Broken clutch, what to expect ?

[Sapitch]

Hi !
I'm no mechanic, but i do it anyways.

I took a mud bath, got stuck there and i was "driving" while my two friends pulled the bike with a rope.
Suddenly, i "lost power", it was hard to tell why at the moment because the sound is muffled under 25 inches of mud.
The engine was running but the wheel wasn't spinning.
We finished the recovery with the engine shut off and pushed the bike 20 feet away.

I saw that the chain had derailed and got tangled in the front sprocket.
I rerailed it, started the engine, pulled the clutch, and when i shifted first gear, it stalled like if i've forgotten to pull the clutch.
The clutch cable is fine, the attachment over the clutch cover is fine, the clutch pull is a little harder than usual.
As i was only 10km from home, i started the bike while in first gear, that got me going.
I shifted up to 3rd gear without a clutch and got home slowly.
The engine runs perfectly smooth, there seem to be no clutch slippage, the power is as usual.

Yesterday i flushed the oil, it was like new, no water in it, no metal chunks or filings.
Removed the chain guard, saw that 1 of the "screw pillars" snapped off.

Tonight i'm gonna remove the clutch cover, it's gonna be a first for me.
Any ideas on what i should expect ?
Which clutch part is the most likely to be broken/stuck/moved ?

Thanks










I have the service manual:

[Hibobb]

@Sapitch, again... Great Pictures,Thank You!

You will up and running in no time, once your parts are in.

You may... want to change your oil & filter once again, after an hour or so of running.

If you don't already have one, a chain guide is a good investment.

[Sapitch]

I got my clutch last sunday and painfully cleaned the gasket mating surfaces one night after work.
Now i'm installing the clutch plates back in, and got confused with what the manual says.


Page 5-47
There is 2 friction plate 1 (A) in the kit
And 5 friction plate 2 (B)




Page 5-48:
I can't install any friction plates aligned with punch mark "a", which is a circle, except maybe for the last one, which fits on top of the others.
Since i have only 2 of the friction plates model 1, i suppose i have to start with one and end with one.

Do you think the yellow sentence should begin with:
"After you installed the first 6 plates... "

But then the manual says to install a plate 2 aligned with mark "b" (triangle), which is weird.






Punch marks "a" (circle) and "b" (triangle)
Note the difference in shoulders/groove width
In this picture, we can see that the plates won't go in when aligned with mark "a"






Punch mark "a" (circle), there is "shoulders" preventing the plates from entering there:








After watching a couple videos, i got more confidence that i was understanding correctly but the manual is poorly written 
 

 

And then i've found this forum post which made it very clear:
 

R7 Slipper Clutch - Page 2 - MT-07 FZ-07 Racing / Track talk - The FZ-07 Forum

[Totti]

Are the clutch part numbers same in the MT-07 and in the Tenere?

Could it be that Tenere has the same "feature" as the Bmw F700/800GS series?

The GS has the same clutch as the street bikes with the same engine (like the RT).

So it is allergic to heavy slipping and burns easily. 

[OK185]

did you drain the cooloant? @Sapitch

[Sapitch]

2 hours ago, OK185 said:

did you drain the cooloant? @Sapitch

 

No, I didn't drain the coolant.

By letting the coolant hoses attached to the cover, the access to the clutch basket was a little less "comfortable", but I preferred that to flushing the coolant.

It went well despite of that.

[vagrant318]

On 7/5/2023 at 8:04 AM, ScorpionT16 said:

 I'm in Toronto and had ordered the kit off e-Bay around 2 years back, during covid and shortages to get rid of the duck-quacking/plate sticking sound on the bike whenever I had time, I think I paid around $180-200 then with shipping, so dealer price is good.  The eBay listing had the correct gasket show, though dealer didn't, must just be a generic image they use. 

 

Once installed your clutch should be butter smooth! I'd order a clutch cable from them aswell just in case and as a spare. They take time to come in. I also did the Camel ADV 2 finger clutch mod, and it's really worth it. Better friction zone and pull, waited too long to do it 

That's funny, First time I've heard it described like that but accurate, like a honk or quack. So annoying,  I should  fix mine this winter.

