Aftermarket turn signal installation question

[Seventh Son]

I have asked @johnnygolucky the same question in another thread since he has the same aftermarket turn signals, but figured I would ask in a new thread in case anyone else has input or suggestions. 

 

I haven't removed the side covers off my T7 yet, so I don't know what the OEM turn signal connections look like, but here is a pic of the new signals I want to install.  Each turn signal has a red, black and brown wire coming off of it, all with bullet connectors.  Also shown are two little units with black and red wires with bullet connectors.  I'm not sure if these separate relays for each turn signal and whether I need them.  These aftermarket signals have a daytime running feature to them.  When the signals are not in use, the fronts remain white and the rear ones remain red. 

Finally, to the left is a LED flasher relay I bought on Amazon as well as some Yamaha OEM turn signal connectors that I bought online.  These each have a black, white and red wire coming from them.  Not sure if these are helpful or needed when connecting either front or rear aftermarket signals.

Thanks in advance to anyone who might be able to offer some guidance.  Much appreciated. 

[Goldentaco]

Front turn sigs have three wires.  Constant hot ( switched) is running light and neg and pos for turn signal function.  You'll need to connect the turn sigs to the Yamaha connector for plug and play.  Solder and heat shrink if you like or crimp connectors. You'll need a multimeter to test the wires to get it correct.

 

You'll need the oval to round hole mounts for this as well.

 

The little black things are resistors to keep the flash rate the same as stock when switching to LEDs.  You won't need to use them if you pick up an Electronic flasher relay and you don't even need to use them if you don't care about the quick flashing.   The one you have pictured may not fit.  This one here does and is the one I used. 

TST Industries | Gen2 LED Flasher Signal Relay

---

Fix your bike's hyperflash or no flash problem with an easy to install, direct replacement, plug-and-play Gen2 LED Flasher Relay.

 

 

 

 

US and NA bikes don't have rear running lights so even though your new lights are capable for that, it won't work unless you tap into the tail light wire.  The OEM plugs are the same 3-wire but only have 2 wires in them.

 

When you hook it all up wire colors don't matter as long as you keep the same colors consistent for all your connections.

 

 

J

 

Edited September 14, 2020 by Goldentaco

[johnnygolucky]

7 hours ago, Seventh Son said:

I have asked @johnnygolucky the same question in another thread since he has the same aftermarket turn signals, but figured I would ask in a new thread in case anyone else has input or suggestions. 

 

I haven't removed the side covers off my T7 yet, so I don't know what the OEM turn signal connections look like, but here is a pic of the new signals I want to install.  Each turn signal has a red, black and brown wire coming off of it, all with bullet connectors.  Also shown are two little units with black and red wires with bullet connectors.  I'm not sure if these separate relays for each turn signal and whether I need them.  These aftermarket signals have a daytime running feature to them.  When the signals are not in use, the fronts remain white and the rear ones remain red. 

Finally, to the left is a LED flasher relay I bought on Amazon as well as some Yamaha OEM turn signal connectors that I bought online.  These each have a black, white and red wire coming from them.  Not sure if these are helpful or needed when connecting either front or rear aftermarket signals.

Thanks in advance to anyone who might be able to offer some guidance.  Much appreciated. 

 

Hang on to your shorts 7, we're going for a ride!

 

The bullet connectors and the other "block" are resisters. You could use those if you'd like, which bypasses the need for a relay. Me? I bypassed them both and left it that way. I initially got a relay (instead of using resisters not knowing these blinkers came with them) and decided it wasn't blinking fast enough to really warrant it. And if anything, I think the marginally faster blinking actually catches the eye better. Be it with the relay or without, the green turn signal indicator on your instrument display will stay constantly on when turning, and not blink. As least it did on mine as well as other posters on here. Not sure why that is, and dont really care. It tells you the blinker is on by being lit up, and turns off when your blinker is off. Good enough. 

 

Here we go!

 

Going to T7Rally youtube video for their tail tidy install is a good video on how to take apart the plastic rear cover if unsure. When i did my "tail tidy", I also did my blinkers at the same time. For the front, Camel Adventure has a good video for their "high fender" mod which goes into how to take off the front plastics for doing their fender mod. 

 

Both of these videos will help you understand all the little bolts and clips that hold the plastic to the bike. 

 

As far as wiring, I drew a diagram for those blinkers and bike but can't for the life of me find it and am guessing it got thrown out when cleaning up all the trash from all the mods. But this is what I did and it was pretty easy. 

