DOM Steel tube VS Stainless Crash Bars

[SpartanNoFear-1]

I am very new to this. I'm 54 and just bought a 2023 Tenere. Going crazy on what crash bars to get. I read your posts, but I didn't see anything posted about crash bars made of DOM Steel (Drawn over Mandrel). From what I understand, DOM is used in roll cages and stuff like that. Would this make it too strong though?

 

Any help or thoughts would be greatly appreciated!

[sracer]

DOM is indeed used for roll cages..having built one, it's expensive compared to welded tube. I understood that on impact DOM would not split as welded would potentially split on the weld. Doubt any crash bars are DOM

[Tenerider]

Crash bars can be regarded as sacrificial parts. Their job is to protect engine and frame, and perhaps fairings.

So they should distribute energy from impacts, or if need be absorb energy. Thus, at some point they will (and should) bend or even break. If they where super sturdy, they would eventually transfer too much force to frame parts.

[SpartanNoFear-1]

8 hours ago, sracer said:

DOM is indeed used for roll cages..having built one, it's expensive compared to welded tube. I understood that on impact DOM would not split as welded would potentially split on the weld. Doubt any crash bars are DOM

I found two so far, one is Happy Trails and the other is the (black) SRC. I spoke with the guy yesterday. It's confusing for me because we didn't have this stuff back in the 80's LOL

[SpartanNoFear-1]

7 hours ago, Tenerider said:

Crash bars can be regarded as sacrificial parts. Their job is to protect engine and frame, and perhaps fairings.

So they should distribute energy from impacts, or if need be absorb energy. Thus, at some point they will (and should) bend or even break. If they where super sturdy, they would eventually transfer too much force to frame parts.

That's exactly what I'm worried bout and was wondering if DOM steel would be too strong for crash bars, I bet you're right. If the bars don't give, then wear it mounts has to and that could be bad news. 

[Windblown]

1 hour ago, SpartanNoFear-1 said:

That's exactly what I'm worried bout and was wondering if DOM steel would be too strong for crash bars, I bet you're right. If the bars don't give, then wear it mounts has to and that could be bad news. 

 

To some degree that depends on how well the crash bar distributes the impact forces to the bike and where it mounts. But yes, at some level of force something is going to give. Better for that to be something other than the frame or an engine mounting point. 

 

Lacking a degree in mechanical engineering I just take a look at how stuff mounts and decide if I think it will do the job I want with only years of breaking stuff and seeing stuff broken to guide me.  Works out ok most of the time... LOL.

 

[SpartanNoFear-1]

1 hour ago, Windblown said:

 

To some degree that depends on how well the crash bar distributes the impact forces to the bike and where it mounts. But yes, at some level of force something is going to give. Better for that to be something other than the frame or an engine mounting point. 

 

Lacking a degree in mechanical engineering I just take a look at how stuff mounts and decide if I think it will do the job I want with only years of breaking stuff and seeing stuff broken to guide me.  Works out ok most of the time... LOL.

 

That's funny because that's how I try looking at things too, but I'm trying to actually do research this time because crash bars are expensive and protect a even more expensive product so if there's a "BEST" set of crash bars out there, that's what I want. I honestly didn't think it would be this difficult to actually narrow it down. I'm probably over thinking it, but nothing wrong with wanting the best. 
 

May I asked, what did you purchase?

 

Thank you so much!

[SpartanNoFear-1]

1 hour ago, Windblown said:

 

To some degree that depends on how well the crash bar distributes the impact forces to the bike and where it mounts. But yes, at some level of force something is going to give. Better for that to be something other than the frame or an engine mounting point. 

 

Lacking a degree in mechanical engineering I just take a look at how stuff mounts and decide if I think it will do the job I want with only years of breaking stuff and seeing stuff broken to guide me.  Works out ok most of the time... LOL.

 

FYI

 

Jason says: "The DOM tube is more costly than the standard industry "hot roll electric weld" tube (HREW) but we find that with motorcycles vibrating the way they do, the DOM weld zone withstands years of use and holds up in a crash. The tensile strength of DOM tube is almost double of that in HREW tube."
 
