Eco mode

[RobR]

When I got the bike, I'd rode it pretty easy most of the time and would often get the "Eco Mode" indicator on the dash.  Took the bike for the 6K mile service and I haven't see it since - that was 7000 miles ago.  Anyone else experience a similar issue?  I swear my fuel burn is more too.  And yes, I have tried adjusting my right wrist.

[Ray Ride4life]

I try to look at it tomorrow but at some point i stopped looking at it.
Maybe because i get more comfortable offroad and have too much fun

[williestreet]

Any chance your clutch switch is disconnected or jumped together

I do not have first hand experience, but I have read that a bypassed clutch switch will force the bike to run in the neutral fuel map.  This will affect your mileage and it also apparently disables the eco mode.

 

Some people have installed aftermarket levers without the stock clutch switch function and they connected the 2 wires together to make them work.   They discovered this result after the install. 

 

[Ray Ride4life]

I just checked it and i stll have it.

I think i had an issue with the clutch switch because at some point he wouldn't start with engaged clutch when in gear and the fuel consumption was higher than normal.

After some tinkering with the switch it looks like the fuel consumption is back to normal but i have to look deeper into it because a moved switch would not react as a disabled one.

[RobR]

Mystery solved thanks to @williestreet.   The pin on the clutch switch is sheared off, so the ECU thinks the clutch is in all the time.  New switch on order.

[Hibobb]

@williestreet Well done! Huge respect for you!

[RobR]

My biggest gripe with Yamaha is the number of soft aluminum hardware on their bikes that are thread-locked to infinity and beyond.  

 

I started to remove the broken switch, using a high-quality JIS screwdriver and it stripped.  Oh well, that's why I have extractor bits.  Drilled it, then hit it with the extractor bit and the head of the screw sheared off. 

 

Plan B, dremel the plastic switch body off, then use vise-gripes to back out the screw.  Once the housing was removed, you could see a bright blue ring of lock-tite around the screw body.  Within a 1/4 of a turn with the vise-grips, the screw sheared off at the base going into the perch.    Don't really feel like fighting this anymore, so I'm going to use some 3M tape to attach the new switch.

[AZJW]

@RobR And here I thought I was the only one who had "simple" fixes go south like this.  Necessity is the mother of invention and I'm sure you'll come up with something, so please post up what you figure out.

[winddown]

I wonder (being a China skeptic by experience) if the failure of some switches to engage and the breaking of the one above could be related to installing cheap chinese levers?  I changed my levers 1500km ago to Womet ones and no dramas with the clutch switch.  Aside from the cheap addon windscreen and a set of roo whistles I have only fitted reputable brand name accessories and upgrades.

 

This vid is enlightening, it's about a failure in a brake lever  2:20 if you want to skip the intro stuff

 

 

https://www.hayabusa.org/forum/threads/china-levers-vs-oem-something-to-think-about.188391/page-3

Edited March 30, 2023 by winddown

[RobR]

Could be - I installed a set of cheap MZS shorties (like the ones in the video) but I'm not sure when the switch broke - it's been at least 6000 miles since I have seen the ECO light.  I'm swapping out the cheap ones for a set of ASV's.

Edited March 31, 2023 by RobR

[RobR]

Update, drilled out the 3mm screw, filled the hole with JB Weld.  When it was dry, drilled and tapped a new hole.   I also put a piece of double sided 3m body tape on the bottom of the new switch, but I don't think it's going anywhere, even if the threads in the JB Weld fail.

 

Also, ASV levers are MUCH nicer and better fit than the cheap MZS ones from Amazon.

Edited April 2, 2023 by RobR