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Compact Jumper Cables


thepointchris

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In the past we always took some cable jumpers on our trips. But since a few years we have a powerbank with start cables. Smaller in volume and also handy as extra power source for charging batteries for camera, phone. And the powerbank is powerful enough to start an 2 l mercerdes car with a dead battery. We tried.

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Also have the powerbank startbooster.

I mostly do big trips solo so no use for cables without a second bike.

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the new power bank jumper works wonder.

 

They also allow solo rider to restart their bike if anything fails.

 

Jumper cables are good, but you do need a 2nd powersource of any sort

Edit: I have NOCO G50 in case you are wondering.

Edited by TimmyTheHog
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the answer seems obvious..thanks guys, for weighing in. and yes, often solo, so!

 

 

 

 

 

 

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I have a power bank and a company sells an adapter where you can jump it by a sae plug. It packs a lot smaller without the clamps.

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1 hour ago, S.Ga.Rider said:

I have a power bank and a company sells an adapter where you can jump it by a sae plug. It packs a lot smaller without the clamps.

Which power bank do you use? I have a SAE pigtail tied to the battery for compressor, but that has a fuse inline. I like the smaller SAE, not sure which way to go?

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6 minutes ago, thepointchris said:

Which power bank do you use? I have a SAE pigtail tied to the battery for compressor, but that has a fuse inline. I like the smaller SAE, not sure which way to go?

One from amazon. Triple clamp sells the adapter. And you can get the 10ga saw connecter on Amazon fairly cheap. 

Edited by S.Ga.Rider
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26 minutes ago, thepointchris said:

Which power bank do you use? I have a SAE pigtail tied to the battery for compressor, but that has a fuse inline. I like the smaller SAE, not sure which way to go?

You didn't ask me 🙂 but I carry the Tusk brand because for life safety products I go with name brands. 

Tusk Mini Portable Power and Jump Starter

Part# 1927390001

 
 

Our Price: $54.99

MSRP: $89.99 - You save $35.00 (39% off)

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Why is this necessary?  Can't you push start it?  Also there is the antigravity battery that won't let itself die.  I always try to solve problems in ways other than carrying more stuff.  The antigravity lets me bring different stuff not more stuff.  I have push started my T7 more times than I'd like to admit before I got the AG battery, since I've had it I quit wiring grip heaters directly to the battery and haven't needed it.

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3 hours ago, mpb1 said:

Why is this necessary?  Can't you push start it?  Also there is the antigravity battery that won't let itself die.  I always try to solve problems in ways other than carrying more stuff.  The antigravity lets me bring different stuff not more stuff.  I have push started my T7 more times than I'd like to admit before I got the AG battery, since I've had it I quit wiring grip heaters directly to the battery and haven't needed it.

I was reading your post and thinking "why????" until your grip heaters - oops.  I have a Thunderbox that comes off the battery AFTER the bike starts. I have just about everything wired to it.

Here is my review if you haven't heard of it. It listens for the engine to start by monitoring the battery voltage and then sends juice to your accessories. I love it.

healtech-electronics-thunderbox-review-m

HealTech Electronics ThunderBox Review: A magic box for the DIY home mechanic who wants to add accessories the a motorcycle electrical system.

 

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51 minutes ago, NeilW said:

I was reading your post and thinking "why????" until your grip heaters - oops.  I have a Thunderbox that comes off the battery AFTER the bike starts. I have just about everything wired to it.

Here is my review if you haven't heard of it. It listens for the engine to start by monitoring the battery voltage and then sends juice to your accessories. I love it.

healtech-electronics-thunderbox-review-m

HealTech Electronics ThunderBox Review: A magic box for the DIY home mechanic who wants to add accessories the a motorcycle electrical system.

 

That's neat.  I sometimes get off my butt and wire in a relay to switched power like the low fuel light or something, but that's slick.

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2 hours ago, mpb1 said:

That's neat.  I sometimes get off my butt and wire in a relay to switched power like the low fuel light or something, but that's slick.

Yes it is. And so easy to wire in. Especially  for the electrical challenged like me. 

Edited by NeilW
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4 hours ago, NeilW said:

I was reading your post and thinking "why????" until your grip heaters - oops.  I have a Thunderbox that comes off the battery AFTER the bike starts. I have just about everything wired to it.

Here is my review if you haven't heard of it. It listens for the engine to start by monitoring the battery voltage and then sends juice to your accessories. I love it.

It's basically a relais with a 16A fuse  and wago connectors? You would still need to put inline fuses on each connected device. Or am I missing something?

