Jump to content
Yamaha Tenere 700 Forum

Handlebar risers


Recommended Posts

Can anyone tell me how much rise can be added to the T7 without running out of cable? Thanks.

Link to comment
Share on other sites

  • 4 weeks later...
Posted (edited)

Have just seen on https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=tNfJ1HaGuoo&list=PLTEFWu-71lo3js2uz04p4oajylCWUs8Pz&index=3 that the standard risers have a slight bend to the rear and reversing them can move the bars forward and provide more distance between foot pegs and bars for taller riders without adding more weight. I've just had a quick look at my bike and it looks like it won't be a simple job. Has anyone seen any how-to information on this?

Edited by luke29ermtb
Link to comment
Share on other sites

5 hours ago, luke29ermtb said:

Have just seen on https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=tNfJ1HaGuoo&list=PLTEFWu-71lo3js2uz04p4oajylCWUs8Pz&index=3 that the standard risers have a slight bend to the rear and reversing them can move the bars forward and provide more distance between foot pegs and bars for taller riders without adding more weight. I've just had a quick look at my bike and it looks like it won't be a simple job. Has anyone seen any how-to information on this?

I did it and i like it, gives me a better standing position without messing up the sitting position.
I made the change when i had the bike apart for other work. The bolts form the bottom are hard to reach but with a long extension and a universal joint you can get to it but taking the side covers off makes it a bit easier but still might make you curse sometimes.

  • Like 1
Link to comment
Share on other sites

2 minutes ago, Ray Ride4life said:

I did it and i like it, gives me a better standing position without messing up the sitting position.
I made the change when i had the bike apart for other work. The bolts form the bottom are hard to reach but with a long extension and a universal joint you can get to it but taking the side covers off makes it a bit easier but still might make you curse sometimes.

Thanks Ray. Must have been a loooooong extension. I'll go and see what I can cobble together.

Link to comment
Share on other sites

I didn't use a long extension, i just know some have done it like that.
I had the side panels off for another job made it a little easier but still no walk in the park, also not a big problem.
Bikes are just not designed to get easy acces unless it's on the factory line in that specific order.

Link to comment
Share on other sites

Posted (edited)
11 hours ago, luke29ermtb said:

Have just seen on https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=tNfJ1HaGuoo&list=PLTEFWu-71lo3js2uz04p4oajylCWUs8Pz&index=3 that the standard risers have a slight bend to the rear and reversing them can move the bars forward and provide more distance between foot pegs and bars for taller riders without adding more weight. I've just had a quick look at my bike and it looks like it won't be a simple job. Has anyone seen any how-to information on this?

If you have a centrestand I would just remove the handlebar clamps and lift and push the handlebars forward out of the way.  No need to adjust or remove any controls there is enough slack.  

They just remove the 4 upper triple clamp bolts and the steering stem nut.  Take the upper triple clamp completely off and do the swap/rotation on the bench.  

 

If you are lucky enough to have a 2nd set of bars laying around you can use them to help make sure alignment is correct when tightening the risers down.

Edited by williestreet
  • Like 1
Link to comment
Share on other sites

On 7/2/2022 at 9:46 PM, williestreet said:

If you have a centrestand I would just remove the handlebar clamps and lift and push the handlebars forward out of the way.  No need to adjust or remove any controls there is enough slack.  

They just remove the 4 upper triple clamp bolts and the steering stem nut.  Take the upper triple clamp completely off and do the swap/rotation on the bench.  

 

If you are lucky enough to have a 2nd set of bars laying around you can use them to help make sure alignment is correct when tightening the risers down.

So there's no alignment mechanism on the risers themselves or the hole they mount into? I was expecting something to stop them turning when they're tightened but I guess a set of bars will do.

Link to comment
Share on other sites

Posted (edited)
1 hour ago, luke29ermtb said:

So there's no alignment mechanism on the risers themselves or the hole they mount into? I was expecting something to stop them turning when they're tightened but I guess a set of bars will do.

The risers are connected together by an aluminum brace, so no real need for bars.    I probably shouldn't have mentioned that in my previous post.  

I guess I was remembering other bikes which don't have an aluminum brace connecting the risers together.  You will be fine.

 

Edited by williestreet
  • Like 1
Link to comment
Share on other sites

  • 3 weeks later...

A 17mm socket on a swivel connected to a long extension does the trick. Access to the nuts is made easier by turning the bars to full rotation.

 

My Barkbusters are now only about 4mm from the dash/gauge cluster on full bar rotation so that worked out well. The cables on left and right side have a tighter bend radius but still not too bad.

 

The seating position feels less cramped when I sat on it in the garage. Looking forward to riding it tomorrow to see how much difference it has really made.

Link to comment
Share on other sites

You most likely dont need them unless you are really tall like 2 meters (for T7)… 

 

  • Like 1
Link to comment
Share on other sites

Just finished the riser flipped mod...

Access to the lower cap nuts was no problem (using a long extension plus universal joint), BUT... when I pulled out the riser, one washer (located on top of the triple clamp, not the one between cap nut and triple clamp) fell out, made a soft "cling" somewhere in the bike and it was gone.

 

Knowing what can go wrong if you're panicking and hurrying, I tried to remain calm and concentrated and patient (remembering Pirsig's philosophy), systematically trying to find out where the washer did go and not making things worse.

Long story short, it wasn't in the skid, on the floor or in any other hidden spot I had been searching. About an hour after removing both side panels, it fell into my hand 😅😅😅

Still don't know where exactly it sat.

 

So take care. Haven't ridden her yet, but even in standstill it feels better when standing on the pegs. I expect a more direct reaction to steering inputs (since the bars are now closer to the steering axis).

