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Valve adjustment


WingVetteStrom

Question

Do I have this right?   Adjusting the valves requires engine removal?

Strongly considering getting on a list for a T700, but this really caught my attention.

Please tell me I'm wrong.

 

Thanks

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Latin America Adventure Biker and Goldwinger

Corvette Race Track Junkie.  And oh ya, Medicare recipient.

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@Samm, Nice!! Stuff like this is why I am on this site! Thank You....

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We are all tattooed in our cradles with the beliefs of our tribe

~Oliver Wendell Holmes~

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@Samm Did you buy a valve shim kit off the internet (if so, link please) or are you buying individual shims from the dealer? I have read that some kits may not fill a guys need.

We are all tattooed in our cradles with the beliefs of our tribe

~Oliver Wendell Holmes~

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Our shims are 7.48mm diameter. I ordered this kit because I like to have spares for future use:

 

https://www.amazon.ca/Hot-Cams-HCSHIM01-Shim-Kit/dp/B000UKM6LG/ref=asc_df_B000UKM6LG/?tag=googleshopc0c-20&linkCode=df0&hvadid=292970376231&hvpos=&hvnetw=g&hvrand=367044826301634645&hvpone=&hvptwo=&hvqmt=&hvdev=c&hvdvcmdl=&hvlocint=&hvlocphy=9104992&hvtargid=pla-627406432752&psc=1

 

The kit comes in handy if you're a dumbass like I am and do your math wrong. After checking my gaps after the initial adjustment I realized I added instead of subtracted and actually tightened my clearances. Pulled the cams, buckets, and shims back out and did the walk of shame back to the shim kit...  

 

However you could save a bit of money and ensure you get the right number of the right size shims by checking your clearances, pulling out the existing shims, and doing the math (properly) to find out exactly what shims you need. There's a good chance you'll need more than 3 of one size shim (the kit supplies only 3 of each size) if Yamaha put in all the same sized shims and your valves have worn somewhat evenly. You can buy 5 packs of shims all one size all over the internet:

 

https://fortnine.ca/en/moose-7-48mm-valve-shim

 

And just to confirm, I was able to get the valve cover back on without removing engine bolts. Was it tight? Yes. But if you go slow, use the frame dent, push up against your wiring harness, and try a couple different approach angles, you will get it.

Edited by Samm
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@Samm, once again... Thank you!

 

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We are all tattooed in our cradles with the beliefs of our tribe

~Oliver Wendell Holmes~

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On 8/14/2022 at 3:57 AM, Samm said:

I took my valve cover off today and was able to remove it without messing with any engine mounting bolts. Rad comes out, brake line mounting bolt on right side comes out, disconnect all right side electrical connectors and remove the plastic bracket that they sit on. There are a few other bits as well just can’t remember at the moment…
 

After all that I still thought it was going to be impossible to pull the cover off however on the right side there is a depression in the tubular frame. If you get the corner of the cover into that hollow it gives you just enough wiggle room to sneak the cover off. There is no dent in the left side frame so I can only assume Yamaha designed that for this reason alone. Still tight but doable, no damage to my gasket.

 

Most valves are at the lower limit and three of my exhaust valves are too tight so I’ll be shimming tomorrow - 33000ish km.
 

 

27235EA8-2F7F-43E8-8AB1-0E6ACD90CAB7.jpeg



Well done Sir !

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28 minutes ago, thruster said:

Fyi

Just had the dealer do my valves at 22000 and they were out of spec. 

How much did they charge?

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44 minutes ago, thruster said:

 

20230811_125628.jpg

Well they did replace your spark plugs and coolant.. OUCH. 

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Only $500 for valves and plugs? That's a great deal.

 

I am SURE that most Bay Area California dealers will charge more for this. Most dealers charge $350 for a basic service which is an oil change and chain lube.

 

 

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13 hours ago, Hogan said:

I noticed a few people saying their valves were 'in spec' and didn't need adjusting.

Be aware that you have to account for the wear that will occur between now and the next check. And the fact that the clearance will tighten with heat.

It's considered good form to put all valves back to the upper limit of the spec, just as if you would do if working on a screw adjustment type rocker.