@Sapitch what is your plan about the broken nub for sprocket cover 

[Sapitch]

7 hours ago, vagrant318 said:

 

@Sapitch what is your plan about the broken nub for sprocket cover 

 

My initial plan was to "glue" the broken nub/post with some kind of JBWeld, but I came to fear that if it failed, it might have caused a lot of damage, and even a crash, if it fell off and got stuck in the chain and/or front sprocket.

So I decided to simply ignore it.

But when the time came to reinstall the "half moon shaped" plastic/rubber front chain guard, I had a bad surprise.

Its held in place by 2 of the 3 posts, and in my case, the "wrong one" is broken.

I had to modify the chain guard, I'll try to take a few pics to better explain what I did.

 

*Edit

I finally found pics.

Not super clear, but I drilled 4 holes to attach the chain guard to the 3rd post with brass wire.

Not pretty, but after a couple of offroad rides, it seems to hold well.

 

 

 

Edited September 11, 2023 by Sapitch
Pics added

[OK185]

On 9/9/2023 at 3:19 AM, Sapitch said:

 

No, I didn't drain the coolant.

By letting the coolant hoses attached to the cover, the access to the clutch basket was a little less "comfortable", but I preferred that to flushing the coolant.

It went well despite of that.

Thanks for the info.

The shaft that powers the water pump will align easily again or is it something to watch out for?

Can you tell that it engages correctly?

 

And to leave the water pump on did you lay the bike down like in that video?

 

It all does not sound that complicated and I think I will do it myself. Just don't want to mess it up and not be able to put it back together again. 

 

[Sapitch]

3 hours ago, OK185 said:

The shaft that powers the water pump will align easily again or is it something to watch out for?

Can you tell that it engages correctly?

Yes, it aligned easily.
I think the clutch cover will not fit if the water pump shaft notch is not aligned properly, so there is no risk for an uncoupled water pump with the cover closed.
The whole job was fairly easy, even for a noob like me.
Scrubbing off the old gasket was a pain in the *ss, as i wanted the mating surfaces to be super clean for my new gasket to seat properly.
Also, i had to do a little bit of fiddling/trial-and-error to align the pull lever correctly.
IIRC, i tried 3 positions on the pull rod rack alignment with the pull lever shaft gear.
I suggest that instead of installing the 58 gazillions bolts on the clutch cover, you install only 2 or 3, not fully tighten, and then you connect the clutch cable to the pull lever and try the clutch lever action.

 

 

4 hours ago, OK185 said:

And to leave the water pump on did you lay the bike down like in that video?

No, i didn't lay the bike down.
The coolant "circuit" is "enclosed" in the clutch cover.
Coolant will not leak, as long as you don't unscrew the water pump from the cover.

 

 

4 hours ago, OK185 said:

It all does not sound that complicated and I think I will do it myself. Just don't want to mess it up and not be able to put it back together again. 

Go for it !
In addition of being cheaper, it's rewarding, and you'll get to know your bike better.
Take pics and notes along the way, work in a clean environment, and eveything will be fine 
 

[Hibobb]

@Sapitch, you are worth your weight in gold...

[Doozgle]

Hi,

I just checked the OEM parts catalogue and can confirm that all CP2 engines:

• MTN690 (MT-07)
• XTZ690 (TENERE 700)
• XTZ690D (TENERE 700 WORLD RALLY)

use the exact clutch parts numbers:

• 5TG-16321-00    PLATE, FRICTION    2 Q'ty
• 5VY-16321-00    PLATE, FRICTION    5 Q'ty
• 90501-230E4    SPRING, COMPRESSION    6 Q'ty

Trying to choose EBC or TRW Friction Multi-Plate clutch Set, but both offer 7 identical friction disks. Can't find any manual on how to install it correctly.

Or should I stick with OEM parts from YAMAHA???

• B4C-W001M-00-00    Friction Plate Kit AP
• 1WS-15461-00-00    Gasket, Crankcase Cover 2

Edited September 21, 2023 by Doozgle
New parts numbers added.