Aleksandar13 Posted May 29, 2020 Share Posted May 29, 2020 Hello chaps, since I have probably been the first to make this conversion it might be a good idea to write a how to make this happen the way I did it and give people as much information as possible to do themselves if they wish to do so. What is needed: Hubs : stock or aftermarket, I choose the stock ones and they look great. You can either buy from yamaha or sacrifice your own wheels like I did. Spokes : I haven't measured mine yet but I know they are beefier than stock ones on the back and are made out of stainless, the wheel builder has done them bespoke to match the hubs and the rims together. Rims : I have gone for Excel Takasaga (I think that's what their called).. Gloss black. But any supermoto rims will do as long as they have 36 no holes for the spokes. Size for rims: 3.5 inch 17 front 5.0 inch 17 back Nipples : brass or stainless, mine are stainless Tyres : any street tyre will do I went for the: Mitas Sport force plus. 120 70 17 160 60 17 Once you have these you need to find a wheel builder that does it for you. Costs are dependent on where you source the parts. For me it worked out like this : All prices in British pounds Rims: 180 +150 = 330 Spokes and nipples : 150 Assembly : 50 per wheel plus 20 per wheel punching wholes in rims. Total for wheels : 620 Tyres and tubes plus fitting 180. All of the above is not the cheapest way of getting these done if you choose smpro rims and spokes package you can get them done cheaper. Parts that are not on the shelf for the conversion are the ABS rings which I have laser cut and you get an accurate speedo withing 2 to 3 miles per hour and a working ABS. I can make these for people if there is enough interest no problem. Suspension setup needs to be softer than stock on the front to compensate for the stiffer 17 tyre and rim. I have set up my sag and with 90nm spring it now handles great. Forks are flushed with the triples as the bike was a bit twitchy mid corner and I like to tell the bike where to go not the bike to lean into corners... Handles amazing and the extra tyre front and back let's you push the bike more on braking and on corner exit. With these tyres I have yet to reach the limit on public roads but with the 21 front I have had some slippage from the front end... If you are only doing street or can afford both sets of wheels I would recommend this mod as it has transformed the bike. It surprises a lot of bikes on the road and with this engine and a nice set up suspension this is the ultimate carving machine for canyon, mountain and twisty roads. Height of the bike has dropped probably 46mm from stock and I have made side stand but didn't like the lean on it so I use the stock one... Works OK no problems so far. Sprocket has been changed to 16t to get back to stock gearing... With 15t it was to high revving and in my opinion loosing momentum out of corners... Now it is perfect. Front fender is stock and moved one bolt down in the brackets, works OK but needs cutting down on the back. I'm happy with the looks... The brake lines are still attached to the fender as stock but the bracket between the forks on the triple has been spaced out with washers. Once I get some time on my hand I will develop for myself small brackets to fill the holes in the stock fender or if someone on this forum makes the mt10 fender work might go that route.. For now I'm happy with the look. I hope I haven't forgotten anything... Now to pictures : 7 1 Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
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