You could make that yourself for under 10EUR.

 

Personally I prefer solutions that have built-in separate fuses and outputs for each connected device.

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7 hours ago, mpb1 said:

Can't you push start it?

Easy answer.... try it.
And don't forget to try it also offroad, preferably in a technical or muddy section because something happens always in the worst places.

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5 hours ago, Ray Ride4life said:

Easy answer.... try it.
And don't forget to try it also offroad, preferably in a technical or muddy section because something happens always in the worst places.

That's a good point.  

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13 hours ago, mpb1 said:

I have push started my T7 more times than I'd like to admit

Good to know that a fuel injected bike can be push started, I had always wondered about that (T7 is my first F/I Bike).

I should try it myself, it has been many years since I had to push start a bike.

In my past, dead/weak batteries showed up when the bike was cold, like first thing in the morning, not on the trail after being ridden.

 

EDIT: Just went out and tried push starting my bike...success!!. Of course that is with a good battery and the fuel pump working. Has anyone push started a T7 with a completely dead battery?

Edited by Hibobb

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A fuel pump and ecu takes a lot less power to run than a starter.

 

I've never had a car with a carb, and I've push started a lot of them too. (I'm 37 and I've had a lot of cars, no 19-year-old jokes)

 

I'm starting to think I'm the only person who leaves crap on and kind of kills a battery.

 

In the KTM injected 2-stroke world you can wire a capacitor in that will let you push start a fuel-pump/oil-pump/ecu bike with no battery at all.

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8 hours ago, duibhceK said:

It's basically a relais with a 16A fuse  and wago connectors? You would still need to put inline fuses on each connected device. Or am I missing something?

You could make that yourself for under 10EUR.

 

Personally I prefer solutions that have built-in separate fuses and outputs for each connected device.

Yup you are missing something. Yes there is only one fuse to the unit and then all other electrical is wired to it. The difference is that it doesn’t power ON any of the aux electrical devices until after you start the bike. It monitors the battery for the start sequence, waits about 5 seconds and then sends power to the connected devices. When you shut off the engine the device cuts the power to the aux devices. 
if you are good are switches and relays then you don’t need this thing. If you look at a relay and think “”wow” too complicated for me, hen this Thunderbox is for you. No relays to worry about straight connections for a safe “keyed” AUX power source 

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17 hours ago, NeilW said:

Yup you are missing something. Yes there is only one fuse to the unit and then all other electrical is wired to it. The difference is that it doesn’t power ON any of the aux electrical devices until after you start the bike. It monitors the battery for the start sequence, waits about 5 seconds and then sends power to the connected devices. When you shut off the engine the device cuts the power to the aux devices.

Thanks for clarifying! I'm sure some people will have use cases where they prefer to only have power with the engine running, but for anything I wire up having power as soon as the key is turned is more convenient.

 

Personally I would still prefer to make my own cheap solution or go for something like the Eastern Beaver PC-8. Mainly because it has the fuse holders built-in, has switched and unswitched circuits and turns on with the key, not the engine.

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I picked up the Nexpow 2000 Amp jump start that @NeilW posted above.  Be advised the dimensions quoted are just for the battery itself, accessories need additional room.  The nice foam lined case it came with won't work in my case, but I found the entire setup fits neatly under my OEM Tall Rally seat.  Hope it isn't needed,  but push starting bikes over 250 lbs is on my must miss list!

 

20221025_122819.jpg.81372f9d299ba6c3e9c3476aede2c43e.jpg20221025_123146.jpg.2e981dde5fec50853f2aad20c9983fbc.jpg

 

"Men do not quit playing because they grow old, they grow old because they quit playing" Oliver Wendell Holmes - Mods - HDB handguards, Camel-ADV Gut guard, 1 finger clutch, The Fix pedal & Rally pipe, RR side/tail rack, RR 90nm spring & Headlight guard, Rally seat, OEM heated grips- stablemate Beta 520RS

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1 hour ago, AZJW said:

I picked up the Nexpow 2000 Amp jump start that @NeilW posted above.  Be advised the dimensions quoted are just for the battery itself, accessories need additional room.  The nice foam lined case it came with won't work in my case, but I found the entire setup fits neatly under my OEM Tall Rally seat.  Hope it isn't needed,  but push starting bikes over 250 lbs is on my must miss list!

 

20221025_122819.jpg.81372f9d299ba6c3e9c3476aede2c43e.jpg20221025_123146.jpg.2e981dde5fec50853f2aad20c9983fbc.jpg

Remember to check the battery charge state every few months. 

 

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