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Who uses t700 for comuting


Beano05
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Im still yet to buy one of these beasts. I do a daily commute of 125k round trip to work (all tar)

Anyone use their bikes for this?

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Hey Mate, I've got 4,700 kms on the clock,  Sydney based and do a 25kms commute round trip from Eastern Suburbs to CBD...wish the commute was longer..:-) All general commute based needs are handled brilliantly by the T700. Filtering, quick off at the lights, comfort, height, visibility, being seen etc...plus I'm about to fit a 19" front tyre as I do 95% of my riding on the roads which should enhance the already highly responsive handling. Only bummer around town and at low speed and low gears is the snatchy throttle which is well documented on many modern bikes and not specific to the T700. I'm looking at a throttle tamer when a T700 specific one becomes available. Only other consideration is seat height depending on your inseam. I'm 6" and could flat foot comfortably however went for 30mm lowering bones as I wanted the rally seat which adds approx 35mm in height over stock. All said it's a brilliant machine....needs some tweaking based on your priorities..road or dirt however the base platform is truly superb. Happy to answer any other questions you may have. Be safe!



 

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It's a brilliant commuter bike (in addition to everything else).

 

Light and moves around very easily and through the traffic. Comfy, punchy and real-world fast as anything else. Smooth, good on fuel. Mirrors work. Nice and narrow. Good wind protection, lights are amazing etc.

 

Throttle is super smooth if you ask me. It just needs the slack taking out at the cam on the left hand side under the tank. It fuels completely flawlessly when you do that, at least on my bike.

 

The only downside is that is a tall bike. That's OK for me as I'm tall, but it can be fixed easily by pushing forks up through the triples and getting a dog-bone lowering kit.

 

Rich

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What @Rich TT said! 👍 🙂

 

I use mine fairly regularly for the commute, saves me about and hour a day on the journey time!

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On 4/21/2020 at 2:53 AM, Ride & Shine said:

Hey Mate, I've got 4,700 kms on the clock,  Sydney based and do a 25kms commute round trip from Eastern Suburbs to CBD...wish the commute was longer..:-) All general commute based needs are handled brilliantly by the T700. Filtering, quick off at the lights, comfort, height, visibility, being seen etc...plus I'm about to fit a 19" front tyre as I do 95% of my riding on the roads which should enhance the already highly responsive handling. Only bummer around town and at low speed and low gears is the snatchy throttle which is well documented on many modern bikes and not specific to the T700. I'm looking at a throttle tamer when a T700 specific one becomes available. Only other consideration is seat height depending on your inseam. I'm 6" and could flat foot comfortably however went for 30mm lowering bones as I wanted the rally seat which adds approx 35mm in height over stock. All said it's a brilliant machine....needs some tweaking based on your priorities..road or dirt however the base platform is truly superb. Happy to answer any other questions you may have. Be safe!



 

Did you try to take the slack from the cable out, that reduces snatchy throttle a lot 🙂

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Hi Aleksander,
Yep tried that within the first week. Took up a little with no luck and then a bit more...made a very slight difference but not much. Also have an aftermarket Akra can too which made no difference although the reasoning for fitting it were not to do with throttle snatch. Two scenarios where it's most noticeable and annoying are on slow, low gear tight maneuvers say around a small roundabout or on a bumpy road where the throttle hand is jerking up and down and snatching the throttle on the down stroke....really annoying and potentially dangerous in the wet. I'm feathering the clutch a lot more than I'm used to and rarely have it all the way out when riding around town or traffic; this appears to be the only way to soften the impact. Other than this issue I absolutely love this machine!

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22 hours ago, Ride & Shine said:

Hi Aleksander,
Yep tried that within the first week. Took up a little with no luck and then a bit more...made a very slight difference but not much. Also have an aftermarket Akra can too which made no difference although the reasoning for fitting it were not to do with throttle snatch. Two scenarios where it's most noticeable and annoying are on slow, low gear tight maneuvers say around a small roundabout or on a bumpy road where the throttle hand is jerking up and down and snatching the throttle on the down stroke....really annoying and potentially dangerous in the wet. I'm feathering the clutch a lot more than I'm used to and rarely have it all the way out when riding around town or traffic; this appears to be the only way to soften the impact. Other than this issue I absolutely love this machine!

The snatchy throttle is a byproduct of intake restriction. You will likely have the Uniflow air filter provided by Yamaha and somewhere in your box of bits will be the original filter. Temporarily fit the original filter and see if the snatchiness goes away.

Another solution is to cut some of the inner snorkel off to help it breath.

