How to: Bypass clutch and sidestand switches

[Hogan]

Hello fellow Tenerites.

 

Doing this will bypass both the clutch and side stand safety switches and allow you to start the motor with either the side stand down or clutch engaged.

Bypassing the clutch this way does not affect the fueling like it would if you simply shorted the switch at the clutch lever.

If you did not know, when the clutch is pulled in, or the gearbox is in neutral, the fuel/timing mapping is altered to reduce emissions.

Therefore the traditional method of simply removing the clutch switch and shorting the connector does not work on the T7 or MT07 (and presumably the R7).

When doing this modification, the leaned out fuel map is still employed when you pull the clutch in, or put the bike in neutral - assuming you leave the clutch switch in place

 

Before continuing understand this is an Australian delivered 2019 Tenere and there may be difference with other region or newer models. If you are unsure, consult your relevant service manual.

While the idea is the same, the wire colour and locations within the connector may differ.

 

The relay you want is behind the rear fender on the RHS:

 

The two wire you want to jump are these two blue/white ones

 

What you are doing is bypassing this relay that prohibits engine starting:

How you choose to bypass is up to you. The most reliable way is to cut and join the wires. Here I have deployed the back probe method for testing purposes.

 

 

Now you can remove both the clutch switch and sidestand switch, leaving the connectors open.

 

 

 

 

 

Edited December 10, 2023 by Hogan

[random1781]

Isn't the clutch switch tied to engine mapping?

[Hogan]

13 hours ago, random1781 said:

Isn't the clutch switch tied to engine mapping?

Yes.

This method gets around that problem.

[katana]

Interesting.  I have a problematic clutch switch.  I have needed to start in neutral for a while now.  Does the eco mode still show on the clocks?  I know the neutral switch bypass didn't.

 

 

[random1781]

On 12/10/2023 at 11:08 PM, Hogan said:

Yes.

This method gets around that problem.

Doh....sorry about that, I clearly skimmed it. This is brilliant. When I get some time I'll give this a shot on my 2021 US model and see if it's the same.

[Hollybrook]

I've been thinking about what it would take to have a toggle switch for road/offroad. 

 

Road would be stock and offroad would turn off ABS and this mod. The ABS would require wiring inside the display to the switch leads and also adding a one-shot circuit to replicate the long button press.

 

My dilemma is that I like the simplicity and reliability of the T7 and this would diminish them. 

[random1781]

40 minutes ago, Hollybrook said:

I've been thinking about what it would take to have a toggle switch for road/offroad. 

 

Road would be stock and offroad would turn off ABS and this mod. The ABS would require wiring inside the display to the switch leads and also adding a one-shot circuit to replicate the long button press.

 

My dilemma is that I like the simplicity and reliability of the T7 and this would diminish them. 

The number of actions or time it takes to change a frequently used setting on modern bikes is really frustrating. A toggle switch would be awesome, but I'm also with you on the complexity bit.

 

Whats the purpose of changing maps with the clutch in? Or maybe a better way to ask is what's the benefit?

[Hammerhead]

Or another option.

[Hollybrook]

@random1781 I believe the mapping differences are for emissions.

 

I really dislike having the ABS reset on power cycles.  My forgetting about it has caused some scary moments offroad when I had no brakes coming into a corner at speed.

[Hogan]

On 12/11/2023 at 5:39 PM, katana said:

Does the eco mode still show on the clocks?  I know the neutral switch bypass didn't.

 

The eco light still works. It will stay on now at engine idle (such as when you come to a stop). But otherwise seems to work normally.

 

 

[Spadac]

Just wanted to thank everyone for this thread. Just bought a 2024 in December and put an RSC clutch lever on but when I did couldn't start it in gear. Followed this for it and it would crank over with the clutch and side stand switch open but not start. So I closed both circuits and that allowed it to start. Thought it might be useful info for anyone with a newer model to try. 

[Hollybrook]

I am almost done with a number of mods, including a more elegant version of this one.  I am waiting on another switch for a related part of my bike makeover and will report back once I have done some testing.

 

The short story is that I am installing a three way switch that allows me to make some on the fly changes for off road riding.  The options are:

 

1)  Street, with 2-wheel ABS and the clutch/side stand switches functioning.

2)  ABS off only.

3)  ABS off and the clutch/side stand switches disabled, allowing the bike to be started even if in gear and the clutch not pulled in.

 

The only thing I am not able to resolve is that you need to turn the bike off to reenable the ABS.

[Windblown]

2 hours ago, Hollybrook said:

I am almost done with a number of mods, including a more elegant version of this one.  I am waiting on another switch for a related part of my bike makeover and will report back once I have done some testing.

