Lower links - KoubaLink vs. AltRider

[Lunch]

KoubaLink says this link lowers 1.5” (38mm) and the AltRider says theirs lowers 30mm at the last hole, but they’re exactly the same length? Anyone know which one is accurate?

[Wintersdark]

An aside but something you should consider: IIRC @Camel ADV said the maximum you can drop via lowering links is 20mm before you can have the tire impacting the tail section when fully compressed.  

 

If you never bottom out the rear I suppose that doesn't matter, but with a 30 or 38mm drop that's a fair bit of smash if you do.

[Lunch]

35 minutes ago, Wintersdark said:

An aside but something you should consider: IIRC @Camel ADV said the maximum you can drop via lowering links is 20mm before you can have the tire impacting the tail section when fully compressed.  

 

If you never bottom out the rear I suppose that doesn't matter, but with a 30 or 38mm drop that's a fair bit of smash if you do.

 

I had heard that, but with a 28" inseam I need as much as I can get. With the way I ride I don't think I need to worry about bottoming out. I am slower than molasses in January. 

 

Really just wondering why there's a discrepancy with the links. A claimed 1/4" difference between the two is not unsubstantial and it seems like someone is bending the truth...

Edited March 30, 2023 by Lunch

[Wintersdark]

7 minutes ago, Lunch said:

 

I had heard that, but with a 28" inseam I need as much as I can get. With the way I ride I don't think I need to worry about bottoming out. I am slower than molasses in January. 

 

Really just wondering why there's a discrepancy with the links. A claimed 1/4" difference between the two is not unsubstantial and it seems like someone is bending the truth...

For sure, and sadly I can't help with that, just wanted to make sure you're aware as many sellers don't warn people about the potential issues.

[Zero600]

2 hours ago, Lunch said:

KoubaLink says this link lowers 1.5” (38mm) and the AltRider says theirs lowers 30mm at the last hole, but they’re exactly the same length? Anyone know which one is accurate?

Have you measured the hole-to-hole distance with good calipers or such?  I see that they look similar, but a small difference in the dimensions could explain the difference in drop.   Perhaps both companies are correct in their specs.

[Lunch]

4 minutes ago, Zero600 said:

Have you measured the hole-to-hole distance with good calipers or such?  I see that they look similar, but a small difference in the dimensions could explain the difference in drop.   Perhaps both companies are correct in their specs.

 

It's hard to tell in the photo since they have different thicknesses, but when set on top of each other the holes are aligned flush. Measured just now out of curiosity and they both measure exactly 60mm between the centers of each hole.

Edited March 30, 2023 by Lunch

[TexasT700]

I know this is not exactly on topic, but I would consider the changes in suspension geometry the lower links will cause. I had the Kouba links on mine for a pretty good while, but later figured out I needed a much stronger spring to compensate for the change in leverage caused by lowering link. I accepted that the bike, for me at 6-2, 32 inch inseam, was simply too much of a reach to ground. I have sold the T7 and moved on to a bike that is lower to the ground.  My weight is about 225 plus luggage rack, center stand, topcase, etc., and it took a 95nm spring to get decent rider sag without a lot of preload. If you are lighter, maybe this is not a big issue. I know a lot of folks use the lowering links, just messed up suspension for me. Good luck!

[TexasT700]

PS The Kouba links I refer to were only 1" drop, so the 1.5" drop could affect your sag numbers even more.

[Lunch]

On 3/30/2023 at 5:14 PM, TexasT700 said:

I know this is not exactly on topic, but I would consider the changes in suspension geometry the lower links will cause. I had the Kouba links on mine for a pretty good while, but later figured out I needed a much stronger spring to compensate for the change in leverage caused by lowering link. I accepted that the bike, for me at 6-2, 32 inch inseam, was simply too much of a reach to ground. I have sold the T7 and moved on to a bike that is lower to the ground.  My weight is about 225 plus luggage rack, center stand, topcase, etc., and it took a 95nm spring to get decent rider sag without a lot of preload. If you are lighter, maybe this is not a big issue. I know a lot of folks use the lowering links, just messed up suspension for me. Good luck!

 

I've received ample advice from people regarding not lowering the bike, but sadly it is just a necessity for me. I don't plan on doing any aggressive off-roading, only fire roads and stuff, so lowering the rear and adjusting the front forks to compensate for the change should be fine in my case. 