 

Front and back: disconnect both blinkers once plastic is off. Snip stock connector off THE BLINKER SIDE, as you'll reuse these. Leave the stock connector on the bike side. Yamaha did good by color coding the sleeves so you know if its a right or left blinker when not attached, or rather which one needs to be plugged into which on the bike. Pretty smart. Black and grey sleeves. 

 

The black wire on both the front of the bike and back of the bike as well as both sets of your new blinkers is your ground. You're a 1/3 of the way there already. 

 

For the front blinkers of your new set, black is ground, red is blinker, brown is DRL. 

For the back blinkers of your new set, black is ground, red is blinker, brown is DRL

 

On the bike, black is ground, the rest I cant remember. 

 

Now starting on the front: 

For testing purposes, with your bike off, I stripped the wires back on both the bike and the new blinkers on one side of the bike. With a small wire nut, wire nutted the black to black. Then wire nutted lets say red wire from your new blinker to one of the other two wires on the bike. Making sure no copper is going to touch other copper or ground to prevent a short and subsequent blown fuse. Turn the key to on. If the blinker does not come on until you hit the blinker switch, you did the right one first try. You got the wire that is the blinker single from the bike to the red wire that is the turn signal on your new blinker. Conversely, and this happened to me as it's just guess work, I turn on the bike and it lit up solid orange. So what told me is I tied my blinker signal wire to the constant day light running light on the bike making it always orange. If you have a DC voltage tester you could do it that way as well but mine was at my job sight. So it's a very quick process of elimination, or "illumination"..lol 

For the front, white is always on, orange is your blinker. If your orange is always lit up, then it's tied to your DLR on the bike. If the white flashes, then you tied your blinkers constant DLR wire to you bikes blinker wire. 

 

It sounds great in my head as Im saying it, but does that make any sense? Its not as convoluted once you're in deep. 

 

The same process goes for the back. Except, your bike does not have a DRL for the rear. I wanted this, just like they have it in Europe for visuality. I wire nutted ground to ground, turn signal on bike to red wire turn signal (just like what you did for the front)....then the remaining wire left over from the blinker you know is the DLR wire (brown), the DLR wire I then tapped into my license plate wire (the red wire as you're already grounded) which is always on. Worked perfectly. Now I have DRL in the front and rear. White in the front, red in the rear and both blink orange when turning. 

 

Once you've figured it out, draw a little map of colors to colors. Now, slide some larger heat shrink over the longer section of wire, crimp some heat shrinkable butt splice connectors wire to wire from the connector you cut off the original blinkers, crimp, heat nice and flat and when done with all 3 wires, slide the sleeve of heat shrink over it all and heat that too. Super protected from moisture. Then plug it into the bike side and you're done.

 

One key component is the little spacers that need to be installed for the new blinkers to fit in the bike. Perhaps yours just snaps in. Mine did not and I needed to drummel it out a little on the spacer. Then used a flat washed and nut on the backside and it's in solid and wont budge. 

 

I hope this helps, 7. Let me know if this dissertation doesn't make sense or if you have any questions. 

 

 

Edited September 15, 2020 by johnnygolucky

[Seventh Son]

5 hours ago, johnnygolucky said:

Hang on to your shorts 7, we're going for a ride!

 

The bullet connects and the other "block" are resisters. You could use those if you'd, which bypasses the need for a relay. Me? I bypassed them both for starters and left it that way. I initially got a relay (instead of using reciters not knowing these blinkers came with them) and decided it was blinking fast enough to really warrant it. And if anything, I think the marginally faster blinking actually catches the eye better. Be it with the relay or without, the green turn signal indicator on your instrument display will stay constantly on when turning, and not blink. As least it did on mine as well as other posters on here. Not sure why that is, and dont really care. It tells you the blinker is on by being lit up, and turns off when your blinker is off. Good enough. 

 

Here we go!

 

Going to T7Rally youtube video for their tail tidy install, is a good video on how to take apart the plastic rear cover if unsure. When i did my "tail tidy", I also did my blinkers at the same time. For the front, Camel Adventure has a good video for their "high fender" mod which goes into how to take off the front plastics for doing their fender mod. 

 

Both of these videos will help you understand al the little bolts and clips that hold the plastic to the bike. 

 

As far as wiring, I drew a diagram for those blinkers and bike but can't fro the life of me find it and am guessing it got thrown out when cleaning up all the trash from all the mods. But this is what I did and it was pretty easy. 

