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Bike geometry


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I have been quite happy with my Seat Concepts Comfort tall (my bum couldn't survive with the original seat):



Also I am very happy for this spring that is mounted:




This spring from OTR is 5 millimeter longer than the original. And the seat is about 3 cm (1.25 inch) taller than the original seat.


So the combination of the taller seat and the longer and harder spring:

- I have found it a bit on the tall side.

- And, other than all to the front, the seat is a bit too hard (as others have mentioned).

- The seat is taller at the middle and rear section so I am scooted forward.


For reference, I am just a tad below 6 feet (182 cm) tall, and my jeans have 32 inches inseam. My weight is 94 kilo / 207 pounds (American) out of the shower.


So I decided to try changing the suspension links for longer ones, lowering the bike by 20 millimeter. Indeed very happy with that! Since I prior to lowering felt the rear end a little too high with the seat/spring combination, i decided to try first without raising the forks. On road, I now find the bike to operate really much more composed, with lower COG. As other have mentioned, it has come down from the stilts.


There is absolutely no problem with the bike standing too upright on the sidestand. Here after the lowering:





And this is with the foot enlarger:



And no problem getting it up on the central stand, either.



Moreover, I decided to try to flatten the seat, backwards just from behind the front where it's narrow. Never done this before. Tried a few different approaches, before the angle grinder seemed to work the best:





Here, in the picture below, one sees that the seat now is flatter in the area in front of my hand, whereas further towards the front it's taller again so that I am not that easily scooted forward:



I am very happy with this!:

- Centre of gravity is lower.

- Bike more composed, with better control in turns.

- More secure reach with my feet to the ground, makes it easier when tractoring slowly over uneven terrain.

- The harder spring makes the ride noticeably softer as much less/no rebound is needed.

- The seat also is softer after having shaven off some of the material.

- Also less wind noise after having lowered my bum (the cheap screen spoiler seen in one of the pictures above also helps remarkably).


Very happy I vent for it, and tried out some different options! I am so glad for this straight forward, not over-tech'ed bike. Fantastic engine (as everyone knows), and I really, really love the low-end grunt. I do appreciate long travels of up to 1000 kilometer / 600 miles per day - so comfort is important 🙂

Edited by Chev.
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 I forgot to mention:

- Bars raised by 20 millimeter (down from 30 millimeter as before shaving off the SC Tall).

- Pegs lowered by 15 millimeter (SW-Motech).

- Gear lever thickened with a cut-off from a heavy duty tube, as seen here:



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Like the write-up on the mods. I'm one of those just-shy-of-six-footers that doesn't want to admit that lowering might increase comfort, but maybe I'll have to consider it. I'm curious: what's the intention of/what effect does the thicker shift lever tip have?

Tusk crash bars/pannier & top racks/hardcases/footpad/Olympus tank bag, Rox risers, fleabay tail tidy, Delkevic full exhaust w/ 14" carbon oval can

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4 hours ago, 406T7 said:

I'm curious: what's the intention of/what effect does the thicker shift lever tip have?

Thanks for responding. Since my pegs are lowered, I also lowered the angel of the shift lever a bit. But since the room for for lowering the shift lever is quite limited, after I saw somebody on this forum doing the same thing, I too have compensated some, by making the tip thicker.

Edited by Chev.
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Keep in mind that your lowering link translate to more leverage on the spring wich in turn make it softer, meaning your weight leverage on the spring is up by around 10% with the lowering link resulting in a softer ride. As long as your not bottoming out thast fine.

I didnt read that you changed your front spring as well and if thats the case i would highly recommend you to do so, especially with your weight. The bike will be more balanced front-rear rider sag-wise.



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Thanks @Interceptor 👍 Yes, didn't mention that: Part of the intention with the longer links has been to increase leverage on the the rear spring to increase sag. (I did mention though, that the rear end was higher with the new spring). So yes, for me it rides better now, with the combination of the stiffer (and a tad longer) rear spring and the longer links, compared to with the original set-up. This is particularly after I realized I had to do something to change the original seat. Perhaps the 90NM spring actually is on the harder side for me/my weight, so that all in all things improve with the longer links?


Regarding raising the forks:

In advance I was expecting that I would feel the need to raise the forks to tighten up stability, to sharpen  how it turns on-road and to improve stability at higher speeds. Raising the forks is super quick and easy to do, so perhaps I'll give it  a try one day. I have found it a little surprising that I so far haven't felt the need whatsoever, to raise the forks.


Regarding front springs:

Today, on good roads, the bike performed very balanced at 100 miles/hour. And if I'd do track days with this bike - which I won't - I'd crank up preload on the rear shock somewhat and perhaps wishing for stiffer fork springs - I don't know.  Most of my riding is on secondary roads, but today I also tried some gravel, grass and fire roads through the woods. All in all things worked out very fine, I think. Yes, if I were to to do harder off-roading, I wood perhaps consider modifying the front end, but so far I have not felt the need.


Who knows, perhaps I'll change my mind in time, and with more experience? I'll report back. And anyway, thanks for sharing your thoughts! 👍🙂


For me this forum has been very useful as a place to think out loud about my experiences with the T7, and also, off course, to learn from others. Thanks guys!



Edited by Chev.
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The rear spring OTR sells I belive is a RallyRaid spring wich if thats the case their springs are rated too low (for example they rate their 80N/mm to suit a 70kg rider wich in reality will suit better for a 85kg -90kg rider). A 85N/mm would have suited you better without the need of lowering links and gave you a proper sag and acceptable ride height but your rout is also accepאable.

While your saying the bike is higher thats to be expected if your sag is too short. If the sag is good with minimum to no preload - the spring is good. If thats was the case and you lowered the bike to suit you better and still in the desired sag - thats fine.

Lowering the front for a 20mm lowering link is not mandatory. The lower the rear the heavier the front - more stable less nimble and vise versa. So for your bike to perform well or even better on pavement and open trails now is to be expected. If the front feels heavier than before on turns and offroad and you like to lighten it - than you lower the triplcalmps.

Front springs - riding height is not your goal - your goal is a proper sag if you want the bike to perform in its best. So first you get the proper springs to get the proper sag, then you decide if you want to lower it a bit moving the forks in the tripleclamps.
Riding with a stiffer spring on one end and not on the other meaning the bike isnt balanced. While you might feel its good on the road due to your used to the saggy oem springs, if you push it off road it wont be stable.

Front springs are relatively cheap and easy to replace so again i suggest you to get a proper weight rated set as well, but thats for  you to decide.

Edited by Interceptor
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Thanks! I'm learning as I go, so all advice/input is highly useful! Your comments are well noted and will be part of my future experiments/developments - Thanks! 👍


Here, just a brief side note: I believe that Rally Raid on this forum has confirmed that their rear spring is 5 millimeter shorter than the OEM, and that's the reason for the plastic adapter they use. The OTR spring is from another manufacturer, and their spring has been confirmed on this forum to be 5 millimeter longer than the OEM. Of course, your comments related to spring rate/weight may still very well be highly relevant.


Thanks again, man! 👍 🙂

Edited by Chev.
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