WEAR BRAKE PADS

[Johax]

I read that many Italian users complain that the brake pads wear out after only 6000 km! 
Especially the rear brake
What answer do you have?

[Rich TT]

12 minutes ago, Johax said:

I read that many Italian users complain that the brake pads wear out after only 6000 km! 
Especially the rear brake
What answer do you have?

Brembo SX, SD or TT compound for the rear.

 

See here for explanation

 

BRAKE PADS: HOW TO CHOOSE THE RIGHT ONE FOR MOTORCYCLE, SCOOTER AND OFF-ROAD | Brembo - Official Website

---

A guide to choosing the right pads for my bike: Choosing the right one, Sintered or organic? Track or street? High performance or low wear? Effective when cold or aggressive when hot?

 

 

[moto3]

I will be upgrading brake pads to Brembo as soon as my OEM pads need replacing.

 

Used them on my  KTM SMC R and they were huge improvement on standard pads.

 

Looking forward to what people choose for there T7s when time to change ?

[Aleksandar13]

On 5/13/2020 at 10:14 AM, Johax said:

I read that many Italian users complain that the brake pads wear out after only 6000 km! 
Especially the rear brake
What answer do you have?

Might be due to all the beautiful  Mountain passes in Italy ... And they are known to ride like they stole the bikes ...I have 3000 miles on mine and still half way there..  

 

I am upgrading to either Brembo or EBC pads...Have not decided yet..I have got a mate that recommended brembos but I have had red ones on the Vstrom and was not that impressed.. 

[moto3]

Oh yes....ride it like you stole it.....the only way to ride your bike  

 

Watch this topic with interest....If I can get 5k out of my pads I will be super happy

 

The Brembo website offers great information....

 

 

 

[bth2]

2,600 mls rear ready for a change , fronts doing ok. i never thought i would like abs but i find it great on the rear. i tend to use the rear a fair bit ,on the road,and i find i can stamp on it and it doesnt lock up. quite a strange feeling though. it feels like the brake pedal is dragging along the tarmac......or maybe it is

[ScorpionT16]

Next time you guys do a brake pad change, can someone do a step by step thread/video on the process? Would really help, pretty please! 

[Noel McCutcheon]

2600 miles and my rear pads, they are worn down quite a lot.
Though I am hard on rear pads though on most bikes. The fronts are fine.

I’ve new rear ones ordered. 

 

[Noel McCutcheon]

56 minutes ago, Hogan said:

Yep. Just changed mine at 6000ish kms. Caught me out on the way home from work. I managed to pick up some Ferodo pads from the dealer, hopefully they will last longer...

 

[rant]

 

Also the Brembo caliper is an absolute joke for serviceability. It uses a spring loaded collet on the pin to hold it in - which has to be driven out with a punch and hammer. You will have to remove the chain guard and use a long punch to drive it back in - or remove the rear wheel I find it kind of funny they have a retaining pin in this design - it's never going to come out. You may as well bin that clip on the first change. Also that means you need to carry suitable tools - ie a hammer and long punch on any long trip....

 

If rear brake pad changes are going to be 6k intervals, what I might end up doing is threading the hole and machining up a new pin.

 

I thought Yamaha had gone to the dogs when they decided to use Brembo calipers - the only reason they would have done that is for the brand recognition to help sell the bike... the calipers on this bike are the same basic design as any Nissin design or otherwise. It adds nothing to the performance of the bike. What an absolute joke...

 

[/rant]

 

In contrast the Fronts don’t have that sprung collet, just 2 easy R Clips.

[FAR&FURTHER]

Interesting, I'm on 11000km and front has so much left I'll probably do another 10000 and rear is about 1/2 there.

 

I'm using a lot of engine braking though and most of the time I'm using the front brake with little rear. I use rear extensively, but that would be when I'm off-tarmac and that would mean my rear wheel is mostly locked so rear brake does not have much friction to it

[FAR&FURTHER]

13 hours ago, ScorpionT16 said:

Next time you guys do a brake pad change, can someone do a step by step thread/video on the process? Would really help, pretty please! 

Will do, now just to figure out how to get the pads in MK when I need them

[Aleksandar13]

I'm on 3100 miles today and this is how much pad there is left... Each rider uses the bike in different environments and different riding styles as well. 

Must be 5.0mm left on mine

[Gezgin Endurocu]

Yes generally gone about 6000km it is bad but it is about organic...maybe we can use sintered or half sintered...pavel ı shocked how did you still not finish rear brake pad we use too much rear brake evertime...

[TimeMachine]

Using Brembo calipers means pads are available anywhere. Maybe not Morocco though. These are very common calipers so look for the pad model number, not just pads for the T7. Look for pads compatible with FA181 for the front and FA213 for the rear. 

 

I changed my rear pads immediately to the EBC HH sintered pads to get a little extra bite. Made some improvement but not a lot. To get a big improvement will also need a cheap chinese rotor (or maybe a Motomaster rotor, but can't vouch for that).

 

Another consideration is ABS. The ABS on the T7 cannot maintain it's logic if both wheels start locking up. If you are like me and use predominantly the front brakes then you definitely want to avoid rear wheel lock up, so keeping the rear "soft" might be a good idea.

 

This is my cheatsheet. Worth putting it on your phone or under your seat for reference.

 

[FAR&FURTHER]

Hello @TimeMachine,

I'm not really fussed about the brand of the brake pads, any pad will do, seems I'll get about 15k out of rear. I have about 4mm left on the wear marker after 10 000k... not complaining here.

