Eight Day AMA/Edelweiss Alps Tour

[jdub53]

My T7 was resting at home while I spent time on one of Yamaha's excellent 2023 Tracer 900 GT+ bikes, but I just completed riding 1,696 kms on it through the Italian, Swiss and French Alps as part of the American Motorcyclist Association (AMA) / Edelweiss Alps Challenge II tour and, with a suggestion from @AZJW, thought I'd provide a write-up of both the tour and the Tracer for anyone interested. 

 

Edelweiss's five-day Stelvio Pass self-guided tour I'd ridden with three friends in September 2018 had been one of the top highlights of my motorcycling experiences which began in 1972 as a 12 year old, and once that decades-long Alps riding goal had been checked off my bucket list I wasn't sure if I'd ever do another. I then began reading in the pages of American Motorcyclist magazine about the AMA / Edelweiss Challenge tour ventures, and my interest began anew. Having retired from a very diverse 43-year career in aviation maintenance at the end of 2021, I figured I now had plenty of time to indulge my special interests a bit.

 

After reading with interest in 2022 the American Motorcyclist stories about the Challenge I and II second year tours, as well as the additional Challenge III planned for 2023, I contacted several friends, including those from the 2018 ride, to gauge their interest. I'd already decided I was going to do the Challenge II ride, and after I provided them with the AMA's magazine stories and details of the tours from the Edelweiss website, I was pleased when two of the 2018 group riders responded with enthusiasm. Dave, the impetus behind our 2018 Alps ride and who had the fortitude to bicycle solo across the U.S. several years ago, signed up with his fiancee Billie for the tour. Tony, a former roadracer who had created and owns a unique used motorcycle business, also signed up along with his wife Tammy to ride as pillion.

 

Expensive (but well worth it   ) T-shirt:

 

 

We all arrived in Milan a day early for some sightseeing, and to get over any jet lag prior to the tour start. Coincidentally and unbeknownst to each other, Tony and I had both selected Yamaha's new Tracer 900 GT+ (currently unavailable in the U.S.) as rentals, while Dave opted for a BMW R1250RT. Based upon our previous Alps ride in cooler September temps, and because we're all equipped to ride pretty much year round at home in south central Pennsylvania, once given access to the bikes we attached wiring harnesses for our heated jacket liners to each bike's battery. Little did we know that was an unnecessary exercise, as the temperatures for this mid-August tour never dropped low enough to don the jacket liners even without plugging them in.

 

 

As the whole group convened for introductions and a tour briefing prior to dinner at our Milan hotel the first evening, the PA Five (as I'd labeled our subgroup) met the others whom we'd soon get to know and enjoy. The enthusiasm of the four participants from Japan - Arai and Kaz as riders plus Noriko and Hisako as their passengers, respectively - was quickly evident in their greeting and smiles. This event would be the 30^th Edelweiss tour for Charlie from Miami; even more notable because he was doing all three of the 2023 AMA Edelweiss Challenge rides back-to-back and he'd just come off the first tour only two days before. Mitch was the AMA representative on this tour in his role as editor of American Motorcyclist magazine. With his long career in the motorcycle industry, including with American Honda and as long-time editor of Motorcyclist magazine, I'd looked forward to finally meeting and riding with Mitch. I should mention it was Mitch's detailed description of the 2022 Challenge II ride within the pages of American Motorcyclist, especially the group's fondue dinner near the end of that tour, that pushed me over the edge in deciding it was time for another Alps ride. Funny perhaps how that small detail had such an influence on me, but it turned out to be a great decision as the fondue dinner the group enjoyed in Chamonix, at the foot of Mont Blanc in France, was one of the trip's many highlights. Unfortunately, Mitch had developed severe back pain a day prior at the end of the Challenge I tour, which greatly hindered his mobility and forced him to leave the group midway through this tour. As I found though when chasing one of our tour guides and Mitch one day through a spirited section near the Italian/Swiss border, his ailment didn't seem to affect his ability to ride in a very energetic manner. After observing at one point the coincidence of Mitch and I both wearing the same helmet (Shoei Neotec 2), jacket (Klim Carlsbad) and riding pants (Aerostich Darien), I was a bit relieved to then note we each wore different boots. Apparently, we weren't twins separated at birth after all.

 

Wrapping up the group were our outstanding Edelweiss tour guides; Wim from Belgium and Michael from Germany, who took turns riding as group leader each day while the other drove the Edelweiss van containing our luggage and a spare motorcycle for his riding during the two rest days. These gentlemen were, of course, experts at all aspects of their jobs, efficiently watching over their flock in a manner which prompted me to ask Michael one day how it felt to be a shepherd of motorcyclists.

 

 

From the first time I swung a leg over my rental Tracer 900, it felt like a perfect fit and the bike impressed me more each time I rode it. While traversing the very first set of Alps switchbacks I detected some wallowing when powering out of each corner, but toggling through the Mode button near my right thumb instantly fixed that by switching from Street to Sport mode with its stiffer damping settings. One day we transited a riding section over some 'goat trails' near the top of a pass with narrow and broken pavement, which I loved as it reminded me of some roads back home. Toggling back to Street mode provided relief from the stiff Sport mode, which was a bit punishing there and was affecting my ability to hold a selected line when approaching corners. Once out of the rough stuff, back to Sport mode.

