New, Big Rider Modifications

[Andrewmct]

Hello. I have just put a deposit on a new T7. Should arrive in the winter. I am Big: 6’4” 225lbs. Would any members here recommend a spring mod right away , or any other mods for my bigness? Thank you. 

[Alf Meister]

Hi Andrew, change out the front and rear springs for your weight, adjust the damping and setup the preload, put a Rally seat on it and bar risers and you’ll be sorted. Springs aren’t that expensive and will make the bike ride the way it should for your weight (dont forget to weigh yourself with all your riding kit on, any tools and bag you might carry all the time). 

Edited August 3, 2020 by Alf Meister
Spelling

[whisperquiet]

Tenere 700 suspension info | Adventure Rider

---

Here is a bit of info for you T7 owners. I will build on it as i do more. Spring rates. I have calculated these. They are very close to what a tuner...

 

[bru00z]

I am 6'6 and 280lbs. Rode the bike with standard suspension and it beat me up offroad as it was so far down the stroke as soon as I sat on the bike it was quite harsh. I would get at least the right springs done at least but if you can get the revalve too.

[Goldentaco]

4 hours ago, Andrewmct said:

Hello. I have just put a deposit on a new T7. Should arrive in the winter. I am Big: 6’4” 225lbs. Would any members here recommend a spring mod right away , or any other mods for my bigness? Thank you. 

Where are you located?

 

I'm your size and I am still trying to decide what I want to do with the suspension.

 

I'm in the US and I was concerned by all the UK and AUS guys having to crank up the preload just to get the sag right...and many of them were a good 20lbs lighter than me.  I'm 6'3" 240 in all my gear.  Just checked my rear sag is 60mm with 13 or 14 clicks out from full preload.  One detail I saw on a good video showing how to measure rear sag is to make sure you measure from a point on the same arc as the swingarm to axel distance. 

 

Reason I mention this is it may account for a variation in owners either not being able to get the rider sag right and some that are able to.  Granted, it's not ideal to achieve that via half your available preload. 

 

There's evidence in a CycleNews article by journos who tested both Euro and USA spec bikes and noted there ARE some minor suspension differences between the two.  I can't confirm this other than My clickers do provide adjustment as i expected vs the Euro's which I have read reports that they aren't as useful.  I can achieve rider sag with current preload Not fully maxxed out while other slightly smaller guys have to max it out.  

2021 Yamaha Tenere 700 Review - US Model - Cycle News

---

The Yamaha Tenere 700 represents a lot of great potential for the future of adventure land wrapped in a dependable, affordable Yamaha blanket.

 

 

EU and AUS bikes ( at least for 2020) have the same PN for the rear shock (BW3-22210-00)

The US bikes have a different PN. (BAU-22210-01-00)

 

May not be much but...

 

OK so the short answer...you'll probably need springs and the valving isn't ideal but is actually serviceable offroad to some degree.  If you soften it up to remove the harsh High speed valving on the street, the low speed is too soft and you will bottom the front riding faster offroad.  It's kind of a pain to adjust the front for street then dirt...remove plugs, twist neck, adjust put plugs in...etc.  Bike is completely rideable and quite fun out of the box.  WIth at minimum re-spring, it will be better.  Re-spring and revalve would be super.

 

 

 

J

Edited August 4, 2020 by Goldentaco

[Andrewmct]

I live in Vancouver. I watched all of those videos from Australia, too, about the sag, etc. I know I’m heavy, tall, and a new rider. I’m hoping this is the right bike. Maybe I need a little bigger. Thank you for the notes-I appreciate the help. 

Edited August 4, 2020 by Andrewmct

[Fiddyone]

I'm 6'3"   225lbs I've made a lot of adjustments to stock setup that I'm currently happy with it. I'm gonna give it 6-12 months then I'll probably be upgrading it meaning a complete overhaul for me. The rally  seat made a big difference I feel like this bike just fits me very well. It's gotta be 1 of the best bikes I've ever bought new that at day 1 I liked it with few nit pickings.

[Rocke]

Hi Andrew,

I think the guys here are on to something with the CDN and US bikes being different from the Euro bikes.

I just got my T7 in Vancouver as well.  Production date 6/20.