I run the MWR air filter and airbox lid which breath a LOT better than the OEM filter, and the throttle response is buttery smooth. I also have a Uniflow prefilter (note PRE-filter) and original snorkel that I can easily fit if riding in dust or with other riders (note with prefilter and main filter it starts to get some snatchiness again). Can highly recommend this setup.

The MWR filter looks identical to the one sold by Off-the-road in Germany, and that one is cheaper with ex VAT and cheap delivery.

https://tstindustries.com/mwr-performance-air-filter-yamaha-fz-07-mt-07-2015.html

https://www.off-the-road.de/en/700-Tenere/Wear-parts/Filter/OTR-foam-air-filter-kit-Yamaha-Tenere-700.html?listtype=search&searchparam=Tenere 700 air filter

https://fz07.org/thread/7572/new-mwr-filtercover-breaks-cover/

Edited by TimeMachine
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52 minutes ago, TimeMachine said:

The snatchy throttle is a byproduct of intake restriction. You will likely have the Uniflow air filter provided by Yamaha and somewhere in your box of bits will be the original filter. Temporarily fit the original filter and see if the snatchiness goes away.

Another solution is to cut some of the inner snorkel off to help it breath.

I run the MWR air filter and airbox lid which breath a LOT better than the OEM filter, and the throttle response is buttery smooth. I also have a Uniflow prefilter (note PRE-filter) and original snorkel that I can easily fit if riding in dust or with other riders (note with prefilter and main filter it starts to get some snatchiness again). Can highly recommend this setup.

The MWR filter looks identical to the one sold by Off-the-road in Germany, and that one is cheaper with ex VAT and cheap delivery.

https://tstindustries.com/mwr-performance-air-filter-yamaha-fz-07-mt-07-2015.html

https://www.off-the-road.de/en/700-Tenere/Wear-parts/Filter/OTR-foam-air-filter-kit-Yamaha-Tenere-700.html?listtype=search&searchparam=Tenere 700 air filter

https://fz07.org/thread/7572/new-mwr-filtercover-breaks-cover/

This is a bit of highjacking the thread and I apologise... Admin might move this into tuning cp2 thread. 

I've got a question for the filter from off the road in Germany : would this fit with no snorkel and how would it fix inside the air box.

Cheers Aleks 

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Just now, Aleksandar13 said:

This is a bit of highjacking the thread and I apologise... Admin might move this into tuning cp2 thread. 

I've got a question for the filter from off the road in Germany : would this fit with no snorkel and how would it fix inside the air box.

Cheers Aleks 

Fits inside the airbox fine and can run the original lid with snorkel, but the best gains would be to use the MWR airbox lid. Check out the size of the inlet that matches the opening of the air filter. I have this fitted on my T7. Will take a photo tomorrow in the daylight.MC_095_13_kopie.jpg.119b5cbb3daba491de1dcc2f2484f34b.jpg

 

MWR air filter

APxjuTqh.jpg.11470c46f38b0f5f83180e9399e805e5.jpg

 

This is the DNA airbox lid that you could also use if you cant find the MWR lid.

VKLdZ4Uh.jpg.f04645f5854fc887f303bbc67fe77aaa.jpg 

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1 minute ago, TimeMachine said:

Fits inside the airbox fine and can run the original lid with snorkel, but the best gains would be to use the MWR airbox lid. Check out the size of the inlet that matches the opening of the air filter. I have this fitted on my T7. Will take a photo tomorrow in the daylight.MC_095_13_kopie.jpg.119b5cbb3daba491de1dcc2f2484f34b.jpg

 

MWR air filter

APxjuTqh.jpg.11470c46f38b0f5f83180e9399e805e5.jpg

 

This is the DNA airbox lid that you could also use if you cant find the MWR lid.

VKLdZ4Uh.jpg.f04645f5854fc887f303bbc67fe77aaa.jpg 

Could you please measure up the lid internals and let me know... I would like to make the lid at work laser cut aluminium maybe and put a nice smooth edge on the internal face.... I have facility to make this for free and wouldn't want to spend 80 pounds on a plastic plate if I can make it. 

Would appreciate any help. 

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Just now, Aleksandar13 said:

Could you please measure up the lid internals and let me know... I would like to make the lid at work laser cut aluminium maybe and put a nice smooth edge on the internal face.... I have facility to make this for free and wouldn't want to spend 80 pounds on a plastic plate if I can make it. 

Would appreciate any help. 

I read them as 56.5mm by 87.2mm. 

