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Yamaha Tenere 700 Oil Change


tenerecanada

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  • 4 weeks later...

Good job buddy. Is motul fully Synthetic and higher grade or smoother operation than the yamalube?

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5 minutes ago, Matth said:

Good job buddy. Is motul fully Synthetic and higher grade or smoother operation than the yamalube?

It is fully synthetic and contains "Ester" whatever that means, and I would assume is on par with Yamalube full synthetic. I will admit the shifting is nothing but butter smooth. I noticed a large improvement when I swapped out the break in oil.


7100 4T 10W-40 - Motul

 

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Location: Central Ontario, Canada

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Ok just changed from Yama to their fully synthetic 10w40 and also half way up sight glass and converted it into a slick down change. Very pleased! 

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  • 4 weeks later...

One tip I’d like to share, prime the oil filter by slowly filling with oil prior to installing.  It will take a few goes to fill it as the oil needs to soak through the element. Yes, a little will spill out when you screw it on.

 

Reasoning is it helps lessen the dry start time as the little oil pump has to first fill the filter then pressurise the oil galleries to properly lubricate the motor. Only takes seconds I’m sure but most wear occurs at startup as oil pressure builds, so why lengthen that after an oil change?

 

cheers John.

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  • 3 weeks later...

North America T7 here.

 

Manual states 2.6 liters of oil on an Oil+filter change. I found this to completely cover the sight window. This with the bike on a center stand, perfectly upright. I had a worry of oil being overfilled. 

 

2.5 liters shows a perfect level on the window. Right at the upper range mark. This will be my from-now-on full-change volume. 

 

What has been you alls experience.

 

Also, replace fill cap before starting motor. A friend told me this.

Edited by ahamay
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7 minutes ago, ahamay said:

Also, replace fill cap before starting motor. A friend told me this.

top tip.....i did this error on my car once......the engine bay will not now rust😃

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I did replace my filter and oil this weekend... coming from a KTM where the oil drain plug is 14lb/ft 32lb/ft seems really high!

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A tip I’d like to share that I’ve been using for decades however have never once heard/read any mention of it. Remove oil filler cap and oil filter “prior” to removing oil sump bolt...why? For maximum removal of any heavier than oil particles either suspended in the oil or at rest in bottom of sump you want the oil to flush out as swiftly as possible carrying these particles with it. Removing the cap and filter prior to the bolt breaks the inherent air tight seal in the entire oil cavity allowing the oil to drain freely without having to overcome  it’s own viscosity. Air in from filter and cap holes instantly replacing oil out of sump equals no vacuum to overcome. O Level Physics for the old skool amongst us! You read it here first....🤓

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On 9/8/2020 at 4:02 PM, Ride & Shine said:

A tip I’d like to share that I’ve been using for decades however have never once heard/read any mention of it. Remove oil filler cap and oil filter “prior” to removing oil sump bolt...why? For maximum removal of any heavier than oil particles either suspended in the oil or at rest in bottom of sump you want the oil to flush out as swiftly as possible carrying these particles with it. Removing the cap and filter prior to the bolt breaks the inherent air tight seal in the entire oil cavity allowing the oil to drain freely without having to overcome  it’s own viscosity. Air in from filter and cap holes instantly replacing oil out of sump equals no vacuum to overcome. O Level Physics for the old skool amongst us! You read it here first....🤓

Good tip, I always remove the oil cap first, even the manual says this

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  • 2 months later...

My bike came from the dealer overfilled, and just did the 1st service with the dealer (dunno - wanted to throw away money), and it's overfilled again. I'm annoyed. I'll have to let some oil out to get air in the sight class. Dealer put in mineral Yamalube, and at 750 miles I don't think my engine is fully broken in so that's a good choice. I'll do next change early at beginning of summer and at that point use synthetic. Rings will be seated. Do it myself next time!

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  • 1 month later...
  • 2 months later...

I know that oil is a touchy subject ... but what do people think about the kit that Yamaha has available ?

The price difference being so small, I might as well switch to synthetic. 

 

YAMALUBE® 10W-40 ALL PERFORMANCE OIL CHANGE KIT - MC (3 L)
SKU: MCY-OILCH-KT-01     $52 CAD (all cost and shipping included)

https://www.yamaha-motor.ca/en/yamalube/motorcycles/yamaluber-10w-40-all-performance-oil-change-kit---mc-3-l/MCY-OILCH-KT-01

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YAMALUBE® 10W-40 4T PERFORMANCE SYNTHETIC OIL CHANGE KIT - MC (3 L)
SKU: MCY-OILCH-KT-21    $69.95 (all cost and shipping included)

https://www.yamaha-motor.ca/en/yamalube/motorcycles/yamaluber-10w-40-4t-performance-synthetic-oil-change-kit---mc-3-l/MCY-OILCH-KT-21?sourceCategoryCode=216

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Edited by MGG
added images ... and price confirmation
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I finally switched to synthetic and the Yamalube kit seemed to be priced reasonably enough.  I'm getting mine from Rocky Mtn. ATV, with only 10W-50 synthetic currently available,  but no problems here, summer's acomin.   $40.62 USD.

 

https://www.rockymountainatvmc.com/parts/yamaha-oil-change-kit-p?s=1700555

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  • 1 year later...

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