Stutter or Clunky Acceleration

[john_aero]

Ok while the bike is going well i have had few niggles I need look into. 

 

1 - had fault on injector 2 after fitting RB Evo module, cleared fault and hasn't been on since

 

2 - More consistent issue is at cruising speed when I accelerate the bike stutters or is hesitant for a split second then accelerates. Feels clunky as if the chain was slack

 

only 2 areas I can think of investigating are the RB TPS tie in point and also the syncing the throttle bodies.

 

Anyone else have similar issues

 

Rapid Bike evo module

Canister removed

Camel-Adv Exhaust

 

Rest parts are not engine related

Edited May 10, 2023 by john_aero

[Justin]

@john_aero I had exactly the same issue as you. I contacted RB Evo and got amazing support. We looked at my maps, etc. I had same symptoms as yours. Here is the reply and instructions from RB.

 

¨There is the possibility that it’s not just the fueling that is causing the problem. If it is intermittent and doesn’t always happen then it may be to do with one of the other sensors that the unit has taken control over. I can see from your order last year that you don’t have any other accessories with the module – do you have the Youtune digital display connected or do you have plans to ever fit one? If not, then we can also try disconnecting the module from the crank position sensor and re-connecting the standard connectors together. You won’t lose any functionality from the module – it will only affect the Youtune display if you have one fitted. ¨

 

We do sometimes have some issues on bikes where the signal from the crank position sensor get some minor interference and it can cause intermittent running issues (almost feels like the bike is running out of fuel) and sometimes issues when trying to start the bike when it’s hot.

 

So I did disconnect the RB Crankshaft sensor and everything works great now! no more problems so far!

 

All you’d need to do is disconnect the Rapid Bike harness from the OEM crank sensor, then plug the OEM connectors back together, removing the Rapid Bike connectors. You can then just plug the Rapid Bike connectors together to stop any corrosion getting in to the connectors.

 

It would also be a good idea to reset the auto-adaptivity and turn it off for a short while. That will allow us to test if returning the crank sensor to OEM has made any difference to the feeling of the bike at all. To turn it off, just click the “disable” button in the bottom right corner of the Auto Adaptivity screen after re-setting it so all the values are 0.

 

I hope that helps.

[Tenerider]

Nothing like that at all, but I don't have a power commander, ECU flash or similar thing.

[Windblown]

RR?

 

Do you mean the RapidBike EVO or race tuner?  I don't have one on my T700 but run one on a different bike.  Any more info you can offer about your bike which might help? Other mods, past issues, miles, etc?

[Ray Ride4life]

RR is Rally Raid so i also don't understand.

[Jesse]

Start by removing the aftermarket devices and see if that cures the concerns.

 

 

[john_aero]

2 hours ago, Ray Ride4life said:

RR is Rally Raid so i also don't understand.

 

Sorry for some reason work computer keeps putting RR in for RB (rapid bike) presume it thinks im talking about Rolys Royce cars

 

Its strange on way home from work I rode it in more 5th gear and was ok with odd stutter. Just seems be in 6th and around 100km/h or 60mph it doesnt like hard accel.

 

Maybe 6th is too high for the lower national road speed limit

[Ray Ride4life]

I don't have any problem with the RB, maybe a reset possible and relearn it again?

[Windblown]

1 hour ago, john_aero said:

 

Sorry for some reason work computer keeps putting RR in for RB (rapid bike) presume it thinks im talking about Rolys Royce cars

 

Its strange on way home from work I rode it in more 5th gear and was ok with odd stutter. Just seems be in 6th and around 100km/h or 60mph it doesnt like hard accel.

 

Maybe 6th is too high for the lower national road speed limit

 

How many miles do you have on the bike with the Rapidbike installed?  The map they typically come with is often not all that well dialed in and it can take awhile before the auto-tuning makes the needed corrections, it might even require you to add the corrections to the main map and let it autocorrect some more. They put limits on how much it can change the map without some user intervention to avoid any serious issues. 

[john_aero]

there is about 300km on the unit. however mostly short spins as just using it for going in and out of work.

 

might need a few longer runs

 

however may unplug the unit (leave it on bike) as see if same issue is there with stock settings.

[john_aero]

7 minutes ago, Justin said:

@john_aero I had exactly the same issue as you. I contacted RB Evo and got amazing support. We looked at my maps, etc. I had same symptoms as yours. Here is the reply and instructions from RB.

 

¨There is the possibility that it’s not just the fueling that is causing the problem. If it is intermittent and doesn’t always happen then it may be to do with one of the other sensors that the unit has taken control over. I can see from your order last year that you don’t have any other accessories with the module – do you have the Youtune digital display connected or do you have plans to ever fit one? If not, then we can also try disconnecting the module from the crank position sensor and re-connecting the standard connectors together. You won’t lose any functionality from the module – it will only affect the Youtune display if you have one fitted. ¨

 

We do sometimes have some issues on bikes where the signal from the crank position sensor get some minor interference and it can cause intermittent running issues (almost feels like the bike is running out of fuel) and sometimes issues when trying to start the bike when it’s hot.

 

So I did disconnect the RB Crankshaft sensor and everything works great now! no more problems so far!

 

All you’d need to do is disconnect the Rapid Bike harness from the OEM crank sensor, then plug the OEM connectors back together, removing the Rapid Bike connectors. You can then just plug the Rapid Bike connectors together to stop any corrosion getting in to the connectors.