  • Like 1
Link to comment
Share on other sites

15 hours ago, Maty said:

You most likely dont need them unless you are really tall like 2 meters (for T7)… 

 

This is one of the videos that stopped me thinking about adding after-market risers. I'm not one for adding unnecessary weight or complexity anyway. When I saw the video I mentioned above show that you could get a bit more room by just rotating the stock risers it made sense to try it. I'm 190cm tall and I do find the T7 a bit cramped, particularly when standing. If I can find some foot pegs that sit 10 - 2omm lower and about 10mm further back I'll probably try them too as the current setup seems to be for those with average sized feet and that makes shifting gears harder than it should be for me.

  • Like 1
Link to comment
Share on other sites

52 minutes ago, luke29ermtb said:

This is one of the videos that stopped me thinking about adding after-market risers. I'm not one for adding unnecessary weight or complexity anyway. When I saw the video I mentioned above show that you could get a bit more room by just rotating the stock risers it made sense to try it. I'm 190cm tall and I do find the T7 a bit cramped, particularly when standing. If I can find some foot pegs that sit 10 - 2omm lower and about 10mm further back I'll probably try them too as the current setup seems to be for those with average sized feet and that makes shifting gears harder than it should be for me.

187 cm, with quite long legs (93 cm inseam length, EU shoe size 45). I recently switched to Pivot Pegz, these make shifting a lot easier. Mounted them in the lower position, which lowers them about 8mm compared to stock and sets them back a bit as well. The pivoting action is great for switching gears!

Others of our size are very happy with Bosley pegs.

  • Like 2
Link to comment
Share on other sites

@luke29ermtb check out Bosley pegs.  I bought 30mm down, 20mm back and you can get even more.  Custom made by Radan to order and take a couple of weeks to get. 

 

 

Edited by Hollybrook
Added link
Link to comment
Share on other sites

  • 2 weeks later...
On 7/24/2022 at 1:59 PM, Tenerider said:

187 cm, with quite long legs (93 cm inseam length, EU shoe size 45). I recently switched to Pivot Pegz, these make shifting a lot easier. Mounted them in the lower position, which lowers them about 8mm compared to stock and sets them back a bit as well. The pivoting action is great for switching gears!

Others of our size are very happy with Bosley pegs.

PivotPegz installed in the lowered position. I couldn't go past an Aussie made product. They're very nicely finished and so much better than the WR450 pegs I was using but weird that they got made in Australia, sent to the US and then sent back to Australia. They're not cheap and I bet a lot of that is freight.

 

Shame the weather is so rubbish and forecast to stay that way this weekend. I still haven't been able to get out and test the new handlebar setup either. However, standing on the bike in garage suggests small adjustments in bars and pegs make a lot of difference.

  • Like 1
Link to comment
Share on other sites

On 7/24/2022 at 11:01 PM, Hollybrook said:

@luke29ermtb check out Bosley pegs.  I bought 30mm down, 20mm back and you can get even more.  Custom made by Radan to order and take a couple of weeks to get. 

 

Woah! That's a big change. Did it work well for you?

 

Link to comment
Share on other sites

I really like the Bosley pegs and the improved riding position,  both seated and standing.  That said, there are some issues that I am still dealing with in regards to the brake and shifter positions.   Once I resolve them I will report back. 

  • Like 1
Link to comment
Share on other sites

Just to follow up, the brake issue was easy to fix.  I needed to adjust the brake light switch, which was a bit fiddly but not that bad.

 

The shifter being too high has been partially remedied, but a full fix will require modifying the shift lever itself.  I used a small cutoff wheel to remove the bump on the back of the aluminum casting that the footpeg mounts to.  I wanted to remove this casting to work on it, but it supports my centerstand and indirectly the downtube that the skid plate mounts to, so using my motorcycle lift jack was also out of the question.  With the bump cut off, the shift lever travel is limited by the lower spherical link of the shift shaft hitting the aluminum casting.  Using all the travel available, the shifter is just a bit higher than I would like, making upshifts  a bit awkward .  I may just put a piece of rubber hose on it to make it thicker, but the real solution is to cut and weld the lever or move the pivot for the spherical link away from the lever's pivot.

  • Like 1
Link to comment
Share on other sites

15 hours ago, Hollybrook said:

I really like the Bosley pegs and the improved riding position,  both seated and standing.  That said, there are some issues that I am still dealing with in regards to the brake and shifter positions.   Once I resolve them I will report back. 

I'm running the Yamaha centre stand. I've yet to ride it with pegs lowered 10mm and back 3mm from stock but I might have problems with my boot rubbing on the centre stand spring on the right hand side. Time will tell.

Link to comment
Share on other sites

6 hours ago, luke29ermtb said:

I'm running the Yamaha centre stand. I've yet to ride it with pegs lowered 10mm and back 3mm from stock but I might have problems with my boot rubbing on the centre stand spring on the right hand side. Time will tell.

I have the Hepco Becker center stand.  No issues with my boots rubbing but the right peg does hit the spring mount slightly when it swings back.

  • Like 1
Link to comment
Share on other sites

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now
 Share

Our Friends

Tenere across the USA

Tenere 700 Forum. We are just Tenere 700 owners and fans

Tenere700.net is not affiliated with Yamaha Motor Co and any opinions expressed on this website are solely those of ea individual author and do not represent Yamaha Motor Co or Tenere700.net .

×
×
  • Create New...

Important Information

We have placed cookies on your device to help make this website better. You can adjust your cookie settings, otherwise we'll assume you're okay to continue.