 

20200425_233258.thumb.jpg.0f67dc5c3d2a964144a6f1fd1f66e018.jpg

1084638884_Airboxlidholelong.jpg.831dcd91bf18f854e896231b06afb5cd.jpg

1736521270_Airboxlidholeshort.thumb.jpg.b9ccd04f499b63e43bbca751d2afcef1.jpg

 

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Uniflow Prefilter fitted to the OEM snorkel and lid. I would fit this instead of the WMR lid on dusty rides, and retain the WMR main filter.

 

Prefilter.thumb.jpg.440392a9997afa7c5048c30a0a6f1213.jpg

Prefilter2.thumb.jpg.8f446686565166e7ed89226e66954ec9.jpg

 

Inner snorkel trimmed to 18mm.

Prefilter3.thumb.jpg.6700a52044fd3f5e1ba71854d50f84b9.jpg

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1 hour ago, TimeMachine said:

I read them as 56.5mm by 87.2mm. 

 

20200425_233258.thumb.jpg.0f67dc5c3d2a964144a6f1fd1f66e018.jpg

1084638884_Airboxlidholelong.jpg.831dcd91bf18f854e896231b06afb5cd.jpg

1736521270_Airboxlidholeshort.thumb.jpg.b9ccd04f499b63e43bbca751d2afcef1.jpg

 

Fantastic thank you so much... 🙂

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On 4/25/2020 at 10:21 PM, TimeMachine said:

The snatchy throttle is a byproduct of intake restriction. You will likely have the Uniflow air filter provided by Yamaha and somewhere in your box of bits will be the original filter. Temporarily fit the original filter and see if the snatchiness goes away.

Another solution is to cut some of the inner snorkel off to help it breath.

I run the MWR air filter and airbox lid which breath a LOT better than the OEM filter, and the throttle response is buttery smooth. I also have a Uniflow prefilter (note PRE-filter) and original snorkel that I can easily fit if riding in dust or with other riders (note with prefilter and main filter it starts to get some snatchiness again). Can highly recommend this setup.

The MWR filter looks identical to the one sold by Off-the-road in Germany, and that one is cheaper with ex VAT and cheap delivery.

https://tstindustries.com/mwr-performance-air-filter-yamaha-fz-07-mt-07-2015.html

https://www.off-the-road.de/en/700-Tenere/Wear-parts/Filter/OTR-foam-air-filter-kit-Yamaha-Tenere-700.html?listtype=search&searchparam=Tenere 700 air filter

https://fz07.org/thread/7572/new-mwr-filtercover-breaks-cover/

Hey Time Machine.....finally a plausible reason for the snatchiness that makes perfect sense....thanks for sharing your knowledge and experience!

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1 hour ago, Ride & Shine said:

Hey Time Machine.....finally a plausible reason for the snatchiness that makes perfect sense....thanks for sharing your knowledge and experience!

Maybe some bikes run different than others as mine is buttery smooth and no issues whatsoever, but I have done the following:

 

Taken all the slack out of the throttle cable

Run the highest octane super-unleaded always. Tesco is 97 or 98 octane.

Have a Max Torque Can (no baffle) since it was 10 miles old

 

Rich

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4 hours ago, Rich TT said:

Maybe some bikes run different than others as mine is buttery smooth and no issues whatsoever, but I have done the following:

 

Taken all the slack out of the throttle cable

Run the highest octane super-unleaded always. Tesco is 97 or 98 octane.

Have a Max Torque Can (no baffle) since it was 10 miles old

 

Rich

Mine is all good after doing the same as you but I still find it snatch with thicker gloves 🙂

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I commute on mine, but only about 40-45km round trip. I'd call it a competent commuter. It's certainly not the best... Previously I was commuting on a Honda VFR. The VFR I  think was superior in every way except riding position. The up right riding position of the T7 is nice.

 

But at the end of the day the VFR is a road bike and the T7 is not a road bike... so naturally it handles better

 

Also the T7 handle bars are mirror height with 4wds and utes - which everyone has these days. It's a terrible bike for filtering.

 

 

 

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On 4/25/2020 at 11:24 PM, TimeMachine said:

Fits inside the airbox fine and can run the original lid with snorkel, but the best gains would be to use the MWR airbox lid. Check out the size of the inlet that matches the opening of the air filter. I have this fitted on my T7. Will take a photo tomorrow in the daylight.MC_095_13_kopie.jpg.119b5cbb3daba491de1dcc2f2484f34b.jpg

 

MWR air filter

APxjuTqh.jpg.11470c46f38b0f5f83180e9399e805e5.jpg

 

This is the DNA airbox lid that you could also use if you cant find the MWR lid.

