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16t Sprocket - talk to me


roygilbo

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Every so often in this or that thread, someone is saying they are going to a 16t front sprocket.

What are the reasons and what terrain does this assist best in? 

I understand it would give lower revs in highway speeds - a good thing AND the bike has amazing low end torque, so you are not really giving up much on the low end.

Is that it?  Highway speeds lower rpm?

Thanks.

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1 minute ago, roygilbo said:

Every so often in this or that thread, someone is saying they are going to a 16t front sprocket.

What are the reasons and what terrain does this assist best in? 

I understand it would give lower revs in highway speeds - a good thing AND the bike has amazing low end torque, so you are not really giving up much on the low end.

Is that it?  Highway speeds lower rpm?

Thanks.

 

Yep. Bike starts to feel a bit busy at interstate speeds RPM wise. Larger front sprocket makes for better high speed cruising and also "widens" the range of each gear a bit. Most will find themselves tapping on the shifter slightly less often. 

 

The downside is in slow speed use in slow 1st gear technical terrain, and in acceleration to a degree.  If I had a T7 for nothing but street and the occasional gravel road and my street included much HS interstate (80mph+) I would probably jump to a 16t front.  Street and gravel with the street being almost all secondary roads and twistiness? I'd keep the stock gearing for the fun factor for sure.

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31 minutes ago, Windblown said:

 

Yep. Bike starts to feel a bit busy at interstate speeds RPM wise. Larger front sprocket makes for better high speed cruising and also "widens" the range of each gear a bit. Most will find themselves tapping on the shifter slightly less often. 

 

The downside is in slow speed use in slow 1st gear technical terrain, and in acceleration to a degree.  If I had a T7 for nothing but street and the occasional gravel road and my street included much HS interstate (80mph+) I would probably jump to a 16t front.  Street and gravel with the street being almost all secondary roads and twistiness? I'd keep the stock gearing for the fun factor for sure.

I fit kinda in between those two riding modes.  Last years trip to the Yukon could have used a 16t sprocket.  Are they easy to swap in and out? 

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4 minutes ago, roygilbo said:

I fit kinda in between those two riding modes.  Last years trip to the Yukon could have used a 16t sprocket.  Are they easy to swap in and out? 

 

I wouldn't want to switch back and forth during a trip becuase I wouldn't want to haul a big long breaker bar and appropriate socket with me but yes, they are easy to change. 

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1 hour ago, roygilbo said:

Every so often in this or that thread, someone is saying they are going to a 16t front sprocket.

What are the reasons and what terrain does this assist best in? 

I understand it would give lower revs in highway speeds - a good thing AND the bike has amazing low end torque, so you are not really giving up much on the low end.

Is that it?  Highway speeds lower rpm?

Thanks.

16T and stock chain will move the rear axle forward to get proper chain slack. 
If you are running a 140 rear or a 150 with huge knobs you might rub the fender flap behind the shock. 
Else it’s like others comment, slower acceleration and lower revs at speed. 

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Obviously better on road. For off-road, it kinda smoothens out 1st gear on rough but not too technical terrain. Not as jerky, if that makes sense. But that jerkiness also provides some of the fun factor.

 

I think I ride pretty hard off-road (but not extreme) but I also commute with my bike. So I'm staying with the 16T front when it's time to change. 

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2 hours ago, thepointchris said:

split the difference- 45T on the rear

That's what i did and stick with that.

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The 6.3% taller gearing change (2.875 vs oem 3.067) seems a very good fit for the T7 & my mostly 70/30 road/dirt biased, solo, minimal technical terrain riding with the lower gears, in particular, now being more usable & stretched out giving the bike a more relaxed demeanor, resulting in smoother throttle response (the Camel ADV 1 finger clutch mod produces lighter lever pull & a wider engagement point that also improves shifting smoothness). 1st gear is now more usable in the city while the ample low down torque, linear powerband & good fueling of the CP2 motor still easily starts in 2nd gear without increased susceptibility to stalling & idles effortlessly in 1st at an indicated 12 kph & in 2nd at 15 kph (my T7 speedo reads about 8-9 kph higher than my gps at 100 kph). 3rd, 4th & 5th become more usable across the board & still provide ample roll on acceleration from 2-3k rpm depending on gear, while 6th now feels more like a hwy gear but still pulls without bucking from as low as 70 kph.  
 