 

Front and back: disconnect both blinkers once plastic is off. Snip stock connector off THE BLINKER SIDE, as you'll reuse these. Leave the stock connector on the bike side. Yamaha  did good by color coding the sleeves so you know if its a right or left blinker when not attached, or rather which one needs to be plugged into which on the bike. Pretty smart. 

 

The black wire on both the front of the bike and back of the bike as well as both sets of your new blinkers is your ground. 

 

For the front blinkers of your new set, black is ground, red is blinker, brown is DRL. 

For the back blinkers of your new set, black is ground, red is blinker, brown is DRL

 

Now for the front: 

For testing purposes, with your bike off, I stripped the wires back on both the bike and the new blinkers on one side of the bike. With a small wire nut, wire nutted the black to black. Then wire nutted lets say brown wire from your new blinker to one of the other two wires on the bike. Making sure no copper is going to touch other copper or ground to prevent a short and subsequent blown fuse. Turn the key to on. If the blinker does not come on until you hit the blinker switch, you did the right one first try. You got the wire that is the blinker single from the bike to the red wire that is the signal on your new blinker. Conversely, and this happened to me as it's just guess work, I turn on the bike and it lit up solid orange. So what told me is I tied my blinker signal wire to the constant day light running light on the bike making it always orange. If you have a DC voltage tester you could do it that way as well but mine was at my job sight. So it's a very quick process of elimination, or "illumination"..lol 

For the front, white is always on, orange is your blinker. If your orange is always lit up, then it's tied to your DLR on the bike. If the white flashes, then you tied your blinkers constant DLR wire to you bikes blinker wire. 

 

It sounds great in my head as Im saying it, but does that make any sense? 

 

The same process goes for the back. Except, your bike does not have a DRL for the rear. I wanted this, just like they have it in Europe for visuality. I wire nutted ground to ground, turn signal to turn signal (just like what you did for the front)....then the remaining wire left over from the blinker you know is the DLR wire (brown), the DLR wire I then tapped into my license plate wire (red wire as you're already grounded) which is always on. Worked perfectly. Now I have DRL in the front and rear. White in the front, red in the rear and both blink orange when turning. 

 

Once you've figured it out, draw a little map of colors to colors. Now, slide some heat shrink over the longer section of wire, crimp some heat shrinkable butt spice connectors wire to wire from the connector you cut off the original blinkers, crimp, heat nice and flat and when done, slide the sleeve of heat shrink over it all and heat that too. Super protected from moisture. Then plug the into the bike and you're done.

 

One key component is the little spacers that need to be installed for the new blinkers to fit in the bike. Perhaps your just snap in. Mine did not and I needed to drummel it out a little on the spacer. Then used a flat washed and nut on the backside and it's in solid and wont budge. 

 

I hope this helps, 7. Let me know if this dissertation doesn't make sense or if you have any questions. 

 

 

Wow Johnny, thanks for taking the time to post that.  That's a lot of info to digest, and I'm going to have to read it a few times.  I will probably print out what you wrote and have it next to me when I start the project.

 

I too am planning to do a DIY tail tidy along with the new turn signals at the same time.  Will probably take me all day. 

 

I'm familiar with the T7Rally tail tidy installation video.  I'll check out the Camel ADV video as well for the front side panels.

 

One thing I'm confused about is you say "For testing purposes, with your bike off, I stripped the wires back on both the bike and the new blinkers on one side of the bike. With a small wire nut, wire nutted the black to black. Then wire nutted lets say brown wire from your new blinker to one of the other two wires on the bike."

 

If you stripped the wires on the bike, doesn't that mean you cut the connector off?  I thought I wasn't supposed to cut the OEM signal connector on the bike side?  Sorry, I'm trying to picture what you mean but am a bit confused.  How can you wire nut the wires on the bike side without cutting off the connector? 

 

Also, is it possible for me to just do the front signals and not do the rear at the same time?  I'm looking for an out in case I get in over my head.  Maybe just do the fronts first and then try the rear signals another day along with the tail tidy. 

 

I definitely plan on running the DRL option on the front signals, but not sure if I want that option in the back.  I'll decide when I do the install.

 

Thanks again for this helpful info.  I will digest it over the next day and get a plan going to change out these signals. 

