Broken engine case!!!

[Dirt Dingler]

Hey guys had a very nasty surprise today, I removed my OEM Crash Bars from the Tenere and I saw that a part of the engine case was broken! It was one of the two "rings" that the bolt of the OEM crash bars go through. Its on the back where they are mounted on the frame! 

 

I have not fallen with the crash guards on! I take the bike on the trails and everything but there was no crash, the bars themselves are unscratched! I think this was somehow the result of the crash bars, my dealer mounted them on so the installation was not mine to mess around with torque pressure or anything.

 

Tomorrow I am taking it to the dealer to see what caused it and what can be done to fix it!

 

Check the pics

[Bmp4510]

That’s horrible. Hopefully it will be covered under warranty.

[Redneckj]

That’s why a crash bar should never be attached to the engine.  

[Tenerider]

That's like worst fear coming true...

I read a lot about this specific mounting point, a lot of people were sceptic about it, and I admit I thought they were just overcautious.

This proves that they were right, and I was wrong.

 

Thanks for sharing!!! Fingers crossed that Yamaha will cover it.

[Dirt Dingler]

2 minutes ago, Tenerider said:

That's like worst fear coming true...

I read a lot about this specific mounting point, a lot of people were sceptic about it, and I admit I thought they were just overcautious.

This proves that they were right, and I was wrong.

 

Thanks for sharing!!! Fingers crossed that Yamaha will cover it.

 

I don't know what they will cover...  Take the whole engine down and open it to replace the broken case? that sounds worst than simply welding it. If it is from the crash bars( I honestly can't see what else would cause this) its ridiculous! It's supposed to be an OEM part installed at the dealer. Its not like I had a nasty crash or something, the crash bars are untouched!

[Tenerider]

Welding is probably difficult or even impossible, since it's cast aluminum...

[Hibobb]

@Dirt Dingler Your name rang a bell, At first I thought it was a play on the 1997 movie "Boogie Night", but then I googled it!

 

 

Urban Dictionary: Dirt Dingler

---

A person who dosent wipe their anus.

 

Edited February 27, 2022 by Hibobb

[Dirt Dingler]

I guess I am in a world of hurt then. I will see what they will say tomorrow.... If anyone had a similar experience to share or what they did in a similar situation I would be grateful. thanx

[Ray Ride4life]

23 minutes ago, Tenerider said:

Welding is probably difficult or even impossible, since it's cast aluminum...

Difficult yes, impossible no.
I welded cast aluminium a few times and have special filling rods for that but it takes a lot of preparation and pre heating before welding. The welding after that is almost the same as normal aluminium.

[Dirt Dingler]

Just now, Ray Ride4life said:

Difficult yes, impossible no.
I welded cast aluminium a few times and have special filling rods for that but it takes a lot of preparation and pre heating before welding. The welding after that is almost the same as normal aluminium.

 From your experience, will I have to take the engine of the frame, or can it be done without removing the whole engine. Also will it be a durable job since the bike goes off-road all the time?

[Ray Ride4life]

3 minutes ago, Dirt Dingler said:

 From your experience, will I have to take the engine of the frame, or can it be done without removing the whole engine. Also will it be a durable job since the bike goes off-road all the time?

I would take the engine out to have the workspace for a good reach all around.
You have to clean the area real good and use a Dremel tool to make a proper phase.
You also have to pre heat a big area around the weld to prevent cracking just next to the weld and that is almost impossible with the engine in the frame, also a big risk of damaging other parts.

[Tenerider]

18 minutes ago, Ray Ride4life said:

Difficult yes, impossible no.
I welded cast aluminium a few times and have special filling rods for that but it takes a lot of preparation and pre heating before welding. The welding after that is almost the same as normal aluminium.

Had you in mind when typing this Ray.

I guess no usual Yamaha dealer would be able to do that.

[Ray Ride4life]

Just now, Tenerider said:

Had you in mind when typing this Ray.

I guess no usual Yamaha dealer would be able to do that.

But every dealer should have contacts with different company's because there are more jobs a dealer gets in they can't do themselves.
Some jobs require specialist skills and/or specialist tools that make no sense to have in house for an occasional job.
I build garbage trucks (actually build the special parts and prototypes of new developments most of the time) and even though we make most things ourselves there are also a lot of parts or work on parts we send off to other company's.

[williestreet]

This has been documented before and the reason I would never consider the stock bars.

This is the shock mount used when the same engine is used for the MT07 and other models.

 

It is CRITICAL that when bolting on crash bars for our bike that the space between the 2 engine lugs is filled by the spacer supplied by Yamaha.

 

I seem to remember Yamaha had a recall or notice put out at some point on these bars and they had to install another shim/washer to the original supplied spacer because there was still a small gap because the original spacer was a bit short.

The lugs were designed to support a vertical load of the suspension of the MT07 models not a side load like on our bars.

Squeezing the lugs when tightening the crash bars down is not an issue if there is no gap, but if the space between is not filled fully by the spacer you are bending those aluminum lugs in a direction they were never originally designed for.

 

Look around the web and maybe even on this site and you will find others who had the same failure failure.  

 

Before you take it to the dealer I would find out if your bars were installed with the original short spacer, or did they get the modified spacer with the extra washer.  