Later, during a stop at a red light (rare where we were riding), the suspension damping differences between these two modes was confirmed when I noted almost no fork or shock compression in Sport mode while bouncing on the seat and then holding the front brake and trying to compress the front end. Then I changed to Street mode, and after giving the suspension a few seconds to adjust I tried it again and the softened settings allowed more travel at each end. When we got back into the mountains and hit the twisties at a spirited pace once again, I again noted some wallowing in Street mode and so stayed in Sport mode for 99% of our riding. For normal riding at home, Street mode would be my all-around choice most of the time.

 

 

While riding wet roads one morning during a bit of rain (the only rain of the trip), I selected Rain mode and right away noted how the throttle response was softened along with the suspension damping (throttle change was much more evident than Rain mode on my old Wethead R1200GS). While I believe this Rain mode would be very welcome when riding in hard rain and accompanying reduced traction conditions, that mode made it more difficult to keep up with those in front of me that morning so I soon changed modes again. The ability to easily select between each of these modes and then feel/benefit from the distinct handling and performance changes each offer is a testament to Yamaha's design and execution on this bike.

 

Several times, I also inadvertently experienced the Tracer's radar-assisted braking 'feature'. It was often necessary to quickly pass one or two cars and then tuck in behind another while braking very hard to set up for the next switchback (gotta love Alps riding!). While the excellent and fade-free brakes always hauled me down very quickly, the radar noted my fast approach to the car ahead with the TFT display momentarily turning orange along with a car symbol and a large exclamation point (caught by my peripheral vision each time). Twice when this happened it also felt like the bike slightly changed front-to-rear attitude before I let off the brakes (something I read later about the radar changing damping in those conditions), and once I believe ABS cycled momentarily which I wouldn't doubt considering how hard I was braking. Whatever was going on under me, the bike remained 100% composed and never made me wonder "what the hell was that?". I'm not saying whatever happened was necessary, but it didn't hurt. BTW, the sound emitted from the Triple whether at idle (a very pleasing burble) or wide open when passing and repeatedly tapping the quick shifter (a wonderful howl) is downright intoxicating.

 

 

My friend on the other two-up GT+, who used to do endurance roadracing, was equally impressed with the bike's braking even when we were doing long descents with constant switchbacks. By contrast, when I swapped bikes for a couple of hours one afternoon and rode a rental KTM 890 Adv S in those same conditions its front discs started overheating and distorting to the point I was getting feedback (shuddering) through the bars and chatter at the front end. When we stopped to switch back and I mentioned this, the KTM renter and both tour guides just smiled knowingly and said "we've all felt the same thing on the 890. Its brakes aren't up to this type of riding like the Tracer's. We like the Tracer". The last time I rode my cousin's 890 Adv R two months ago I noted his front discs were also slightly warped, and when I mentioned it he said he'd just gotten used to it and that he'd read that was not uncommon on the 890s (!?!?). 

 

 

BTW, I was very pleased that my rental GT+ was wearing Bridgestone's excellent T32 tires (I've read all GT+s are delivered new with these), which I'm also running on my R1200RT (actually T32GTs on the RT). The T32s offer light steering (much better than the heavy-steering effort Michelin PR4GTs my RT came with) and are confidence inspiring all the way to the edges in a variety of temps and grip very well in the wet.

 

This was also the first time I've used a quick shifter and, after a couple of hours in the saddle when I finally remembering the Tracer had one, I was giggling at the ability to quickly bang up and down through the gears between switchbacks with no clutch usage and while holding the throttle open. “Addictive” in those conditions was the word that kept coming to mind. After maneuvering the bike around numerous parking areas by hand during the week, it felt much lighter to me than it's claimed 491-pound wet weight. By the end of the tour, based upon its comfort, power, smoothness, sound, handling, suspension, ride modes, etc., both Tony and I agreed the Tracer 900 GT+ is a winner. His wife was very comfortable riding as pillion while using the OEM top box as a backrest, and Tony said they both liked it better than his Super Tenere they currently use for two-up. Although I very much like my R1200RT, I asked Tony to see what kind of deal his Yamaha dealer buddy would give if we bought a pair of Tracers from him when they become available in the U.S. later this year.

 

Mont Blanc view from my hotel room in Chamonix:

 

 

Although I had a lot of fun during my first exposure to Alps while riding the self-guided tour in 2018 – when it felt like all of the twisty road riding I'd done to that point in my life had just been practice for the 'varsity' roads of the Alps – this guided tour took things to another level. It was a refreshing change from my usual riding; no GPS screen to consult, no determining on a map where I was and where I wanted to go next, but instead just following the rider in front of me and knowing the great riding which awaited plus anticipating the excellent beer, food and conversation at that evening's hotel. Having all of the logistics handled by Edelweiss allowed each participant to just enjoy everything else. I greatly enjoyed riding the pristine tight, curvy roads as well as the few minor roads, and the endless spectacular scenery was awe inspiring. Seeing, and being one of, the people from three different parts of the world riding and enjoying motorcycles together was a special experience I'll never forget. If you ever have the opportunity to ride in the Alps, do it!

