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Stripped bolt at base of rear shock


mrboni
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Hi Tenere heads

 

 While changing a rear tube I decided to grease the suspension linkage parts, and while replacing the bolt at the bottom of the shock i seem to have stripped the thread even though I was using a torque wrench. 
 

The nut now slips and i can’t remove it. Any idea how i might get it off and where to buy a new nut and bolt?

 

 Thanks!

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@mrboni Depending on your resources, i.e. tools available ( cutoff wheel etc.) I think I'd try a nut splitter. Good luck and let us know how it goes. As far as a source for a replacement, you don't list your location, but oem or possibly McMaster Carr is a good source. 

 

 

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McMaster-Carr is the complete source for your plant with over 595,000 products. 98% of products ordered ship from stock and deliver same or next day.

 

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"Men do not quit playing because they grow old, they grow old because they quit playing" Oliver Wendell Holmes - Mods - HDB handguards, Camel-ADV Gut guard, 1 finger clutch, The Fix pedal & Rally pipe, RR side/tail rack, RR 90nm spring & Headlight guard, Rally seat, OEM heated grips- stablemate Beta 520RS

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Wow! This would be a VERY rare occurrence to strip this nut/bolt combo. That being said, you have great access to it for repairs. I don't know your skill or tool set, but I would first use a cutoff wheel of some sort. Preferably on a Die Grinder (Dremel tool or similar) with a cut off wheel. You should also be able to get a 4.5" angle grinder with a suitable cut off (NOT grinding) wheel in there as well. Cut as close to the base flange of the nut as possible as usually the ID at the base flange is bigger and doesn't have threads in that area. Cut the nut and the bolt. The nut splitter may get the main part of the nut split such that it will be loose on the bolt, but that flange WILL cause you problems. 

Another method would be to use a die grinder (Dremel tool or similar) with a small diameter carbide burr - 1/8"-3/16" diameter and grind a groove in the nut parallel to the bolt axis on opposite sides of the nut and split the nut completely in 2. This WILL damage the bolt as well, but you will bet it off.

In either of the above methods, remember to keep your work cool. Grinding in this area will induce heat into the bolt, which will transfer to the linkage and possibly damage the bearing seal in the rocker link.

Good luck!!

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I think I have Yamaha disease...

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Use a dremel with a cut off wheel.  Take your time. Cut off the nut.  Won’t take long but you will go through several cut off wheels 👍

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Try this first.  Lock a vice grip onto the nut heavy enough to hold the nut but not crush it against the threads.  Then attach a socket or wrench to the bolt and pull hard while turning the nut with the grip or turning the bolt with the wrench.  It may grab and start off.  

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Thread definitely stripped or just nut rounded off? If just rounded, use next sized down/ imperial socket, hammer on and remove as normal. Some sockets out there are great and grip perfectly. If it’s stripped, get a power tool on the socket while pulling the bolt rearward with grips. 

095B51C0-BF8B-43F3-8E9B-9CEF1063B1EA.jpeg

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27 minutes ago, Landshark said:

Try this first.  Lock a vice grip onto the nut heavy enough to hold the nut but not crush it against the threads.  Then attach a socket or wrench to the bolt and pull hard while turning the nut with the grip or turning the bolt with the wrench.  It may grab and start off.  

What he said while I was getting my Irwin sockets photo 😂

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First thing I would do is make damn sure the bolt isn’t spinning (you have to correct size wrench on the other side),  we all have brain farts from time to time. 
 

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@mpatch has a good advice. I'd also like to add that bolt doesn't look bad at all. You should be able to open it with good quality 6 point socket (opposed to 12 point socket).

 

Sometimes cheap chinese tools have so much play in them that even if you have a "correct" size tool, tolerances are so big that you basically have effective bolt lathe in your hands. Many bolts and nuts have been absolutely destroyed with bad tools. With good quality tools you should have very little play on a bolt. 

Edited by witgen
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Hi mrboni, have you just rounded off the flats on the nut? btw I'm in Bristol too 

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Thanks everyone - a lot of suggestions!

