Rally Raid Side luggage racks and Camel ADV tank fitment.

[MikeCMP]

For anyone considering this combo, here are the modifications you will need to make in order for the racks to clear the Camel Tank. When looking at the photos posted up, I was actually prety sre this wold work with little issues - I was incorrect, but getting them to work together is actually not a terrible amount of work depending on how far you want to go.

 

For starters:

Running the SW Motech Adventure rack (This matters b/c of spacers)

Camel Tank

Rally Raid Side racks.

 

What you will need:

A longer M8 bolt - I used a 18-8 Stainless Steel Hex Drive Flat Head Screw, M8 x 1.25 mm Thread, 100 mm Long from McMaster Carr

Shorter M8 bolt - not sure how short, I cut down the bolt I had for the pillion bracket.

A spacer 25mm longer than the stock one - I was able to use the spacers that came with the side racks, that you would use if you were running them without a rear rack. Was a perfect fit. 

Cut off wheel 

Welder or someone who knows how to weld.

 

Install the camel tank so you can use it as a reference. You do not need to plumb it at this time but nothing will be in the way if you do.

 

To start, you will need to add the longer spacer to the rear mounting point of the luggage rack. in my case I had previously installed a SW Motech rear rack. This matter b/c you will need to determine if you need to order a different spacer. When I measured. I determined that roughly 25-26 mm extra is all you would need, this happens to be the length of the original spacers that came with the rack. 

 

Here are some images with the measurements:

 

 

When mounted up, your rack will look like this:

 

 

 

 

 

Continued in next post!

 

[MikeCMP]

Ok. To modify the bracket is a little more work. I will have to update with with the length I used, but I would suggest actually using a slightly larger piece of steel than you need, than cut / grind it down to the correct size after it is welded on.

 

I tried to cut the pillion peg bracket so it would be a straight cut with relation to adding my L bracket. I made a simple wooden jig up for this to chop it in my meal cut off saw. You could very easily do this with a cut off wheel and that is probably the way I would go in the future, but showing this in case anyone else attempts it. 

 

 

I then cleaned up the cut with the grinder and a file, grinding away the paint near the cut in prep for welding.

 

Next, I cut out the large piece of steel and ut in my L by putting it in the vice and smacking it with a hammer. I believe I used 1/8 inch thick steel for this. I clamped it to the RR side rack, and marked the tube and the L with a red marker so i could line them up off the bike for welding. I did not want to weld on the bike for a couple reasons, one being preparing the bike for the heat would be difficult, the other being I am not sure how you protect the electronics on the bike from the current - I have done it in the past on a non-FI bike and was just willing to risk it. Its also why I used a larger piece of steel than I would have normally needed for this mod. If i was off a little bit, I had plenty of wiggle room.

 

Here is what the larger piece looks like mounted up on the bike welded to the bracket:

 

 

I then marked the spot where the whole for the bolt would go, and got the excess stel off, and ground it with an angle grinder to a better shape. After this, I mounted it in my vice to finish up the welds and clean it up a bit. 

 

 

After finishing up and cleaning up the welding I mounted it back on the bike, and marked where it needed to be bent to give more celarance for the tank. Several trips back and forth from the vice, to bend it, and the bike, to test fit, and I ended up with something close to this:

 

 

 

 

All That was left was a final fit up and paint - I ground it and sanded it, then hit it with several coats of black paint from a rattle can and two coats of clear coating. Hot tip, don't drop it when you are done painting it, as that dings the paint off.

 

Here is the finished product. I had 25mm M8 bolts but they were a little long. I ended up using no spacers or washers as the clearance here is pretty tight. 

 

 

Let me know if you have any questions!

Mike

 

Edited February 22, 2021 by MikeCMP
Added content

[LoganC135]

Great write up @MikeCMP! I plan on using the Rally Raid racks with my Tusk top mount & at some adding a Camel tank at some point so thanks for giving me a guideline to go off of. 

Edited February 22, 2021 by LoganC135

[MikeCMP]

Here are some more pictures of the bracket with more measurements, @Ktmmitch had contacted me for them just putting them here so folks can see. I put the bracket on a piece of graph paper so it would be easier to tell - it's obviously not important to match mine exactly, it just needs to clear the tank. And I did not have the best tools for working with steel, just vice grips and a vice. I should get a pair of duck bills since I seem to do this kind of thing often enough

 

 

 

 

 

[Simmons1]

You are not worried in the event of a good tip over that the rack won't flex or bend enough causing the nut to contact the Camel Tank? 

 

Thanks

[MikeCMP]

3 hours ago, Simmons1 said:

You are not worried in the event of a good tip over that the rack won't flex or bend enough causing the nut to contact the Camel Tank? 

 

Thanks

 

The racks have a rubber stopper that contacts the plastic at the top, helping prevent that. 

 

Aso, I had thought about putting a little piece of kydex or something glued to the tank to protect it. But, I think the danger is the same if i didn't have a rack = if I dropped the bike off road, on some rocks or something, are those going to damage the tank too? 

 

Good questions though, and I have no idea if t is a risk or not. There are some other racks that go in close on the camel tanks, the RideADV guys have their racks and they are really close to the tank.