Sorry I can't remember when the modified spacer/shim was added, but I saw these failures before I bought my bike last spring.  I am pretty sure the notice/recall came out in early 2021, maybe spring 2021?

 

Go to the dealer with a copy of the recall/notice they issued.  I assume they put the bars on before you picked up your bike so make sure you have that date.  

Look around for a copy of the install instructions.  You should be able to find the modified install instructions where they show the extra washer and the original install instructions without the washer.

 

I am sure someone here must still have the instructions at home somewhere.

 

I good welder can fix cast aluminum for sure, but unfortunately you are probably looking at a new set of engine cases or a new complete engine.

 

Good luck hope you get it sorted.

 

And for those others running the stock engine bars get them off your bike.  

This damage was done by just squeezing the flanges together tightening a bolt.

I would not be risking a Complete new engine even if the new modified spacer was installed.

Edited February 27, 2022 by williestreet

[Hibobb]

Other than mounting your crash bars, it is a non-functional piece.  I would not weld it as it will always be questionable, also I would worry about frying some sensitive electronic parts somewhere on the bike.

Replacing the case would be a total engine rebuild... it would make me nervous about how competent the mechanic was. So where does that leave you....  If you just left it alone and had the dealer put on different crash bars, you would be fine. Still, you got a bike with a busted part on it that is sure to be brought up when you try to sell it.

Go in to the dealer and make a big stink (LOL) and let us know what they say.

 

Best of luck,

 

Bob

[Dirt Dingler]

17 minutes ago, Hibobb said:

Other than mounting your crash bars, it is a non-functional piece.  I would not weld it as it will always be questionable, also I would worry about frying some sensitive electronic parts somewhere on the bike.

Replacing the case would be a total engine rebuild... it would make me nervous about how competent the mechanic was. So where does that leave you....  If you just left it alone and had the dealer put on different crash bars, you would be fine. Still, you got a bike with a busted part on it that is sure to be brought up when you try to sell it.

Go in to the dealer and make a big stink (LOL) and let us know what they say.

 

Best of luck,

 

Bob

 

Yeah the only problem is that there is actually a hole there now ... I got some more pictures of the bars and the broken piece so maybe someone can see something I don't on what went wrong. It seems like there is a deep dent in the piece that broke off  where the crash bar was connected. 

[Dirt Dingler]

1 hour ago, williestreet said:

 

 

Go to the dealer with a copy of the recall/notice they issued.  I assume they put the bars on before you picked up your bike so make sure you have that date.  

Look around for a copy of the install instructions.  You should be able to find the modified install instructions where they show the extra washer and the original install instructions without the washer.

 

I am sure someone here must still have the instructions at home somewhere.

 

 

Well I don't have the instructions the dealer didn't give them to me. I looked some online, and there is a piece that was not installed on mine. I am talking about part no 8 on the instruction manual. I don't know if they changed something in the design of the bars cause the cylinder on the left crash bar is longer than the cylinder on the right one. Maybe is this spacer that is no longer needed cause they integrated it on the left crash bar. Either that or they didn't install it!

[Hibobb]

7 minutes ago, Dirt Dingler said:

and there is a piece that was not installed on mine

Ooooo, that's bad! Jimmy the high school dropout was putting the crash bars on Friday afternoon!

[BLZ2DWL]

Without #8, the through bolt would pull those two ears on the engine towards each other, causing one to snap off. Definitely need #8. 

[Dirt Dingler]

1 hour ago, BLZ2DWL said:

Without #8, the through bolt would pull those two ears on the engine towards each other, causing one to snap off. Definitely need #8. 

 

I don't know that I look at it again maybe 8 its in there (in the hole in the picture attached)

 

I see stories that people have heard or seen this happening before but I can't find any pics on social media. I am sure it would build a stronger case when I take it to yamaha tomorrow. If this happened to anyone pm me.

 

thanx guys

[BLZ2DWL]

There is no spacer in your picture. Based on the instructions, the through bolt would tighten down on the spacer, which tightens against the other side of the engine. The broken ear you are holding would just be floating and have no tension. But if you try to tighten a bolt through two pieces of cast material with a gap in between, it is likely that one will break off. 

[Hibobb]

21 minutes ago, Dirt Dingler said:

maybe 8 its in there (in the hole in the picture attached)

#8 is 56mm long (a bit over 2"), I can't tell by that last picture.

[Dirt Dingler]

48 minutes ago, Hibobb said:

#8 is 56mm long (a bit over 2"), I can't tell by that last picture.

 

there was no spacer I looked everywhere, what I posted had nothing to with it.

[Landshark]

On 2/27/2022 at 11:01 AM, Hibobb said:

@Dirt Dingler Your name rang a bell, At first I thought it was a play on the 1997 movie "Boogie Night", but then I googled it!

 

 

Urban Dictionary: Dirt Dingler

---

A person who dosent wipe their anus.

 

I was eating.  For gawd sake man.  Couldn't you just have PM'd  @Dirt Dingler

Anyway, I think that could be welded and probably a lot less expensive than replacement.  Bad break at any rate.

[concours]

On 2/27/2022 at 1:00 PM, Tenerider said:

Welding is probably difficult or even impossible, since it's cast aluminum...

You have absolutely no idea what you are talking about.