I have put 1000 km  on it this weekend mixed on and off road.  The suspension is not as soft as I was lead to believe it would be.  With full gear on I'm pushing 260.  I did measure front and rear sag today with  gear on but no hydration pack and weighing in at 252.  I cranked the rear preload all the way up.  A little harsh on small bumps for sure.  Will need more adjusting.

So here is what I found.

Front sag.  38mm static and 64mm loaded.  Stock clicker settings. (shouldn't make any difference)

Rear sag.  20mm static and 62mm loaded.

This is just at the outside edge of ideal.

Accepted ideal rider sag,
Forks, 53 to 63mm, 25 to 30%
Shock, 60 to 66mm, 30 to 33%.

The bike weighed 222 lbs on the front and 235.5 on the rear.

Tank was 3/4 full but had tank bag, GPS. Skid plate etc on the bike.

I'm 6' tall and find the bike fits really well.  At 6'4" you will probably want a taller seat and or possibly lower pegs.  I will say I bought the screen adjuster from T7 rally and it works great.  A lot quieter at speed and still no buffeting. 

I'm far from a new rider and have had a lot of different bikes.  I think the T7 is one of the best platforms to come along in a long time.  You can build it into whatever you want.  It is sold at a price that will allow you to do that. It is a great bike for beginners and experts alike.  You shouldn't be disappointed.

RK.

 

[Andrewmct]

Thank you for the replies. Rocke: I’ll be buying at Holeshot. Do you know if they do that kind of work there before they give the bike to me?

[Goldentaco]

I'd second the Rally seat but it's a bout 3" too narrow.  Ergonomics wise, it fits me better than stock and I feel the bike's cockpit is one of the most spacious I've been in.  I put pivot pegs on  they're the stock height.  If I could have a lower peg I think I'd prefer that.  I think Fastway lets you flip the pivot bolt to raise or lower.  It's not  a big  enough issue to sort out now, I'm having fun riding it on all teh dirt routes I've been playing on the last ten years.

 

J  

[Alf Meister]

2 hours ago, Andrewmct said:

I live in Vancouver. I watched all of those videos from Australia, too, about the sag, etc. I know I’m heavy, tall, and a new rider. I’m hoping this is the right bike. Maybe I need a little bigger. Thank you for the notes-I appreciate the help. 

This bike is perfect for you Andrew, its easy to ride, has more than enough power for most situation and rides very well. but just like any other bike, to make it fit you and get the most from it, you need to invest some time, effort and a little more cash to make it perfect. You dont need a bigger more powerful bike, its not slow and its not a small bike, I’ve had dozens of bikes in my time, you can make most bikes fit you and handle half decent, but not many bikes feel really good out the box (were all different and have different wants and desires from a bike), but by getting the suspension right and the seat, bars and pegs how you like them will turn a good bike into a great bike. Any other mods are just the icing on the cake. 

[Rocke]

1 hour ago, Andrewmct said:

Thank you for the replies. Rocke: I’ll be buying at Holeshot. Do you know if they do that kind of work there before they give the bike to me?

Holeshot will do any work you want to pay for.  Talk to Marq to find out when you can even get a T7 now.

Ride it stock first.  The adjustable screen takes 5 min to do with standard tools. foot pegs and seat are also quick change items.  If you want to change the suspension later you can go to Suspension Werx in North Van or RMR.  Both will be able to change springs.  You will probably be fine with stock suspension for a while.  Our CDN bikes just don't seem as soft as the early Euro bikes. 

[wookee]

I'm 6'5"+ 255 lb with gear on. So far I have:

- On-the-road +25mm tail raisers

- ProTaper Adventure handlebars

 

Waiting to for parts

- Seat concepts tall seat

- T7 Rallye lower footpegs

- Installing stronger springs, front and back

 

I had +30mm handle bar risers from on-the-road as well, but with the new bars, there want enough slack in the cables to make it work.  

 

 

 

 

 

 

[Fredz43]

On 8/3/2020 at 8:01 PM, Goldentaco said:

 

 

I'm in the US and I was concerned by all the UK and AUS guys having to crank up the preload just to get the sag right...and many of them were a good 20lbs lighter than me.  I'm 6'3" 240 in all my gear.  Just checked my rear sag is 60mm with 13 or 14 clicks out from full preload.  One detail I saw on a good video showing how to measure rear sag is to make sure you measure from a point on the same arc as the swingarm to axel distance. 