 

 

[johnnygolucky]

2 hours ago, Seventh Son said:

.One thing I'm confused about is you say "For testing purposes, with your bike off, I stripped the wires back on both the bike and the new blinkers on one side of the bike. With a small wire nut, wire nutted the black to black. Then wire nutted lets say brown wire from your new blinker to one of the other two wires on the bike."

 

If you stripped the wires on the bike, doesn't that mean you cut the connector off?  I thought I wasn't supposed to cut the OEM signal connector on the bike side?  Sorry, I'm trying to picture what you mean but am a bit confused.  How can you wire nut the wires on the bike side without cutting off the connector? 

 

 

 

 

You're welcome. 

 

OK I see what you're saying so I'll try to elaborate a bit more to be more clear. Lets say just cut the wire right at the stock blinker so it's still attached to the stock connectors but now with a long lead. You wont need it that long but hopefully that makes more sense. You are not cutting the connector off of the blinker AND the bike side. Just the blinker side. Does that make more sense? The male and female connector is still attached to the bike now with a long lead that you strip back...that you'll eventually then wire to your new blinkers. This then allows you to disconnect the connector in the event you need to take the side panels off again. The bike side will be untouched, your new blinker will have the other side of the connector attached, albeit with your splicing and butt splicing in-between the connector and the new blinker. 

 

I wish I could find the little map I drew. Color to color. That would make it so simple, darn it. I just don't recall on the bike side what color does what, but from what I wrote, you have the blinker side Red in blinker and brown is DRL and you know the ground is black on both. Now it's just hook up black to black and one of the bike side to the brown or red side of your new blinker and see what it does. The second you turn it on you'll know if you wired the blinker side into the DRL or the blinker of the bike on what lights up and if it blinks or not. 

 

The next time I do something like this I'll take pics and better notes as I can see how helpful it is. I know I've relied upon other tutorials quite a bit as well. 

 

Hopefully this Rembrandt recreation helps illustrate what I mean by snipping it close to the donkey ear blinker so you have leads to strip and splice. 

 

Let me know if you have any other questions or need assistance and if you want to call at some point, just leave your number in my message box and I'll give ya call and walk ya through it no problem. You got this!  

 

As far as doing just the front signals and not touching the rear yet, Im not really sure what would happen as the front now has LED, the rear has filament. My guess is they'll just blink fast? Im curious to what happens in that scenario too. Give it a shot and let us know. 

Edited September 15, 2020 by johnnygolucky

[Seventh Son]

@johnnygolucky Ahh, yes this makes perfect sense to me now, thank you.  And that drawing is also helpful. 

 

Thanks again.  I'm going to give this a shot within the next few days and will report back.  I like to take my time with mods, especially with electrical stuff if I'm not totally confident in what I'm doing.  Plus, I'm also doing a DIY tail tidy and that's going to take a little time as well. 

[DWEL700]

SS, can you do a detailed report on this when you are doing it. It would sure help the other noobs (like me) who are going to tackle this as well. I bought the same lights after seeing Johnny's pics.

[Seventh Son]

1 hour ago, DWEL700 said:

SS, can you do a detailed report on this when you are doing it. It would sure help the other noobs (like me) who are going to tackle this as well. I bought the same lights after seeing Johnny's pics.

Yes, will do. 

[Seventh Son]

@johnnygolucky One follow-up question - After installation of the new turn signals, do your hazard flashers still work properly?  I would hate to lose that function. 

[johnnygolucky]

2 hours ago, Seventh Son said:

@johnnygolucky One follow-up question - After installation of the new turn signals, do your hazard flashers still work properly?  I would hate to lose that function. 

Works perfect. Just like stock albeit a little faster which I like as it catches the eyes a bit better. But if you drop in the relay it slows it down to stock speed if thats what ups prefer. 

[Seventh Son]

1 hour ago, johnnygolucky said:

Works perfect. Just like stock albeit a little faster which I like as it catches the eyes a bit better. But if you drop in the relay it slows it down to stock speed if thats what ups prefer. 

Thanks Johnny.

[Seventh Son]

Okay, so today I did the front turn signals.  Pretty easy job, actually.  Just takes a bit of time to sort things out and get organized.  Once I finished the first turn signal, the second one took less than half the time.

 

I will come back later and post some pics of the install after I resize them.  For anyone else doing this, such as @DWEL700, here is the important connection info you need to know, especially for this specific set of turn signals:

 

For both aftermarket turn signals:

Black = ground

Red = signal/blinker

Brown = DRL

 

For the left OEM wiring harness:

Black = ground

Brown = signal/blinker

Blue = DRL

 

For the right OEM wiring harness:

Black = ground

Green = signal/blinker

Blue = DRL

 

It's as simple as that.  The left OEM harness uses a brown wire for signal/blinker, and the right OEM harness uses a green wire for signal/blinker.

