Broken clutch, what to expect ?

[Sapitch]

Hi !
I'm no mechanic, but i do it anyways.

I took a mud bath, got stuck there and i was "driving" while my two friends pulled the bike with a rope.
Suddenly, i "lost power", it was hard to tell why at the moment because the sound is muffled under 25 inches of mud.
The engine was running but the wheel wasn't spinning.
We finished the recovery with the engine shut off and pushed the bike 20 feet away.

I saw that the chain had derailed and got tangled in the front sprocket.
I rerailed it, started the engine, pulled the clutch, and when i shifted first gear, it stalled like if i've forgotten to pull the clutch.
The clutch cable is fine, the attachment over the clutch cover is fine, the clutch pull is a little harder than usual.
As i was only 10km from home, i started the bike while in first gear, that got me going.
I shifted up to 3rd gear without a clutch and got home slowly.
The engine runs perfectly smooth, there seem to be no clutch slippage, the power is as usual.

Yesterday i flushed the oil, it was like new, no water in it, no metal chunks or filings.
Removed the chain guard, saw that 1 of the "screw pillars" snapped off.

Tonight i'm gonna remove the clutch cover, it's gonna be a first for me.
Any ideas on what i should expect ?
Which clutch part is the most likely to be broken/stuck/moved ?

Thanks










I have the service manual:

[Hibobb]

So when you pull the clutch lever, the little lever on the engine (#3 Pull Lever) is moving, correct?

Just for the heck of it I would take all the free-play adjustment out of the cable, to get maximum movement of the #3 Pull Lever, and see if that disengages the clutch.

Best of luck and be sure to report back

 

PS, ask your buddies if they have one of these cable lube devices, sounds like you will need to this also.

[Sapitch]

7 minutes ago, Hibobb said:

So when you pull the clutch lever, the little lever on the engine (#3 Pull Lever) is moving, correct?

Correct.
I pull the clutch, i see the #3 pull lever moving as usual

 

 

7 minutes ago, Hibobb said:

Just for the heck of it I would take all the free-play adjustment out of the cable, to get maximum movement of the #3 Pull Lever, and see if that disengages the clutch.

Thats the first thing we did when we realised the clutch didn't engage.
It didn't change the clutch feel and action.


 

 

8 minutes ago, Hibobb said:

Best of luck and be sure to report back

 

PS, ask your buddies if they have one of these cable lube devices, sounds like you will need to this also.

Thanks !
Will do.

[Hibobb]

OK, you have that covered...

Next step is just like you plan to do, open it up and look at the clutch.

My guess it the plates are stuck together...

Cheap fix is to free them, soak them in oil overnight and reinstall them.

The service manual has some flatness and thickness specs I am sure, but generally I try the cheap way first....

See what they look like and make your own call.

 

 

[ScorpionT16]

Opening and checking the clutch is fairly easy. Only thing is I'd have a new gasket handy as the old one tends to stick or rip off. If you do take the clutch plates out, use a torque wrench (and an accurate one) to re-install the bolts, I snapped one of the bolts putting the clutch basket cover back on at just a few nm over spec. Getting the broken bolt out was anxiety inducing, and the cost of a new bolt from Japan more than it should be. 

 

The MT-07 Clutch Kit works on the T7 also, comes with new springs, plates, and a Gasket. 

[AZJW]

Sorry to hear about the clutch and sprocket cover, hope you get it repaired with a minimum of cost and drama.  I agree with  @Hibobb, soaking the clutch plates would the first thing I'd try, hope that fixes it.

 

BTW, if there was a thread "How bad did you bury your T7" I think you'd win top honors. Maybe you could start one under "Pics and Videos" , but I doubt anyone could upstage that!

[Rider 101]

3 hours ago, Sapitch said:

when i shifted first gear, it stalled like if i've forgotten to pull the clutch

Are you sure it isn't the side stand switch? Bridge it out and give it a go.

There is a threat somewhere about the switch.

