'm 6"3' so I need space.

-DIY peg mounts that move stock pegs down and back so I have more room because I'm long. I really like the rubber on stock pegs because they remove vibrations. I only take rubbers off when I'm going to really gnarly parts. Sometimes not even then. If it's dry I usually don't bother. At the moment though I'm back to stock peg mounts because I've been mostly commuting. These are good offroad. Onroad I prefer stock ones even though it gets a bit more cramped, but offroad extra space will make driving from the pegs more comfortable.

-Crashbars when you do gnarly stuff you will drop your bike. Because fairings are ABS they are prone to break. Constantly looking for a lighter option though. Weight is weight and it's always bad. Without gnarly stuff, I'd get rid off my crashbars instantly.

-Heated grips are must when you live near arctic circle. Oxfords are nice. 

-Ultralight DIY luggage rack  weight is weight is weight  

-Springs front and back, but I'm a big guy. I've changed springs to all my bikes. Not just T7.

-Mirrors I think they survived about 20 drops then my right side mirror cracked in the middle. Switch them to double takes and I've been quite happy with them.

-Chain oiler because I'm lazy AF 

-Short adjustable levers you shouldn't have more than two fingers on them anyway so why the hell are stock ones so long....

 

And that's it. I've been designing my own bash plate from carbon fiber and kevlar. Not because stock bash plate is bad but because aluminium reflects engine noise back. So it's more of a comfort thing not because I'm anyway afraid that stock bash plate won't work. It will bend eventually but for now it's held up very nicely. As a disclaimer though there aren't a lot of rocks I can bash my engine on and I'm not (yet) skilled enough to go over big enough tree trunks where the ground clearance would be an issue. 

Also I'm still driving with stock handguards. Nothing wrong with them. Eventually they might break and I'll get barkbusters or similar. But for now they protect me enough. It's not like I'm driving enduro pace on narrow paths where there is a real risk that my handlebars are going to hit to a tree or other hard stuff. If I drop the bike my levers are so short that it's not very likely for them to take a hit. If they do I'm almost certain that I have other things to worry about, not just bent levers.

 

So as you can see most of my mods are about ergonomics and comfort. T7 is a very sturdy well designed bike as it is. If you like farkling and it's part of the hobby go right ahead. But like Ray Ride4life said earlier, farkle because you need it, not because everyone say: "this is a must upgrade, you can't live without it.". There is no point making your bike a tank, if your not going to war. Figuratively speaking of course. 

 

My suggestion for you would be that if you feel uncomfort about the height, get a lowering kit. Way cheaper than lowered seat. With 10/90 ratio and avoiding gnarly stuff, ground clearance will never be an issue for you, so you can cheaply and easily fix the issue with new dog bones. Also it will probably be nicer bike on road because of the reduced ground clearance and off road you won't notice the difference. You'll have much more confidence because your not afraid that your feet might not reach the ground. 

[winddown]

10 hours ago, WingVetteStrom said:

Yikes.  I'm 5'7".  I can only tipi toe on it.

 

It's a matter of relaxing with me, I don't want to be pulling up at intersections and forks and having to be studying the ground to see if there is a dip my foot might fall into.  I was wheeling the bike backwards into the garage yesterday and not paying undue attention and I had leaned it towards me a bit too much.  It almost fell onto me, I had to really give it a shove.  It really is top heavy.

[Alter Ego]

Up front I'll say if you want it and can afford it by all means go for it. It's your bike so make it your own. Since you have the VStrom already built with these items I would say that you already know the answer to your questions. If you are on the fence about a few things you might want to ask yourself how many times those farkles have really been necessary on the VStrom, and based on those answers build the T7 accordingly. The truth is that for most riders the T7 doesn't really need anything except a proper setup for the rider, anything past that is just a matter of convenience and comfort based on how the bike will be used. Directly on topic I can say the Camel ADV bash plate is a beast. On a very important side note; make sure you get enough seat time on the T7 and become completely familiar with it's attitude and personality in all conditions you plan on riding in, especially south of the border.