Throttle Body Sync Procedure

[prowlnS10]

Tenere 700 Throttle Body Sync Procedure

 

At 12k km it was time to check my 2021 Tenere 700's throttle body sync, which I suspect is out a little, as the bike is no longer quite as smooth as it once was.  This requires some form of vacuum gauge & about 1 hour to remove body panels & tank to gain access to the throttle bodies, sync them & put it all back together....not a difficult job, just a little time consuming. 

 

Bike Specs

• 2021 Tenere 700 Canadian model (Japan Factory)
• 12, 218 km 7,591 miles
• oem original spark plugs
• valve clearance oem factory
• Guglatech Ultra 4 Air Filter + FunnellWebFilters Pre-Filter
• Chevron regular 87 RON unleaded fuel 

 

Required Tools

• #4 & #5 allen, T30 Torx, small diameter punch for push pin connectors, long needle nose pliers, small slotted screwdriver
• differential manometer or vacuum gauges - years ago I made an inexpensive & easy to make differential monometer that consists of about 6 meters or 20' of 5/16th" OD/3/16th" ID continuous clear hose filled with red tranny fluid terminating with short runs of 1/8" ID rubber vacuum hoses for better high heat characteristics & leak free fitment on the throttle body vacuum tubes connected to the clear tubing via in-line metal adapters with the left having a T fitting added to the end to connect to the primary TB & air pressure sensor, mounted to a 1.5 meter or 5' tall wood backing plate.  The long length of hose, 2 in-line connectors which act as restrictors, 1 T connector & semi-viscous tranny fluid provide ample damping to stabilize the fluid while the bike is running & prevent bounce/flutter. I used an automotive syringe to put the tranny fluid in the hose then hung the assembly up with open hose ends above it for a few hours to allow all air to escape.
• an external fan to cool the radiator during the procedure
• NOTE: the colour of bolts/fasteners on my bike may vary from yours depending on market, bike colour & year

 

 

Seat & Body Panel Removal

•  review the Yamaha Tenere 700 Service Manual instructions

 

  

 

• remove seat(s)
• remove the front side faring panels (Yamaha calls them "air scoops") using T30 torx for the 3/side silver bolts  + 3/side raised push pin torx bolts (requires 1/4 turn  counter-clockwise) flanking the radiator to release the front side panels - slide panel back, then up, then out to release the tab from the rear slot & unseat the locating pins

 

 

• remove the 2 side panels under the tank using #4 allen - it is not necessary to remove the lower front bolt of front louvered panel (Yamaha calls them "air ducts") under the tank - the rear fuel tank side covers includes 1 recessed #5 allen & 1 black #4 allen bolt on the back of the tank per side (the lower back ones, the 2 upper back bolts securing the painted tank plastic do NOT need to be removed)

 

 

 

• Tech tip: it is NOT necessary to remove the 2 push pin connectors in front of the fuel cap or the painted tank plastic cover

 

 

Tank Removal

•  review the Yamaha Tenere 700 Service Manual instructions

 

• Tech tip: it is easier with very little fuel in the tank - run it well into reserve prior to syncing, or siphon fuel out of tank, if desired & NOTE the position of all rubber & foam pads on all inner surfaces as they have a tendency to dislodge & fall off.
• remove the 2 push pin connectors (1/side) fastening the plastic front mount to the tank

 

   

 

• remove the 4 black #5 allen bolts from the rear tank mount

 

 

• carefully pull the tank rearward while wiggling it slightly side to side to release it from the front rubber mounts  & raise the front up supporting the tank mount on a shop towel & securely support it to provide access to the TB

 

    

 

• Tech tip: do NOT stress the fuel pump wiring harness & fuel/vent lines & leave them connected to facilitate warming the bike up prior to performing the TB sync.

 

 

Throttle Body Sync

 

•  review the Yamaha Tenere 700 Service Manual instructions & ensure throttle cable is adjusted correctly, throttle does not stick, air filter is clean & bike idles normally & at correct rpm in addition to the checklist in the Service Manual below.

