I followed this process: 

 

 

and used the following supplies: 

 

3M 5200 fast cure adhesive, 4412N Adhesive tape, 2” wide, and a 8mm valve stem from Rocky Mountain ATV.

The 8mm valve stem requires no drilling of the rim

 

 

 

I allowed the 5200 adhesive to fully cure for about 3 days

In order to apply the tape without holding the wheel, I installed it in the swing arm. This allowed me to use both hands while installing the tape.

For the valve stem, I used a socket to cut out a circular portion of the tape.

After installing and tightening the valve stem, I added some additional adhesive.

Lastly, installed a fresh Motoz Rallz. I used the “zip tie” method for the first time, 5 minutes to install. Easiest motorcycle tire I’ve ever installed. Plenty of YouTube videos on this method. My one mistake was where I located the “head” of the zip tie - I couldn’t release the straps and had the cut them. Lesson learned.

 

I have been checking air pressure and am losing about 1 psi/week. I don’t think that is too bad. I’ll take that, vs. changing a rear tube in the boonies.

 

cheers

I did almost the same thing a year and a half and 20000  miles ago: couldn’t get 2’ tape, used 1.5 inch and doubled it up. Ran a motoz gps to 10K, then around 4000 on a rallz, then 6k on a tractionator. Just installed another tractionator.  Plugged the GPS once for a nail. One recommendation I’d make is to tension spokes before converting.

@sracer agree and good point on checking spoke tension before applying the 5200 to the nipples.

 

I also ran the Motoz GPS rear (in 50/50 direction). Great tread wear, and surprisingly good traction off-road when aired down. I paired it with a Dual Venture front with good results on a BDR. IMO the GPS rear hits it’s limit in steeper wet terrain. As such, after 4k miles I decided to try the Rallz rear to maximize my chances of success when operating at my personal limits off road. I would be inclined to put the GPS back on for an extended road trip though. The only downside to the Rallz rear so far is the noise. Tires are always a trade off especially with only one bike in the stable.

Thanks, this is great info, I plan to do it at my next tire change.

On 8/7/2023 at 2:40 PM, RideID said:

Lastly, installed a fresh Motoz Rallz. I used the “zip tie” method for the first time, 5 minutes to install. Easiest motorcycle tire I’ve ever installed. Plenty of YouTube videos on this method. My one mistake was where I located the “head” of the zip tie - I couldn’t release the straps and had the cut them. Lesson learned.

 

I have been checking air pressure and am losing about 1 psi/week. I don’t think that is too bad. I’ll take that, vs. changing a rear tube in the boonies.

 

cheers

Still holding air? Thinking about doing the same.

@Tseven No leaks! I was losing a little pressure for a couple of weeks right after I did the tubeless conversion, and then the slow leak stopped. Not sure if the tire seated on the rim a little better, or adhesive cured, or what. I still recommend this tubeless conversion method.

very interesting

On 6/15/2024 at 1:34 PM, RideID said:

@Tseven No leaks! I was losing a little pressure for a couple of weeks right after I did the tubeless conversion, and then the slow leak stopped. Not sure if the tire seated on the rim a little better, or adhesive cured, or what. I still recommend this tubeless conversion method.

Are you riding mainly pavement? Curious how it would hold off-road.

@Tseven I ride a mix but have ridden plenty off road after the conversion including the AZBDR in April, no issues

@RideID last questions.. lol did you torque the spokes before? how do you plan on adjusting the spokes if they need adjustment?

@Tseven no problem. I checked to make sure there were no loose spokes before proceeding. Not super concerned about adjusting in the future for a couple of reasons - 1) I don’t really expect to have issues with loose spokes in the future based on past experience and not really finding any that were of concern when I checked them and 2) if for some reason I do need to do any adjusting, the tape should still provide a seal if the adhesive breaks away when the spoke nipples are turned.

 

my best advice is to take your time, make sure everything is clean, allow the adhesive to cure etc. The video at the beginning of this thread is very helpful, just follow it and you will be fine. Feel free to PM me if you need help.