Northern Mexico – 8 Days: 24 Feb – 3 Mar 2022

[TenereTragic700]

Part 1 of 5

 

Preparation

Vince (VA) T700 (author)

Dan (IL) DRZ400

Thom (ID) 690 Enduro

 

After agreeing a window we could do 10 days in Mexico we started doing some more serious research and zoom calls to share screens with route planning.

Purchased the E32 map - may not have been necessary.

Assistance/ advice from Mitch (advrider stormdog)

The usual screwing around with Garmin for me, Thom and Dan were using Gaia.

 

I used MexPro for vehicle insurance in Mexico, I was referred to them by Progressive.

I used Ripcord for medical and evacuation insurance.

Do your research there are plenty of other providers, like medijet for evacuation and many for vehicle insurance.

 

Our original plan was 10 days of riding in Mexico.

 

I swung through IL collected Dan - 3 days VA to AZ

 

Tom 2 days ID to AZ

 

Day 0

Jonquil Hotel Bisbee, AZ.

Great little place.  Sterling and Eva.

Very knowledgeable adventure riding Mexico / world. 

Lovely people.

Stayed overnight.

Car and trailer storage there for 8 days while we were in Mexico.  Donation to one of their projects for this service.

Plenty of lodging options at Douglas as well.

Note there is a crossing point near Bisbee, but they do not do the full service stuff we needed, immigration and temporary vehicle import.

We chose Douglas on advice off ADVRider.  Quieter spot.

 

Eight days of riding in Mexico, actual 1,394 miles, averaged 22 mph.

 

Day 1 – 24 Feb:

0915 - 1615 (no lunch stop)

Bisbee to Huasabas.  162 miles total, about 40 of which were dirt.

30f / 73f.  Snow on the bikes in Bisbee - did not plan that.

 

22 miles, Bisbee to border Douglas/Agua Prieta

 

Agua Prieta crossing - 1 hour at the border. 

Drive through the US side (vehicle photo only), through the Mex barrier then turn right and and right again into the car park behind the Mexican immigration building.

Park get tourist visa, free for 7 days, $38 for us as we planned for 10 days and needed to buy a 6 month.  Credit Card.

Copier station to get copies $1 - passport, rego, license.    USD.

Could have purchased vehicle liability insurance here as well.

 

Then to Temporary Vehicle Import.

 

Provided the paperwork to the Temporary Import processing person.  $400 charge on cc until vehicle departs Mexico.  This is to ensure you do not sell the vehicle without paying import duty on it.  Charge is dependent on the value of your vehicle.  They looked up values by VIN.

All in a small service office.

Not busy but slow.

One other bike group of seven, organized tour out of Oklahoma, two guides and five customers.

 

Only about 40 miles of fast well graded dirt today in the total.   Through copper mine via Hidalgo to Huasabas. Multiple mine company check points, state you are going to Hidalgo (vicinity Oputo) and they let us through.   Other roads were average two lane black top, plenty of curves once off the main road south out of Agua Prieta (Route 17)

 

Hotel Rios, Huasabas $65 total for three very basic rooms, each with a toilet / shower.  Shower heads optional!  Oscar and Maria.  If you have no where else ....  No wifi.

Consider Moctezuma.

Dinner one restaurant at gas station. Average.  $20 for the three of us.

Self help for breakfast – we had coffee and cookies.

 

People very willing to help.

Credit card for fuel Huasabas, and at the store.  Should have picked up peso.

 

ATT and Verizon, voice/text/data.  Where there was service.

 

Maintenance.  One of the group lost a brake caliper bolt.  I had a 8mm bolt to replace.  Have been carrying that bolt in my tool roll for more than 15+ years.  Happy it found a permanent home.

 

Good day and easy start to riding Mex.  Plenty of scenery.

 

 

 

 

[TenereTragic700]

Part 2 of 5:

 

Day 2 – 25 Feb:

0815 / 1530 (no lunch stop)

Huasabas to Sahuaripa

152 miles, 50 were dirt, the rest were twisty black top

46f / 73f.

 

Commenced heading south out of the village to see if we could cut across to the road to Moctezuma.  After 25 miles on challenging tracks (for me) on dry river beds, we turned back as it became clear the trail was getting less and less traveled.  That 50 mile excursion (out and back) took 4 hours.  Terrific scenery and a fun excursion.  The track was partially in a dry river bed and the T700 was a handful in the deep gravel.

 

Once back in Huasabas we picked up 14 to Moctezuma and then south to Shuaripa.  That black top road was very twisty (endless curves) and scenic.

 

Hotel Alameda, Suhairipa.  Very good.  $30 a night per room.  No credit cards, accepted USD.  Wifi.  Friday night party in the hotel!  Workers in transit.

 

Dinner at local family restaurant recommended by hotel.  Very good.