 

  

 

  

 

• warm up bike fully, keeping temperature below the fan turn on temp throughout the procedure & stable...an external fan directed at the radiator helps stabilize temps, along with minimizing the time that the engine has to idle
• Tech tip: for best results avoid performing TB sync during extreme humidity & temperatures

 

 

• using a long needle nose pliers carefully remove the rubber vacuum line cap from the right TB & attach the right gauge hose

 

 

 

• remove the left TB vacuum hose from the air pressure sensor located above it by the frame & attach the left gauge T connector hoses to the sensor & the TB vacuum hose

 

 

• start bike & ensure no vacuum leaks or kinked hoses
• the left TB is the primary set by the factory - the service manual stipulates adjusting the right TB air bypass screw to sync - adjust to the desired setting using small increments - after each adjustment rev the engine 2 or 3 times, each time less than 1 sec & allow the idle to settle

 

 

 

  

 

• Tech tip: if idle is erratic or synchronization cannot be acquired, check for air trapped in the manometer fluid  and/or vacuum leak and/or kinked hose or other problem that may require further investigation or dealer service
• Note: the differences in height of the fluid in the left & right hose on a differential manometer do not necessarily equate to large pressure differences between throttle bodies because it is using the same fluid reservoir with opposing pressures, so a 1' to 2'  difference may appear alarming but not actually a large pressure difference & hence not a large disparity in throttle body sync...in this regard the manometer displays relatively small pressure differences between throttle bodies & why only very small adjustments of the air bypass screw are needed to move the left & right lines closer together & obtain sync...the goal is to get them as close & stable as possible
• shut off bike, remove the gauge hoses & re-install the left TB hose to the air pressure sensor & right TB vacuum line cap & restart to ensure proper operation

 

Reinstall Tank, Body Panels & Seat(s)

 

• reverse of removal procedure starting with tank, then the 2/side lower panels under the tank, then the large front side panels & the seat(s) last
• Tech tip: use blue locktite on all bolts 
• Tech tip: reset all push pin connectors by pushing the inner extended part back into its housing prior to re-installing on bike - once properly in place push the extended part in until in snaps/pops in place to lock them - the raised Torx head ones can be a little finicky, so ensure that they are fastened properly before riding...I lost one that had not fully snapped into place

 

Install Tank

 

• once tank is securely pushed forward & seated on the rubber mounts install the 4 rear tank mount #5 allen bolts - NOTE that the tank sits on the large rubber frame bumper & that the rear tank mount pivots on the upper 2 bolts & the lower section may not sit flush with the frame mounting point until those 4 bolts are tightened

 

  

 

• do not forget about the 2 push pin connectors at the front of the tank

 

 

 

Install 2 Under Tanks Side Covers

 

• see pic below for overlap fitment of the front side air duct cover & rear side fuel tank cover, NOTE that this bolt is a long black #4 allen

 

 

Install Large Front Side Panels

 

• position the body panel rear locating tab above the upper rear slot, insert down into the slot, then slide forward & while aligning the panel locating pins with their respective holes position the panel correctly & install the 3 #30 Torx bolts & 3 Torx head push pin connectors flanking the radiator

 

 

Install Seat(s)

• test ride time

Here is a video by CVB ADV that provides a good overview of a Tenere 700 TB sync

 

Edited December 24, 2024 by prowlnS10

[Tenerider]

This is by far the best howto I've ever had the pleasure to read.

Many details (especially warnings) might be helpful for other tasks on the bike as well.

Great work, many thanks!

[PaolinoZ]

Many many thanks. Very good job!

[T7MapleLeaf]

This motivated me to finally do the initial service sync tonight, excellent writeup.

[Alf Meister]

Great write up. I see you TB balance was out, what was the result you felt after adjustment when riding ? Less vibes or smoother throttle response, smoother idle etc?

[prowlnS10]

4 hours ago, Alf Meister said:

Great write up. I see you TB balance was out, what was the result you felt after adjustment when riding ? Less vibes or smoother throttle response, smoother idle etc?

Yes, the left TB was pulling more air than the right.  Post sync idle was a little steadier (less up/dn fluctuation) & slightly lower when warm...off idle response & at speed vibration thru the tank & bars was marginally improved...keep in mind that the CP2 motor is refined & smooth to start with...so no dramatic change in overall character...just a little more refined  Had the same experience with my 2014 Super Tenere with <10k km

[BikeBrother]

I had my tenere today at the dealer for its 20.000 km service (still in warranty period). I noticed last months that the throttle was a bit more on/off, like hasitating sometimes. They did the throttle body sync and it runs more smooth, more direct at throttle response and idle is more steady. Runs perfect again.

[Justin]

@prowlnS10 Thank you for the write up! One question. I was about to do my 2022 Euro 5 T7 Throttle body sync and I realised that on my bike the right side throttle body is connected with the hose to the sensor (not the left side as on your bike or any other bike I´ve seen) 

The left side throttle body has the rubber vacuum line cap. see the picture.

