world Bouncing Headlight & Dash Wobble DIY Fix

[TimeMachine]

A simple fix for the jiggly instrument panel is to get some anti-vibration material and wedge it between the wind screen tower and the instrument panel mount as shown in the images below. The best material I found for this are the Whites Anti-vibration blocks available from Bunnings in Australia that are 50mm x 50mm x 12mm thick, and cut in half. The fit is "neat", taking a little push to slide them in but not so much that it deforms the plastics or mis-aligns the panel. The pocket they sit in gets much narrower at the bottom so they cannot fall through.

Initially I just wedged them in but found in very heavy corrugation they would work themselves loose and fall out, so I have cable tied them into place. If the hole for the cable tie is too close to the centre of the block lengthwise then the cable tie will rub on the instrument panel front fascia, so best to place the hole more to one end as shown.

How well do they work? They completely stop the instrument panel from wobbling and I have had no other issues with this solution.

[Whitey66]

I've used exactly the same product 3 days ago (left over from a front load washing machine installation) But I pulled mine all apart and fitted it with 3D extreme double sided tape rather than cable ties . Have you ridden the bike at night before doing the mod ? as one thing that is more annoying than the jiggling display is a jiggling headlight, which this mod also fixes. It was driving me nuts so it was high on my list of things to fix first. I also fixed the jiggling throttle tube that had play both sideways and up and down. I did the same mod I fixed my Ducati Monster with about 5 years ago and it's still going well. I added a 1.35mm thick round plastic washer to the throttle housing and added greaseproof paper between the handlebar end and the throttle tube. I also sprayed it all with PTFE spray before assembly. Another thing I have used before is a PTFE BBQ Hotplate liner if it fits but I didn't have any lying about.

Along with removing all freeplay from the throttle linkage adjuster, this has made a great improvement when going off then back on the throttle and makes the bike a lot better to ride around town.  

Edited January 26, 2020 by Whitey66

[TimeMachine]

Camel Adv have now released some brackets to help solve this.

 

 

[Spuzvica]

On 1/26/2020 at 1:32 PM, Whitey66 said:

I've used exactly the same product 3 days ago (left over from a front load washing machine installation) But I pulled mine all apart and fitted it with 3D extreme double sided tape rather than cable ties . Have you ridden the bike at night before doing the mod ? as one thing that is more annoying than the jiggling display is a jiggling headlight, which this mod also fixes. It was driving me nuts so it was high on my list of things to fix first. I also fixed the jiggling throttle tube that had play both sideways and up and down. I did the same mod I fixed my Ducati Monster with about 5 years ago and it's still going well. I added a 1.35mm thick round plastic washer to the throttle housing and added greaseproof paper between the handlebar end and the throttle tube. I also sprayed it all with PTFE spray before assembly. Another thing I have used before is a PTFE BBQ Hotplate liner if it fits but I didn't have any lying about.

Along with removing all freeplay from the throttle linkage adjuster, this has made a great improvement when going off then back on the throttle and makes the bike a lot better to ride around town.  

Did you manufacture the throttle washer or get it somewhere?

[Whitey66]

58 minutes ago, Spuzvica said:

Did you manufacture the throttle washer or get it somewhere?

I manufactured it, I cut it out from the lid off a plastic bucket 

When I get some spare time i'll post up some details and dimensions.

[TimeMachine]

@FAR&FURTHER. Cheap and easy. 

[FAR&FURTHER]

Very good DIY stuff! Love it! The issue with the throttle grip drives me nuts as well, I'll try to implement the fix @Whitey66 describes. I'm trying hard to put it out of my head... mostly without success!

 

Thanks @TimeMachine pointing this out. A lot of tricks are popping around, probably for Episode 2 in DIY tricks!

[Whitey66]

29 minutes ago, FAR&FURTHER said:

Very good DIY stuff! Love it! The issue with the throttle grip drives me nuts as well, I'll try to implement the fix @Whitey66 describes. I'm trying hard to put it out of my head... mostly without success!

 

Thanks @TimeMachine pointing this out. A lot of tricks are popping around, probably for Episode 2 in DIY tricks!

If I have time on the weekend i'll put up some pics and details. It has made an enormous difference to my bike, it was so bad it made my T7 very annoying to ride under certain conditions. It's a very cheap and easy mod for big gains 

[FAR&FURTHER]

Indeed, please share, I'll be on the hunt for the bucket. I have an eye on the Yogurt cup lid which is in the fridge

[Alpenschrauber]

On 5/20/2020 at 2:01 PM, Whitey66 said:

If I have time on the weekend i'll put up some pics and details. It has made an enormous difference to my bike, it was so bad it made my T7 very annoying to ride under certain conditions. It's a very cheap and easy mod for big gains 

Great, pics would be perfect! Many thanks in advance

[tenerecanada]

48 minutes ago, Alpenschrauber said:

Great, pics would be perfect! Many thanks in advance

 

[Alpenschrauber]

many thanks, tenerecanada!