Fuel in town, credit card.

 

Modifying Day 3 ride to take in balance of Day 2 missed and then try to get to Moris (half way point of the planned day 3).

Edited March 6, 2022 by TenereTragic700

[TenereTragic700]

Day 3 – 26 Feb:

0715 - 1445 (no stop for lunch)

Sahuaripa to Moris - outstanding day for me.

135 miles. 

45f / 82f.

 

Mechanical.  One of the trio left his park light on overnight. We could have jumped with a booster we were carrying, but decided to give it a push and clutch / bump start it.  Both Thom and Dan have Rekluse clutches, so that had to be adjusted out.  If you are unaware, Rekluse clutches freewheel in the over run, no engine braking, therefore no ability to bump start unless the free play in the clutch is adjusted.

So that pushing warmed us all up on a cool morning!

 

Commenced south on 20 for 10 miles.

70 total to Yecora from the morning start.

Turn East at Arivechi for 60 miles of dirt, big elevation changes and great road.  ADV / dual sport not challenging but spectacular.

22 miles Yecora to Maicoba very good black top.

Maicoba to Moris:  40 miles easy fast dirt roads.  Drop off the mountains into Moris last 6 miles about 3000 feet elevation change.  Stunning views.

Hotel Las Palmas.  $35 for two rooms.  Speak to Edwardo.  We got the hotel the night before to call for us. +55 33 1294 9187.  No wifi.

Fuel in town was roadside, not a formal gas station as such.

Edwardo (hotel owner son) changed USD to local for us. 

Did laundry.

Dinner 100 yards down the road.  Very good, $15 for the three of us with a couple of beers.

Go down town.  Also hotel Los Arcos in town looked more modern.  We saw that on the drive out the next day.  Consider.

A top day.

Edited March 6, 2022 by TenereTragic700

[TenereTragic700]

Part 3 of 5

 

Day 4 – 27 Feb:

0700 / 1500 (no lunch stop)

Moris to Batopilas.

46f / 92f. 

Much of the day at elevation and very good temp.  Descend into Batopilis is when it got hot.

205 miles.  58 dirt to Cahuisori, then east on 16.

From 2,000’ at Moris over the mountains and through an open cut mine.  Good ADV / dual sport.

Balance hard top.  Via  Caruisori, San Juanto and Creel.  Endless curves and switch backs.  A ton of fun.

Descending into Batopilis spectacular.  This road now paved but with many rock falls and single paths through the rocks and boulders.  Much of the day above 7000.  8555 max. 

Very nice Hotel Juanita.  mex500 a room each.  $25.

Carolina restaurant very good.   Beautiful little town.

No wifi we could get to work.  Good cell coverage.

Another motorcycle group here.

Cautionary note.  This was the same ADV training and tour company we saw at the border.  One of their paying customers had part of her luggage foul her rear wheel causing a crash, broken collarbone.  Her evacuation insurance had her home to the US within 24 hours - note this is how we got the story, not first hand. 

Buy the insurance.

 

Plenty of fuel options on the black top, fuel in Batopilas out of 10 liter water jugs.

We hit up the fuel guy to change some of our dollars to peso $200 = 4000 peso (Feb 2022)

Edited March 8, 2022 by TenereTragic700

[TenereTragic700]

Day 5 – 28 Feb:

0710 / 1530 (45 min lunch today).

Batopilas to Urique to Temoris. 

45f / 90f

105 miles with about 7 hours in the saddle.

All but 10 miles dirt.

 

Climb out of Batopilis over the moutains to Urique was more challenging and spectacular.  That was 46 miles - 4 hours.  Running through the pine groves at about 7000 feet was great.  Run down into Urique very good as well.

Lots of rocks.

Lunch Urique, Mama Tita was terrific.  You like meat, this is what you are getting. Fresh OJ here was great!

 

Climb out of Urique to Cerocahui was stunning as well.  Fantastic views first 12 miles going up.

 

Cerocahui to Temoris was so so, patches of deep bull dust, just another dirt road.

 

Temoris hotel.  Hotel Haciendo San Pablo.  Wifi.  On request.  AC, though not needed.  Good.  550 peso so $27 each room.

 

Dinner across the road from hotel - another good meal.  $25 for the three of us with beers.

[TenereTragic700]

Part 4 of 5

 

Day 6 – 1 Mar:

0715 / 1600 (no lunch stop)

Temoris to Uruachi

45f / 88f

128 mile all dirt about 7.5 hours in the saddle.

 

Maintenance:  Stopped 10 miles in, lose throttle cable.  45 min fix. 

 

20 minute lunch stop trail side.

Temoris to Chínipas de Almada 32 miles wide graded dirt went through a large open cut mine with mine traffic.

Climb out of Chinipas about 15 miles, was super fun in a river bed and then climb out.  Climb out / up was hard ADV / medium dual sport.