 

I actually have a rubber piece I could modify, I think its an old bushing. I also have a couple fo the little robber trailer ramp feet I could put there, the rubber would probably always touch then, but would lessen the change of the nut rubbing through. 

 

I'll think about it and what kind of protection you could put there, since it is a fuel tank. I have to tear down the back anyway, to install the updated hardware, and send my ECU out for a flash, so I might be able to come up with something.

 

 

Thanks for your comment!

Mike 

[Simmons1]

Thanks for your thoughts. It just looked real close to me from your photos.  I am still on the fence about adding extra range right now.

Edited February 26, 2021 by Simmons1

[James]

I'm planning to use the Kreiga OS Base designed specifically for the T7 and 24L soft bags and a Camel ADV tank rather than modify metal racks.

 

It will also weigh much less.

 

All I need to do is apply clear adhesive film to the paint work to avoid damage from rubbing. 

 

Any one else considered or used this system?

[bikeever]

Yes, me. But The base doesn’t fit very well with the Yamaha Rallye-Seat. 

 

[MikeCMP]

3 hours ago, James said:

I'm planning to use the Kreiga OS Base designed specifically for the T7 and 24L soft bags and a Camel ADV tank rather than modify metal racks.

 

It will also weigh much less.

 

All I need to do is apply clear adhesive film to the paint work to avoid damage from rubbing. 

 

Any one else considered or used this system?

I have read some folks say to get the normal reign base instead of the specific one for the T700 because you can set the bags in more locations, where the one for the t700 has fixed length straps.

 

Camel recommends being careful with the tank if you have soft bags and no racks, the brackets on the tank are strong, but if you drop the bike on that side you can bend and break stuff with you soft bags pushing on the tank.

 

Mike

[Hammerhead]

5 hours ago, James said:

I'm planning to use the Kreiga OS Base designed specifically for the T7 and 24L soft bags and a Camel ADV tank rather than modify metal racks.

 

It will also weigh much less.

 

All I need to do is apply clear adhesive film to the paint work to avoid damage from rubbing. 

 

Any one else considered or used this system?

Kriega OS base with 12 ltr bags on either side will not reach below the bike plastics enough to put any pressure on the camel tank. Even the 18ltr bags only overhang the plastics a little. 

    The pressure this setup will put on the plastics is more trouble than anything, so look to doing some substantial reinforcements of them on the back side.

 

   The flange with the attachment capture nuts is a weak point that will easily suffer if not beefed up. 
  I  also laminated a layer of fibreglass reinforced plastic panel to the back. 
 

  3M layer on the outside is required to guard against scuffage, but if you cinch that base really snug it shouldn’t flop about much at all.
 

  It’s a really nice system that definitely saves some weight & width you won’t manage with racks,

but could easily damage plastics. Only for solo riders too, as it basically consumes the pillion position. Which makes the pegs redundant. 
  I’ve gone this route for lower attachments, bonus 10mm socket stash. We all know how elusive those buggers can get!
 

[James]

On 2/27/2021 at 5:14 PM, Hammerhead said:

Kriega OS base with 12 ltr bags on either side will not reach below the bike plastics enough to put any pressure on the camel tank. Even the 18ltr bags only overhang the plastics a little. 

    The pressure this setup will put on the plastics is more trouble than anything, so look to doing some substantial reinforcements of them on the back side.

 

   The flange with the attachment capture nuts is a weak point that will easily suffer if not beefed up. 
  I  also laminated a layer of fibreglass reinforced plastic panel to the back. 
 

  3M layer on the outside is required to guard against scuffage, but if you cinch that base really snug it shouldn’t flop about much at all.
 

  It’s a really nice system that definitely saves some weight & width you won’t manage with racks,

but could easily damage plastics. Only for solo riders too, as it basically consumes the pillion position. Which makes the pegs redundant. 
  I’ve gone this route for lower attachments, bonus 10mm socket stash. We all know how elusive those buggers can get!
 

Thanks for the advice.

 

Sad that Yamaha decided to use such brittle plastic on the T7 instead of the plastic they used on the XT600 Tenere's.

 

Maybe there's an enterprising mudguard manufacturer out there who will make pattern plastics out of tougher materials?

[Hammerhead]

44 minutes ago, James said:

Thanks for the advice.

 

Sad that Yamaha decided to use such brittle plastic on the T7 instead of the plastic they used on the XT600 Tenere's.

 

Maybe there's an enterprising mudguard manufacturer out there who will make pattern plastics out of tougher materials?

Cheers, yes the brittle plastics are indeed a bit sad. Wouldn’t be surprised to see aftermarket options surface eventually.

[Hammerhead]

On 2/27/2021 at 6:25 AM, MikeCMP said:

I have read some folks say to get the normal reign base instead of the specific one for the T700 because you can set the bags in more locations, where the one for the t700 has fixed length straps.

 

 

Mike

True, the fixed length lower straps on the T7 specific base do commit you to a fixed location, but it’s basically an ideal one. 
   What’s really nice is the triangulation of those straps top & bottom virtually eliminate any flapping of the base. It can be cinched super snug. Combined with the compression straps of the bags themselves & things stay very well put. 
    No experience with their other base but single straps top & bottom likely don’t produce the same results.