 

One day's picnic lunch courtesy of Edelweiss:

 

[Tenerider]

Thanks for the great write-up, especially the details on the Tracer!

I think I need to ride one. It seems to me I've completely underestimated this bike, has never really been on my radar yet.

[jdub53]

2 hours ago, Tenerider said:

Thanks for the great write-up, especially the details on the Tracer!

I think I need to ride one. It seems to me I've completely underestimated this bike, has never really been on my radar yet.

 

Perhaps it's not just a coincidence as they both come from the same manufacturer, but just like I felt after buying my T7 I thought of the Tracer "this is one of the best motorcycles I've ever ridden". I've owned bikes from eight different manufacturers over the years and the T7 was my first Yamaha, but it caused me to get rid of my R1200GS as the GS was just collecting dust in the corner after the T7 arrived. Well done once again Yamaha.

Edited September 2, 2023 by jdub53

[Hollybrook]

Awesome trip and report!  Thanks for sharing. 

 

I've been an AMA member for over 50 years and have always wanted to do one of the Edelweiss Alps tours. It sure sounds like a great experience. 

 

I thought the T7 would be my all around bike, so I bought a spare wheel set to have street and dirt tires mounted and only have to change wheels when going on a different ride. The Tracer 9 GT+ has captured my imagination as a different way to do some street rides. Having spent some time on a friend's MT-09 and seeing the reviews of the Tracer leaves me wanting a ride on one. 

 

Ian from Big Rock Moto bought a MT-09 SP and is converting it to a sport touring bike. That is another interesting option. 

Edited September 2, 2023 by Hollybrook

[jdub53]

 

7 minutes ago, Hollybrook said:

Awesome trip and report!  Thanks for sharing. 

 

I've been an AMA member for over 50 years and have always wanted to do one of the Edelweiss Alps tours. It sure sounds like a great experience. 

 

I thought the T7 would be my all around bike, so I bought a spare wheel set to have street and dirt tires mounted and only have to change wheels when going on a different ride. The Tracer 9 GT+ has captured my imagination as a different way to do some street rides. Having spent some time on a friend's MT-09 and seeing the reviews of the Tracer leaves me wanting a ride on one. 

 

Ian from Big Rock Moto bought a MT-09 SP and is converting it to a sport touring bike. That is another interesting option. 

 

The AMA / Edelweiss tours run back-to-back in August, while the 2018 self-guided tour my friends and I did began in early September. We'd selected September specifically because we hoped there would be less traffic then, and also that the temps would be a bit cooler (because no Edelweiss guides are involved, you conveniently pick your own dates for their self-guided tours. Edelweiss makes all of your hotel reservations based upon the dates and the tour you choose, and has your motorcycles ready for pick-up on that date at their touring center in Mieming, Austria along with your route map and an optional rental pre-loaded GPS if so desired).

 

This year's August tour definitely had more traffic than our 2018 ride, and while it was still comfortable at altitude in the mountains the temps at lower elevations where some of the hotels were located hit around the 100 degree F mark so it was indeed hot. The last pic above of the Tracer's TFT screen was just before I turned off the key for the final time after arriving at our last hotel in Varese, Italy, where the air temp was an indicated 41 deg. C (105.8 F). I understand that was unusual as a heat wave was gripping the area, but just something to consider if planning a trip.

[AZJW]

@jdub53 Excellent!   Sounds like a great time and immerse experience to say the least. Bummer Mitch had back issues cut his playtime short,  sadly I and many others have had to make that agonizing decision to save the body by bowing out early of a ride. 

 

The Tracer sounds like a great street bike, but if I had one, it would probably suffer the same fate as my FJR in that too many off road excursions would cause hard parts to fall off. Still, that triple would be intoxicating......

 

Thanks for the write-up, I enjoyed living vicariously through your experience was great , but not enough food/ beer pics!

[jdub53]

Ask and ye shall receive, JW!  

 

When in France, one must have French Onion soup.

 

 

Followed by Fettucini with shrimp:

 

 

Delivery of many Fondue pots for our long table:

 

 

Excellent grilled-to-order sausage sandwiches for lunch on an Italian pass:

 

 

Spinach ravioli (and beer) for dinner in Italy:

 

 

Celebratory round of cold beer upon hotel arrival after a hot first day of riding.

 

 

 

Which was even better after the second day of riding once inside the hotel:

 

 

Who knew that KTM 1290SAs made a perfect perch for stirring your espresso?

 

Edited September 3, 2023 by jdub53

[AZJW]

It looks like the spinach ravioli and beer were worth the trip alone.  Nothing like a string of food porn to make us envious of your adventure! 

[Boondocker]

@jdub53 Thanks for reporting your trip. Mrs. Boondocker and I have had the great fortune to do 2 Edelweiss tours, the High Alpine in 2014 and the Pyrenees Extreme in 2018, both 2-up. So I can relate to your adventure with admiration and no small amount of jealousy.  So glad you got to do it. Our experiences were fantastic and I'd love to do another one.