 

It would also be a good idea to reset the auto-adaptivity and turn it off for a short while. That will allow us to test if returning the crank sensor to OEM has made any difference to the feeling of the bike at all. To turn it off, just click the “disable” button in the bottom right corner of the Auto Adaptivity screen after re-setting it so all the values are 0.

 

I hope that helps.

 

Its nice to hear its not just me,

 

I will do what you listed above and see how it goes. I have contacted them and waiting for their reply.

 

did the say how to "reset the auto adaptability"

[Justin]

@john_aero It does sound like you have exactly the same problem as I had. Mine was very bad sometimes and I even lost one cylinder once and had engine light on, etc. After I disconnected the sensor and disabled Auto Adaptivity, everything came back to normal. Later I put Auto Adaptivity back on to default settings and I did not have any problems since.

Here is the screenshot I just did on how to disable it in order of 1,2 & 3. Hope that helps.

 

[john_aero]

Perfect, ill have read though their site to see how i connect the laptop to the unit and get into the reset.

 

did you re connect the crank position sensor later on or just leave it off?

[Justin]

@john_aero I put crank position sensor back to OEM and RB connectors put simply to each other. If you do not have Youtune module on top of your Rabid Bike, then that Crank position sensor does absolutely nothing according to RB, that is why just put it back to OEM and let RB crank position sensor cables disconnected from the bike just hanging securely by the side. I hope that makes sense haha

[john_aero]

55 minutes ago, Justin said:

@john_aero I put crank position sensor back to OEM and RB connectors put simply to each other. If you do not have Youtune module on top of your Rabid Bike, then that Crank position sensor does absolutely nothing according to RB, that is why just put it back to OEM and let RB crank position sensor cables disconnected from the bike just hanging securely by the side. I hope that makes sense haha

 

Cheers, ill have look at that over weekend when bike is sitting idle

[john_aero]

9 hours ago, Justin said:

@john_aero It does sound like you have exactly the same problem as I had. Mine was very bad sometimes and I even lost one cylinder once and had engine light on, etc. After I disconnected the sensor and disabled Auto Adaptivity, everything came back to normal. Later I put Auto Adaptivity back on to default settings and I did not have any problems since.

Here is the screenshot I just did on how to disable it in order of 1,2 & 3. Hope that helps.

 

did you have to buy the PC cable or have you found another way to connect to the unit?

 

have crank disconnected so will see tomorrow how runs

 

need find way connect PC to reset it and turn off auto tune for a while

[Justin]

I had the cable included already when I bought the unit. In your case I guess you have to buy it separately. But in all honesty I probably would not worry too much, if you disconnected the crank sensor, just try to ride for a bit and in any case auto adaptivity should get to where it needs over time.

[john_aero]

disconnected the crank sensor last night and there is an improvement today going to work.

 

if I try hard enough I can force a stutter like it slipping gear then biting, however that me been rough with throttle and not riding smoothly or even in any normal fashion.

 

I will probably buy the USB or Bluetooth lead at some point, however bit disappointing as had hoped for a more smooth engine. I have not seen much improvement once fitted.

 

still no reply from vendor I bought it from or manufacture (emailed start of the week)

[Justin]

Happy to hear you seen some sort of improvement. Of course to be sure, buy the cable so you could see exactly what RB unit is doing and a reset might help as well. I was in contact with @performanceparts-ltd.com and they were very helpful, I send them screenshots of my software settings and later sent the RB map itself which they adjusted a little on the base map and sent it back to me and I am very happy since. Once you get your cable and if RB does not come back to you, send me a pm and I could send you the adjusted map that RB sent to me. The new map they sent me is just a bit more lean in the lower rpm range (3-5k rpm) as originally it was actually a bit too rich which caused a bit of surging and lack of smoothness on my bike. (counter intuitive I know..) 

[john_aero]

How are you finding your bike now with the RB unit, you still happy went with it?

 

Thanks for help and ill get a cable ordered up to have it at hand

 

May also order the "by pass" block so bike can go back to stock in matter seconds.

[Justin]

In general I am happy with RB unit. Truth to be told I don´t know if I buy it again. I probably would, but not 100%. I did because I knew that I can transfer it to another bike in the future and just get new cables and new map. I did not care much about power, more about making sure the bike runs as it should for max reliability and more for the fun of tinkering with it myself. The auto adaptivity is nice so that it improves based on the mods you do on the bike. At the same time I always have that thought in the back on my mind that Auto adaptivity might mess things up as much as improve, I have trust issues now since the problems experienced in the past. Sometimes I wish I did a full ECU remap and forget about it. So depends what day of the week you ask me this questions  At the end of the day, I believe there are many more happy RB customers than the ones like me and you who are on the fence.

[john_aero]

I would agree there seems to be very few upset customers. wonder is it a euro 5 issue over Euro 4 bikes.

 

Re flash I had planned on but getting someone in the country is difficult. so if had issues be lot of posting back and forth

 

Hopefully a reset will help the unit perform better. I am not same as you little bit sceptical about the acutal gains versus price. But more petrol in the tank should help. My biggest gripe is the sudden hit of power over a smooth input (I am too used to carb bikes)

[Justin]

Not sure about Euro 5 vs Euro 4, but I know that even though my bike is Euro 5 (but decat + Hp corse exhaust), my RB base map is for Euro 4. I asked RB about that and they said that it does not make a difference whether the bike is E4 or E5.