 

Wise  to suggest checking the bolt wasn't spinning - I wouldn't put this past me.  Sadly it's not.  Nor is either side rounded off.    Yes I was very surprised it stripped.  Unless something is way off with my torque wrench.  Didn't think I had the strength anyway 😂

 

I'm going to try (in order) pull and twist with mole grips  /  nut splitter  /  dremel

 

The local dealer has some of the nuts in stock but bolts are on order, so with any luck the bolt will have survived

 

 

Appreciate the advices

 

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This happened to me as well when I changed out the spring on my rear shock using a calibrated torque wrench… sad to see hardware made of cheese on my bike

 

Edited by Lookiel
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1 hour ago, Lookiel said:

This happened to me as well when I changed out the spring on my rear shock using a calibrated torque wrench… sad to see hardware made of cheese on my bike

 

Glad to know it's not just me!

 

Was it the exact same bolt, at the bottom of the shock?  

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Nut has been split!

 

Was a little tricky as I couldn't split the flange (splitter would slip off) but one the nut was in a bad way I could unthread it

 

Thanks for all the help

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12 hours ago, mpatch said:

Were you able to tell if it was the nut or the bolt that stripped? 

 

Looks like it was the bolt

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I did this very same thing this morning. The threads on the nut were stripped, not allowing it to come off normally. I solved it by holding the bolt head end static, with a spanner, while tightly gripping the nut end with long nose pliers and pulling it backward, continually, while unscrewing it. The nut metal is soft and not up to the job. I had just greased the sleeves and applied the correct torque.

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2 hours ago, Piobaire said:

I did this very same thing this morning. The threads on the nut were stripped, not allowing it to come off normally. I solved it by holding the bolt head end static, with a spanner, while tightly gripping the nut end with long nose pliers and pulling it backward, continually, while unscrewing it. The nut metal is soft and not up to the job. I had just greased the sleeves and applied the correct torque.

Are you going to replace it with the same OEM part?

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Not sure, is the short answer. I don't fancy trusting an inferior component in a crucial part of the bike. My friend is the local dealer, do I'll ask him about any warranty issue, otherwise, I'll buy a quality, aftermarket bolt.

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5 hours ago, Piobaire said:

Not sure, is the short answer. I don't fancy trusting an inferior component in a crucial part of the bike. My friend is the local dealer, do I'll ask him about any warranty issue, otherwise, I'll buy a quality, aftermarket bolt.

 

I have undone, and torqued up, several times without an issue

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What is the torque spec for this bolt? If I remember correctly this is quite regular DIN grade 8.8 M10 bolt.  Just wondering if the factory spec on torque is bit on a high side. 

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10 minutes ago, witgen said:

What is the torque spec for this bolt? If I remember correctly this is quite regular DIN grade 8.8 M10 bolt.  Just wondering if the factory spec on torque is bit on a high side. 

image.png.cf9f1dde0d2a754c8b9fdf2cb72c79d1.png

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8 hours ago, Piobaire said:

Not sure, is the short answer. I don't fancy trusting an inferior component in a crucial part of the bike. My friend is the local dealer, do I'll ask him about any warranty issue, otherwise, I'll buy a quality, aftermarket bolt.

 

I'd be curious to know what he thinks

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This nut just needs to be tight enough ti not come loose.

It just prevents the bolt falling out.

There's not any force on it

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1 hour ago, Ray Ride4life said:

This nut just needs to be tight enough ti not come loose.

It just prevents the bolt falling out.

There's not any force on it

Exactly.

 

It still seems strange to me that 45 Nm would strip it. Part catalog says it's a self locking nut. It doesn't look like nyloc bolt so locking is probably done by deformation on the bolt it self. If that's the case this could explain why this is so easy to strip the threads. For some reason japanese engineers seem to be keen on these kind of bolts. Haven't that much experience with all metal lock nuts, so I don't know if there is some special technique to open these and what are absolute no-no when opening or tightening these. I'd guess getting them too tight is probably a big issue.

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