CamelADV clutch lever

[electric_monk]

Bloody hell that makes the most amazing change to the feel of the bike.

Wish I had done this mod sooner.

 

[T7MapleLeaf]

Gets a must-buy from me too. The difference between the settings is massive too. 

 

Camel could do a subscription box and I’d buy in just to wait for my fresh package of well engineered fabrication. 

[Rider 101]

Pity it doesn't fit Yamaha crash bars

[Tenerider]

You got me. Placed an order.

[Klutch]

8 hours ago, Rider 101 said:

Pity it doesn't fit Yamaha crash bars

I fitted this by cutting the last 2 holes off the arm, let's it clear the crash bars. The first hole is still an improvement over the stock arm.

[Zero600]

Agreed! Great upgrade. I appreciate the larger friction zone in tricky sections off-road.

[Husafreak]

I may do this too, at first doing a lot of road riding I didn’t mind the clutch, but riding trails, rocky sections, and whoops,  I’m realizing the engagement is a bit short and feeling my hand starting to cramp leading to not wanting to use it and jerky throttle control. Not ideal. 
I already got the Yamaha bars but from post above and the reviews on Camel ADV’s website it sounds like even just the first hole would be an improvement.

[Zero600]

Yes, even the first position is a lot better. I’ve tried the 2nd position also and I may go back to the 1st. In the second position with my aftermarket adjustable lever moved in close where I want it, there isn’t quite enough clutch pull for smooth shifting.  So it’s a bit of a compromise but much better than OEM for me.

[Camel ADV]

14 hours ago, Rider 101 said:

Pity it doesn't fit Yamaha crash bars

 

Coming soon

[Husafreak]

Perfect! I'm in the day you release these. Too pretty for a hacksaw

[Rider 101]

51 minutes ago, Camel ADV said:

 

Coming soon

Get a bunch to Steve at Adventuremoto and my money is down 

[Tenerider]

Installed it today (using the middle hole), exactly following Cory's installation video. Set the free play (cold engine) to 3mm as recommended.

 

However, I noticed shifting is a little bit affected (rough gear changes, especially shifting down) when pulling the lever (OEM) with two fingers only. In this case the lever touches my pinky and ring finger. I removed some slack from the clutch cable, which improved it. But I have the strange feeling that the clutch doesn't engage completely in this case. I might be wrong, perhaps it's just imagination but I think the bike reacts not as direct to throttle inputs now. So I re-set it to the 3mm freeplay.

 

I finally ran some tests at home after my ride (i.e. with warm engine), putting the bike on the center stand.

It showed that even when pulling the lever so that it touches the grips (!), the rear wheel started turning (in all gears). And you could hear the distinctive "clonk" when shifting from N to 1.

Some rare times it would fully disengage, though.

 

I'm a bit confused, but I guess this would have been the same with the OEM clutch arm.

 

Could it be my clutch plates are out of alignment? Or is it just normal for multi-disk clutches and I just haven't noticed it before?

[Tenerider]

P.S.: Checked the service manual. There is no further adjustment to be made to the clutch, and I doubt that my friction plates are being worn out at 5700km (mostly onroad).

I might do some adjustments and move the cable to the first hole in the clutch arm.

 

By the way, I agree with all of you: The lighter pull and bigger friction zone are a big improvement!

[PNGL]

It definitely makes clutch modulation better. The first several rides on my bike, my hand was cramping up from trying to modulate the clutch a lot on some tighter trails. Also, there may have been a couple of stalls. 
With the Camel lever, I've had no problems, no cramps, and no stalls. It did take me a bit to get it adjusted just right because my aftermarket adjustable levers made the clutch throw a bit wonky. But now 
Edit: I used the middle hole and set my cable to allow a slight bit of wiggle at the lever when warm or cold. Just enough for a couple mm of slack before the lever feels like it's engaging anything. Works great.

Edited September 12, 2022 by PNGL

[Ray Ride4life]

I have the same problem and would like to have even shorter levers to have no interference when using 2 fingers.
For downshifting i give a little gas after pulling the clutch and shifting.
Upshifting i often do without the clutch even without a quickshifter.

[Tenerider]

I just moved the cable to the first hole. It feels much better now. Still noticeably less force required compared to stock, friction zone is a bit longer, but it feels more "sporty" than on the second hole. I prefer this, at least onroad.

Clutch disengages properly when pulling with two fingers.