[qInvention]

I agree to @Rider 101, my first thought was the sidestand switch also. 

 

In order to soak the clutch plates in oil: you could try to lay the bike down on the clutch side for a few hours in order to allow oil to get there.

[Sapitch]

4 hours ago, Hibobb said:

My guess it the plates are stuck together...

Cheap fix is to free them, soak them in oil overnight and reinstall them.

The service manual has some flatness and thickness specs I am sure, but generally I try the cheap way first....

See what they look like and make your own call.

Only the 2 plates (near to the brake pedal) were lightly stuck.
I've split them with bare hands, it wasn't a vacuum effect from the oil, but not a lot of force was needed.
I'll clean them with a tooth brush and soak them in engine oil overnight.

[Sapitch]

2 hours ago, ScorpionT16 said:

Opening and checking the clutch is fairly easy. Only thing is I'd have a new gasket handy as the old one tends to stick or rip off. If you do take the clutch plates out, use a torque wrench (and an accurate one) to re-install the bolts, I snapped one of the bolts putting the clutch basket cover back on at just a few nm over spec. Getting the broken bolt out was anxiety inducing, and the cost of a new bolt from Japan more than it should be. 

 

The MT-07 Clutch Kit works on the T7 also, comes with new springs, plates, and a Gasket. 

Oups, no spare gasket !
And yes, it did rip off

[Sapitch]

1 hour ago, Rider 101 said:

Are you sure it isn't the side stand switch? Bridge it out and give it a go.

There is a threat somewhere about the switch.

My swith was blown off by a rock last year, i bypassed it already.
I'll check at my connection, but while driving in 3rd gear, pulling the clutch lever had no effect, even with the throttle open.

[Sapitch]

1 hour ago, qInvention said:

In order to soak the clutch plates in oil: you could try to lay the bike down on the clutch side for a few hours in order to allow oil to get there.

I flushed the oil last night.
I'll give them an oil bath in my girlfriend's preferred frying pan 

[Hibobb]

Wow, lots of cooked crud on those plates.

My guess is when the chain locked up the sprocket the clutch started slipping, and you didn't notice right away, as the motor was buried.

 

@Sapitch This is a great post.... lots of nice pictures and you are moving forward nicely. 

This is why I join motorcycle forums!

 

PS, were your panniers waterproof (teasing).

[Hibobb]

If any of the solid metal plates are worn, leaving a ridge on them, you may want to tape a sheet of fine emery paper on to something flat and lap the ridge off.

[Rider 101]

I brought an IT465 clutch back to life using #2000 wet and dry stickyback on a lapping plate. Worked a treat and a clean up with turps finished the job.

Lapping plate was checked flat against a master plate before using. The joys of working in heavy industry maintenance. 

If you can get hold of a reasonably thick piece of glass this will usually suffice.

[Sapitch]

Finally, a friend came by and saw it immediately: my friction plates are toast !
This is where all the black gunk comes from, not normal wear.
The thing is, not all friction plates are worn out, i'll post pics of the ones that are actually worn.

Everything else looks fine.
I'll order a clutch kit along with a new gasket.
My first option is to order from my dealership.
Any online suggestions for a "in stock" clutch kit in Canada ?

I checked on Yamaha's website:

/en/resources/images/logo_fr.png

Motorcycles - Yamaha Motor Canada

And on Fortnine:

Motorcycle Drive | FortNine Canada

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Shop the largest selection of motorcycle drive in Canada. FREE Shipping and Fast Delivery.

Thanks y'all !

Edited July 5, 2023 by Sapitch

[Hibobb]

This is who I use. Not sure if they ship up north...

$66 USD for #24 friction plate set

 

2021 Yamaha TENERE 700 (XTZ7MB) Clutch | CarolinaCycle

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Shop online for OEM Clutch parts that fit your 2021 Yamaha TENERE 700 (XTZ7MB), search all our OEM Parts or call at 800-438-7921

 

 

 

[Sapitch]

27 minutes ago, Sapitch said:

The thing is, not all friction plates are worn out, i'll post pics of the ones that are actually worn.

