Bosley pegs

[DT675]

That looks great! Thanks for the info! 

[Bosley1980]

YES that is all my pegs

write me PM or email

 

[Murska]

I had two bikes of Bosley pegs and I am very happy with them. Bosley answers questions quickly, pegs quality is 10+, and fast delivery.

[Jovanboris]

I have a bit of a problem and I don’t know what to do… 

 

I am a 2m tall rider, so the logical option was to order the -30 lowered/ -20 backwards/ rally size pegs.
While sitting I find the brake to be way too high, and the shifter too. Both levers also seem to be too far away as well. The feet further back and that makes a greater bend in the leg (uncomfortable). I have to lift my legs completely off the pegs to reach either of the levers and that movement considerably upsets the bike balance. 
While standing it makes a bit more sense, but you don’t stand all the while riding, probably more like 50% when off-road and I do a lot of onroad. 

I’m just confused because I thought the pegs will make the riding experience better but now it’s actually worse. I adjusted the shifter but it can’t lower it any further because the rod runs out of thread. Can the brake lever be adjusted at all? There is no “lowering adapter” on the market for the T7 as far as I know.  
 

Did I choose the wrong pegs or am I just doing something wrong? Is my foot position wrong? I am a fairly new rider with 4000km on the odometer. Any tips and suggestions will do me good! Thanks!

 

Ps
I might end up selling them if I find no solution so if anybody is interested, send me a message. They have been riden on for 45min onroad, are in pristine condition, literally new. I’m located in Slovenia (Europe).

[williestreet]

1 hour ago, Jovanboris said:

I have a bit of a problem and I don’t know what to do… 

 

I am a 2m tall rider, so the logical option was to order the -30 lowered/ -20 backwards/ rally size pegs.
While sitting I find the brake to be way too high, and the shifter too. Both levers also seem to be too far away as well. The feet further back and that makes a greater bend in the leg (uncomfortable). I have to lift my legs completely off the pegs to reach either of the levers and that movement considerably upsets the bike balance. 
While standing it makes a bit more sense, but you don’t stand all the while riding, probably more like 50% when off-road and I do a lot of onroad. 

I’m just confused because I thought the pegs will make the riding experience better but now it’s actually worse. I adjusted the shifter but it can’t lower it any further because the rod runs out of thread. Can the brake lever be adjusted at all? There is no “lowering adapter” on the market for the T7 as far as I know.  
 

Did I choose the wrong pegs or am I just doing something wrong? Is my foot position wrong? I am a fairly new rider with 4000km on the odometer. Any tips and suggestions will do me good! Thanks!

 

Ps
I might end up selling them if I find no solution so if anybody is interested, send me a message. They have been riden on for 45min onroad, are in pristine condition, literally new. I’m located in Slovenia (Europe).

As I mentioned in my post on the 1st page I had a similar issue as you have found.  Pictures are there.

 

I rotated the upper shift lever, where it connects to the shift shaft coming out of the engine.  Rotate the shaft by one spline to lower the lever.  This will allow you to keep a sufficient amount of threads in the linkage Heim joints, and it doesn't change the angle enough to cause a shifting issue.

 

There is a small bump of aluminum on the backside of the bracket the peg mounts to that the shift lever will hit when  you lower the lever a certain amount.  Just grind off this small bump to allow the lever to pass freely.  You can lower the shift lever to a point where the heim joint almost hits the frame when pushing down on the lever.  Just don't go too far and make contact.

 

The brake lever can be adjusted lower as well.  On the bottom of the master cylinder where it connects to the brake pedal there is a black lock nut on the bottom of the threaded shaft that comes out of the rear master cylinder.  Remove the pin connecting the brake lever to that small bracket.  loosen the locknut and then adjust the small bracket up the threaded shaft.  This will lower the brake pedal. 

Just keep an eye on the threaded shaft and do not go too far or it will hit the pin and bind.

 

When finished you will need to adjust the brake light switch or it will be on all the time because of the lowered pedal.  There is another small bolt and a pivoting bracket on the backside of the pedal.  Loosen the bolt and the little bracket will rotate to put some play back in the brake light trigger wire so it is not on all the time.

 

Everyone is different and likes different foot positions.  I had problems with the stock peg positions.  I installed the -30/-20/8 Bosley pegs and they are almost perfect for me.   Left heel hits the little nub on the side stand, but I will cut that off eventually.  

 

I would actually like to get the shifter another 5-7mm lower to make shifting up better, but the heim joint hits the frame.  I zip-tied a piece of hose to the bottom of the shift pedal to get a few mm lower.  Probably look for a more elegant solution eventually, but it works fine and cost nothing.

 

As mentioned pictures of my bike can be found on the 1st page of this thread.  You can see how much lower my shifter is than yours.

 

Edited February 5, 2022 by williestreet

[Wintersdark]

Ah, frustration!

 

I got a set of Bosley's pegs, but did not read this thread fully first.  What's not mentioned anywhere while I was shopping is that the stock springs are fully unusable with them.  I saw his note for the "stiffer KTM springs" but didn't really care if they were stiffer or not, so just assumed the stock springs would be fine.  So, now I'm gonna need to remount the stock  pegs... or maybe I'll just leave them sans-springs until some can come in.  

 

So, if anyone's looking to get these (and they are great!) a couple notes:

 

• You need springs.  Either get the springs from him or whereever else, but get em ordered at the same time.
• Powder coating looks great, but doesn't fit.  The pivot pin won't fit in the holes on the pegs, and the pegs won't fit into the brackets.  Had to file off the powdercoating inside the pin holes and on the peg brackets as well to make them fit and be able to pivot. 

 

 

 Rally, 30mm down, 8mm base, powdercoated black.

 

With that said, the un-powdercoated ones will fit *perfectly*, and the powder coating itself is extremely well done.  They're very, very nice pegs, and the drop is *wonderful* for my borked knees.  Really, really nice.  Just wish I knew the springs were mandatory, as I'd much sooner have just ordered them with the pegs.  Ah well.

 

Edited April 6, 2022 by Wintersdark

[Wintersdark]

Just to illustrate the problem, here's the stock springs, and how they sit on the stock pegs:

 

 

The inner diameter of the stock springs is much larger than the pivot pin, as they're meant to reside on the sleeve on the stock pegs.  You can put them on with the Bosley pegs, but if you work the pegs up and down a few times eventually the spring twists sideways and holds the peg in place.  Currently, as you can see, I'm just running without springs until I can get some KTM replacements, but for anyone shopping just order the springs alongside the pegs and save yourself the hassle.

 

That said, they're great.  Really great pegs.  Very comfortable, pokey enough to really grab your boots but not so sharp as to tear them up.  

 

I was able to lower the brake and shifter levers sufficiently to make them work with the -30mm pegs, but I had to grind off the little nub on the inside of the shifter side bracket (seen in the thread above), and adjust the brake light spring on the brake side. That is just loosening a nut, letting the little bracket rotate to relax the spring, and tightening it again; do this with the ignition turned on so you can get it set where you'd like the brake light to turn on vs. pedal position, as per this picture: 

 

 

You just release the nut on the back of this captive bolt, and that little plate behind where the spring attaches is free to rotate.  You want it to be tight enough on the spring to not have the spring fall off, but loose enough so that it's not pulling on the switch when the pedal is at rest.  Small adjustments can be used to adjust how sensitive the brake light switch is. 

 

Side note: Why does this forum insist on rotating my photos 90 degrees?  It's really frustrating.  There's got to be a way to fix that.