 

[Noel McCutcheon]

On 1/25/2020 at 11:10 PM, TimeMachine said:

A simple fix for the jiggly instrument panel is to get some anti-vibration material and wedge it between the wind screen tower and the instrument panel mount as shown in the images below. The best material I found for this are the Whites Anti-vibration blocks available from Bunnings in Australia that are 50mm x 50mm x 12mm thick, and cut in half. The fit is "neat", taking a little push to slide them in but not so much that it deforms the plastics or mis-aligns the panel. The pocket they sit in gets much narrower at the bottom so they cannot fall through.

Initially I just wedged them in but found in very heavy corrugation they would work themselves loose and fall out, so I have cable tied them into place. If the hole for the cable tie is too close to the centre of the block lengthwise then the cable tie will rub on the instrument panel front fascia, so best to place the hole more to one end as shown.

How well do they work? They completely stop the instrument panel from wobbling and I have had no other issues with this solution.

 

Thanks @TimeMachine - I copied you....
 

Though I got and used self-adhesive grey anti-vibration pads pictured below.
 

Thanks again.

 

 

l loosened headlight to get the grey sticky back pads in.

 

 

Result, Bobbling bouncing headlight fixed

 

 

Neat job after trimming

 

[Noel McCutcheon]

Copied @TimeMachine fix for headlight wobble.

 

Here’s how I did it with grey self-adhesive anti-vibe pads:

 

1. Remove  the 4 off (4 mm Allen key) Screen screws and lift screen off

 

2. Remove both 5mm Allen screws from the rear of the Dash unit and tug pull the Instrument Dash Panel up hard and lift it off

 

 

Dash location tongues 

 

 

3. Loosen (but don’t remove) all 4off headlight unit retaining 5mm Allen screws.

 

4. Cut pads 65 mm by 45 mm. Peel paper off, pull side rail and slip pads down in with sticky back to the headlight unit.

 

5. Repeat 4. for other side. 
 

6. Trim access foam pad with sharp knife. 
 

7. Tighten headlight! Replace Dash and Screen.

 

 

[TimeMachine]

11 minutes ago, X Plane said:

Copied @TimeMachine 

 

Nice work X Plane. I think the vibration suppression of these pads will also help reduce the chance of failure over time.

[Noel McCutcheon]

I Copied / Adopted @TimeMachine’s fix for the headlight dash vibration, wobbling / bouncing. 

 

Here’s what I did, different, i used (grey) self-adhesive anti-vibe foam pads, link below at bottom.

1. Remove the four (4 mm) Allen key screws and lift the windscreen off ;

 

2. Remove the two (5mm) Allen screws from the rear of the Dash Instrument Panel 

and tug pull it (hard) upwards and lift it off / away;

 

 

Note the instrument panels two location tongues below for when refitting it back on later;

 

 

3. Loosen (but don’t remove) the four headlight unit retaining (5mm) Allen screws.

 

4. Cut two of the (grey) Anti-Vibe Pads approx 65 mm by 45 mm. Peel the backing paper off one and pull the side rail out and slip the pad down in with the sticky back adhesive side to the headlight unit.

 

5. Repeat step 4. for the other side. 
 

6. Trim off any access grey foam with a sharp knife. 
 

7. Re-Tighten the four headlight screws!
 

8. Replace the Dash Instrument Panel and Screen. Bingo

 

 

 

Pack of 8 Self-adhesive Anti-Vibration Grey Medium Density PE Foam Pads

---

Anti-vibration Self-adhesive Grey PE Foam pads. self-adhesive one side to reduce vibration and sound instantly. easy to apply - simply peel off silicone protection paper and position.

 

Bing, bang, bouche ....Enjoy

[Noel McCutcheon]

3 minutes ago, TimeMachine said:

Nice work X Plane. I think the vibration suppression of these pads will also help reduce the chance of failure over time.

Agree. Cheers

[Toei]

I don't even have a T7 yet but I'm archiving this for later because I'm sure the wobble will bother me like it seems to for most everyone.  Thanks for sharing!

 

I noticed that you have a USB outlet on your dash instead of the factory one.  Care to share which one you used?  

[Noel McCutcheon]

8 minutes ago, Toei said:

I don't even have a T7 yet but I'm archiving this for later because I'm sure the wobble will bother me like it seems to for most everyone.  Thanks for sharing!

 

I noticed that you have a USB outlet on your dash instead of the factory one.  Care to share which one you used?  

