Any special tips for lubing linkage?

[roygilbo]

In my basement with a limited selection of tools and a single motorcycle lift.  Planning to first take off the back wheel.  

Anything I need to be aware of?  Anything under tension?  Want to lube up the linkage as many have said on here that it comes "dry" from the factory.

What lubricant are you using?  Bearing grease?  Lithium grease? 

All advice is greatly appreciated.

[Ray Ride4life]

I use normal bearing grease, the so called waterproof stuff is a nice sails pitch to make it more expensive.
Before you all start with that's not true, i work with grease all my life and i never managed to get it off my hands with just water. Even with soap it's not easy.
What i did when i greased my bearings is drill a hole for a grease nippel on top at a point where i can reach with a grease pump and 2 1,5mm holes at the bottom so the air can escape to get the space all filled with grease and you can see when that is the case.

[AZJW]

The Yamaha Service Manual calls for Lithium Soap based grease.  I've researched extensively and found most agree that Lithium grease satisfies that requirement.  Nothing is " under tension " other than torqued bolts,  but you might have a zip tie handy to hang the brake caliper from.  Starting on page 4-75, the Service Manual details servicing the swing arm and related components.   The link is below.

 

[TeabagInsurance]

Nothing especially useful to add aside from stating that I have average capabilities with tools and I considered it a very easy job. Nothing under tension. I just used regular bearing grease. Have plenty of rags/paper towels handy. My linkage and rear axle were quite dry when I did mine at around 4,000kms.

[williestreet]

Just use regular bearing or chassis grease and you will be fine.

I would take this opportunity to do the swingarm pivot bearings as well.  It will only add another hour or so to get these done properly.

 

 

 

 

 

[roygilbo]

4 hours ago, AZJW said:

The Yamaha Service Manual calls for Lithium Soap based grease.  I've researched extensively and found most agree that Lithium grease satisfies that requirement.  Nothing is " under tension " other than torqued bolts,  but you might have a zip tie handy to hang the brake caliper from.  Starting on page 4-75, the Service Manual details servicing the swing arm and related components.   The link is below.

 

All great responses.  Thank you.  In particular, they say you need to put new oil seals on all the bearings… are you all just reusing what is there? 

[AZJW]

27 minutes ago, roygilbo said:

All great responses.  Thank you.  In particular, they say you need to put new oil seals on all the bearings… are you all just reusing what is there? 

My response to that is the same as for steering head bearings, tires, etc., it depends on the condition.   If the seals are cracked, torn or showing wear, then yes. If they look serviceable thru the next inspection interval, leave them be, but if in doubt, replace them. 

[roygilbo]

4 hours ago, roygilbo said:

All great responses.  Thank you.  In particular, they say you need to put new oil seals on all the bearings… are you all just reusing what is there? 

The bearings had grease and the sleeves were nice and shiny on the outside, but the inside this is what the bolts looked like.  So half full, half empty results.  

[Tenerider]

5 hours ago, Hogan said:

 

Washing away the grease is not the issue.

The grease, or more specifically the thickener used in regular grease absorbs water over time which breaks it down, reduces lubricity and causes corrosion.

Having said that you do not technically need water proof grease on sealed bearings for obvious reasons.

It's primarily used in non sealed situations in high exposure situations, primarily marine use. Which is why it's often called "Marine Grease"

However you can use it in most low pressure bearings, there's no reason you cant.But the best it will do is protect the bearing if/when the seal fails and water gets in. It could be the difference between replacing a bearing, or having to  replace a component because a bearing failed and you didn't realise etc.

 

I find it's useful for things like side stands, centre stands, levers etc. It lasts a lot longer than regular greases or lubricating oils. I used to use silicon sprays for these things but it just washes away on the first rainy day.

I also used to use it on leaf springs, and the spring bushes in 4wds.

 

 

 

Thanks for the hints on marine grease. I once bought it accidentally (but relatively cheap) for some RC applications, and found it to be very sticky (it is actually lithium complex grease, whatever that means ). So I avoided it on the linkage back then, but good to know that I can just use it the next time.

[Alan M]

8 hours ago, Hogan said:

 

Washing away the grease is not the issue.

The grease, or more specifically the thickener used in regular grease absorbs water over time which breaks it down, reduces lubricity and causes corrosion.

Having said that you do not technically need water proof grease on sealed bearings for obvious reasons.

It's primarily used in non sealed situations in high exposure situations, primarily marine use. Which is why it's often called "Marine Grease"

However you can use it in most low pressure bearings, there's no reason you cant.But the best it will do is protect the bearing if/when the seal fails and water gets in. It could be the difference between replacing a bearing, or having to  replace a component because a bearing failed and you didn't realise etc.

 

I find it's useful for things like side stands, centre stands, levers etc. It lasts a lot longer than regular greases or lubricating oils. I used to use silicon sprays for these things but it just washes away on the first rainy day.

I also used to use it on leaf springs, and the spring bushes in 4wds.

 

 

 

Agreed, I use Bel Ray waterproof grease on the T7 and my enduro bikes and not had an issue with linkages, etc and the enduro spends its life submerged in bog .