A professional shop shouldn't charge you for each shim (8 shims on a 2cylinder, or 16 on a 4 cylinder would be expensive) as they will not only have a stock of new shims, but also shims collected from other jobs that can be reused.

 

Also if you are going to buy the shim kits, get them off aliexpress. You will save a lot of money.

The reality is Hot Cams and all the other resellers are just buying these kits off aliexpress in bulk and then sticking their own sticker on it.

If you run out of the one size, just use the next closest size. The clearance doesn't have to be exact.

 

I'll disagree here. If the valves are in spec when checked it means they are good to go until the next required check.  If that wasn't the case the service manuals would be written a lot different than they are today.

Edited by Simmons1
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Tenere 700 / Africa Twin / Goldwing / Super Tenere / WR250R / TDR 250 / GS1000S / GT750 / H2 750

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On 8/14/2022 at 2:57 AM, Samm said:

I took my valve cover off today and was able to remove it without messing with any engine mounting bolts. Rad comes out, brake line mounting bolt on right side comes out, disconnect all right side electrical connectors and remove the plastic bracket that they sit on. There are a few other bits as well just can’t remember at the moment…
 

After all that I still thought it was going to be impossible to pull the cover off however on the right side there is a depression in the tubular frame. If you get the corner of the cover into that hollow it gives you just enough wiggle room to sneak the cover off. There is no dent in the left side frame so I can only assume Yamaha designed that for this reason alone. Still tight but doable, no damage to my gasket.

 

Most valves are at the lower limit and three of my exhaust valves are too tight so I’ll be shimming tomorrow - 33000ish km.
 

 

27235EA8-2F7F-43E8-8AB1-0E6ACD90CAB7.jpeg

What about the ABS pump, was enough to just loosen it and wiggle it around ?

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3 hours ago, Prestone said:

What about the ABS pump, was enough to just loosen it and wiggle it around ?

I can’t remember, it was a while back…but I don’t recall loosening the ABS pump 

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Did mine on this Easter-weekend. 37.000 km and six out of eight were out of specs.

I think that the recommended service interval, 40.000 km, is way too long. Going to check mine every 20.000 km's from now on.

While doing the check, I realized that when You service the  forks at the same time, you get the forks out of the way and you have more room to work.

And no need to crouch in akward positions.

Did not tilt the engine. Removed all fairings, radiator and tank. Then I moved the main wire harness to the left side of the frame.

This gave enough room to get the valve cover 'easily' out.

image.png.a0bb28cd8834283e4012a366d8e2b240.png

 

No need for any special tools. If you have good tools, patience and some common sense, you are good to go!

Have the service manual at hand and take a lot of pictures, so that you get the wires back to their original positions.

And the one black female connector that is seems to be missing it's male connector, is for the radiator fan....

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"Eternally, unavoidably, eventually, all paths will lead to the cemetery." Sentenced

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On 8/11/2023 at 8:58 PM, thruster said:

 

20230811_125628.jpg

Is that the actual clearance range? It appears yours were bang on if so. 

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The work order says exhaust valves out of spec.  Not sure what the range is but I trust there work.

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6 hours ago, thruster said:

The work order says exhaust valves out of spec.  Not sure what the range is but I trust there work.

Yeah, reading it maybe 6 thou and 10 though was what they set it to, in the middle of the range, not what they found  👍

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13 hours ago, Totti said:

Did mine on this Easter-weekend. 37.000 km and six out of eight were out of specs.

I think that the recommended service interval, 40.000 km, is way too long. Going to check mine every 20.000 km's from now on.

While doing the check, I realized that when You service the  forks at the same time, you get the forks out of the way and you have more room to work.

And no need to crouch in akward positions.

Did not tilt the engine. Removed all fairings, radiator and tank. Then I moved the main wire harness to the left side of the frame.

This gave enough room to get the valve cover 'easily' out.

image.png.a0bb28cd8834283e4012a366d8e2b240.png

 

No need for any special tools. If you have good tools, patience and some common sense, you are good to go!

Have the service manual at hand and take a lot of pictures, so that you get the wires back to their original positions.

And the one black female connector that is seems to be missing it's male connector, is for the radiator fan....

If you ever have to unscrew the exhaust replace the studs, nuts and washers with stainless components.

