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Canister removal . Euro 5


razz007

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Hello everyone , so what I did was un -clip the pipes from the can and pull the can out . Cut the pipe that comes from the T and bung with bolt as dowel has hid up . Pulled the pipes from the solenoid and used the longest one to run from valve and down beside sprocket . Put two pieces of pipe on solenoid and block with bolt . Sorted . Thanks for the awesome info on here FF2FF10E-B018-4A12-B6F0-E803EAF10D47.jpeg.57f832c0c155ce330286c91b17a6bddd.jpeg13862238-F159-4796-9218-CE1CE2DD8E81.jpeg.9c7a3fbb4e3c1df8fbaa2e1481c581be.jpeg8EF11662-89B1-4987-AAFC-1640CBD83C80.jpeg.33ad8ace0385572efb56720598899645.jpeg

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Why? Bike starts and runs fine with it.  Saves no weight. Seems more like an “I don’t like government intrusion in my life” protest action. 

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Reading on here about hot start issues , and if this summer is like the last , I don’t fancy having that issue . It’s very easy to put back if I felt the need . And the hole reminds of my Gen 3 MT09 

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@Black99S @DanDoesStunts Here's some background on the issue some owners have had.

 

 

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"Men do not quit playing because they grow old, they grow old because they quit playing" Oliver Wendell Holmes - Mods - HDB handguards, Camel-ADV Gut guard, 1 finger clutch, The Fix pedal & Rally pipe, RR side/tail rack, RR 90nm spring & Headlight guard, Rally seat, OEM heated grips- stablemate Beta 520RS

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I had hot start issues with mine. Removed the canister a year ago and haven't had one since. 

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