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Coil Spring Experience w/Tusk


Tundratom

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I see mixed reviews with Tusk removal tool. I have to compress a 95N mm coil spring.  Very stiff spring I am told.
1) Will I be able to generate energy to change out without injury? 
2) Would it be safer to add a 3rd or 4th lever to distribute the load for easier compression and better balance of the spring as it moves?

I’d rather not pay a guy $95 just to swap out spring. Thanks All,

Tundratom

 

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Are you handy? 

Make your own out of some threaded rod and some plates of steel or aluminum.

 

Much better than most out there and a lot safer.

 

 

 

 

 

1E7F486D-9DD9-4DE1-BE89-E2757980472D.jpeg

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7 hours ago, Tundratom said:

I see mixed reviews with Tusk removal tool. I have to compress a 95N mm coil spring.  Very stiff spring I am told.
1) Will I be able to generate energy to change out without injury? 
2) Would it be safer to add a 3rd or 4th lever to distribute the load for easier compression and better balance of the spring as it moves?

I’d rather not pay a guy $95 just to swap out spring. Thanks All,

Tundratom

 

I read those reviews and figured I'd give the Tusk compressors a shot. Absolute waste of money, they barely handled the weak oem spring and deformed badly when I got the 90NM spring about half compressed.  I ended up with 3 ratchet straps and a floor jack, which I don't really recommend, but it was safer than the Tusk ones.  I'd build a rig similar to what @williestreet did, get  a commercial grade compressor or take it to a shop.  

 

"Men do not quit playing because they grow old, they grow old because they quit playing" Oliver Wendell Holmes - Mods - HDB handguards, Camel-ADV Gut guard, 1 finger clutch, The Fix pedal & Rally pipe, RR side/tail rack, RR 90nm spring & Headlight guard, Rally seat, OEM heated grips- stablemate Beta 520RS

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2 hours ago, williestreet said:

Are you handy? 

Make your own out of some threaded rod and some plates of steel or aluminum.

 

Much better than most out there and a lot safer.

 

 

 

 

 

1E7F486D-9DD9-4DE1-BE89-E2757980472D.jpeg

Thanks for the photo. What size hole did you have to drill for the end of the cartridge?  

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35 minutes ago, AZJW said:

I read those reviews and figured I'd give the Tusk compressors a shot. Absolute waste of money, they barely handled the weak oem spring and deformed badly when I got the 90NM spring about half compressed.  I ended up with 3 ratchet straps and a floor jack, which I don't really recommend, but it was safer than the Tusk ones.  I'd build a rig similar to what @williestreet did, get  a commercial grade compressor or take it to a shop.  

Thanks for feedback on Tusk product. I think I am going to try and rig one like Williestreet did. 

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I just returned my Tusk compressor after attempting to use it on a 90kg spring.  It removed the stock one fine, but was NOTHING close enough to get the 90kg spring compressed.  We ended up using a floor jack with zero complications.  The TUSK tool seemed much sketchier.  The floor jack trick was what we needed.

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6 hours ago, Tundratom said:

Thanks for the photo. What size hole did you have to drill for the end of the cartridge?  

I didn't have a hole saw the proper size, so I drilled a series of small holes around the diameter and used a jig saw to make the hole.

I don't remember the size right now, but will measure and post the size later. Should be around 65mm approx.

 

The bottle jack needs to be adapted to support the shock.   You need to be sure the shock can't kick out.  Some have a U- shaped bracket with holes you slip a bolt into to hold the shock.  I opted to have a cup style support.  I just sit the shock into it and don't need to worry about it kicking out while under pressure. Here a re a few pics, but search the net and you will see lots of other examples of nice simple spring compressors. 

Most of the small bottle jacks have a threaded end on the ram that can be removed and adapted.  

 

Take a bit of time to measure and locate the jack so it is perfectly centered  under the center of the hole and then bolt the jack to the bottom plate so it can't move.  

 

I have had this for years and just make a different top plate for any shock I need to work on if the diameter is different.

Our spring is pretty soft at 80-95N (450-550lbs/inch). My last bike had a 180N (1000lbs/inch) and this worked just as easy on it.  Spend a bit of time and this will last forever and be a lot safer than the sketchy methods you see posted all the time.

 

shock-absorber-spring-compressor-buzzett

A practical hydraulically-operated shock absorber spring compressor, produced by BUZZETTI. This tool enables a quick and easy service of your shock a…

 

 

FE66EE19-A718-424F-B940-718391248F4D.jpeg

EE117CE5-2D42-48EB-8ADA-2F1DCF9881A7.jpeg

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The hole in my plate is not perfect, but it looks like pretty close to 73-74mm diameter.

The products I posted above are really nice units, but they also have really nice prices to go with them.

 

I am not a fan of buying something that I feel can be made at home.  Mine might not be pretty, but it works very well, is safe, and was inexpensive to build.

 

Here is a link to a short clip of how it works. 

 

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