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HP Corse High-Mount Exhaust installed


Boondocker

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HP Corse High-Mount Exhaust – Yes, there are cheaper high-mount exhausts. Yes, I ordered in July and received in October. The factory in Italy will build your exhaust when they’re damn good and well ready, and it will be excellent! Forum vendor BellissiMoto.com <HP CORSE SP-1 SHORT Titanium Exhaust for Yamaha Tenere 700 (High Mount) (bellissimoto.com)> was my vendor for the HP Corse exhaust. Installation was suspiciously easy. Everything just fit right, welds and finish are beautiful. I want to figure out a spark arrestor for it, a subject that has been broached on this forum but not to my knowledge resolved.

 

BonusSound! Say, that is a lovely exhaust note! I was perfectly fine with the Yamaha OEM muffler sound, but the HP Corse is quite pleasing to my ear. I detest loud/obnoxious exhausts and this is not. A decibel or two louder maybe but fair trade for throatier, resonant, slightly barky with a more pronounced pop on deceleration.

 

Suspiciously easy may describe the exhaust mounting, but as is usually the case with modifications, one thing leads to another. In the case of high-mount exhausts, rear turn signal location is an issue. Being the Yamaha fanboy that I am, I’m perfectly fine with the stock rear fender and generally enamored with the “Yamaha Lollipops” that are on all 3 of my Yamahas. The Tenere 700 right-rear signal location doesn’t play nice with this high-mount exhaust. Nor can the OEM units simply be relocated due to a lack of alternative space and the overly complex attaching method.

 

Stock light in the danger zone.

HighExhaustOEMsignal.jpg.6a19861bef3dbdca2b1daadf8f489cba.jpg

 

I figured it wouldn’t hurt to try “insulating” the light with aluminized tape but that didn’t work. The adhesive melted, then the light housing melted. The light still worked though!

Meltage happens

HighExhaustOEMsignalmelted.jpg.c1ebc0348f0d72b07db8cb36c53f155f.jpg

 

I searched for replacements that could be mounted in the available location and settled on Suzuki DR650 turn signals. Now if you don’t think Yamaha OEM signal lights are pretty, then you may think the DR650’s are even less so. At least I owned a DR650 for several years and it was a stud. Besides, my fashion sense is sub-par, so I’m OK with these little beauties – because they work! With a little drilling, dremeling (you always have to use a Dremel Tool – you just do.) and some simple wiring (black is ground) – Bob’s your Uncle!

 

wires and stuff

HighExhaustDR650signalwiring.jpg.d9679c3e2752874e57a60f2fc64a056d.jpg

I fashioned a little cover plate from Kydex glued over the original mounting holes and no one will ever know.

 

side view

HighExhaustDR650signalside.jpg.5fd4f9c78bf335ab94f53bfde3469669.jpg

Might even leave the silver tape on 'cause blingy.

 

hot exhaust danger zone averted

HighExhaustDR650signalrear_2.jpg.5ab0f82c823bfe3fbe5033f7247e52a8.jpg

Bonus - tool tube now has a sense of symmetry. See, told you I have fashion sense.

Had to relocate the license plate bracket down a bit to clear the lights. Could be tighter but will rock these makeshift brackets for now.

 

Unfortunately, the DR650 signal light has a weakness. The threaded metal mounting shaft that fits into the rubber stalk (wires pass through this part) can be pulled out of the stalk by over-tightening a mounting nut. I was aware of this potential problem from a buyer comment (complaint) and thought I could avoid over tightening. Don’t know how much torque it can take, but I gave it too much, so I took it all apart, shoved the shaft back in the stalk with some super glue and put it back together, this time with a lock washer. Hopefully that will provide enough tension to keep the light from rotating. If it fails again, will have to find a more robust solution. 

 

I have 700-miles on this setup, lights work and no melting.

 

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  • 3 weeks later...

Nice post.   Thinking of adding this to my bike, but the issue of the spark arrestor is one i dont have an answer too.   Have you found one that works?

