Rally tower concept

[Hollybrook]

Don't you love it when a plan comes together? 

[random1781]

On 6/18/2023 at 11:23 AM, Hollybrook said:

Don't you love it when a plan comes together? 

It's a novel experience, that's for sure.

[random1781]

A few days of some good, rocky stuff and a few crashes in AZ...

 

 

 

So far everything is checking out. There's some squeaking that I think is the result of the side panels towards the front rubbing against the aluminum, or maybe the neoprene washers I used in some places. Next version will be trimmed down a bit to avoid unwanted contact with the side panels. The tablet has some bouncing on terrain like this. It doesn't bother me, but still spitballing ways to minimize it.

 

The light is ridiculous. This tiny thing is brighter than than the stock headlight, and cheaper too! I wired it into the stock controls, but still added an on/off switch, which is helpful when we're at camp.

 

There's enough space under that light for a spare tube or something around that size. With the crash bars I have, I can't fit another identical light under it, but frankly there's no need to for my use case.

[Hibobb]

A tip of the hat to you, you sure have a passion for motorcycles!

[random1781]

A few thousand miles on the tower now and it's still holding up well. Working on some changes for the next version though.

 

Here's some helmet cam from a little rocky section...

 

 

[random1781]

Well, I have about 13k miles on this tower now. There has been only one minor but consistent point of failure, which has been the threaded rods that connect to the side panels...

 

 

I've had a total of three sheer, all in the same spot. I think this is due to a slight misalignment of the holes in my bracket that the rods bolt to, which need to come forward 1-2mm. But, as discussed with @Canadian-t7 previously here, having just one mounting point between the bracket attached to the frame and the tower itself allows for very slight rotation along that axis, which I think this fatigues those rods over time.

 

The only way to really correct this is to add that other attachment point, but I haven't been in a good spot to have new brackets fabricated yet. I thought about reinforcing the rods, either by upping the size from M6 to M8 or by adding some aluminum spacers around them, but I'm concerned this would just move the failure point to the side panel itself. Since the panel is ~$100 and the rods are $0.50, I'll throw a couple quarters at these every 3-4k in the meantime.

 

So v2 changes will be...

• Adding a second attachment point from the frame bracket to the tower
• Slight shift in hole position for rods and probably upping to M8
• Adding a couple more holes to bolt into the side panels a bit lower
• Adding bracket for switches
• Trimming a bit of material off of the front of the tower brackets. There's a spot that's slightly rubbing on the side panels.
• Find UV-resistant grommets for where the tower attaches to the GPS bar

[Guido B]

May I give some inspiration?

I am building my own at the moment. 

Just sorted out the wiring yesterday. I am now waiting for the one piece windscreen. 

 

That lower crossbar was to short and in the wrong position when I was fitting it. I will leave that out for now. Made the base from HDPE. The crossbars and sheet metal from Aluminium. And some titanium and stainless steel parts in there.

 

The hole below the display will get a waterproof USB C outlet.

 

 

 

 

 

[Ede-DE]

9 hours ago, random1781 said:

So v2 changes will be...

• Adding a second attachment point from the frame bracket to the tower
• Slight shift in hole position for rods and probably upping to M8
• Adding a couple more holes to bolt into the side panels a bit lower
• Adding bracket for switches
• Trimming a bit of material off of the front of the tower brackets. There's a spot that's slightly rubbing on the side panels.
• Find UV-resistant grommets for where the tower attaches to the GPS bar

•   Adding a windshield? 

 

Maybe there's a solution for that, they sell it as a spare part.

Store

---

spare carbon windshield thickness 2,5mm for rally kit ktm 950 990 adventure 4k the kit includes: windshield, led lights cover, mounting bolts, Not compatible with OEM headlight

 

[random1781]

5 hours ago, Ede-DE said:

•   Adding a windshield? 

 

Maybe there's a solution for that, they sell it as a spare part.

Store

---

spare carbon windshield thickness 2,5mm for rally kit ktm 950 990 adventure 4k the kit includes: windshield, led lights cover, mounting bolts, Not compatible with OEM headlight

 

Originally I was going to add a transparent headlight protector as a windshield, but I love the extra airflow.

[random1781]

@Guido B that looks awesome!

 

The crossbars were the most uncertain parts. The lower one really isn't necessary, I think. I haven't had any issues with the side panels themselves using just the one crossbar. Since I wasn't certain of the widths, I wound up using threaded rods so I could adjust the length with a couple of nuts clamping down on the brackets.

 

How are your crossbars secured to the base? Was there a reason you went with HDPE? Looking forward to seeing it on the bike!

[Guido B]

37 minutes ago, random1781 said:

@Guido B that looks awesome!

 

The crossbars were the most uncertain parts. The lower one really isn't necessary, I think. I haven't had any issues with the side panels themselves using just the one crossbar. Since I wasn't certain of the widths, I wound up using threaded rods so I could adjust the length with a couple of nuts clamping down on the brackets.

 

How are your crossbars secured to the base? Was there a reason you went with HDPE? Looking forward to seeing it on the bike!

I removed the lower crossbar. Took the wrong measurements so it was too short and thought the hell with it. It's still plenty strong without it indeed.