 

Other than that, connecting the wires and installing them was simple.  Once you disconnect the OEM turn signal, cut the wire as close to the OEM signal just to give yourself enough room in case you want to test it or if you mess up and need to re-do it.  The aftermarket signals come with more than enough wire to work with. 

 

I used one of those plastic signal spacers (see pic) on the outside of the plastic panel.  I didn't have to Dremel mine. Just a little force and it snapped right into place.  Then I re-used the OEM spacer on the inside, where it was with the OEM signal.  Once these two spacers are in place, just screw on the nut that comes with the aftermarket signals, and tighten her up.  It's solid.  I also added a 3/8-inch neoprene washer between the signal stalk and the outside spacer for a little cushion, but it's probably not necessary. 

 

Thanks again to @johnnygoluckyfor the instructions.  Tomorrow I will tackle the tail tidy and rear turn signals.

 

 

 

Edited September 17, 2020 by Seventh Son

[johnnygolucky]

22 minutes ago, Seventh Son said:

 

 

Thanks again to @johnnygoluckyfor the instructions.  Tomorrow I will tackle the tail tidy and rear turn signals.

 

 

 

You're welcome. I knew you'd get. In print it seems a bit daunted but once you open it all up it's quite intuitive. The rear is the same, albeit both the left and right blinks are in the same harness. But like I said earlier, Yamaha did good by sheathing each one with different color sheathing from relay to blinker. Still, I wrote L and R on each one just to remember in case I messed up. And as far as turning the rear blinkers into into a DLR, just tap into the license plate RED wire. That's it. You could also turn them into a brake light that only illuminates when the brakes go on, but that entails cutting into the wiring harness of the brake light wiring which is a little bit more involved but for me, I just wanted the back end to be brighter all the time like the front. 

 

That said, the look is a bit different from the tail light as you can see from the front lights. It's as if the lights are frosted, not clear lens. So the rear blinker lights look flat red as the tail light is the clear red so a bit different look. Nonetheless, it's brighter which was the point when driving and they still blink orange when turning. 

 

Nice work 7. 

[Seventh Son]

When I do my DIY tail tidy, I'm going to ditch the OEM license plate light and use these little LED bolts.  Does anyone know where I connect them to?  Each LED bolt has a black and a red wire coming from it.  If it makes any difference, when I install the new turn signals I'm not going to hook up the third DRL wire. 

 

https://www.amazon.com/CZC-AUTO-Waterproof-Rainproof-Motorcycle/dp/B077Z6WQ6Q/ref=sr_1_1?dchild=1&keywords=CZC+AUTO+2PCS+License+Plate+Light%2C+License+Tag+Screw+Bolt+Lamp%2C+12V+White+LED+Bulb%2C+Waterproof%2FRainproof%2C+Black+Aluminium+Light+Holder%2C+Legal+for+Car+Motorcycle+Truck+RV+ATV+Bike&qid=1600346975&sr=8-1

 

Edited September 17, 2020 by Seventh Son

[DWEL700]

How's it going on the rear?

[Seventh Son]

On 9/18/2020 at 1:50 PM, DWEL700 said:

How's it going on the rear?

Sorry DWEL, I didn't see your post until just now.

 

The rear is complete, and not difficult at all.  Keep in mind that I did not utilize the DRL feature for the rear signals.  If you install yours with the DRL option, you will just need to find another wire on the bike, such as the taillight, to tap into for power for the DRL wire on the new turn signal.  That being said, for the rear, the OEM connectors on the LEFT are black for ground, brown for signal (same as the OEM left front); and for the RIGHT side, black for ground and green for signal/blinker (same as the OEM right). 

 

When you get to the OEM wiring harness at the rear left-side of the bike, there are four sets of connectors.  The thick fat one is for the tail light assembly; the black connector is for the right-rear turn signal; one of the gray connectors is for the left-rear turn signal; and the other gray connector is for the license plate light.  In my case since I did my own tail tidy, I ended up discarding the OEM license plate light.  After disconnecting it from the bike, I taped up the OEM connector attached to the bike.  I may use it in the future for some type of license plate light. 

