Posted October 1, 20213 yr Hi guys, It's been a while since I installed on my T7 phone's wireless charging head from Quad Lock and tested it for over 2000 km now. It works absolutely wonderful! I am very happy about it, so I thought that someday, someone might find useful this DIY. Stuff we need:- Quad Lock mirror mount- Quad Lock Waterproof Wireless Charging Head- Quad Lock Vibration Dumper (optional)- Quad Lock Extension Arm (optional, only if you go for vertical orientation of a phone) - Quad Lock phone case (depending on your phone) - Yamaha accessory socket connector (I went for ebay) First thing is to install Quad Lock stuff on the mounting bar above the instrument panel. Doesn't make sense to describe how to do it - if you can breathe, you can do it. This is how it looks in my case: As you can see, I have a higher windshield than OEM, which comes from Puig. First of all, it removes a lot of air turbulences in my case, and second of all, it allows me to install my phone vertically (I hate horizontal orientation). If you prefer horizontal orientation, then you don't need Quad Lock extension arm, nor higher windshield. Second step is to take care of the USB cable which comes with the charging head. We must strip the upstream end of it and take care of two cables out of four which can be found there. We are interested in red and black ones, as these are the ones which deliver power to the charging head: I soldered these two cables from the USB cable with another two, which are connected to the accessory socket connector. I made these small extensions, as red and black cables from the USB cable are very thin and quite hard to crimp properly to the accessory socket connector. Once soldered, we must protect everything with heat shrink tubes and start with routing the cable on the bike. Right hand side fairing must be removed to get access to the accessory connector: Route the cable from the charging head to the connector and simply connect it. Then protect everything with cable ties, mount back the fairing and voilà, we are done! Now, what is good about this approach vs. simple USB charging port? The main difference is charging speed. If the charging head is connected to 12 V, it can deliver up to 10 W of wireless charging power. In my case it means that even if I constantly use GPS while riding, phones battery level increases (Galaxy S10+). Never out of juice and on top of that, fully waterproof solution.
October 1, 20213 yr Useful post. I've gone for the same solution, but without the extension (as I like my phone landscape) and not bothered with wireless. I just hate wires and if I get low on battery, can pop in a charger as and when from the accessory socket. I also opted for the Poncho to ensure no water ingress.
March 16, 20223 yr Some feedback. I’ve done this with the second generation wireless charging head. The only difference physically between first and second gen is that the included usb c charging cables have a seal on them. My issues and symptoms were that it would work flawlessly forever with the ignition on but not running. Within 5 minutes of riding, the charging head would go into error mode and intermittently start working at idle. After 2 weeks of replacing absolutely every part in the system, I’ve discovered the charging head cannot handle the sustained input levels from the bikes stator. I installed an in line transformer that steps it down to 9v 2a out and it has solved the problem here’s a link to the transformer DROK 12V to 9V 2A 18W DC/DC Buck Power Converter Voltage Step Dowm Power Supply Waterproof https://www.amazon.com/dp/B00C66JTPI/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_api_glt_i_YANFNS67VM1HVRHD2CEQ?_encoding=UTF8&psc=1 Edited March 16, 20223 yr by devind93
March 16, 20223 yr Author 9 hours ago, devind93 said: Some feedback. I’ve done this with the second generation wireless charging head. The only difference physically between first and second gen is that the included usb c charging cables have a seal on them. My issues and symptoms were that it would work flawlessly forever with the ignition on but not running. Within 5 minutes of riding, the charging head would go into error mode and intermittently start working at idle. After 2 weeks of replacing absolutely every part in the system, I’ve discovered the charging head cannot handle the sustained input levels from the bikes stator. I installed an in line transformer that steps it down to 9v 2a out and it has solved the problem here’s a link to the transformer DROK 12V to 9V 2A 18W DC/DC Buck Power Converter Voltage Step Dowm Power Supply Waterproof https://www.amazon.com/dp/B00C66JTPI/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_api_glt_i_YANFNS67VM1HVRHD2CEQ?_encoding=UTF8&psc=1 I actually did same thing yesterday as I struggled with similar issues (the actual problem is too high voltage generated by the bike's alternator, which can go above 14 V and the charging unit cannot handle it). But instead of going for 9V regulator I went for 12V one, as it generates much less heat than the 9V one (tested two of them). Additionally, I used epoxy to seal everything, installed a small radiator, and printed small support for the assembly. Works great now. Pictures attached. EDIT: As you can see, I went for a different solution with the regulator, as I used tiny LM1085IT-12/NOPB regulator instead of something like the one from Amazon. Much more DIY required than off the shelf stuff. Edited March 16, 20223 yr by lookalek
July 15, 20222 yr That is a little bit of an oversight from quadlock. Reminds me of the debacle with the vibrations killing phone cameras. Luckily I have an old SE that only has a simple camera. I have just ordered a heap of stuff from their site after much research. I opted for a simple cable set up rather than the wireless head. Awesome problem detection and solutions though. Well done!
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