Shifter length with mx boots

[Canadian-t7]

So after picking up my bike I did a short trip wearing street riding boots, no problems. Went to go for a ride after bolting on a bunch of farkles with my mx boots. I instantly noticed I could barely get my toe under the shifter to shift up. I tried another pair of boots and they were slightly better then mine, but not great. I measured the shifter on my dirtbike (ktm 200 xc-w) and found it to be about 1/2" longer. So instead of ordering and expensive shifter I added the 1/2" to my shifter after the last bend (nearest the rubber shifter end). I have yet to test much, but It does feel a lot better just in workbooks. (Bike pictured solely for farkle content)

Edited June 16, 2021 by Canadian-t7
Typo

[Boondocker]

I would like to do this mod to my rear brake lever since I have accidently rested my toe on it - size 11US/45EU boots. Just need to keep the balls of my feet on the pegs.

 

My Alpinestar Toucan boots have a tall toe box that I could barely get under the shifter. I simply adjusted the shift lever upward. It's a little high but manageable for low-profile toe box boots but works well with the Toucans.

[Canadian-t7]

3 minutes ago, Boondocker said:

I would like to do this mod to my rear brake lever since I have accidently rested my toe on it - size 11US/45EU boots. Just need to keep the balls of my feet on the pegs.

 

My Alpinestar Toucan boots have a tall toe box that I could barely get under the shifter. I simply adjusted the shift lever upward. It's a little high but manageable for low-profile toe box boots but works well with the Toucans.

I was going to do that, but I found the shifter height already higher then I prefer. No issues "yet" with rear brake height.  Only the fact that pad grip is that of cheap Chinese brake pads. Will be upgrading those toot sweet. Anyone else notice in the first few hundred kilometers that the front pads are only contacting the outer half of the rotors? Wondering if its the pads or the caliper design? I'll snap a picture of what I mean tomorrow. 

[advrallymoto]

Yeah, I tried to ride with MX boots the other day and had to turn around 3 minutes into the ride.  It was nearly impossible to shift.  It was pretty dangerous actually.  I know MX boots are the best for protection but its very difficult the way things are setup now.  I've also got some Forma Adventure boots that seem to be fine but I may do similar mods myself.

[Goldentaco]

1 hour ago, Canadian-t7 said:

I was going to do that, but I found the shifter height already higher then I prefer. No issues "yet" with rear brake height.  Only the fact that pad grip is that of cheap Chinese brake pads. Will be upgrading those toot sweet. Anyone else notice in the first few hundred kilometers that the front pads are only contacting the outer half of the rotors? Wondering if its the pads or the caliper design? I'll snap a picture of what I mean tomorrow. 

I switched to the Galfers that Camel ADV sells.  The rear was a major improvement.  Front felt better but not as big of an upgrade as the rear Galfer is.  It's like throwing out the sea anchor.  I've always been in the habit of braking with both F&R unless offroad.  In twisties, comp braking and the new rears pull the pig up quickly.  

 

J

[orbsurfer]

I have been using the Alpinestars Toucan size 12 boots for 8-9 months on my T7. In the beginning it was a little hard to feel the shifts. As the mile and months have piled on, it is second nature to shift, and I have zero problems with feel nor shifting up/down. Great Boots on a Great Bike!

[Canadian-t7]

On 6/16/2021 at 9:36 PM, orbsurfer said:

I have been using the Alpinestars Toucan size 12 boots for 8-9 months on my T7. In the beginning it was a little hard to feel the shifts. As the mile and months have piled on, it is second nature to shift, and I have zero problems with feel nor shifting up/down. Great Boots on a Great Bike!

It wasn't a feel issue, although my current boots (shift white label) have terrible feel(also terrible buckles). It was the fact that the boots couldn't fit between the shifter and foot pegs. I could barely shift with the tip of my toe. I tried fox racing comp x boots and they fit better, also aplinestars tech 3 fit . Nether give as much room as I wanted though, hence lengthening the shifter. 

[Canadian-t7]

Update: way better shifter feel and motion, in mx boots and street boots.  (Size 10.5 u.s.)

[Rider 101]

I usually wear Gaerne SG12s and really need to lengthen the change lever. I would prefer to locate another lever and modify to be adjustable. I did that on my F800 and it worked a treat.

 

[JayD]

I ordered lowered pegs (6’5) that also go back 2cm to have more space while shifting. I’m going to sell those, as I really like the standing position on the T7 with everything stock, its seated that is the issue. Ordered a tall rally seat from Seat Concept to open the cockpit.

 

I still struggle with shifting gears in MX boots. Did you just cut, add a metal piece and weld? This seems so much better than relocating the pegs.

[tenerecanada]

+1 on the Galfer rear pads, part# FD165G1054

[Canadian-t7]

@JayDyes, I cut the shifter at the last bend then welded in a piece of plate steel. It's pretty thick so I bent an 8th piece in half to make it 1/4".

[SpankyPineapple]

I just rotated the lever up on the splined shaft that goes into the transmission.  It's marked with the stock location, and just moving it up 2 teeth I got enough clearance for my Sidi's to easily fit under.  No real change in shift feel.  If your boots are thin enough, you can adjust the length of the rod too, to lift the toe lever. I didn't have to cut or weld or buy anything.  30 seconds with a hex key.  

[kainic]

On 7/3/2021 at 2:13 AM, Rider 101 said:

I usually wear Gaerne SG12s and really need to lengthen the change lever. I would prefer to locate another lever and modify to be adjustable. I did that on my F800 and it worked a treat.

 

Did you find a fix?

[loneranger700]

They sell cheap chinese shifters from aliexpress if anyone wants a cheaper solution.

[Rider 101]

I think I will end up buying a steel lever with a pivot end. Cut and drill, cut the end off the existing and bolt on the new.

I looked at the chinese replacement but not keen on send my money there.