Nuts and studs you'll get at a local hardware shop. For the washers I use self locking ones from Nord-Lock everywhere on the bike where it makes sense.

 

 

Stainless_A2.jpg

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@Samm and @Totti thanks for info re valve clearance.  The Yamaha CP3 (I have a Tracer with 30k miles) seems to have tight exhaust valves at the first check (at least) and I was wondering if the CP2 was going to be similar.  Have 17k miles on my T7 so I am guessing a valve check before any big trips is in order.  

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Reference posted how to video.

 

 

 

"Men do not quit playing because they grow old, they grow old because they quit playing" Oliver Wendell Holmes - Mods - HDB handguards, Camel-ADV Gut guard, 1 finger clutch, The Fix pedal & Rally pipe, RR side/tail rack, RR 90nm spring & Headlight guard, Rally seat, OEM heated grips- stablemate Beta 520RS

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Question to the collective here to help confirm the T7 valve shim diameter.  Noted previously in this thread, the T7 uses 7.48 mm shims with  this kit linked.  Not doubting @Samm, but I haven't been able to confirm the 7.48 mm shim diameter.   The T7 shop manual on pg. 2-3 doesn't list it and when I search mc parts websites, plugging in my 2021 T7 specs into the application,  it keeps coming up as the 7.48 mm size doesn't fit. 

Example: 


Takes the hassle out of adjusting your own valves and gives you peace of mind knowing the job is done right.

 

 

Also, regarding the other needed parts such as a valve cover gasket, bolt rubber gaskets, timing mark brass gasket, etc... does anyone know of a kit that contains all of this as referenced in the video above or are we relegated to picking out the needed parts from a site such as this?

 


Shop online for OEM Cylinder Head parts that fit your 2021 Yamaha TENERE 700 (XTZ7MCW), search all our OEM Parts or call at (231)737-4542

 

 

 

 

 

"Men do not quit playing because they grow old, they grow old because they quit playing" Oliver Wendell Holmes - Mods - HDB handguards, Camel-ADV Gut guard, 1 finger clutch, The Fix pedal & Rally pipe, RR side/tail rack, RR 90nm spring & Headlight guard, Rally seat, OEM heated grips- stablemate Beta 520RS

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On 8/26/2023 at 5:58 AM, Simmons1 said:

I'll disagree here. If the valves are in spec when checked it means they are good to go until the next required check.  If that wasn't the case the service manuals would be written a lot different than they are today.

 

I agree with you. 

But if he likes doing extra work for nothing, have fun. 

Or if he pays someone to do it, don't cry if you open a can of worms to get the extra possibility that it'll get screwed up.

2021 Yamaha Tenere 700
2019 Husqvarna TE 250i
2018 Husqy/Oberon/JD FE 450
 
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5 hours ago, AZJW said:

Question to the collective here to help confirm the T7 valve shim diameter.  Noted previously in this thread, the T7 uses 7.48 mm shims with  this kit linked.  Not doubting @Samm, but I haven't been able to confirm the 7.48 mm shim diameter.   The T7 shop manual on pg. 2-3 doesn't list it and when I search mc parts websites, plugging in my 2021 T7 specs into the application,  it keeps coming up as the 7.48 mm size doesn't fit. 

Example: 


Takes the hassle out of adjusting your own valves and gives you peace of mind knowing the job is done right.

 

 

Also, regarding the other needed parts such as a valve cover gasket, bolt rubber gaskets, timing mark brass gasket, etc... does anyone know of a kit that contains all of this as referenced in the video above or are we relegated to picking out the needed parts from a site such as this?

 


Shop online for OEM Cylinder Head parts that fit your 2021 Yamaha TENERE 700 (XTZ7MCW), search all our OEM Parts or call at (231)737-4542

 

 

For any engine related parts if a website fitment guide doesn’t fish properly for me I plug in any year MT07 to find what I need. Hasn’t let me down yet. Google will tell you the MT07 uses 7.48mm shims so I moved forward with that info.
 

If anyone knows of any changes to the CP2 engine over its use in the Fz07, MT07, or T7, please let us all know. 

 

As for a kit for seals/washers, I’ve done this twice and reused everything and nothing leaks. I would’t waste your money replacing anything unless you muck something up. 

Edited by Samm
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