 

It isn't really a big deal since there's nothing I can do about it, but I am still curious about the lower links being the same size and claiming different lowering amounts. I'd expect them both to lower the bike the same amount so I wonder where the discrepancy is stemming from. Not sure which one I want to keep at the moment.

 

Anyways thanks for the feedback I will look into getting a stiffer rear spring if I can't get good sag.

Edited April 2, 2023 by Lunch

[random1781]

On 4/2/2023 at 12:27 PM, Lunch said:

 

I've received ample advice from people regarding not lowering the bike, but sadly it is just a necessity for me. I don't plan on doing any aggressive off-roading, only fire roads and stuff, so lowering the rear and adjusting the front forks to compensate for the change should be fine in my case. 

 

It isn't really a big deal since there's nothing I can do about it, but I am still curious about the lower links being the same size and claiming different lowering amounts. I'd expect them both to lower the bike the same amount so I wonder where the discrepancy is stemming from. Not sure which one I want to keep at the moment.

 

Anyways thanks for the feedback I will look into getting a stiffer rear spring if I can't get good sag.

I'm really interested in this also. I'm curious where the OEM links fall in comparison to the Altrider links. If it was me, I'd install the Koubalink. They look stronger and won't have that outward bulge if you're using the furthest out setting, plus this is Koubalink's only product. But I'm sure either will work.

[Lunch]

13 hours ago, random1781 said:

I'm really interested in this also. I'm curious where the OEM links fall in comparison to the Altrider links. If it was me, I'd install the Koubalink. They look stronger and won't have that outward bulge if you're using the furthest out setting, plus this is Koubalink's only product. But I'm sure either will work.

 I think with the AltRider ones when you use them on the -30mm setting you flip them upside down so the bulge is on top. I had the same thoughts about the KoubaLinks as well though, so I returned the AltRiders. Kinda annoyed that the Kouba ones cost $40 more and they claim they drop a larger distance when they don't really, but there's not much to be done about it. Anyways, now I just need to install them and lower the front a bit. 

Edited April 4, 2023 by Lunch

[random1781]

On 4/4/2023 at 8:49 AM, Lunch said:

 I think with the AltRider ones when you use them on the -30mm setting you flip them upside down so the bulge is on top. I had the same thoughts about the KoubaLinks as well though, so I returned the AltRiders. Kinda annoyed that the Kouba ones cost $40 more and they claim they drop a larger distance when they don't really, but there's not much to be done about it. Anyways, now I just need to install them and lower the front a bit. 

Do you know it's the Koubalinks that are labeled incorrectly? My gut would be that it's the Altrider ones that are wrong.

[Lunch]

On 4/5/2023 at 7:27 PM, random1781 said:

Do you know it's the Koubalinks that are labeled incorrectly? My gut would be that it's the Altrider ones that are wrong.

I'm not sure which one is the incorrect one and I don't think I have the patience to install both and then measure the wheel-to-fender distance. It will forever be a mystery!

[IAbeem]

I'm considering trying lowering links. I could easily laser out different lengths from 8g 304 at the shop like some of the basic cheaper ones. The Koubalinks look a lot thicker with a counter bore at the holes and one link has a flat on both sides at the counter bore. What's going on with these? Is the extra machining with a counter bore and flat helpful or needed? Is a basic laser cut link as good?

Edited April 8, 2023 by IAbeem

[Lunch]

2 hours ago, IAbeem said:

I'm considering trying lowering links. I could easily laser out different lengths from 8g 304 at the shop like some of the basic cheaper ones. The Koubalinks look a lot thicker with a counter bore at the holes and one link has a flat on both sides at the counter bore. What's going on with these? Is the extra machining with a counter bore and flat helpful or needed? Is a basic laser cut link as good?

 

I think they are aluminum which is why they have more thickness to them. The other brands are steel as far as I know. The flat part on the right side link was helpful because it kept the bolt from spinning as I tightened the nut.

 

One thing I found odd was since that flat part is on the right side the bolt had to be flipped around and inserted through from the right side. The stock links had the bolt inserted through on the left side. Don't think it really matters, but it was kind of annoying since I only realized after putting the bolts in through the wrong side and had to pull them out again. 

Edited April 8, 2023 by Lunch