 

 

Does that mean that my primary throttle body is on the right side and not on the left? Do I then adjust only the left side?

[prowlnS10]

Justin....I have no experience with a Euro 5 bike & have not seen that gen's service manual, but Yamaha set the left TB with the additional hose connecting the air pressure sensor as the primary TB on  Euro 4 models (at least on my Canadian Japan factory bike)....it would be logical that they kept to  the same protocol with Euro 5 bikes & for whatever reasons moved it to the right TB.  The general convention is to adjust the TB with just the vacuum plug...which also was on the right TB on my 2014 Super Tenere....but always best to confirm with the service manual or a dealer.  You could mark the existing setting of both TB air screws prior to adjustment allowing to return to the factory settings if needed later.

[Justin]

@prowlnS10 that is good advice, thank you!

[wb22rules]

Work called out again today, so I went to home depot and got some line and recreated your tool.

Mine is at 12,000 miles, never had an issue but it is not as smooth right off idle this year so I hoped to correct that.

I added my vacuum pump I use to bleed brakes with to the line on the left throttle body to see if it would give me a reference, it was flucuating around 8 lbs and was causing a vacuum leak resulting in the fluid trying to climb out of the top, so I removed it from the setup. Once that vacuum leak cause was removed ,my levels were still 2-3 feet apart with the left side way higher than the right. Opening the air screw on the right side TB caused this to be worse, so I worked it back closed 1/4 turn at a time. It appears the stock setting on the screw was 3/4 a turn open from bottom. Closing it a little more than a quarter turn caused the levels to only be about 1 foot apart, but even if turned the 1/2 turn more the levels are 8 inches apart. Bike sounded better with that 1/4 turn closed , not so much if closed further. And I don't think its ever good to have an air screw right at the bottom. 

The manual states if sync cannot be achieved the throttle bodies need to be cleaned. I am going to run up to the dealer and get a fresh air filter in case mine is getting dirty and causing restriction and ask the service manager up there what he thinks about it and how he would recommend to clean those or if he is aware of something else on these CP2s.

 

[wb22rules]

Talked with the service manager about the issue, he said they rarely see a CP2 or CP3 come in that needs that adjustment. He has a CP3 bike with 30 K and he has never had to adjust his. The only time they need to clean a throttle body is if the owner has been running crap fuel through it. He thought it would be fine at the sweet spot I found even if the pressures weren't dead identical. Final testing had the fluid about 6- inches different (one side 3 inches up, other 3 inches down) after a couple throttle blips.

I reassembled the bike and test rode it, it ran beautifully, and its now crisp off idle just like it used to be, that quarter turn solved the hesitation/burbling off idle occasionally I had just noticed.

 

Thanks again to the OP for the tool tip, the 25 ' of hose at Home Despot costs me 10 bucks, I had some vac fittings and other short lines to make up the assembly and a spare quart of transmission fluid.

I running out of things to do to this bike this winter, I guess Spring just needs to get it's butt here lol. 

Now if I could just find the jets I have for the carb on my 1980 IT 250 I can focus on finishing tuning it the next day work calls out this winter.

[Hibobb]

14 minutes ago, wb22rules said:

1980 IT 250

That was/is a fun bike!

[roygilbo]

On 10/2/2022 at 7:19 PM, prowlnS10 said:

Tenere 700 Throttle Body Sync Procedure

 

At 12k km (Yamaha Specifies checking every 10k km or 6k miles) it was time to check my 2021 Tenere 700's throttle body sync, which I suspect is out a little, as the bike is no longer quite as smooth as it once was.  This requires some form of vacuum gauge & about 1 hour to remove body panels & tank to gain access to the throttle bodies, sync them & put it all back together....not a difficult job, just a little time consuming.   

 

Bike Specs

• 2021 Tenere 700 Canadian model (Japan Factory)
• 12, 218 km 7,591 miles
• oem original spark plugs
• valve clearance oem factory
• Guglatech Ultra 4 Air Filter + FunnellWebFilters Pre-Filter
• Chevron regular 87 RON  unleaded  fuel

 

Required Tools

 

