Chain Maintenance

[Toddler]

Please excuse my ignorance on chain maintenance but my T7 is the first bike I’ve owned in 40 years of riding that has a chain.

 

1) generally how often do you clean your chain?

2) what do you find works best to clean and lubricate your chain?

3) do you take chain cleaning/lubricate with you on a long trip?

4) is there anything that a rookie should watch out for?  
 

Thanks for your help.

[Liquidape]

I didn’t know that October 2nd is the new April 1st. 

[Colddog]

On 10/2/2021 at 5:48 AM, Ainm Taispeána said:

I prefer to use environmentally friendly methods for chain maintenance.  I clean my chain with a pickle and then use biodegradable chain lube.

https://www.webbikeworld.com/chain-pickle-motorcycle-chain-cleaner/

Would that dill or sweet pickle chain cleaner?  What is the best pickle to use?

[Colddog]

Edit:  Stay away from the sweet pickles!

[NGarcia]

The OEM chain is the kind that have no O-rings? Right? So it can be cleaned without too much concern with the rubber o-rings?

 

Based on manual it says that is O-ring chain?!

Thank you.

Edited October 14, 2021 by NGarcia
add the manual image that talk about chain with orings

[Canzvt]

The factory issue chain should be an o-ring chain. I say 'should be' as all the north american bikes were o-ring chain equipped. Perhaps your EU spec bike may not. You should be able to see the o-rings by carefully inspecting the chain. See the attached image comparing an o-ring chain (top) and a standard chain (bottom). You will notice the o-rings between the side plates on each link. The standard chain also is narrower as it doesn't have a gap between the side plates to accommodate the o-rings.

[Wintersdark]

There's tons of bullcrap and alarmist ridiculousness with chain discussions, much like oil choices.  But, like oil choices (as long as you get something that's got the correct API Service Grade, Viscosity, correct JASO-MA cert and of course change it as required) it really doesn't matter at all.  There is no "best" and most people's insistence on the "best" is based on a long time using probably just a couple methods or just the first one they tried that worked, and is now clearly "best". 

 

For o-ring chains, the only things to keep in mind:

 

• Cleaning is primarily cosmetic, unless there's something unusual on there (water, salt, lots of grit).  In most cases, it just doesn't matter.
• When cleaning, just be aware if you've got a stiff brush, don't brush where the bristles can get to the o-rings.  Side on brushing is fine, but a stiff bristled brush can damage the o-rings and the likelyhood of that happening increases with chain age as the orings will gradually wear and become more fragile.  If you're using a spray cleaner, it's as well best to not spray directly into the orings because the last thing you want is a degreaser penetrating into them. 
• When you're lubing a chain, it's external lubrication you're applying.  This prevents rust, repels water, and helps reduce o-ring wear, but it's not lubricating the rollers of the chain.  Thus, the actual lubricant really doesn't matter much at all, as this is mostly just a protectant and not really lubricating much.  It does help to reduce sprocket wear a little, however, though if you're getting average life out of chains, you're probably replacing the chains and sprockets as a set anyways so again, not gonna matter much.  

 

Chain maintenance is important, but it's really not anything worth obsessing over.  It's just important that it happens at all, really.  I mean, I get it, we all want The Best for our babies.  But as long as you pay attention to what matters for your chain (specifically, that the o-rings are not damaged and do their job keeping the grease inside the chain rollers) the rest is all just to make your baby look good.  

 

If you don't appreciate chain maintenance, auto oilers are a thing and they work just great.  I mean, I ride year round, including daily driving in Calgary, Alberta winters through salt, slush and snow, I didn't clean or lube my chain manually once over the 20,000kms it lasted for(and was still in reasonable condition with all orings intact), just let my tutoro autooiler keep it doused in hydraulic oil - which, incidentally, is thin enough that it also keeps the chain clean and never rusty, despite water, dirt and salt.  However, I appreciate that there's an element of zen meditation to chain maintenance, and if you don't ride a lot or in really crappy circumstances, it's infrequent enough as to not be a big deal.  As to which auto oiler, I like Tutoro's because they're dead simple, don't tie into any bike systems (electrical or vacuum), and just work automatically when you're riding.  Any automatic one (AFAIK, there's lots and I haven't personally tried all of them) work equally well.  Manual ones aren't worth the time, though, as you inevitably forget to use them, then you may as well just manually clean and lube occassionally. 

 

TLDR: Wipe it off occassionally, apply basically any oil or even grease (though grease may end up messier as it flings off), particularly if it's gritty, wet or salty, and be happy.  Or just use an auto oiler.  As long as you do that, it'll last a long time.  So, unless you just enjoy burning cash (which I get too - again, we all like what we feel is The Best for Our Babies) just use whatever you have on hand.  New engine oil.  Old engine oil.  Vaseline.  Spray lube.  Chain wax.  Gear oil.  Marine grease.  Whatever.  It'll be fine.

 

[/end preachy rant]

[lakincoe]

I have used a Kawasaki KLX 110R dirt bike for 2 years, and the chain still works great, depending on cleaning the chain properly. I usually clean and lubricate it every 300 to 500 miles of riding. Lubes must be applied once the chain is clean and dry to let grease and oil penetrate the inner surfaces of the links.

Edited June 20, 2023 by lakincoe

[Noel McCutcheon]

Fit an automatic oiler, like a Tutoro or Scottolier. 

Constant oils great after rain. Did 3 trips away using this and nothing else to carry.

 

 

[Dougie]

Just being lazy here I know, but before I dig anything out, where is the tap off for the vacuum for the scottoiler on the inlets? Left or right? Easy to access? I’ve sat on my old scottoiler for two years since taking it off the blade. Really should get busy. 

