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Suspension clicker settings for 50/50 riding


mikemxbike4

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Hey guys.

 

New member here.

 

Just wanted to share my clicker settings that seem to be significant improvement over stock. Try them out if you'd like and let me know your thoughts. I use these for 50/50 street/dirt riding including rocky AZ desert trails. These settings work for me, but YMMV, depending on many factors.

 

I will continue to play with clickers and update the setup below if needed.

 

Forks:

Compression (bottom of forks) - 8 clicks out from full stiff

Rebound (top of forks) - 13 clicks out from full stiff.

 

Shock:

Compression (top of shock) - 5 clicks out from full stiff.

Rebound (bottom of shock) - 16 clicks out from full stiff.

 

Don't forget to set your shock preload to 30-33% rider sag (60-66mm if you can do it with stock spring). Check your static sag (20-30mm). Install softer/stiffer shock spring if you cannot achieve proper rider sag, or your static sag is outside of 20-30mm range after setting 60-66mm rider sag.  Increase preload if you carry luggage accordingly.

 

Have fun!

Edited by mikemxbike4
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  • 2 weeks later...

I saw a video online and I copied his settings the guy was the same weight as me and he copied his settings from a prow enduro rider that tested T7

 

from fully tighten his setting where, 

 

Front

top of shocks 13 click

bottom of shocks 7 click 

 

Back  

top of shocks 10 click 

bottom of shocks 9 click

 

I didn't really had a opinions on the suspension prior but after the changes I found it was better and I liked the changes. 

 

can you elaborate what is the shock preload and static sag and how to determine it ?    

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You settings look good, but I found that rear rebound setting of around 9 clicks that you are running results in a rebound that's a bit too slow for choppy/loose terrain that I'm riding in AZ. I would recommend you try changing our bottom of shock clicker setting to 12-13 and see if you like it better than 9. if you are riding mostly road or less choppy trails, then 9 might be just fine. I had to crank up shock compression to 5 clicks out because I found it way too easy to blow through all the travel when riding at a faster pace off road.

 

Basically, you need to measure your sag (distance from rear axle to a spot you choose directly above it, market on the rear fender) with rear tire unloaded (bike on the center stand or jacked up off the ground. Then sit on the bike wearing all your riding gear and have someone measure the distance between the same 2 points as in the step above. Your measurement has to be roughly 60-66mm less than in the 1st step. If it is more than 66mm, you need to turn the spring preload know however many clicks to get to the 60-66 mm sag. if you have maxed out the possible spring preload adjustment, you need to go to a heavier spring. if you are able to get to the 60-66mm sag, the next step is to measure how much rear suspension sags under bike's weight by itself. Ideally, it should be around 20-30mm. If it is less than 20, you need to go to a heavier spring. If it is more than 30, you need to switch to a lighter spring. Hopefully that all makes sense.

Edited by mikemxbike4
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On 11/12/2023 at 12:29 AM, mikemxbike4 said:

You settings look good, but I found that rear rebound setting of around 9 clicks that you are running results in a rebound that's a bit too slow for choppy/loose terrain that I'm riding in AZ. I would recommend you try changing our bottom of shock clicker setting to 12-13 and see if you like it better than 9. if you are riding mostly road or less choppy trails, then 9 might be just fine. I had to crank up shock compression to 5 clicks out because I found it way too easy to blow through all the travel when riding at a faster pace off road.

 

Basically, you need to measure your sag (distance from rear axle to a spot you choose directly above it, market on the rear fender) with rear tire unloaded (bike on the center stand or jacked up off the ground. Then sit on the bike wearing all your riding gear and have someone measure the distance between the same 2 points as in the step above. Your measurement has to be roughly 60-66mm less than in the 1st step. If it is more than 66mm, you need to turn the spring preload know however many clicks to get to the 60-66 mm sag. if you have maxed out the possible spring preload adjustment, you need to go to a heavier spring. if you are able to get to the 60-66mm sag, the next step is to measure how much rear suspension sags under bike's weight by itself. Ideally, it should be around 20-30mm. If it is less than 20, you need to go to a heavier spring. If it is more than 30, you need to switch to a lighter spring. Hopefully that all makes sense.

 

ok I will give it a try, and thanks for that detailed explanation. If you don't mind me asking (for comparison) how much do you weigh ?   

Edited by maddog123
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Just now, maddog123 said:

 

ok I will give it a try, and thanks for that detailed explanation. If you don't mind me asking (for comparison) how much weigh ?   

I weigh 165 lbs

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check Nomad Sweden with his 50/50 suspension settings on youtube. I used his on my WR (although the ranges are different) and i found improvements over stock. many seem to like it. 

 

 

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2 minutes ago, ninot7 said:

check Nomad Sweden with his 50/50 suspension settings on youtube. I used his on my WR (although the ranges are different) and i found improvements over stock. many seem to like it. 

 

 

The shock rebound he runs is too slow for my liking.

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21 minutes ago, mikemxbike4 said:

I weigh 165 lbs

holy and you set it that stiff on your rear must be hell of terrain.   

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19 minutes ago, ninot7 said:

check Nomad Sweden with his 50/50 suspension settings on youtube. I used his on my WR (although the ranges are different) and i found improvements over stock. many seem to like it. 

 

 

That's the video I saw and based my settings on, I will try mikeemxbike4 recommendation and will report back, although it will probably next spring since it is winter for me here.   

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On 11/11/2023 at 12:34 PM, maddog123 said:

 

 

can you elaborate what is the shock preload and static sag and how to determine it ?    

Here's a discussion on that for you.

 

https://www.tenere700.net/topic/3851-how-to-measureset-rider-sag/#comment-44197

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8 hours ago, maddog123 said:

holy and you set it that stiff on your rear must be hell of terrain.   

My weight has more to do with spring preload, not compression damping. You can be a pretty light rider and still prefer stiff compression damping settings.

 

As far as rebound damping - more preload on spring requires more rebound damping, so you might want to run less clicks out if your spring is really cranked down.

Edited by mikemxbike4
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Je change les ressorts avant et arrière pour des ressorts plus durs. (100 kg)

90 Nm à l'arrière et 6,3 Nm à l'avant.

 

TENERE une "compression linéaire". Pas de vitesse faible et élevée séparément. Le prix bas est la première raison et c'est ok.

si vous faites des compressions plus dures, c'est sur tout le trajet, les petites bosses et les plus grosses.

 

Dans cette configuration ressorts, les configurations hydrauliques peuvent être plus douces. (Pas besoin de faire plus fort en compression (ajuster 1 clic si nécessaire), pas de poc poc poc sur les petites bosses, mieux sur les trous et les plus grosses bosses) .

Pas de point dur en compression, la fourche est plus douce et un peu plus haute, fonctionne mieux en haut. Pas besoin de jouer avec les compressions, ouvrez Rebond 1-2 clics pour le tout-terrain depuis les paramètres OEM (testez votre ressenti)

Restez actif sur vos jambes dans les gros bumps...

 

Même chose pour l'amortisseur arrière. 

L'équilibre arrière-avant est OK.

Je ferme le rebond 2-3 clics pour des balades rapides en rue. 

Les ressorts OEM sont orientés street riding (donnent un SAG trop faible) et donnent une sensation dure en tout-terrain et la conversion pour des ressorts à votre poids est bon marché. 

Fais-le si votre poids est supérieur à 70kg équipement complet.

 

 

 

 

Edited by ALMAN
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