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How do you run-in your new T7?


prwatts
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This should get some discussion going...

 

I resolve to not exceed 4,000rpm or half throttle for the first hundred miles (160 of those other things - killer-meeters?)  I keep below 50mph which is agony.

Speed up, slow down, lotsa gear changes.  Everything smoooth.  a few quick accelerations to load the rings a bit.

Cycle the engine through temperature, so no ride more than 20 miles then let it cool down.  Now in UK Temperatures are in the mid-20'sC

This is the first bike I have with an ambient temperature reading on the dash.  Nice.

 

After 100 miles, max rpm 5000, max throttle about 65%, same thing, speed up, slow down, gear changes, temperature cycles, till 300 miles.

 

Then the last so-called 600 miles ride normally, occasional full throttle accelerations but not exceeding 6000 rpm.

 

Some guys believe that you "ride it like you nicked it" from Day One.  I have been riding for 40 years and this is my 5th New bike and all my bikes have lived long because of my methods.  But you never know... I have heard of "lazy engine syndrome"

 

Let the talks begin 😄

 

Peter, Derby, UK, Bloo T7

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Bunch of Pussies !

 

What's The Best Way To Break-In A New Engine ?? 
The Short Answer:
 Run it Hard !

 

 

 

 


New Engine Break In Procedure For Cars, Motorcycles, Motocross, Snowmobiles and Boats

 

Modern engines are not like your grandpa Model T!

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I am the last person willing to disturb in the discussion just at the moment pussies were mentioned  😂😂

but one guy have already checked something in this subject. Brake-in subject, to be precise 😀

And . . . .  no difference . . .  so probably everyone can cultivate his own "religion" without any harm to an engine.

 

Take a look:

https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=xpoglovyy_8

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9 minutes ago, Hooja said:

It’s in the run in thread as it’s a response to the discussion on doing an oil change immediately after initial few miles. Not first service, maybe read the whole thread and consider the use of the word these! But I really appreciate your concern, I trust you feel all powerful and godlike after that post. Well done little fella.

No offence, a lol missing makes all the differences. Um irony banter lost & doesn’t come across. Point valid regardless of service type the handbook is a better source for spec of oil to use. Guess typing up a question to other owners is easier than reading the manufactures advice; I know which recommendation I’d rather follow and make my decision on (manufactures advice). At last some real debate and hopefully banter. Same on original MT-10 people took offence easy then realise it’s only a forum. Hope suggesting use Mr Yamaha’s advice is well received. Mr Yamaha very smart.

Edited by X Plane
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I have done nothing special. Just kept the rpm under 6000. Often under 5000 rpm. 

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The perfect „run in“ is also about changing oil & filter.  After 100km, (optional) after 500km, after 1000km. 

 

Otherwise, just keep up to the rev rev limits and be gentle on the throttle for the first 100km.

 

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Should have drained the oil from the dealership after a few miles then put in fresh oil with new filter...

 

Oil changes should not be done by miles but rather when the shifting starts getting clunky... 

 

Just ride the bike normally... some of y'all think if you don't follow the owners manual to the letter, the bike god will strike you down 🙃

Edited by norcal616

2012-WR250F...2015-FZ-07(Hordpower edition 80whp)...2015- FJ-09 Graves Exhaust Woolich Tune/Kit 120whp

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Gona ride home from the dealers (100 miles) get the bike upto  temperature and then use all of it from fully open to fully shut up and down the gearbox to seal the rings and never cruising stopping twice in the first 100 miles to let it cool down. On getting home I drop the oil out and refill with new semi synthetic and a filter I have done this with every new motorcycle I have had and never had problem from bmw twins to six cylinders and jap singles to fours my current xtz1200 as done nearly 50,000 miles and it never uses any oil and returns 59-63 mpg @75-80mph PS friends that follow the running in procedures in the manual have had problems as using oil (bmw) and poor fuel economy.

Edited by Peelt7
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On 8/5/2019 at 8:45 PM, Wildduck said:

The perfect „run in“ is also about changing oil & filter.  After 100km, (optional) after 500km, after 1000km. 

 

Otherwise, just keep up to the rev rev limits and be gentle on the throttle for the first 100km.

 

If I do this will the Dealer see that the bike has been serviced and void the Warranty?

Where can I get a Yamaha OEM Oil filter? I guess it is the same as MT07?

Thanks

Peter

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On 8/6/2019 at 12:20 AM, Hooja said:

What oil, brand etc are folk planning on using for these first changes?

I think I am going to use Motul Semi Synthetic oil 10W40 ?

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Hi guys, so I have now done about 300km (I know, I'm riding like a girl) because I try and do about 75km a day to cycle the bike thermally.

Luckily I live in Derby with lots of good roads around, and max speed 100 kph so good for a nice ride + running in.

 

Yesterday I gave it a handfull to overtake on the Matlock Road and went up to ~6,000rpm momentarily, about 120 kph.  For the first time I noticed some engine vibrations.  Below 4,000 rpm it is smooth as silk.

 

Wind noise/turbs from the screen is not so good unless you are very short.  He who makes a nice screen for this bike will sell lots of them 😄

 

Jest telling you - I have no comment either way - it is a twin, and I cam off an old GS that have days when it decides to vibrate or run sweet.

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Sorry, guys, I do not believe modern engines can be run in hard from day 1, certainly not mass-production engines.  Some expensive vehicles are bench-run in, but I believe the manufacturer's recommendations are best followed.

I know some guys believe "ride it like you stole it" from day 1, and I have heard of "weak engine syndrome" from too slow running, but that is also silly.  Ride it with care, and never hard when it is cold. (That comes from my turbo days)

 

That, together with frequent oil changes of good oil and good filters will prolong the engine life. and of course good air cleaner.