You are welcome.... Cheers.

 

You can find a link to the USB, unit that I used, in post

link below : 
 

USB works well and is handy.

 

[Noel McCutcheon]

25 minutes ago, Toei said:

I don't even have a T7 yet but I'm archiving this for later because I'm sure the wobble will bother me like it seems to for most everyone.  Thanks for sharing!

 

I noticed that you have a USB outlet on your dash instead of the factory one.  Care to share which one you used?  

Cheers...... May be Yamaha will adopt / Incorporate a wobble cure for next year. 

@Cruizin Camel ADV have developed an anti-bobble head strut https://camel-adv.com/collections/yamaha/products/yamaha-tenere-abh

 

 

@Toei USB Unit link below:

 

https://www.amazon.co.uk/CHGeek-Socket-Charger-Waterproof-motorcycle/dp/B07C96SP75/ref=asc_df_B07C96SP75/?tag=googshopuk-21&linkCode=df0&hvadid=309900940968&hvpos=1o2&hvnetw=g&hvrand=16194390014545043714&hvpone=&hvptwo=&hvqmt=&hvdev=c&hvdvcmdl=&hvlocint=&hvlocphy=1007275&hvtargid=pla-564087057730&psc=1

 

[Toei]

Perfect thanks!  

 

I bet Yamaha will incorporate something like this fix into the bike.  It would be nice if they'd redesign the components to be more secure on their own, but you know they'll just opt for the sticky pad thing!  

 

I'm trying to get a T7 ASAP (just missed the PDP), so I bet I'll get a wobbly one, too.  If I'm successful.  

 

 

Edited June 14, 2020 by Toei
dyslexia

[Noel McCutcheon]

25 minutes ago, Toei said:

Perfect thanks!  

 

I bet Yamaha will incorporate something like fix this into the bike.  It would be nice if they'd redesign the components to be more secure on their own, but you know they'll just opt for the sticky pad thing!  

 

I'm trying to get a T7 ASAP (just missed the PDP), so I bet I'll get a wobbly one, too.  If I'm successful.  

 

You’re welcome.

 

Yeah the anti-vibe-pads I used https://www.ebay.co.uk/itm/232155122072 are an inexpensive DIY solution.

 

 @Cruizin, plug for, ADV Camel have developed a nice anti-bobble head strut system: https://camel-adv.com/collections/yamaha/products/yamaha-tenere-abh.

 

 @Toei Best wishes.

 

[Cruizin]

The bobble and shaking is crazy without this mod or Camel ADV's kit. I couldnt believe just how bad the guage cluster was shaking around, looked like it would break. 

[Rich TT]

Thanks @X Plane and @TimeMachine.

 

Just done this following @X Plane 's instructions. Dead easy and super fix.

 

Cheers guys.

 

Rich

[jdub53]

Reviving an old thread on an alternative I just tried for the great idea that @TimeMachine had first posted here and then @X Planeexpanded upon.

 

The severe instrument shake when doing rocky off-road on my newly acquired T7 bothered me also, but I couldn't find anti-vibration pads anywhere near me. While I had the windscreen off yesterday to fit a GPS mount to the crossbar, I started wondering what else I could try. Searching through my toolbox, I first found some 1/4" ID rubber fuel hose with an OD of approximately 1/2" / 13 mm. I slid one end into the area between the composite support structure and the instrument pod until it bottomed, took a measurement, and cut two 2" pieces. Each piece fit snugly and allowed enough at the top for a small ty-rap to secure it.

 

 

The instrument pod could still be moved a bit, suggesting that a slightly thicker OD would work better. Since that was the only rubber fuel line I had handy, I went back to the toolbox and spotted something else that has proven to be a very versatile special tool in lots of varied applications: wine bottle corks.

 

I started keeping a small collection of old corks a few years ago, and among other uses they are perfect for keeping a tire's bead in the rim center depression while installing stiff sidewall tires with my tire irons (just insert a cork every few inches between the rim and bead until the bead is fully spooned on).

 

I got two corks, but found they were too thick in their natural state to be inserted where I'd put the fuel hose. I then spotted another location, and pressed a cork in each side. The corks squeezed in tightly, and solidly supported the instrument pod. I realized then that the fuel hose pieces were not necessary because of the corks, removed the fuel hose, installed the windscreen and went for a test ride. The instrument pod didn't shake at all, and although squeezed in very tightly, I figured the corks still provide a bit of vibration damping. Yeah, they look ugly (and sorry about the crappy cell phone pics) but these were just test items and I'm going to try painting some black and then reinserting so they blend better.  The corks are fully bottomed in these pics, and are so snug I don't see the need to secure them with anything else. 

 

  

 

Edited May 24, 2021 by jdub53