[Noel McCutcheon]

3 minutes ago, Dougie said:

Just being lazy here I know, but before I dig anything out, where is the tap off for the vacuum for the scottoiler on the inlets? Left or right? Easy to access? I’ve sat on my old scottoiler for two years since taking it off the blade. Really should get busy. 

Sorry Dougie, I Don’t know about vacuum point. Tutoro doesn’t use vacuum it uses bike moment to operate.

[Dougie]

17 minutes ago, Noel McCutcheon said:

Sorry Dougie, I Don’t know about vacuum point. Tutoro doesn’t use vacuum it uses bike moment to operate.

[Wallygator]

I use degreaser or simple green to clean the chain with a brush but have rarely cleaned the chains on my street bikes because of the lube I use on the chain.   Have to clean the dirt bike chains more often.   I use Amsoil HD metal protector for lube.  It dries to the touch  so it does not attract a lot of dirt.  Put it on after the ride while the chain is warm about every 300 miles.  

[DanDoesStunts]

Yep. I use a MTB chain cleaner that isn’t particularly harsh and I use a “wax type” lubricant that smells lanolin based but sets dry.

 

Attracts no filth, repels water and my chains just last.

[chadio]

Leaning toward Kerosene / diesel to clean, gear oil to lube.

 

Of the 8 bikes I owned prior to this one,  I spent bucks on the separate, specialized aerosols to clean and lube.  Don't plan on doing that any more....

[mpatch]

2 hours ago, chadio said:

Leaning toward Kerosene / diesel to clean, gear oil to lube.

 

Of the 8 bikes I owned prior to this one,  I spent bucks on the separate, specialized aerosols to clean and lube.  Don't plan on doing that any more....

I agree. Little diesel with a soft bristle brush if its grungy then rinse with water then some gear oil type lube to prevent rust. 

Costs almost nothing. 

[S.Ga.Rider]

I normally use kerosene which works great but the did vx3 chain I recently installed says specifically not to use kerosene

[Gary...]

On 4/4/2021 at 8:29 PM, Doc Brown said:

1) every time I clean the bike

2) to clean: WD 40, kerosene or chain cleaner then using a low pressure jet washer

2) to lubricate: chain spray suitable for o-ring chains, I like Putoline best but that's because I use it since decades

3) yes, but only chain lubricant no chain cleaner

4) keep correct tension number one on your list, too much slack is better than too much tension, cleaning isn't very important as long as you ride on road, as soon as you ride off road cleaning becomes more important as sand and grit will shorten chain life.

 

Cheers

Doc

"kerosene"...

This may effect the O Rings etc... not a good idea to use  

[sunndog]

Clean with pressure wash when bike is dirty

Lube with hydraulic oil when chain looks dry. 

 

Shrug shoulders and replace when necessary 

[Doc Brown]

2 hours ago, Gary... said:

"kerosene"...

This may effect the O Rings etc... not a good idea to use  

Works for me since over 40 years. never had a problem. Maybe something got lost in translation as dict.cc says the German "liquid petroleum" means kerosene in US English, but in fact it isn't te same.
Whatever, what works since decades cant be bad,

[Mapbook]

I have a Scott oiler and clean the chain every 5oo miles then lube with chain saw oil as it has anti fling properties.

I also run it a couple of mm slack, 16000 miles and no agreeable wear.  

[random1781]

Update on my chain! No maintenance at all other than adjusting tension. Around 18.5k miles was when I noticed the first kink, and then it deteriorated from there at about a constant rate - it's pretty obvious when it starts to go. I'm just shy of 21k miles now and am about to swap everything out once the chain tool gets in. The bike has lived the majority of its life outside, mostly in arid climates, and ridden somewhat aggressively.

 

Not sure how much more I could have gotten with oiling, but $233 US for a chain and sprockets every 20k is an acceptable cost for not having to worry about maintenance. Once I get it off I'll take and post some pictures of the old chain.

[Hibobb]

@random1781 18.5K miles and no maintenance... Wow!

I kind'a think you are nuts unique. (But you make great videos)

Maybe, when you have time, you could measure the C/L distance between 16 pins (15 links) of the chain (9.42 inch limit per service manual).

 

I oil my chain every 300 miles or so. I now have 18,000 miles on and I am at 9.40 inches (almost at the service limit) riding 90% paved roads 10% gravel/sand.

Front 16-tooth sprocket is starting to show wear (looking slightly "hooked"). The rear sprocket looks fine.

Planning to wait until 26,000 miles, when the valves are do to be checked, to put a new chain and sprockets on.

 

Bob

 

[random1781]

3 hours ago, Hibobb said:

@random1781 18.5K miles and no maintenance... Wow!

I kind'a think you are nuts unique. (But you make great videos)

Maybe, when you have time, you could measure the C/L distance between 16 pins (15 links) of the chain (9.42 inch limit per service manual).

 

I oil my chain every 300 miles or so. I now have 18,000 miles on and I am at 9.40 inches (almost at the service limit) riding 90% paved roads 10% gravel/sand.

Front 16-tooth sprocket is starting to show wear (looking slightly "hooked"). The rear sprocket looks fine.

Planning to wait until 26,000 miles, when the valves are do to be checked, to put a new chain and sprockets on.

 

Bob

 

Great idea! I measured with a set of calipers and got 241.5mm (9.5"), which is about 2.2mm out of spec (239.3mm). My new uninstalled DID chain measures 231.5mm. I'll also take a measurement when I get it on there.