VKLdZ4Uh.jpg.f04645f5854fc887f303bbc67fe77aaa.jpg 

Hey Time Machine....on the OFF_THE_ROAD site they say using this DNA airbox cover would require "Recalibration of injection necessary
did you have to do that or did that?

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4 hours ago, Ride & Shine said:

Hey Time Machine....on the OFF_THE_ROAD site they say using this DNA airbox cover would require "Recalibration of injection necessary
did you have to do that or did that?

I will get my bike retuned when the virus restrictions lift. But in my view the engine simply runs better with a free flowing intake than it does with a restrictive one.  The improved throttle response is a good example of that. One thing I would like to answer when I do get my bike tuned is if the bike needed to be tuned so others can take comfort it is not required. 

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Hey Mate...thanks so much for taking the lead on this issue and sharing your knowledge to date. I think I speak for a fair few out there when I say this issue is the one thing that prevents this great machine being an brilliant one! Look forward to your retune feedback...:-)

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I haven't had any issues with the throttle.

 

I don't believe there is anything wrong with the bike.

 

I believe it comes down to rider not being smooth on the throttle, failing to anticipate when they need to release or apply the throttle and doing so in a controlled way.

 

Also a little clutch slip helps, especially with big engines and/or high rpm. This should be second nature to any dirt rider simply because as you approach closed throttle you need to be ready on the clutch to avoid stalling.

 

If you want to practice I'd suggest loosening your chain and riding around in low gears in a parking lot. Ultimately how I learned, I believe, is from being fairly lazy about chain maintenance 🙂

 

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4 hours ago, Hogan said:

I haven't had any issues with the throttle.

 

I don't believe there is anything wrong with the bike.

 

I believe it comes down to rider not being smooth on the throttle, failing to anticipate when they need to release or apply the throttle and doing so in a controlled way.

 

Also a little clutch slip helps, especially with big engines and/or high rpm. This should be second nature to any dirt rider simply because as you approach closed throttle you need to be ready on the clutch to avoid stalling.

 

If you want to practice I'd suggest loosening your chain and riding around in low gears in a parking lot. Ultimately how I learned, I believe, is from being fairly lazy about chain maintenance 🙂

 

Completely agree.

 

Rich

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4 hours ago, Hogan said:

I haven't had any issues with the throttle.

 

I don't believe there is anything wrong with the bike.

 

I believe it comes down to rider not being smooth on the throttle, failing to anticipate when they need to release or apply the throttle and doing so in a controlled way.

 

Also a little clutch slip helps, especially with big engines and/or high rpm. This should be second nature to any dirt rider simply because as you approach closed throttle you need to be ready on the clutch to avoid stalling.

 

If you want to practice I'd suggest loosening your chain and riding around in low gears in a parking lot. Ultimately how I learned, I believe, is from being fairly lazy about chain maintenance 🙂

 

 

3 minutes ago, Rich TT said:

Completely agree.

 

Rich

Well I was thinking there is always one in a crowd, but appears there are two. 🙂 

A lot of people across the globe have experienced this and enough to make comments on it in reviews, forums and videos. To simply think everyone is imagining it, or inexperienced with controlling a throttle is an interesting trait in your personality.

It is fair to say not everyone has experienced this and I think I can explain that with intake restriction. The Australian bikes have the Uniflow filter and have a noticeable hesitation on partial throttle. That filter has a real issue where the bottom of the inner snorkel touches the bottom of the filter which touches the bottom of the air box. There is literally no free space for air to flow.

The riders in Spain at the Tenere 700 launch also made comments about it, and although using the standard filter, would have suffered from various degrees of blockage from the dust. 

And as I noted in my earlier post, I can induce the problem at will just by adding the pre-filter. The evidence is adding up!

I agree though that there is nothing wrong with the bike, as long as you keep a free flowing intake. And it is not a big deal anyway for most casual riding and I will happily fit the pre-filter when I need to. But for commuting I would be looking for a solution, and expect that reducing intake restriction will fix it for the other posters.

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Just to be clear, I didn't suggest people are imagining it. See my earlier posts.

 

I just said MY bike has no issues whatsoever, but I have run  a straight through exhaust, run 98 octane fuel and taken all the slack out of my throttle. I have the standard Yamaha air filter and snorkel.

 

I don't doubt at all that it would run better with the snorkel removed and a higher flowing air filter, but only after a remap. If not, it will run far too weak.

 

Cheers

Rich

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