Best spring nm for my weight?

[Oxxa]

Hello everyone,

 

- My weight is 86 kg + gear

- Skid plate, crash bars, bags, etc on the bike: 20 to 25kg

- Clothes & camping gear when travelling: 10kg

 

Total: 126 to 131 kg

 

Please help me choose a Spring from RallyRaid.

 

Many thanks!

[TexasT700]

85 nm at least.

Maybe 95nm.

[AZJW]

2 hours ago, Oxxa said:

Hello everyone,

 

- My weight is 86 kg + gear

- Skid plate, crash bars, bags, etc on the bike: 20 to 25kg

- Clothes & camping gear when travelling: 10kg

 

Total: 126 to 131 kg

 

Please help me choose a Spring from RallyRaid.

 

Many thanks!

@Ktmmitch at RallyRaid is a great resource. If he doesn't see this, shoot him a PM as he advised me on my 90nm spring and it was spot on. 

[williestreet]

90N

[Butter]

I'm 89kg + gear and found the 90nm spring to be perfect. I think you will have more loading range with the 90nm opposed to the 85nm spring.

For me:

5 clicks from bottom preload with no luggage.

8-10 clicks with tools, spares, etc.

15-18 clicks with full camping luggage or a pillion.

[Oxxa]

2 hours ago, AZJW said:

@Ktmmitch at RallyRaid is a great resource. If he doesn't see this, shoot him a PM as he advised me on my 90nm spring and it was spot on. 

Thats great, i PM’d him i hope i get a reply. I measured my sag today with stock spring its 50%. Crazy

[Oxxa]

2 hours ago, Butter said:

I'm 89kg + gear and found the 90nm spring to be perfect. I think you will have more loading range with the 90nm opposed to the 85nm spring.

For me:

5 clicks from bottom preload with no luggage.

8-10 clicks with tools, spares, etc.

15-18 clicks with full camping luggage or a pillion.

Sounds like i need 95nm so i dont have to do so much preload clicks

[Black99S]

11 hours ago, Oxxa said:

Hello everyone,

 

- My weight is 86 kg + gear

- Skid plate, crash bars, bags, etc on the bike: 20 to 25kg

- Clothes & camping gear when travelling: 10kg

 

Total: 126 to 131 kg

 

Please help me choose a Spring from RallyRaid.

 

Many thanks!

Tenere 700 suspension info | Adventure Rider

---

Here is a bit of info for you T7 owners. I will build on it as i do more. Spring rates. I have calculated these. They are very close to what a tuner...

 

[prowlnS10]

I preferred the RR 90 Nm spring  vs the RR 95 Nm, on my revalved oem shock, for my 99 kg or 220 lbs w/gear riding weight...finding the 95 too stiff for my riding & preferences. Pre-load compensates for ride height & does not change spring rate...you are looking for the spring that will provide the desired ride characteristics for the type of riding you do most often, while providing correct sag & accommodating the additional loading you typically carry.  There is no magic 1 set-up for all scenarios, just the best compromise for you & your riding. My preference is for a compliant ride that allows the tire to track surfaces, while providing correct sag & accommodating the additional loading I most often carry, that may occasionally use up all available suspension travel vs a too stiff set-up that will never bottom out, but tracks poorly over most surfaces....it all depends on how & where you predominantly use your bike.  The oem shock, by design & materials, is limited in effective range of damping & performance/capability despite being revalved, so keep that in mind with stiffer spring selection & type of riding...it is ok for the average rider & use, but ride outside of it's design/cost parameters & a quality aftermarket shock is worth every penny.

[Oxxa]

9 hours ago, prowlnS10 said:

I preferred the RR 90 Nm spring  vs the RR 95 Nm, on my revalved oem shock, for my 99 kg or 220 lbs w/gear riding weight...finding the 95 too stiff for my riding & preferences. Pre-load compensates for ride height & does not change spring rate...you are looking for the spring that will provide the desired ride characteristics for the type of riding you do most often, while providing correct sag & accommodating the additional loading you typically carry.  There is no magic 1 set-up for all scenarios, just the best compromise for you & your riding. My preference is for a compliant ride that allows the tire to track surfaces, while providing correct sag & accommodating the additional loading I most often carry, that may occasionally use up all available suspension travel vs a too stiff set-up that will never bottom out, but tracks poorly over most surfaces....it all depends on how & where you predominantly use your bike.  The oem shock, by design & materials, is limited in effective range of damping & performance/capability despite being revalved, so keep that in mind with stiffer spring selection & type of riding...it is ok for the average rider & use, but ride outside of it's design/cost parameters & a quality aftermarket shock is worth every penny.

Thanks for the insight, thats a new perspective for me. I do 50/50 street & trails on the TET. Not any jumping or enduro type activities.

[prowlnS10]

10 hours ago, Oxxa said:

Thanks for the insight, thats a new perspective for me. I do 50/50 street & trails on the TET. Not any jumping or enduro type activities.