 

The part in the middle between the 2 plates is just a spacer. The two crossbars are threaded, so there is a threaded rod connecting them. I can secure them because I made 2 flats spots on each of the crossbars to fit a wrench.

 

I choose HDPE because of it's flexibility. It it stiff enough, but in case of a crash it will bend right back which aluminium does not.

 

Windshield will arrive next week. Just tested the wiring. Everything is looking good.

 

Still have to wait another 4 weeks for my new rims to arrive, so my bike is hanging from the ceiling of my shed atm...

 

 

[RiCkMaN]

Hi.

 

Right now I'm struggling with the wiring too.. 

 

On 1/11/2024 at 5:52 AM, Guido B said:

Just sorted out the wiring yesterday

 

Can you please share how to connect it? Thanks

 

[Guido B]

1 hour ago, RiCkMaN said:

Hi.

 

Right now I'm struggling with the wiring too.. 

 

 

Can you please share how to connect it? Thanks

 

 

[random1781]

I think I saw somewhere that 2024 US models have a four pin connector for the headlight. No clue what the changes are, but just an FYI for anyone who's thinking about hacking down a shiny new bike.

 

I've also noticed a very slight dimming/flickering on my light (XL80) while idling. It's wired like @Guido Bs diagram.

 

Additionally, I tried sourcing a connector to match the headlight, but I never found one that was reasonably priced. The OEM headlights are hard to find and there's actually a demand for them, so don't butcher the connector from the one you discard.

[Guido B]

4 minutes ago, random1781 said:

I think I saw somewhere that 2024 US models have a four pin connector for the headlight. No clue what the changes are, but just an FYI for anyone who's thinking about hacking down a shiny new bike.

 

I've also noticed a very slight dimming/flickering on my light (XL80) while idling. It's wired like @Guido Bs diagram.

 

Additionally, I tried sourcing a connector to match the headlight, but I never found one that was reasonably priced. The OEM headlights are hard to find and there's actually a demand for them, so don't butcher the connector from the one you discard.

I ordered a connector that looked very simillar to the OEM headlight one. But it didn't fit.

 

It hink I know which one I need now.

It's the HM090 6 pin.

 

I didn't notice any flickering yet. How many watts is your light, and which connector did you connect it to?

 

There seems to be a small difference between the two aux connectors.

Seems like one is for fog lights and the other for heated grips.

[random1781]

1 hour ago, Guido B said:

I ordered a connector that looked very simillar to the OEM headlight one. But it didn't fit.

 

It hink I know which one I need now.

It's the HM090 6 pin.

 

I didn't notice any flickering yet. How many watts is your light, and which connector did you connect it to?

 

There seems to be a small difference between the two aux connectors.

Seems like one is for fog lights and the other for heated grips.

Not sure which is which, but I used the left side. They are both on the same circuit though. 76W with high beam.

 

The flickering is a more recent problem. At the last minute I added a switch to completely turn the light off, but it's a generic, low-quality switch that is just zip tied on. I suspect either this or the relay (which I think is also off-brand) is the problem. Probably water ingress into the switch causing corrosion.

[Guido B]

12 minutes ago, random1781 said:

Not sure which is which, but I used the left side. They are both on the same circuit though. 76W with high beam.

 

The flickering is a more recent problem. At the last minute I added a switch to completely turn the light off, but it's a generic, low-quality switch that is just zip tied on. I suspect either this or the relay (which I think is also off-brand) is the problem. Probably water ingress into the switch causing corrosion.

Sounds like it is the switch indeed. 76W is some serious light! 

 

I used the one on the right by the way. Not sure if it matters either...

[random1781]

21 hours ago, Guido B said:

Sounds like it is the switch indeed. 76W is some serious light! 

 

I used the one on the right by the way. Not sure if it matters either...

Yeah it is! Ideally I would have used two smaller lights for more control over the beam. I have this one angled pretty far down so I don't blind people. It's not optimal but still better than stock, and it was the most cost-effective option.

[Hollybrook]

@Guido B in the schematic you posted, the part of the connector that is inside the dotted line is a suggested configuration. I'm not sure why they included a relay since both positive wires connect to the same source and are the same gauge on my bike. I guess Yamaha is so intrigued by negative signaling that they are assuming you will do the same.  

[Guido B]

 

 

 

Just have to wire up the USB-C and we're done. Really happy with how this turned out..

[random1781]

On 1/15/2024 at 1:01 PM, Guido B said:

 

 

 

Just have to wire up the USB-C and we're done. Really happy with how this turned out..

That looks fantastic! We definitely need to see more pictures when you're able to wheel the bike outside.

[Guido B]

1 hour ago, random1781 said:

That looks fantastic! We definitely need to see more pictures when you're able to wheel the bike outside.

I'll make sure you get those

[Guido B]

 

 

 

As promised...

 

[Schegge]

very nice work looks really lightweight do you have some numbers for the weight difference?

[Guido B]

4 hours ago, Schegge said:

very nice work looks really lightweight do you have some numbers for the weight difference?

I think I saved a bit more than 1 kg. Could potentially save 0.5kg more if I would be a bit more cautious with the choise of materials, and lights.

 

These light weigh 600 grams combined, but they were only 15 bucks per light.

 

I could go with one of the fancier brands spending 140 bucks per single unit, but I don't think it's worth it...