 

 

Greetings, That is  an  interesting concept about using a  point on  the same arc as swingarm to axle distance. I'm not sure I fully understand  that and would  appreciate a  link to that video. Every instruction that I have seen mentions  using the same reference point to measure sag as the initial reference point, vertical from the axle. Using that method I found  that with the stock 70 nm spring I  had to crank in 22 clicks out of the available 26 to get 60 mm rider sag and  I  weigh 40 pounds less than you in  gear.

 

Thank you.

[Goldentaco]

32 minutes ago, Fredz43 said:

Greetings, That is  an  interesting concept about using a  point on  the same arc as swingarm to axle distance. I'm not sure I fully understand  that and would  appreciate a  link to that video. Every instruction that I have seen mentions  using the same reference point to measure sag as the initial reference point, vertical from the axle. Using that method I found  that with the stock 70 nm spring I  had to crank in 22 clicks out of the available 26 to get 60 mm rider sag and  I  weigh 40 pounds less than you in  gear.

 

Thank you.

Video:

 

I should have clarified, for measurements using the axletube to body to set sag.  If you measure from body to ground plumb, then it doesn't matter which point you use as long as it's the same for all your measurements.

 

Concept is you measure from the axle tube to a point on the body above the axle that is a point on the same arc the axle tube makes if you were to pivot the swingarm up and down.  The axle tube doesn't move vertically ( Plumb) to the ground it moves in an arc about the swingarm pivot.  So on dirtbikes where the swingarm is at a steeper angle at rest than when suspension is compressed, the axle tube is actually moving away from and then back to a point that is simply vertically plumb to the axle tube.  This is why chain tension is better to be on the looser side if you're not sure as the axle is not yet at the furthest point from the drive sprocket until much further in the travel.  At that point the countershaft pulley, swingarm pivot, and axle tube would be lined up.

 

If you pick a point that's not on the arc the measurement could be off a tad and the further the point is off the more the measurement will not be correct.  

 

Have you had your stock spring measured to confirm 70nm and or the free length?  I haven't read any numbers yet from the North American bikes to confirm if there is any real difference among the EU/AUS bikes.

 

J

[Aleksandar13]

As other people have recommended, rear spring is a must I've upgraded the front as well and I'm very happy with the bike... Must say mine is a road bike and has supermoto wheels.. But if you are over 90kg you should do both front and back spring in my opinion this will make the bike us the beginning of the stroke and feel a lot better than stock... Bar risers plus 30mm from SW motech, rally seat and short screen to get rid of buffeting for me... 

Aleks 

[Fredz43]

1 hour ago, Goldentaco said:

Video:

 

I should have clarified, for measurements using the axletube to body to set sag.  If you measure from body to ground plumb, then it doesn't matter which point you use as long as it's the same for all your measurements.

 

Concept is you measure from the axle tube to a point on the body above the axle that is a point on the same arc the axle tube makes if you were to pivot the swingarm up and down.  The axle tube doesn't move vertically ( Plumb) to the ground it moves in an arc about the swingarm pivot.  So on dirtbikes where the swingarm is at a steeper angle at rest than when suspension is compressed, the axle tube is actually moving away from and then back to a point that is simply vertically plumb to the axle tube.  This is why chain tension is better to be on the looser side if you're not sure as the axle is not yet at the furthest point from the drive sprocket until much further in the travel.  At that point the countershaft pulley, swingarm pivot, and axle tube would be lined up.

 

If you pick a point that's not on the arc the measurement could be off a tad and the further the point is off the more the measurement will not be correct.  

 

Have you had your stock spring measured to confirm 70nm and or the free length?  I haven't read any numbers yet from the North American bikes to confirm if there is any real difference among the EU/AUS bikes.

 

J

I see now. That is very interesting, thank you. No, I  have not measured the spring  rate of  the OEM  spring. I have it off now and should  be able  to measure it with my drill press and a scale, I  suppose. I  will try to make  a  reference mark that is  in the arc, as shown in  the video and  then take measurements to see the difference. Perhaps  my  OEM spring isn't as far off as my initial  measurements show.

 

BTW, my  wife hates helping me with sag measurements and that checker looks like I would be able to do it myself and avoid her grief.  Will be here Friday from Amazon.

Edited August 5, 2020 by Fredz43