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Front brake disc rubbing caliper


ksmoker2

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My front brake caliper on the right side is rubbing the disc. I pulled the wheel off and everything seems to be aligned properly. No adjustments for this that I'm aware of. The disc isn't centered in the caliper. The left side looks fine. Anyone else with this issue?spacer.pngspacer.pngspacer.pngspacer.pngspacer.pngspacer.pngspacer.pngspacer.png

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After reading what has been posted here and consulting the workshop manual and a bit of head scratching I have solved my issue with the alignment and rubbing.

 

At first attempt I loosened off the pinch bolts and axel, gave it a few shoves on the handle bars, tightened the axel up by hand and then the pinch bolts. = Bugger still rubbing.

 

Second attempt I read the workshop manual first. and noted inside pinch bolt first then outside. Result, made a little improvement but still not lined up properly.

 

I went back scratched my head and decided to do it exactly as the manual states and found the axel was being done up way too tight by my handometer.

 

So I;

 

1. loosened the pinch bolts and axel off

2. Give the front end a good few shoves and compressed the forks up and down a few times

3. Tightened axel to the required 72NM with a torque wrench and not with my Handometer

4. Tightened the inside pinch bolt first 21NM then the outside (Tighten to 21NM straight away do not partially tighten then torque down).

 

 Result = No more rubbing and calliper is aligned central again.

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Not saying that my OEM front wheel spacers were at fault, but by installing these Rally-Raid units, my caliper spacing issue went away.   Spacing is centered ( eyeballed, not measured) and no juggling when installing the front wheel. Win/win for a reasonable price.

 

https://www.rally-raidproducts.co.uk/yamaha-t7-tenere/Yamaha-t7-front-wheel-spacer-stainless-steel

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"Men do not quit playing because they grow old, they grow old because they quit playing" Oliver Wendell Holmes - Mods - HDB handguards, Camel-ADV Gut guard, 1 finger clutch, The Fix pedal & Rally pipe, RR side/tail rack, RR 90nm spring & Headlight guard, Rally seat, OEM heated grips- stablemate Beta 520RS

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On 7/31/2021 at 4:53 AM, powder said:

 

 

Doesn't this procedure force the fork to be slightly angled inwards and not naturally parallel? 

 

I have the same issue and it doesn't matter what sequence of tightening and bouncing I do that my right caliper is almost touching the disc. 

Here is the updated skinny on my experience...after trying several different techniques, of which none provided proper alignment of the right caliper,I used thin washers to shim the right caliper, which allows the fork to find its natural position.   

 

 

Edited by prowlnS10
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I'm assuming you brought this back to the dealer ànd had this checked out. But I wanted to say that being a machinist and dealing with castings, sometimes they don't line up properly in the fixture holding them for machining or they get misloaded. You probably have a bad caliper mount and should get it replaced.

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Someone else recommended loosening the axel pinch bolts, pumping the front end up and down and getting that fork leg to settle on the shaft better. That may help also.

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1 hour ago, Svrider said:

Someone else recommended loosening the axel pinch bolts, pumping the front end up and down and getting that fork leg to settle on the shaft better. That may help also.

Mine had the same issue and I did the same procedure as Svrider which helped . It didn't center it, but pulled it away from the caliper enough to clear it. Waiting for a response from the dealer to see what remedy Yamaha might have. 

 

"Men do not quit playing because they grow old, they grow old because they quit playing" Oliver Wendell Holmes - Mods - HDB handguards, Camel-ADV Gut guard, 1 finger clutch, The Fix pedal & Rally pipe, RR side/tail rack, RR 90nm spring & Headlight guard, Rally seat, OEM heated grips- stablemate Beta 520RS

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Have the same issue. Been keeping an eye on it and have been able to insert a 0.2mm feeler guage between caliper and disc. However, recently saw some metal shavings there and not able to insert feeler guage. Removed caliper and in the second photo you may see slight scrape marks on the caliper. 

Replaced caliper, loosened axle pinch bolts and pumped forks. Can now fit 0.2 mm feeler guage in gap. Have not ridden bike yet. 

It's obviously not right and I will talk to dealer about it. I expect Yamaha are aware of the issue,but how common it is I have no idea. Presumably as long as there is any gap at all there is not a problem, but I would prefer that the caliper was more 'centered' on the disc. 