Yamaha used a progressive rear link on the T7 plus has anti-squat geometry that pushes the tire down to aid traction with throttle...so any suspension set-up that is not compliant in the initial travel just gets firmer with more travel.  Getting correct sag has a huge impact on rear shock feel & performance....the oem shock gets surprisingly compliant in the initial travel (slow shock speed damping) with the shock raised in its stroke with correct sag (about 30% or 60 mm), but shows it's limitations in sharp edged (high shock speed damping).  Be careful & gentle when adjusting the clickers & never exceed the number of turns as specified in the owners manual & keep in mind that they are most effective in the middle of the adjustment range. The rebound adjuster threads (bottom of shock) in the aluminum body are very fine & can be easily damaged.

[Oxxa]

22 hours ago, prowlnS10 said:

Yamaha used a progressive rear link on the T7 plus has anti-squat geometry that pushes the tire down to aid traction with throttle...so any suspension set-up that is not compliant in the initial travel just gets firmer with more travel.  Getting correct sag has a huge impact on rear shock feel & performance....the oem shock gets surprisingly compliant in the initial travel (slow shock speed damping) with the shock raised in its stroke with correct sag (about 30% or 60 mm), but shows it's limitations in sharp edged (high shock speed damping).  Be careful & gentle when adjusting the clickers & never exceed the number of turns as specified in the owners manual & keep in mind that they are most effective in the middle of the adjustment range. The rebound adjuster threads (bottom of shock) in the aluminum body are very fine & can be easily damaged.

If i change both rear & front springs simultaneously, do you believe the bike will keep its geometry?

 

i am thinking to go 6.6nm front, 90nm rear.

[Oxxa]

On 8/22/2022 at 12:37 AM, prowlnS10 said:

I preferred the RR 90 Nm spring  vs the RR 95 Nm, on my revalved oem shock, for my 99 kg or 220 lbs w/gear riding weight...finding the 95 too stiff for my riding & preferences. Pre-load compensates for ride height & does not change spring rate...you are looking for the spring that will provide the desired ride characteristics for the type of riding you do most often, while providing correct sag & accommodating the additional loading you typically carry.  There is no magic 1 set-up for all scenarios, just the best compromise for you & your riding. My preference is for a compliant ride that allows the tire to track surfaces, while providing correct sag & accommodating the additional loading I most often carry, that may occasionally use up all available suspension travel vs a too stiff set-up that will never bottom out, but tracks poorly over most surfaces....it all depends on how & where you predominantly use your bike.  The oem shock, by design & materials, is limited in effective range of damping & performance/capability despite being revalved, so keep that in mind with stiffer spring selection & type of riding...it is ok for the average rider & use, but ride outside of it's design/cost parameters & a quality aftermarket shock is worth every penny.

If i re-spring to 6.6nm front, 90nm rear. Should i also re-valve the shocks? 

[prowlnS10]

5 hours ago, Oxxa said:

If i re-spring to 6.6nm front, 90nm rear. Should i also re-valve the shocks? 

Re-valving a shock is always recommended when changing to a properly matched spring for your weight & riding...but is not mandatory...try it with just the spring to see if the oem damping is satisfactory to  you & your typical riding...the compression may be ok, but it's the rebound that may not be able to handle the additional forces, particularly when you pick up the pace or add loads.  I would suggest you do the shock spring & set proper rear sag 1st...then see how the forks feels & what the sag is....each end of the bike impacts the other...the oem forks are not under sprung (0.60 kg/mm or 6.1 Nm) for most riders < 90 kg (190 lbs) & avg riding, but the shock is (70 Nm spring rated for 75 kg (165 lb rider) & all you may need to get proper fork sag is some pre-load spacers placed under the caps...you may only need stiffer fork springs to prevent bottoming for aggressive off-road riding...which is what most dirt biased riders that keep the oem forks do, in part, because the forks do not have any anti-bottoming design or enough damping range of adjustment to assist in proper fork control & resist bottoming.

 

I am a fan of proceeding methodically with changes so that I can evaluate each components affect.  After doing the rear shock, if you like the overall feel/ride with the oem fork springs for the majority of your riding, but find they use all the travel when pushed hard and/or fully loaded & don't want/need a stiffer ride all the time, they can be tuned by changing the fork oil level (& weight)...more (thicker) oil to stiffen, less (thinner) to make more compliant...this adjusts the air gap in the fork which also acts like a spring, but is not linear when compressed like the oem spring. You may be surprised at how much different the bike feels at both ends after properly springing & setting the rear sag...food for thought  Just for the record my oem KYB shock re-valved with an upgraded Show piston kit did improve the shocks performance & improved the effect/impact of the adjusters...which now is more in synch with the Rally Raid 35 mm Open Cartridge Fork Kit w/RR 6.0 Nm springs for my 99 kg or 220 lbs w/gear riding weight & 70/30 road/gravel, non-technical riding.  

Edited August 23, 2022 by prowlnS10