We use 1X.083 DOM

 

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[Canzvt]

With all due respect, I do think you are over thinking the material side of your evaluation. A round tube is a round tube in terms of tensile strength (ie: equal) if it is made from the same material (regardless of method) assuming the same wall thickness. Crush/burst strength will be different as DOM is drawn from billet, whereby ERW (electric resistance welded) or HREW is made from flat material and rolled and does indeed have a weld zone.

The most critical design decision is how/where the bars are mounted with respect to how they distribute any crash load. I'm running the factory Yamaha ones, and many here don't like them for various reasons. When I bought my bike in Canada (2020 as a '21 model), they were the only ones available. That bike has been on its side almost as much as on the wheels and they haven't moved, nor bent nor damaged that bike in any way I can observe. Pretty dented up, and scratched, but still doing their job 21,000kms later.

[Windblown]

29 minutes ago, SpartanNoFear-1 said:

That's funny because that's how I try looking at things too, but I'm trying to actually do research this time because crash bars are expensive and protect a even more expensive product so if there's a "BEST" set of crash bars out there, that's what I want. I honestly didn't think it would be this difficult to actually narrow it down. I'm probably over thinking it, but nothing wrong with wanting the best. 
 

May I asked, what did you purchase?

 

Thank you so much!

 

I went with  Hepco & Becker Engine Guards only (No upper bars) as I was specifically looking for engine protection only.

 

The reason I went with them is they appear to offer about the best engine protection of what is out there for the engine and my primary interest in guards is to help prevent catastrophic failures like punching a hole in the side of an engine case or water pump housing.  I did the same thing with a Tiger 800 XC I owned  (Engine bars only) and dropped it countless times and never wished for upper bars, but was mighty glad I had lower ones based on the damage they absorbed over the years. 

[SpartanNoFear-1]

40 minutes ago, Canzvt said:

With all due respect, I do think you are over thinking the material side of your evaluation. A round tube is a round tube in terms of tensile strength (ie: equal) if it is made from the same material (regardless of method) assuming the same wall thickness. Crush/burst strength will be different as DOM is drawn from billet, whereby ERW (electric resistance welded) or HREW is made from flat material and rolled and does indeed have a weld zone.

The most critical design decision is how/where the bars are mounted with respect to how they distribute any crash load. I'm running the factory Yamaha ones, and many here don't like them for various reasons. When I bought my bike in Canada (2020 as a '21 model), they were the only ones available. That bike has been on its side almost as much as on the wheels and they haven't moved, nor bent nor damaged that bike in any way I can observe. Pretty dented up, and scratched, but still doing their job 21,000kms later.

I pretty much know you're correct bout over thinking it, but it's like I just can't stop myself and it's kind of irritating too. I mean, I'm gonna flop the bike over and have damage done before I decide what crash bars to buy, LOL! Ya I heard bad things bout your bars, but now you say they work great so who knows? Is it true (if you know) that the OEM bars are DOM? I've heard that's what they are. Like all of us, I bust my ass for the money I make and this stuff isn't cheap, neither was the Tenere so I'm gonna look a bit more and finally make some kind of educated decision with what I researched and from all you guys on this forum. I can't tell you how much I appreciate all your feedback, it's truly helpful!

 

Thank you guys so much!!

[SpartanNoFear-1]

49 minutes ago, Windblown said:

 

I went with  Hepco & Becker Engine Guards only (No upper bars) as I was specifically looking for engine protection only.

 

The reason I went with them is they appear to offer about the best engine protection of what is out there for the engine and my primary interest in guards is to help prevent catastrophic failures like punching a hole in the side of an engine case or water pump housing.  I did the same thing with a Tiger 800 XC I owned  (Engine bars only) and dropped it countless times and never wished for upper bars, but was mighty glad I had lower ones based on the damage they absorbed over the years. 

I have not yet ruled out those bars. I really like them especially for motor protection. I emailed them Friday to see exactly what grade of steel they make their bars from, hopefully they'll let me know. But the way you explain it, they work great so there's not much more to ask for. 
 

Thank you for your help!!