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Why not remove the tail tidy and fix the signals properly from the back? I also have a HPCorse, and went with an Aliexpress tail tidy, grinded of the signal tabs and made new L-Brackets to hold the signals in a lower position. Looks clean and sort of OEM+, the tailtidy even came with a nicer LED plate light which matched the bike better.

 

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Edited by ScorpionT16
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44 minutes ago, ScorpionT16 said:

Why not remove the tail tidy and fix the signals properly from the back? I also have a HPCorse, and went with an Aliexpress tail tidy, grinded of the signal tabs and made new L-Brackets to hold the signals in a lower position. Looks clean and sort of OEM+, the tailtidy even came with a nicer LED plate light which matched the bike better.

 

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Very nice work, you must have a bender! How does that Aliexpress tail tidy look with preventing dirt from getting in area's it shouldn't? Is it a strong steel one? I was leaning towards the Tusk tail tidy design as the Ali ones look quite plain with the sheet metal bending vs a J Tech, Tusk, or Camel.

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45 minutes ago, RiderEh said:

Very nice work, you must have a bender! How does that Aliexpress tail tidy look with preventing dirt from getting in area's it shouldn't? Is it a strong steel one? I was leaning towards the Tusk tail tidy design as the Ali ones look quite plain with the sheet metal bending vs a J Tech, Tusk, or Camel.

 

Thank you, I actually just used an Aluminum L-Angle, then used a dremel to remove the sides. Followed by some sanding and spray paint. Def use a thick piece of Alu for rigidity. The tail tidy has been great so far, it is very thick steel and a simple enough design. The hardware it comes with is a little soft, though that can be changed. It's worth getting just for the nicer Tenere700 branded LED light it comes with, which can be used on any other tail tidy. 

 

No tail tidy will be as good as the OEM one for keeping dirt off the back. For under $35cad, I took the chance on the Ali one, it does leave a bit of gap at the bottom where the it mounts to the bike. I think only the R&G Tail tidy prevents that gap, though it requires cutting the OEM one at that part as its where the grab handles are. 

 

The most annoying part of this setup was getting the ADVspec luggage racks to work, needed to make a new bracket that goes onto the passanger footpeg so it doesn't hit the mid pipe. 

Edited by ScorpionT16
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Our forum vendor, @Camel ADV offers a drop in link pipe spark arrestor for under $20.

 

 


You wanted it, now we have them! We're happy to introduce our drop-in spark arrestor for Camel ADV's T7 High Exhaust kit.  This spark arrestor insert drops into the muffler's inlet and is retained when the link pipe is slid into...

 

 

"Men do not quit playing because they grow old, they grow old because they quit playing" Oliver Wendell Holmes - Mods - HDB handguards, Camel-ADV Gut guard, 1 finger clutch, The Fix pedal & Rally pipe, RR side/tail rack, RR 90nm spring & Headlight guard, Rally seat, OEM heated grips- stablemate Beta 520RS

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Concerning the spark arrestor - I bot the Camel Adv 51mm to go with my Huzar hi mount exhaust. It fits perfect into the muffler on the mid pipe side. I believe there is a comment in the forum as to the inside diameter of the HP Corse exhaust. 

Here are a couple pics of my Huzar. The arrestor goes in about 40cm .

Dave

sparkarrestorinserted.jpeg

sparkarrestorprelim.jpeg

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  • 5 weeks later...

I just purchased the hp corse enduro ti short with enduro pipe. I am now considering headers to loose the weight of the cat. Thinking black widow or dominator to save funds for other projects and bc 2wheeldynoworks says style of header didnt make much of any performance diff. Any reason to choose black widow over dominator or the other way around?

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There are limitless ways to get around the HP Course indicator fouling, you just have to pick one you're happy with.  I'm not a fan of modding things like indicators but once my job was done I admitted  it improved the look.

 

indi-06.jpg.b95f0b689e5572bd6ec70680f10353b1.jpg

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I ended up going with the Dominator headers. If the combo of decat headers and hp course titanium short is a little loud what do you think would be the easiest way to tame it down a touch?

Winddown, I think my cyclops rear blinkers are very nearly as high as yours so hoping for no mods needed there.

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