• #4 & #5 allen, T30 Torx, small diameter punch for push pin connectors, long needle nose pliers, small slotted screwdriver
• differential manometer or vacuum gauges - years ago I made an inexpensive & easy to make differential monometer.  It consists of about 6 meters or 20' of continuous clear hose filled with red tranny fluid, rubber vacuum hoses on the ends (better high heat characteristics to prevent vacuum leak) with the left having a T fitting added to the end to connect to the primary TB & air pressure sensor, mounted to a 1.5 meter or 5' tall wood backing plate.  The long length of hose, 2 in-line connectors which act as restrictors, 1 T connector & semi-viscous tranny fluid provide ample damping to stabilize the fluid while the bike is running & prevent bounce/flutter. I used an automotive syringe to put the tranny fluid in the hose then hung the assembly up with open hose ends above it for a few hours to allow all air to escape.
• NOTE: the colour of bolts/fasteners on my bike may vary from yours depending on market, bike colour & year

 

 

Seat & Body Panel Removal

•  review the Yamaha Tenere 700 Service Manual instructions

 

  

 

• remove seat(s)
• remove the front side faring panels (Yamaha calls them "air scoops") using T30 torx for the 3/side silver bolts  + 3/side raised push pin torx bolts (requires 1/4 turn  counter-clockwise) flanking the radiator to release the front side panels - slide panel back, then up, then out to release the tab from the rear slot & unseat the locating pins

 

 

• remove the 2 side panels under the tank using #4 allen - it is not necessary to remove the lower front bolt of front louvered panel (Yamaha calls them "air ducts") under the tank - the rear fuel tank side covers includes 1 recessed #5 allen & 1 black #4 allen bolt on the back of the tank per side (the lower back ones, the 2 upper back bolts securing the painted tank plastic do NOT need to be removed)

 

 

 

• Tech tip: it is NOT necessary to remove the 2 push pin connectors in front of the fuel cap or the painted tank plastic cover

 

 

Tank Removal

•  review the Yamaha Tenere 700 Service Manual instructions

 

• Tech tip: it is easier with very little fuel in the tank - run it well into reserve prior to syncing, or siphon fuel out of tank, if desired & NOTE the position of all rubber & foam pads on all inner surfaces as they have a tendency to dislodge & fall off.
• remove the 2 push pin connectors (1/side) fastening the plastic front mount to the tank

 

   

 

• remove the 4 black #5 allen bolts from the rear tank mount

 

 

• carefully pull the tank rearward while wiggling it slightly side to side to release it from the front rubber mounts  & raise the front up supporting the tank mount on a shop towel & securely support it to provide access to the TB

 

    

 

• Tech tip: do NOT stress the fuel pump wiring harness & fuel/vent lines & leave them connected to facilitate warming the bike up prior to performing the TB sync.

 

 

Throttle Body Sync

 

•  review the Yamaha Tenere 700 Service Manual instructions & ensure throttle cable is adjusted correctly, throttle does not stick, air filter is clean & bike idles normally & at correct rpm in addition to the checklist in the Service Manual below.

 

  

 

  

 

• warm up bike fully, keeping temperature below the fan turn on temp throughout the procedure
• Tech tip: for best results avoid performing TB sync during extreme humidity & temperatures

 

 

• using a long needle nose pliers carefully remove the rubber vacuum line cap from the right TB & attach the right gauge hose

 

 

 

• remove the left TB vacuum hose from the air pressure sensor located above it by the frame & attach the left gauge T connector hoses to the sensor & the TB vacuum hose

 

 

• start bike & ensure no vacuum leaks or kinked hoses
• the left TB is the primary set by the factory - the service manual stipulates adjusting the right TB air bypass screw to sync - adjust to the desired setting using small increments - after each adjustment rev the engine 2 or 3 times, each time less than 1 sec & allow the idle to settle

 

 

 

  

 

• Tech tip: if idle is erratic or synchronization cannot be acquired, check for vacuum leak and/or kinked hose or other problem that may require further investigation or dealer service
• shut off bike, remove the gauge hoses & re-install the left TB hose to the air pressure sensor & right TB vacuum line cap & restart to ensure proper operation

 

Reinstall Tank, Body Panels & Seat(s)

 

• reverse of removal procedure starting with tank, then the 2/side lower panels under the tank, then the large front side panels & the seat(s) last
• Tech tip: use blue locktite on all bolts 
• Tech tip: reset all push pin connectors by pushing the inner extended part back into its housing prior to re-installing on bike - once properly in place push the extended part in until in snaps/pops in place to lock them - the raised Torx head ones can be a little finicky, so ensure that they are fastened properly before riding...I lost one that had not fully snapped into place

 

Install Tank

 