 

Don't forget it helps all the gears and bearings, clutch, brake pads etc to have a nice run-in.

 

I don't know how to prove this but in 40 years of biking I have never had an engine failure.  I may have changed oil and filters a bit too often, ha ha. 

 

What does it hurt to be gentle for 600-1000km?  Unless of course you plan to dispose of it in a few years/km...

 

That's just my opinion and I doubt I can be persuaded to change it.  Just one evidence - zero engine failures. 🙂

 And I grew up in Africa...

 

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On 10/1/2019 at 5:06 PM, r2r said:

I am the last person willing to disturb in the discussion just at the moment pussies were mentioned  😂😂

but one guy have already checked something in this subject. Brake-in subject, to be precise 😀

And . . . .  no difference . . .  so probably everyone can cultivate his own "religion" without any harm to an engine.

 

Take a look:

https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=xpoglovyy_8

Thanks for sharing. Nice comparison and even more interesting outcome.

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On 8/4/2019 at 9:03 AM, prwatts said:

“This should get some discussion going...”,....

 

Yep, this topic is usually: ‘Light blue touch-paper - stand well back', meaning slow burning fuse lite for latter eruption(s). Don’t start on the ‘semi’ vs ‘full’ one, lol. I’d response read the handbook for specs not forum(s).


Oh ‘X Plane’ & Cross (X) plane engine same thing: like Moto X for MotoCross (MX), X Plane for Yamaha CrossPlane (CP) X Plane engines CP2 (in MT-07 / Ténéré 700), CP3 & CP4 in MT-09 & MT-10’s respectively.

I’ve now owned CP2, CP3 & CP4 engined Yamaha’s from new.

 

Edited by X Plane
Explained X-Plane’d the 'Light blue touch-paper - stand well back' saying used
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On 8/5/2019 at 7:42 PM, New Order said:

I have done nothing special. Just kept the rpm under 6000. Often under 5000 rpm. 

Ditto, I did similar, then after 600 miles and oil change mainly stayed under 7000 rpm. 

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4 hours ago, X Plane said:

What da f... da hell Ga-ga dopey question is this in the run in revs thread, there’ll be a servicing and oil threads somewhere here or later 🙄. Duh, as it a new only out model bike the dealer would be best doing (at least 95% the 1st first services) I ’d say the majority of 1st services 🤦‍♂️ Therefore, the dealer will decide most likely Yamalube. Any others for God sake just read the handbook not what your mates granny says on a forum, regarding tank engines, rant at silly ass 💩 over... Suggest ask ‘what oils would diy servicing folk use’ in a new thread. Agree that more frequently changed good quality oil is good.

That was a bit over the top @X Plane . Chill out, the person simply asked a question. 😉

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8 minutes ago, Cruizin said:

That was a bit over the top @X Plane . Chill out, the person simply asked a question. 😉

Not boiled 😉. Hear ya, @Cruizin fair enough, wouldn’t be forums fault though, if person is told wrong oil spec, maintain best place for specs is person’s owner’s manual though 🤓. Bit over the top person’s bad language in pm’s 🤭

Edited by X Plane
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On 8/4/2019 at 9:03 AM, prwatts said:

This should get some discussion going...

 

Let the talks begin 😄

 

Peter, Derby, UK, Bloo T7

Eventually talks did began. Some talk discussion censored, due to sensitivities, though 😄

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On 8/5/2019 at 9:45 PM, Wildduck said:

The perfect „run in“ is also about changing oil & filter.  After 100km, (optional) after 500km, after 1000km. 

(...)

 

It might be a good idea, but it's needed to keep in mind there is a mineral oil (10W40) in a brand new Tenere700 and it's being replaced for Yamalube Fully-Synthetic 10W40 on the first service (1000km/600miles). In this case these optional oil changes should  be done using a mineral oil. Anyway that's what my dealer said, when I asked about additional oil changes during break-in period.

Edited by r2r
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3 hours ago, r2r said:

It might be a good idea, but it's needed to keep in mind there is a mineral oil (10W40) in a brand new Tenere700 and it's being replaced for Yamalube Fully-Synthetic 10W40 on the first service (1000km/600miles). In this case these optional oil changes should  be done using a mineral oil. Anyway thats what my dealer said, when I asked about additional oil changes during break-in period.

I imagine, feel and believe that a few more miles above 600 miles is better that many miles under 600 for its 1st oil change, in other words, I believe 700 miles 1st oil change would be preferable to a 500 miles oil change so as to get most of the bedding in done and the old oil with metal particulars in it out. Mine was done at 690 miles.

Edited by X Plane
typo
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6 hours ago, X Plane said:

Not boiled 😉. Hear ya, @Cruizin fair enough, wouldn’t be forums fault though, if person is told wrong oil spec, maintain best place for specs is person’s owner’s manual though 🤓. Bit over the top person’s bad language in pm’s 🤭

And for the record, I just banned that guy for what he sent to you via PM. Thanks for reporting that an sharing that message. 

We all need to be nice to each other and especially new members. Im trying to grow this place and we can't chase off new members who ask questions, and they cant be sending mean pm's to people.  That kind of stuff is better suited for idiotic facebook groups. Not here on the worlds first and largest T7 community. 

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3 minutes ago, Cruizin said:

And, for the record, I just banned that guy for what he sent to you via PM. Thanks for reporting that an sharing that message. 

We all need to be nice to each other and especially new members. Im trying to grow this place and we cant chas eoff new members who ask questions, and they cant be sending mean pm's to people.  That kind of stuff is better sutied for idiotic facebook groups. Not here on the worlds first and largest T7 community. 

Message received loud and fully synthetic clear as running in procedure 😊

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