 

The short story is that I am installing a three way switch that allows me to make some on the fly changes for off road riding.  The options are:

 

1)  Street, with 2-wheel ABS and the clutch/side stand switches functioning.

2)  ABS off only.

3)  ABS off and the clutch/side stand switches disabled, allowing the bike to be started even if in gear and the clutch not pulled in.

 

The only thing I am not able to resolve is that you need to turn the bike off to reenable the ABS.

 

Cool set-up.

 

If your last stumbling block involves an ABS fault and light coming on I'm thinking that an ignition cycle is likely unavoidable to get the ABS working again. I know when I do something to trip a fault code on the ABS system on any of my bikes it will not allow the ABS to resume operation until after an ignition cycle.  "Safety feature" I'm guessing...

[Hollybrook]

There is no way around the ABS fault remaining until a power cycle, other than interfacing with the ECU over CANBus.  Having spent a fair bit of time fiddling with the marine version of CANBus, I'm not comfortable with doing this using undocumented commands that affect my brakes. 

 

My issue is actually with the lighting modifications. I was going to let an input float when not grounded, with an LED to +12V.  The lighting controller cannot accommodate this so I need to put the LED on a second set of switch poles.  I didn't get the new switch until this evening, so that will have to wait a few more days.  Riding can be more fun than wrenching!  

[random1781]

@Hollybrook what switches are you using?

[Hollybrook]

45 minutes ago, random1781 said:

@Hollybrook what switches are you using?

Blue Sea Systems 4155:

 

WeatherDeck® Toggle Switch DPDT - ON-OFF-ON - Blue Sea Systems

---

Available in a variety of switch and pole configurations to meet specific circuit requirements.

 

Its a DPDT switch that is IP67 rated if used with their switch boot.  I am using heat shrink tubing and Silicone sealant to pot the back of the switches and protect the wiring.

[Hollybrook]

I did run into an issue on Friday while riding with the rear ABS sensor disconnected, as it will be with the switch.  It worked fine during the main part of the ride, but threw a P1500 code while on the freeway.  This code is related to the ABS sensor and I don't want to have a CEL for this.  I wouldn't expect to have the ABS turned off in this situation, but I need to do more testing to make sure that I won't throw a CEL offroad once the switches are in place.

 

If I do end up getting a CEL while normal off road riding, I will investigate if an ECU flash can inhibit this without otherwise affecting the ABS.

[random1781]

1 hour ago, Hollybrook said:

I did run into an issue on Friday while riding with the rear ABS sensor disconnected, as it will be with the switch.  It worked fine during the main part of the ride, but threw a P1500 code while on the freeway.  This code is related to the ABS sensor and I don't want to have a CEL for this.  I wouldn't expect to have the ABS turned off in this situation, but I need to do more testing to make sure that I won't throw a CEL offroad once the switches are in place.

 

If I do end up getting a CEL while normal off road riding, I will investigate if an ECU flash can inhibit this without otherwise affecting the ABS.

Yeah P1500 isn't defined in the service manual but is a generic "Vehicle Speed Sensor Intermittent" error. I think the bike gets speed from the front ABS sensor, but I guess it does some error/sanity checking with the rear wheel too? I wonder if it does its checking over a certain speed or time duration or a combination of both. Curious what you find out! In either case maybe it's a good thing that it does throw an error as a reminder to switch on ABS after leaving dirt?

 

Have you dumped the ECU?

[Hollybrook]

I think the issue with the P1500 CEL is not time related.  I got the first CEL on the 30 minute ride to the meetup point and cleared it before the ride.  The ride was 5-6 hours on about 75% gravel roads and the remainder on pavement, with speeds up to 55+ mph.  After the ride and a lunch break, I headed home on the highway and late in the ride, the CEL came back on.  Codes that I scanned were:

 

P1500 - Powertrain

C1555 - Chassis

C1E16 - Chassis

 

After clearing codes, the C1E16 code was still present.  I have not had much luck identifying the chassis codes, and am using a 2020 service manual for a 2022 bike.  The internet was not any help either.

 

All this was with the wires going to the switch cut flush and taped together.  There is a very slight possibility that the wires for the rear ABS sensor were making intermittent contact, which will go away when I actually get the switch installed.

 

The ABS light is on when the rear sensor is disconnected, so no additional indicator needed.  I would really like the CEL light to function correctly as a problem indicator.

 

I don't have any way to dump the ECU.  If only I had bought the flash kit instead of sending in my ECU!