• once tank is securely pushed forward & seated on the rubber mounts install the 4 rear tank mount #5 allen bolts - NOTE that the tank sits on the large rubber frame bumper & that the rear tank mount pivots on the upper 2 bolts & the lower section may not sit flush with the frame mounting point until those 4 bolts are tightened

 

  

 

• do not forget about the 2 push pin connectors at the front of the tank

 

 

 

Install 2 Under Tanks Side Covers

 

• see pic below for overlap fitment of the front side air duct cover & rear side fuel tank cover, NOTE that this bolt is a long black #4 allen

 

 

Install Large Front Side Panels

 

• position the body panel rear locating tab above the upper rear slot, insert down into the slot, then slide forward & while aligning the panel locating pins with their respective holes position the panel correctly & install the 3 #30 Torx bolts & 3 Torx head push pin connectors flanking the radiator

 

 

Install Seat(s)

• test ride time

Here is a video by CVB ADV that provides a good overview of a Tenere 700 TB sync

 

About to do mine here on the island @prowlnS10   If I may ask, what is the hose size so I ask for the right stuff?  Going to build one of those.

[Totti]

Great instructions! Many thanks! Admins should make this a pinned topic.

[Hawkerjet]

Very nice write up complete with Excellent photos.

 

Since you have to get pretty far into the bowels of the bike one might consider waiting to do the sync at the same time as the valve check.

 

I have 6k miles on my 2022 and it runs just fine so I will probably do my TB sync when I do my valve check/adjust.

 

Cheers.

[AZJW]

9 hours ago, Totti said:

Great instructions! Many thanks! Admins should make this a pinned topic.

Done.

2 hours ago, Hawkerjet said:

Very nice write up complete with Excellent photos.

 

Since you have to get pretty far into the bowels of the bike one might consider waiting to do the sync at the same time as the valve check.

 

I have 6k miles on my 2022 and it runs just fine so I will probably do my TB sync when I do my valve check/adjust.

 

Cheers.

My thoughts exactly.  I'm 2K away from my first valve check so it'll do my TB sync at that time as  it's still getting 62 mpg average.

[prowlnS10]

On 2/2/2023 at 2:12 PM, wb22rules said:

Talked with the service manager about the issue, he said they rarely see a CP2 or CP3 come in that needs that adjustment. He has a CP3 bike with 30 K and he has never had to adjust his. The only time they need to clean a throttle body is if the owner has been running crap fuel through it. He thought it would be fine at the sweet spot I found even if the pressures weren't dead identical. Final testing had the fluid about 6- inches different (one side 3 inches up, other 3 inches down) after a couple throttle blips.

I reassembled the bike and test rode it, it ran beautifully, and its now crisp off idle just like it used to be, that quarter turn solved the hesitation/burbling off idle occasionally I had just noticed.

 

Thanks again to the OP for the tool tip, the 25 ' of hose at Home Despot costs me 10 bucks, I had some vac fittings and other short lines to make up the assembly and a spare quart of transmission fluid.

I running out of things to do to this bike this winter, I guess Spring just needs to get it's butt here lol. 

Now if I could just find the jets I have for the carb on my 1980 IT 250 I can focus on finishing tuning it the next day work calls out this winter.

Glad you were able to see some improvement.  The differences in height of the fluid in the left & right hose on a differential monometer do not necessarily equate to large pressure differences between throttle bodies because it is using the same fluid reservoir with opposing pressure, so a 1 to 2 foot difference may be alarming but not actually a large pressure difference...in this regard the manometer method displays relatively small pressure differences & is why long lengths of tubing is beneficial...the idea is to get them as close & stable as possible at idle & steady 3k to 4k rpm.  Other factors will impact the readings such as the air temp & bike not being at the optimal  & stable temp i.e not too cold or hot & fluctuating...it is important to have a warm engine but not hot enough to activate the radiator fan...using an external fan directed at the radiator is helpful to stabilize temps...identifying & correcting sync quickly is best. I found that the clear type hose does not seal well as the motor & components become hot, so add a small section of fuel or vacuum hose via an inline connector that acts as a restrictor stabilizing or minimizing fluid bounce.  If readings are extremely disparate between the left & right lines it is possible there may be an air pocket in the manometer fluid (it can take several hours for them to dissipate via gravity) or other vacuum leaks that may need to be identified.

[prowlnS10]

On 11/4/2024 at 1:26 PM, roygilbo said:

About to do mine here on the island @prowlnS10   If I may ask, what is the hose size so I ask for the right stuff?  Going to build one of those.