 

I'm 100% with you on using the front most of the time, rear is for me to stabilize the bike or lock rear wheel off-road. I didn't really managed to engage the ABS in the front though, using loads of engine braking, we were riding here in High atlas and my friend after like 1 hour... "Your rear brake light is broken!" and I'm... "Nah, I don't use brakes"

 

In terms of your cheat sheet:

1) Are the values for compression and rebound what you use or maximums? Did you check your maximums for your suspension settings? Mine are different than whats in manual:

Maximums	Front	Rear
Compression	19	19
Rebound	26	26
Preload	N/A	24

 

2) Torques:

Spark plug / 13 N·m (1.3 kgf·m, 9.6 lb·ft)

Engine oil drain bolt / 43 N·m (4.3 kgf·m, 32 lb·ft)

 

Good stuff!

[FAR&FURTHER]

15 hours ago, Gezgin Endurocu said:

Yes generally gone about 6000km it is bad but it is about organic...maybe we can use sintered or half sintered...pavel ı shocked how did you still not finish rear brake pad we use too much rear brake evertime...

Main stopping brake for me is a) engine b) front brake I use rear for stability and locking in off-road. There is huge amount of compression on this engine, use it not only to accelerate abut also slow down

 

Pavel

[TimeMachine]

20 minutes ago, FAR&FURTHER said:

 

In terms of your cheat sheet:

1) Are the values for compression and rebound what you use or maximums? Did you check your maximums for your suspension settings? Mine are different than whats in manual:

 

Maximums	Front	Rear
Compression	19	19
Rebound	26	26
Preload	N/A	24

 

2) Torques:

Spark plug / 13 N·m (1.3 kgf·m, 9.6 lb·ft)

Engine oil drain bolt / 43 N·m (4.3 kgf·m, 32 lb·ft)

 

Good stuff!

 

Thanks Pavel, I read these from the manual as total number of clicks. My preload and rebound values are correct, but although the soft compression setting is suggested at 18 clicks out from hard, I can physically click through 24 clicks. I'll update my cheatsheet, and repost with your additions.

 

[TimeMachine]

Updated cheatsheet. 

 

 

 

Edited May 24, 2020 by TimeMachine

[Noel McCutcheon]

On 5/19/2020 at 10:32 PM, ScorpionT16 said:

Next time you guys do a brake pad change, can someone do a step by step thread/video on the process? Would really help, pretty please! 

Ok, Stock Original OEM pads are Organic, Sintered should last a a-lot longer. 

 

I used Brembo (Sinter) 07BB02SP.

You can also use EBC (Organic) FA213 or

EBC (R Series Sintered) FA208R @ScorpionT16 see how to:

 

 

 

[ScorpionT16]

28 minutes ago, X Plane said:

Ok, 

Stock Original OEM pads are Organic, Sintered should last a alot longer. 

I changed to Brembo Sintered @ScorpionT16 see how to below:

 

 

 

Thank you! Never changed pads before, this should make it easy, will buy a pair mid-summer to keep around for the time

[Noel McCutcheon]

3 hours ago, ScorpionT16 said:

Thank you! Never changed pads before, this should make it easy, will buy a pair mid-summer to keep around for the time

Cheers.... I added the steps below in to the Tech Tip post: 

 

1. Push piston back

2. Remove R clip from retaining Pin.

3. Punch / bang knock out pin note it has a unusual retaining spring collet so you have to hit it with sharp bangs.

4. Lift olds pads out, slide new ones in

5. Push Pin back in and bang bash it fully back in, so that the collet snaps back in

6. Put push R clip back into the retaining pin, make sure pin is fully home and you can see the hole for the R clip.

 

No bother. 

Brembo (Sinter) 07BB02SP. You can also use EBC (Organic) FA213 or EBC (R Series Sintered) FA208R

[Noel McCutcheon]

On 5/19/2020 at 10:12 PM, Hogan said:

Yep. Just changed mine at 6000ish kms. Caught me out on the way home from work. I managed to pick up some Ferodo pads from the dealer, hopefully they will last longer...

 

[rant]

 

Also the Brembo caliper is an absolute joke for serviceability. It uses a spring loaded collet on the pin to hold it in - which has to be driven out with a punch and hammer. You will have to remove the chain guard and use a long punch to drive it back in - or remove the rear wheel I find it kind of funny they have a retaining pin in this design - it's never going to come out. You may as well bin that clip on the first change. Also that means you need to carry suitable tools - ie a hammer and long punch on any long trip....

 

If rear brake pad changes are going to be 6k intervals, what I might end up doing is threading the hole and machining up a new pin.

 

I thought Yamaha had gone to the dogs when they decided to use Brembo calipers - the only reason they would have done that is for the brand recognition to help sell the bike... the calipers on this bike are the same basic design as any Nissin design or otherwise. It adds nothing to the performance of the bike. What an absolute joke...

 

[/rant]

 

Agree that the Retaining Pin's round Spring Collet is a bit different.... 

 

I produced the following Tech Tip with a How to Video.

 

It is not too bad if you are aware and know before hand, that the pin needs sharp blows to get in unhoused. Thanks.

 

 

[Cruizin]

5 hours ago, TimeMachine said:

Updated cheatsheet. 

 

 

 

I hope you dont mind, but I'm gonna steal that and post it in our tech tips section. Ill give you full credit. 

[Noel McCutcheon]

20 minutes ago, Cruizin said:

I hope you dont mind, but I'm gonna steal that and post it in our tech tips section. Ill give you full credit. 

@TimeMachine add EBC FA208R and / or 07BB02SP for Brembo rear (sintered) pads

[FAR&FURTHER]

@TimeMachine strange I was asking because I can't physically click more than the max values I posted or I'm too gentle with it.