would appreciate any first hand personal feedback on the Throttle Tamer. Thanks..
 

Motorcycle Throttles and Handguards

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Throttle tamers work very well, and do cut out snatching. I have used in the past on a KTM SMT990 very snatchy.  They operate by using a smaller diameter at the start of the twist grip then ramps up to a larger diameter. At the start the throttle cable is traveling on the outside of the small diameter (which has a much smaller circumference) therefore the cable is not moving as far, slowing cable travel at the initial rider's wrist input.

Then in the higher rev. range it moves faster than the start (Stock diameter) Snatching isn't noticeable in the higher ranges and you would need to twist your wrist way beyond comfort if it didn't return to a larger diameter. I personally don't think the T7 is NOT problematic, you might have another issue.??

Edited April 17, 20205 yr by Louis

bump - interesting subject.

On 4/16/2020 at 7:30 PM, Louis said:

Throttle tamers work very well, and do cut out snatching. I have used in the past on a KTM SMT990 very snatchy.  They operate by using a smaller diameter at the start of the twist grip then ramps up to a larger diameter. At the start the throttle cable is traveling on the outside of the small diameter (which has a much smaller circumference) therefore the cable is not moving as far, slowing cable travel at the initial rider's wrist input.

Then in the higher rev. range it moves faster than the start (Stock diameter) Snatching isn't noticeable in the higher ranges and you would need to twist your wrist way beyond comfort if it didn't return to a larger diameter. I personally don't think the T7 is NOT problematic, you might have another issue.??

Did you use a throttle tamer on the T7 or other strategy?

I had one on an 800GS and it really helped because that throttle was really snatchy.  The fueling was terrible on that bike. I don't think the T7 is snatchy at all. I think people think the low end torque makes it feel snatchy. You would probably be better off the go to a 16 front sprocket to reduce the low end torque.

Or get it flashed. 

 

The snatchy feel on the throttle isn't about gearing (though going to a 16t front will reduce how strong it feels because you're reducing rear wheel torque at all rpms, not just low), it's happening because of the injector decel cutoff.  That is, when you come off the throttle, the bike fully stops injecting fuel until the RPM's fall to idle.  This makes a much more significant "on/off" feel when you go right off the throttle vs. like 1% throttle.  This can be toggled on or off when the bike is flashed.  If it's turned off, the on/off nature of the throttle completely stops and the bike isn't jerky at all.

 

The flip side is, if you turn it off, you'll get some popping on decel because the bike will ALWAYS inject idle level fuel when decelerating instead of zero fuel.  Technically this means you'll also use a bit more fuel, but it's a trivially small amount - only a very little bit more, and only when you're at zero throttle AND actively engine braking.

 

This is a very, very common issue with the CP2 bikes and is very well researched and understood.  It's basically always turned off by default with any aftermarket flash. 

Before flashing, changing gears or getting throttle tamers, adjust your throttle free play if you haven't already. Manual suggests 3 - 5 mm free play that is way too much to accurately control the throttle. That and the small free play on horizontal direction makes throttle very hard to control in the idle threshold.

 

Adjust the throttle cable by leaving just very small amount of free play. Check that bike still idles when you turn handlebars all the way in both directions. Take a test ride and you will be amazed how much smoother your gas just got.

 

I've adjusted mine to have  less than 1mm of free play and never has any issues. But use your brain and figure out how much free play you can shave off without gas getting on. Too little and you will notice that your in a situation when you cannot cut off gas.

 

Also consider doing this mod, this one addresses the horizontal freeplay: 

 

1 hour ago, witgen said:

Before flashing, changing gears or getting throttle tamers, adjust your throttle free play if you haven't already. Manual suggests 3 - 5 mm free play that is way too much to accurately control the throttle. That and the small free play on horizontal direction makes throttle very hard to control in the idle threshold.

 

Adjust the throttle cable by leaving just very small amount of free play. Check that bike still idles when you turn handlebars all the way in both directions. Take a test ride and you will be amazed how much smoother your gas just got.

 

I've adjusted mine to have  less than 1mm of free play and never has any issues. But use your brain and figure out how much free play you can shave off without gas getting on. Too little and you will notice that your in a situation when you cannot cut off gas.

 

Also consider doing this mod, this one addresses the horizontal freeplay: 

 

Best advice yet, this makes ALL the difference. After this I added the R6 throttle cam which has about half the throw, still smooth as butter.

On 4/28/2022 at 9:23 AM, Wintersdark said:

Or get it flashed. 

 

The snatchy feel on the throttle isn't about gearing (though going to a 16t front will reduce how strong it feels because you're reducing rear wheel torque at all rpms, not just low), it's happening because of the injector decel cutoff.  That is, when you come off the throttle, the bike fully stops injecting fuel until the RPM's fall to idle.  This makes a much more significant "on/off" feel when you go right off the throttle vs. like 1% throttle.  This can be toggled on or off when the bike is flashed.  If it's turned off, the on/off nature of the throttle completely stops and the bike isn't jerky at all.

 

The flip side is, if you turn it off, you'll get some popping on decel because the bike will ALWAYS inject idle level fuel when decelerating instead of zero fuel.  Technically this means you'll also use a bit more fuel, but it's a trivially small amount - only a very little bit more, and only when you're at zero throttle AND actively engine braking.

 

This is a very, very common issue with the CP2 bikes and is very well researched and understood.  It's basically always turned off by default with any aftermarket flash. 

That makes a lot of sense! I just got my bike 10 days ago, and I'm amazed at how jerky it is, especially if letting go of the gas and the picking it up. There's almost no way to do that smoothly, and if you're standing up on the pegs, it's very frustrating to be jerked around, so to speak

Throttle tamer worked great on my 05 FJR1300. Before buying one for my 22 T7 I tried taking out all the free play, and that worked. It’s a game changer. For free. 

Unwinding the throttle spring helps also. There is a how to somewhere on here. Very simple to do but the only thing that made a big difference for me was a flash.

3 hours ago, S.Ga.Rider said:

Unwinding the throttle spring helps also. There is a how to somewhere on here. Very simple to do but the only thing that made a big difference for me was a flash.