Entire day was challenging and great.

Route would be equivalent of expert ADV on BDR.

Uraichi, the grittier town we have been to.

Hotel Don Lalos a bit sketchy but clean enough.  350 a room/$17.50.  Water turned on and off on a schedule.

Wifi intermittent.  No cell service.

Fuel was kerb side from an overhead tank.  36 litres for the three bikes.  So we each burned about 3 gals on the day for this 128 miles.

Dinner at adjacent restaurant.  Very good.  $26 for the three of us with beers.

No credit cards at lodging, dinner or fuel, paid USD.

Fuel guy also converted USD to Pesos for us.

 

Tired of the center stand banging on the stop every time we went over a bump – Zip ties!

 

Note I cannot depict this route in Google Maps – Northwest and west out of Temoris to Chinipas and then to Uruachi.

Edited March 8, 2022 by TenereTragic700

[TenereTragic700]

Day 7 – 2 Mar:

Day 6 had us one day ahead of the original plan and that plan had us working northeast towards the border.  The original plan also had us on lots of black top heading north so we modified the original plan.

 

Uruachi to Guerrero.

0710 / 1630 (no lunch stop)

43f / 76f

154 miles.  40 of which were dirt and took 4-5 hours.  So about 8.5 hours in the saddle.  15 min snack on the trail.

Climb out of Uruachi from 2000 ft to 8300 ft in about 21 miles. Temp went down to 30s at elevation and we stopped for more layers.

Route was black top and we expected dirt. 

At El Perico on route 16 we attempted to go west over the mountains to 16N vicinity Entronque Concheno Lliantos.

We got about half way and had to turn back.  The route was there but there were so many logging tracks it was hard to distinguish the route and we got into terrain above my skills on the T700.  A lot of fun. Probably 3.5 hours in there for 20 miles total.

A friendly logger attempted to explain the route but we were unable to understand the description.

Attempted another excursion which was a loop west of 16 just south of La Ceuva Dal Padre and would have come back onto 16 further north.  That was an interesting road with creek crossings but we were getting deeper and deeper into private property.  A very nice ranch actually.

Once we started back tracking we met the property owner and it was possible to do what we planned, but he needed to unlock a gate.  Very generous.

We were running out of day and doubled back.

Despite not getting through on these two excursions, they were very enjoyable and a distraction from the black top.

Both excursions based on the E32 map.

 

Overnight Guerrero, Hotel Plaza, 450 / $25 a room - very average.  Friendly owner.

"I have had colder showers, but not many."

 

Reasonable dinner at La Cava on the square.  They offered us apple pie and ice cream, which was very good.   This area is farmland on a plateau above 6000 feet and we saw apple orchards, so I guess apple pie may be a thing here.

Good cell coverage.

 

Maintenance:  On one of the excursions on a creek crossing, I whacked the underside of the bike pretty hard, smashing the side stand safety lock out switch.  We cut the wires to the side stand and bypassed the switch.  On our way again.  Probably 30 mins getting the bike out of the crossing and repairing.

The Yamaha OEM optional skid plate does not extend to cover the side stand switch.  Will bypass that permanently when I get home.

[TenereTragic700]

Day 8 – 3 Mar:

0700 / 1700

Guerrero to Bisbee

368 miles.

We expected to do 90 miles of dirt to Nuevo Casa Grande from Matchic.

The dirt out of Matachic was on well-developed logging toads and very fast.  The dirt lasted 41miles and then went to good black top to Casa Grande. 

On the ride to Matchic we came along a couple of groups of security forces (more than just police).  Well equipped and armed, armored SUV.  One group of four vehicles and 10 officers stopped were we were taking a break.  Very polite, and eeking details out of us about what we had been up to.  There was some activity/operation going on, not sure what.

 

Based on the good time we made (less dirt than expected) and impending weather (high wind warning) we decided to head for the border.

Route 10 and route 2 to the border was not fun.  Heavy vehicles, two lanes with an unofficial passing lane in the middle.

Lots of fast / dangerous drivers.

Came along a pickup / semi head on.  Same pick up had flown by us.  We drove between the carnage and continued on.

 

At the border back to the same Mexican Immigration office.  To immigration first, then to Temporary Import service window.  Attendant came out and checked VINs then issued refund of our deposit from 8 days previous.

 

Note that they held $476 against my credit card on entry to Mexico and refunded $404.   I am guessing there was a fee with the temporary import of the vehicle.

 

22 mile ride from border post to Bisbee, only rain for the week.

 

Back at Bisbee, packed up the DRZ and Tenere and commenced the drive east.

Edited March 8, 2022 by TenereTragic700

[TenereTragic700]

Part 5 of 5

 

Budget planning:

Accommodation:  $30 a night.  Note, many rooms have two beds so you could easily double up

Meals: $8-10 each for a sit down dinner with two beers.  We mostly only ate dinners.  Breakfast for us was coffee and snacks purchased the night before.

