Huzar Exhaust Support Fix

[jdub53]

After noticing that the bolt appeared loose which supports my T7's Huzar exhaust at the frame exhaust hangar, when I tried to tighten it the nut tack welded to the ring encircling the mid-pipe broke completely free. I believe that one of the nut/ring tack welds had already broken making the bolt appear to be loose, and with just a little torque when trying to tighten the bolt the other weld then broke free. 

 

I happened to find in my toolbox a #28 stainless steel worm clamp with a small L-shaped stand-off bracket tack welded to it (it pays to be a pack rat). More luck, as the bracket already had the perfect size hole drilled for the Huzar support bolt. New clamp on left below and broken ring/nut on the right.

 

 

After positioning and tightening the clamp on the mid-pipe (which required temporarily removing the upper spring securing the mid-pipe to the muffler inlet), I super-glued a washer and self-locking nut to the back of the bracket due to very limited finger space there. Placing a thick washer under the bolt head to keep the bolt end from contacting the pipe when fully tightened, I also placed a spacer between the Huzar spanner plate and the clamp's bracket to ensure everything was solidly mounted. After tightening everything and reinstalling the spring, the installation is indeed very solid and should be more secure than the original Huzar ring and nut.

 

 

 

If this installation ever fails (bracket cracks, etc.), I'll drill a hole through a worm clamp and capture a self-locking nut under it when the clamp is tightened on the pipe. With the bolt through the hole and tightened into the nut that should then provide an arrangement similar to the original Huzar set-up.

[eddylindenstein]

On 1/26/2023 at 10:44 AM, jdub53 said:

After noticing that the bolt appeared loose which supports my T7's Huzar exhaust at the frame exhaust hangar, when I tried to tighten it the nut tack welded to the ring encircling the mid-pipe broke completely free. I believe that one of the nut/ring tack welds had already broken making the bolt appear to be loose, and with just a little torque when trying to tighten the bolt the other weld then broke free. 

 

I happened to find in my toolbox a #28 stainless steel worm clamp with a small L-shaped stand-off bracket tack welded to it (it pays to be a pack rat). More luck, as the bracket already had the perfect size hole drilled for the Huzar support bolt. New clamp on left below and broken ring/nut on the right.

 

 

After positioning and tightening the clamp on the mid-pipe (which required temporarily removing the upper spring securing the mid-pipe to the muffler inlet), I super-glued a washer and self-locking nut to the back of the bracket due to very limited finger space there. Placing a thick washer under the bolt head to keep the bolt end from contacting the pipe when fully tightened, I also placed a spacer between the Huzar spanner plate and the clamp's bracket to ensure everything was solidly mounted. After tightening everything and reinstalling the spring, the installation is indeed very solid and should be more secure than the original Huzar ring and nut.

 

 

 

If this installation ever fails (bracket cracks, etc.), I'll drill a hole through a worm clamp and capture a self-locking nut under it when the clamp is tightened on the pipe. With the bolt through the hole and tightened into the nut that should then provide an arrangement similar to the original Huzar set-up.

Any chance you know how to install the baffle that came in the box?  I put it between the pipe and mid pipe and it just rattles around when the bike is on as there is no hardware to secure it.

 

[jdub53]

5 hours ago, eddylindenstein said:

Any chance you know how to install the baffle that came in the box?  I put it between the pipe and mid pipe and it just rattles around when the bike is on as there is no hardware to secure it.

 

 

The dB killer plate goes between the muffler inlet and the mid-pipe. Before I installed my Huzar I'd read many accounts of that rattling you describe, so when installing mine I first put the plate into the inlet while holding it upright, then ran a light bead of hi-temp RTV fully around the plate's edge to secure it in place. After allowing the RTV to set up for an hour or so, I proceeded with the installation and still no rattles to this day. I also applied a film of the same RTV at the mid-pipe to header connection, as I'd read of leaks at that area and still none on my bike.