The friction plates are the ones with "tabs" on the outside diameter.
The one on the right is good.
The two on the left kinda melted, leaving some residue on the clutch plates (the ones that are all metal, with teeths on the inside diameter)








As per my friend, these blue-ish "inprints" on the clutch plates are a sign of overheat and are not supposed to be there.




Residue on a clutch plate

[Sapitch]

6 minutes ago, Hibobb said:

This is who I use. Not sure if they ship up north...

$66 USD for #24 friction plate set

Yes, they ship to my place, but for 68 $USD... 
I'll keep them as my last resort, hoping that my dealer will be able to get the kit i want before Christmas.
I'll order the complete kit (#23) as it comes with the gasket, all the plates and 6 new springs.

[AZJW]

Agreed, that clutch is toast.  Good job documenting this and if you can add some step by step detail, torque specs, etc.,  I'll move this to Tech Tips. Thx.

[Sapitch]

3 hours ago, Hibobb said:

PS, were your panniers waterproof (teasing).

 

Yup, everything in there was bone dry.

Nelson-Rigg Deluxe Adventure, mud bath edition

[Tenerider]

5 hours ago, Hibobb said:

Wow, lots of cooked crud on those plates.

My guess is when the chain locked up the sprocket the clutch started slipping, and you didn't notice right away, as the motor was buried.

 

@Sapitch This is a great post.... lots of nice pictures and you are moving forward nicely. 

This is why I join motorcycle forums!

 

PS, were your panniers waterproof (teasing).

Ditto, and a great thread overall! Lots of helpful hints and ideas here imho.

[BikeBrother]

Great thread! Thanks.

And mud seems good for your skin....

[Sapitch]

Clutch kit ordered in the nearest dealership.
No one had that in stock, should get it in about a week.
#1WS-W001G-00-00
203$ CAN

As @ScorpionT16 mentioned, the kit is the same as on the MT-07

Confirmed by the US Yamaha website:







Images of the gasket are confusing because it's not the right shape.
But the part number is good.






Same part number here, but with the right shape for the gasket:
 

2021 Yamaha TENERE 700 (XTZ7MB) Clutch | CarolinaCycle

---

Shop online for OEM Clutch parts that fit your 2021 Yamaha TENERE 700 (XTZ7MB), search all our OEM Parts or call at 800-438-7921

[ScorpionT16]

38 minutes ago, Sapitch said:

Clutch kit ordered in the nearest dealership.
No one had that in stock, should get it in about a week.
#1WS-W001G-00-00
203$ CAN

As @ScorpionT16 mentioned, the kit is the same as on the MT-07

Confirmed by the US Yamaha website:







Images of the gasket are confusing because it's not the right shape.
But the part number is good.






Same part number here, but with the right shape for the gasket:
 

2021 Yamaha TENERE 700 (XTZ7MB) Clutch | CarolinaCycle

---

Shop online for OEM Clutch parts that fit your 2021 Yamaha TENERE 700 (XTZ7MB), search all our OEM Parts or call at 800-438-7921

 I'm in Toronto and had ordered the kit off e-Bay around 2 years back, during covid and shortages to get rid of the duck-quacking/plate sticking sound on the bike whenever I had time, I think I paid around $180-200 then with shipping, so dealer price is good.  The eBay listing had the correct gasket show, though dealer didn't, must just be a generic image they use. 

 

Once installed your clutch should be butter smooth! I'd order a clutch cable from them aswell just in case and as a spare. They take time to come in. I also did the Camel ADV 2 finger clutch mod, and it's really worth it. Better friction zone and pull, waited too long to do it 

[Sapitch]

Here is a really good video to learn how clutches work, my friend just sent me that.
Only difference is that on the T7, the pressure plate is pulled from the outside rather than pushed from the inside.