For snacks on the road and 3 liters of water per day, plan on $5 (we purchased the evening before).

Fuel: $4 a gallon (Feb 2022 prices).  I never used more than 3 gallons a day.  We refueled all bikes together to avoid delays / multiple transactions.

Vehicle insurance:  $70 (liability) to $230 (comprehensive).  You may be able to get cheaper at the border.

Evacuation insurance:  ripcord was $240 for 12 days.

 

We lost track of who paid what, as we did all purchases as one - fuel, lodging, markets, and restaurants.   Thom had the great idea that if we did this again we would all put $500 each into a pot and have one "banker" pay for all.  Top up as needed.

 

What I would change.

Drop emergency camp gear - more than 1/3 of what I was carrying.  Keep stove for coffee.  Bring decent instant coffee.

Lighten up tool roll - heaviest thing I pack by far.

Down liner?  Not fleece.  I also had my heated liner which I use a lot on the road riding I do.  Temperature swings from 30s in the mornings to 90s takes some layering.

Use Gaia, and E32?  Learn to use Gaia.  I was using a Garmin XT.

Smaller bike to explore tracks!  Thom Enduro.  Dan DRZ – great machines.

 

Security.

No issues.  People great.  Did not encounter any Free Enterprise people guarding their turf.

 

 

Bike comments (T700)

Overall very good for intended use.  Note I have a separate dirt bike and a road bike, so I am talking specific ADV riding.

Can't compete with me on it with the 690 Enduro or DRZ400, I was traveling with, on more difficult trails.

Stronger springs on the center stand - bangs around on bumps.  In fact, remove the center stand.

Bypass side stand safety switch.

Go from 85nm AdventureSpec (AS) to 95nm spring on shock.

Consider the Yamaha toolbox, though large it is low and forward where it bolts to the skid plate.

Motoz tires - glad I had for the dirt/rocks.  Wear on the rear was significant noting it did a lot of spinning on rocks.  It was new for this trip and is more than 50% worn after 1400 miles.

Tram track on the black top.

HD tubes!  This was a rocky trip.

 

 

Happy with Adventure Spec up, pannier and top rack. 

Kriega 2 x 18 liters:

-          Right: camping gear light:  sleeping bag, bivvy bag, ground sheet, tent fly/tarp.

-          Left:  tool roll, two tubes, tire spoons, med kit, a couple of dehydrated meals, tire pump, wet weathers, heated jacket liner, stove.

 

Top bag:  I lived out of the 30l (Kriega):  Personal stuff, clothes, toiletries

 

Gear:

Boots, very good:  Forma Adventure

Pants 12 yo BMW Enduro, still love em.

Old jacket I mostly used on road riding that has lots of protection.  Stick with it.  Not that suitable, but I do not want to buy more gear!

All hot gear

Helmet Happy enough:  Scorpion EXO AT950

Cardo, went to this as the others were using. 

I use sena on the road, did not see any benefits of Cardo over Sena.  Have 10 years experience with sena

Garmin xt.  Good enough.  Need to learn and use Gaia.

InReach mini.  Good back and safety peace of mind. Used a couple of times to send messages home when no other means.

Ripcord evac insurance - did not test it.

Mexpro - vehicle insurance, did not test it.

 

Thom and Dan using Trail Tech Voyager 2 with buddy track, so they could see each other on the move on the map.  With me in the middle and Thom leading it allowed us to spread out in the dust with confidence everyone was ok.  A nice set up.

 

Scenery and opportunity to visit somewhere I had not been was terrific. 

 

Finally, very fortunate to be able to travel with two low maintenance buddies.  Plenty of laughs.

 

On a few occasions with Thom in the lead and scouting:

Me:  Do you think we can get up that?

Thom:  We can, but you are not going to like it.

 

Next winter Baja and camping!

[Redbikejohn]

Nice   more pics next time

[Hollybrook]

Sounds like a great trip! 

[Hibobb]

@TenereTragic700 Nice!!! Stories, Maps, Pictures... very well done, Thank You!

[DT675]

Excellent adventure!  

[Landshark]

Very moving.  Thanks for sharing your memories with that ride report.  Very thorough report, great pics and advice.  Love it. 

[TenereTragic700]

Thanks for the comments.

We (the three of us) tried to take detailed notes to help others that might want to do the same.

Terrific place to visit.

Keep well.

[Jesse]

Looks great, I want to do a BAJA trip in MAY. Thanks for the write up and

information. 

 

Edited March 9, 2022 by Jesse

[TenereTragic700]

@Jesse rules for taking vehicles into Baja are more relaxed, I believe you do not need the temporary vehicle import - but you need to check.  Have fun.