This gearing, imho, better compliments the T7 CP2 powerband for average pavement/adventure/FSR non-technical use than the 3.067 oem gearing, which tends to encourages short shifting in everyday riding. An ancillary benefit should be improved fuel mileage/range. Overall, I really prefer the feel of the bike now & have not noticed any increased vibration/resonance that a few others have cited (perhaps because I'm using the rubber cushioned version similar to the oem front sprocket)...but can easily revert to oem & shorter gearing if desired. 
Edited by prowlnS10
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4 hours ago, Lewie said:

I think I might make this mod as I’m 100% Road 

I tried the 16 front and if i did only road or even less offroad i do then i would stay with the 16t front.

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Its pretty flat where I live in Texas with lots of high speed blacktop.  I really like the 16 here.

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Tenere 700 / Africa Twin / Goldwing / Super Tenere / WR250R / TDR 250 / GS1000S / GT750 / H2 750

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I find the 15T a bit too low around town, so if I'm on a slight downhill, I start in 2nd gear. 

 

Off road, I find myself wishing for a 14T in real technical places. 

 

For me, I guess the 15T is a good compromise, but would switch to a 16T if going on a trip with lots of highway miles. 

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21 minutes ago, Hollybrook said:

 

For me, I guess the 15T is a good compromise, but would switch to a 16T if going on a trip with lots of highway miles. 

Exactly like a KLR. When doing lots of more technical off-road I used a 14. I tried 16 for highway. Unlike the T7 the old KLR didn't have enough power for the 16 so in the end I just used the stock compromise 15.

Tenere 700 / Africa Twin / Goldwing / Super Tenere / WR250R / TDR 250 / GS1000S / GT750 / H2 750

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30 minutes ago, Hollybrook said:

I guess the 15T is a good compromise

The 15T is not a compromise but the standard size going for a 15 - 45 in between the OEM 15 - 46 and the 16 - 46 we're talking about here that would be a compromise :classic_wink:

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24 minutes ago, Ray Ride4life said:

The 15T is not a compromise but the standard size going for a 15 - 45 in between the OEM 15 - 46 and the 16 - 46 we're talking about here that would be a compromise :classic_wink:

I think the compromise he was referring to was for the KLR

anyway I’ve one ordered - will get it fitted before my short Euro jaunt in June 

Edited by Lewie
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Just planning the trip on Google maps

france- dip into Belgium then Luxembourg on to the Black Forest- quick ride through Switzerland back into France then home

out on a Monday morning and back on Saturday afternoon -

I can see the shuttle terminal from my house - literally 5 minutes ride 

After nearly 40 years riding it’s a 1St for me

Edited by Lewie
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13 hours ago, Ray Ride4life said:

That's what i did and stick with that.

Does that cause problems getting the rear tyre too close to the fender by the spring?  A post above said it moves the axle closer and may rub with large knobbies (no definition on "large knobbies")

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1 hour ago, roygilbo said:

Does that cause problems getting the rear tyre too close to the fender by the spring?  A post above said it moves the axle closer and may rub with large knobbies (no definition on "large knobbies")

No, with the smaller rear the wheel is going the opposite direction.

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I did the 16T modification, and I've got about 1 inch of clearance between the stock Pirelli Scorpions and the rear fender.  So I'd venture that it's not only the size of the knobbies alone, but what the actual circumference of any tire that counts.

 

This was one of the most functional mods on my bike so far.   I do a lot of asphalt riding, and this gets me about an extra 10mph before I have to shift gears, keeping it around the 6-7k rpms shift point.

 

And to clarify on the post above - larger 16T front sprocket will move the rear wheel forwards, smaller 45T rear sprocket moves the rear wheel back, assuming you keep the stock chain and tension.

Edited by Endopotential
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And fitted

luckly me neighbour is a lorry mechanic so had a charged up impact wrench on hand 

thanks members for the support - too cold to test ride today really but taking the opportunity to lube the chain -stuck  under  the cover it’s formed a bit of surface rust 

 

BFE8CA70-8526-4AE3-A7FE-3D90AA3D2E28.jpeg

Edited by Lewie
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The bikes got around 1500miles on- obviously I had to slacken it right off to accommodate the new sprocket- ended up Center ing it just under the 3rd mark on the swinging arm 

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I changed to a 16T when the bike was near new.  It is perfect.  For a 50/50 bike is feels great.  It I was riding it 80% off road, id have left it stock.  There are many many miles that we have to ride in the PNW to get to trails and to BDR routes.   And then, have to ride back to the garage after long trips.  The 16t front sprocket feels perfect for this type of riding.  

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