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So I've also got the same problem.  I loosened the bolts and tried to recenter, but no luck.  I am either too late and now one side is too low, or it's a warranty issue.  Anyone else have a solution?

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@wookee I haven't personally needed to do this, but the Yamaha service manager I took mine to for a quick assessment,  said he's used washers to shim the caliler closer to center the disc rotor.  Adequate thread engagement would be my main concern, with longer mounting bolts probably going to be needed.  Personally if mine wouldn't have created an acceptable gap after loosening and re-torquing the front axle, I'd be scheduling a warranty service appointment vs trying to shim the caliper. 

 

"Men do not quit playing because they grow old, they grow old because they quit playing" Oliver Wendell Holmes - Mods - HDB handguards, Camel-ADV Gut guard, 1 finger clutch, The Fix pedal & Rally pipe, RR side/tail rack, RR 90nm spring & Headlight guard, Rally seat, OEM heated grips- stablemate Beta 520RS

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I saw this thread and took a look at my T700 with 6000 miles on it.  I've never removed the front wheel and found the inside of the right caliper  to be about .005 thousands from the inside of the rotor as described above.  There was no rubbing or damage to the rotor.   My left caliper and rotor were centered.  I loosened the fork pinch bolts and pumped the forks with no obvious change.  So, I barely snugged up the pinch bolts and lightly tapped the right lower fork leg with a rubber mallet to center the caliper and both sides of the caliper so they  are at least .015 thousands from the rotor.  I will likely install some thin washers between the caliper and fork leg when the front tire gets replaced.  They forks did not appear to be binding after centering the caliper.

 

A shim .010 thick will not require longer caliper mounting bolts.

Edited by whisperquiet
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Just had a look at mine. Right hand calliper is also  rubbing. Front wheel has never been off. will try the pinch bolt trick and see if that helps tomorrow.

 

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On 11/23/2020 at 7:36 PM, Svrider said:

Someone else recommended loosening the axel pinch bolts, pumping the front end up and down and getting that fork leg to settle on the shaft better. That may help also.

That's what fixed mine. It floats on the right side and if it's off just a tad it pushes the fork over a couple millimeters. Mine is fine now.

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Same issue on my bike, pinch bolt thing didn't work, called the dealer to discuss, they asked me to bring the bike in for a photo and they will see what Yamaha Australia have to say about it.

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Got some joy with a bit more effort!

I don't have a 1/2 drv torque wrench, so I just didn't go so hard on the axle this time and disc clears the caliper, still not centred but a lot better, that's another beer I owe rumrum.

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Both of my calipers were rubbing. Fork alignment did not help. I took out a axle spacer, my wheel had to move to the right, and machined off 1.5 mm and now my wheel is perfectly centred in the Calipers.

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Both of the spacers are the same size on the front right?

 

I have been doing tires and noticed this as well - i have not tightened it up since I have the bike on the stand still.

 

I could have sworn that the axles on my super tenere pulled the two forks together and compresses them on the spacers, the T700 axled does not do this. I noticed after tightening own the axle, that the front of the space had more of a gap than the back of the spacer on the left side. So my caliper would rub in this situation too if i tightened it up.

 

I'll do the bounce trick correctly when i put i back together and see what happens. I wish the axle compressed the fork stanchions together and that would set the spacing with not need to goof. 

 

Mike

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I have had the front wheel out three times in the last week for tire replacement, fork springs, and again for a flat tire.👎.   Upon reinstalling the wheel, axle, etc, I found everything lined up without any rubbing anywhere.  So, I guess loosening everything, lightly tightening fasteners, torque properly, applying the brakes, etc. lined everything up as it should be?

Edited by whisperquiet
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I have just noticed I have the same problem on the right hand side calliper. Wasn’t an issue until I noticed it today before a ride. Could possibly be due to the brake pads being thinner than from new (4000 miles). Tried loosening everything and retightening, no luck so used 2 thin washers (1.20mm thick) to move the calliper inwards allowing the disc to sit more centrally. I will call the dealer and see what they say. 

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The way i have always done it is to have that side loose and spin the wheel and lock the brake and tighten the pinch bolts while holding the brake on. 

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Be sure to check and make sure the fork tubes are equal heights in the triple clamps. A slight misaligned set of forks could cause that. I have seen that on dirtbikes before. 

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