 

The DIY tail tidy came out great and only cutting one piece of the OEM assembly.  Disassembling the rear of the bike took most of the time for this project, but the process for changing out the turn signals was straightforward and simple.  When taking apart the rear to get the tail assembly off, just keep track of all the fasteners/bolts and note where they came from.   I simply used small pieces of paper and wrote the description each of the different fasteners and where they came from and placed those fasteners onto the pieces of paper.  It made putting it all back together very easy. 

 

 

Edited September 21, 2020 by Seventh Son

[DWEL700]

Looks Great.

Thanks for the tips.

[Seventh Son]

30 minutes ago, DWEL700 said:

Looks Great.

Thanks for the tips.

No problem.  If you (or anyone else) plans to do a DIY tail tidy, here is a pic of what needs to be cut.  These two pieces used to be one piece.  Cut exactly as I did and toss that lower piece out.  The upper piece then gets placed right back underneath the finished piece as shown in my first pic above, which is where it was originally located.  Credit to @BMRT7and @Mr.motardedfor leading the way on the DIY tail tidy.  If you can even operate a screwdriver, save yourself some $$ and do this mod yourself.

Edited September 21, 2020 by Seventh Son

[husky123]

6 hours ago, Seventh Son said:

Sorry DWEL, I didn't see your post until just now.

 

The rear is complete, and not difficult at all.  Keep in mind that I did not utilize the DRL feature for the rear signals.  If you install yours with the DRL option, you will just need to find another wire on the bike, such as the taillight, to tap into for power for the DRL wire on the new turn signal.  That being said, for the rear, the OEM connectors on the LEFT are black for ground, brown for signal (same as the OEM left front); and for the RIGHT side, black for ground and green for signal/blinker (same as the OEM right). 

 

When you get to the OEM wiring harness at the rear left-side of the bike, there are four sets of connectors.  The thick fat one is for the tail light assembly; the black connector is for the right-rear turn signal; one of the gray connectors is for the left-rear turn signal; and the other gray connector is for the license plate light.  In my case since I did my own tail tidy, I ended up discarding the OEM license plate light.  After disconnecting it from the bike, I taped up the OEM connector attached to the bike.  I may use it in the future for some type of license plate light. 

 

The DIY tail tidy came out great and only cutting one piece of the OEM assembly.  Disassembling the rear of the bike took most of the time for this project, but the process for changing out the turn signals was straightforward and simple.  When taking apart the rear to get the tail assembly off, just keep track of all the fasteners/bolts and note where they came from.   I simply used small pieces of paper and wrote the description each of the different fasteners and where they came from and placed those fasteners onto the pieces of paper.  It made putting it all back together very easy. 

 

 

That looks nice and clean. How do you plan to mount your plate, vertically or horizontally?

[Seventh Son]

7 hours ago, husky123 said:

That looks nice and clean. How do you plan to mount your plate, vertically or horizontally?

 

I'm going to mount it horizontally.  I have a piece of hard plastic that I will use as a mounting plate.

 

[SO_Rider]

Great information here as usual. I purchased and plan to install a CamelADV tail tidy and replace the rear and front flashers at the same time. As I prepare to launch into the project I realize the lower T30 bolt for the front panel is inconveniently located directly behind the lower crash bar with very little separation. This will prevent me from using a regular screwdriver/ratchet with T30 attachment.  Anyone have a solution that's worked for them? One Idea I had was to cut down a T30 bit so that it fits behind the crash bar and using pliers/crescent wrench. Really hoping I can avoid removing the crash bar just to install the flashers. Any ideas greatly appreciated!

[Desert Mariner]

You could also use a 8mm open ended wrench…

[Clinton chua]

Good day! Can i ask if what will i do if  my tenere only have 2 wires from the signals? Already bought the same turn signals. But its comes with 3 wires. Dont know where to tap the white one. 

[Lewie]

I ‘think’ the white one gives a DLR light no used in some countries- tape it up

[CoreCass]

oke i think i might be in the right spot to ask.

does somone know of a relay that is normaly closed and open when activated

so i can make my blinkers be on all the time and only blink when signalling ?

[Alsoran]

I have a NA Tenere and will be replacing the signals. In addition I wan't to deactivate the front running lights. 

 

I've found a wire kit that will plug into the OEM connection for the turn signals. My question is, will a two (2) wire connector work with the OEM three (3) wire connector without issue? Or will I need to buy a 3-wire connector and cap off the running light connection? If in need to cap off the running lights connection what is the best way to do that with the exposed wire?

 

Thanks in advance.