5/16" OD / 3/16th ID hose...have updated the original post

[Hawkerjet]

11 hours ago, AZJW said:

Done.

My thoughts exactly.  I'm 2K away from my first valve check so it'll do my TB sync at that time as  it's still getting 62 mpg average.

Holy cow John. 62 mpg average. That's fantastic! Must be the higher elevation you enjoy.

 

55mpg is my average but my typical elevation average is probably much lower than where you ride.

 

I have seen as high as 67 mpg in the high Sierras.

 

Aren't our little cross plane twins fantastic?

Edited November 18, 2024 by Hawkerjet

[SXXP]

On 11/17/2024 at 12:34 PM, Hawkerjet said:

Holy cow John. 62 mpg average. That's fantastic! Must be the higher elevation you enjoy.

 

55mpg is my average but my typical elevation average is probably much lower than where you ride.

 

I have seen as high as 67 mpg in the high Sierras.

 

Aren't our little cross plane twins fantastic?

 

 

Agree!  However, I'm having serious "buyers" remorse after re-flashing and opening up the exhaust (de-cat) and air intake.  Bike runs well, BUT my mpgs have dropped to 45 ish versus low to mid 50s before.  And frankly, I'm not convinced the ECU re-flash was worth it.  Also, if you are sitting in traffic idling, the exhaust smell is now quite nauseating! 

 

Bottom line - I wouldn't do it again.  I'm missing, literally and figuratively, my pre-flash mpgs !

Edited November 19, 2024 by SXXP

[prowlnS10]

1 hour ago, SXXP said:

 

 

Agree!  However, I'm having serious "buyers" remorse after re-flashing and opening up the exhaust (de-cat) and air intake.  Bike runs well, BUT my mpgs have dropped to 45 ish versus low to mid 50s before.  And frankly, I'm not convinced the ECU re-flash was worth it.  Also, if you are sitting in traffic idling, the exhaust smell is now quite nauseating! 

 

Bottom line - I wouldn't do it again.  I'm missing, literally and figuratively, my pre-flash mpgs !

Optimized fueling for freer flowing intake/exhaust & increases in power require significantly more fuel than in oem configuration & tune. As per 2WheelDynoWorks who did my flash, a 10-15% loss in fuel economy is completely normal due to the increased fuel volume to match the additional airflow through the engine, as well as the disabling of the deceleration fuel cut & closed loop O2 sensor operation. Bikes retaining the oem header &/or air box snorkel would not require as much correction for fueling so should see less decrease in consumption. I also experienced a significant decrease in mileage after an ecu flash combined with a decat header, aftermarket muffler, airbox lid replacement & free flowing air filter...so re-installed the oem header & re-flashed which improved mileage by about 5-8%.  My AFR is good across the entire rpm range & never experienced a rich exhaust smell, though....is your evap canister still in use? Here is a link to my ecu flash blog review, if interested.

[SXXP]

45 minutes ago, prowlnS10 said:

My AFR is good across the entire rpm range & never experienced a rich exhaust smell, though....is your evap canister still in use?

 

Yes, the evap cannister is still in use.  The only mod I've made to it is to plumb the Acerbis tank cap vent hose into the same place the the hose from the OEM tank went into.  

[Hawkerjet]

6 hours ago, SXXP said:

 

 

Agree!  However, I'm having serious "buyers" remorse after re-flashing and opening up the exhaust (de-cat) and air intake.  Bike runs well, BUT my mpgs have dropped to 45 ish versus low to mid 50s before.  And frankly, I'm not convinced the ECU re-flash was worth it.  Also, if you are sitting in traffic idling, the exhaust smell is now quite nauseating! 

 

Bottom line - I wouldn't do it again.  I'm missing, literally and figuratively, my pre-flash mpgs !

I understand your feelings. I have been there too.

 

All of this begs the question, how much power does one need?

 

I have gone the flash route on several bikes seeking better rideability rather than more power. One bike comes to mind. A 2012 Concours 14. The bottom end and mid range really sucked for a 1350 cc hot rod motor. There is a guy in Florida who developed the flash and boy howdy did he hit it out of the park. It totally transformed the bike. Bottom end and mid power really came to life. It was like a different bike. While his goal was to make smoother power by massaging the A/F ratios the end result was an additional 17 hp to boot. All this while the mpg only suffered a couple of mpg.

Edited November 19, 2024 by Hawkerjet

[Hollybrook]

I had my bike flashed to improve rideability and engine temps. I'm plenty satisfied with the results.