Highway Dirt Bikes Handguard Install

[BLZ2DWL]

I know others have also installed these, but I wanted to cover some of the questions/options that come up. I worked with Chad at HDB, who is doing a great job trying to help customers install these on all sorts of bikes, but being a small shop he doesn't have a test bike for each brand/model, so some of it is trial and error. My set went together perfectly on the first try, and here's what I got:

 

• HDB Ultimate Handguards
  • Build your own: https://www.highwaydirtbikes.com/index.php?app=ecom&ns=prodshow&ref=HG-200
• In the comments, tell him you want them for a T7
• Center clamp bolt pattern is 100x38/40mm
• With or without bar end weights
  • I went without end weights, which allowed me to use the standard length guard
  • If you want to retain your end weights, you will need to get the longer touring guard
• Bar: for the stock bar, Chad will provide a threaded bushing that fits your bar end and accepts a bolt to hold the guard on. 
  • If you want to use the "Big Bolt", you will have to replace your bars and tap the new bars for the 5/8" bolt. 
  • I kept the stock bars, and the bushing worked perfectly to both accept the new bolt and to space the guard out a few mm to avoid interference with the throttle tube.
• Swivels: these connect the guard to the center clamp. HDB offers short and long swivels. I could have gotten away with either, but chose the long ones. That puts the clutch cable and left side wires behind the guard. The short swivels would have required routing in front of the guard. In the first pic, you can see both swivels installed to increase the width, but I did not use that setup. 
• Mirrors: They kick ass, and you ought to order them too. 

 

Everything went together easily. No bending, no fuss. While I didn't get to use the Big Bolts, I am confident that the smaller bolts will work fine. They fit into a tapered insert that centers the guard on the bar end and retain the flush end. Very trick. 

 

 

The end bolt and tapered spacer:

 

The bushing:

 

The bushing in the bar end (and you see my 350 with HBDs in the background)

 

The bushing spacing on the throttle tube, all tightened up:

 

Center clamp with 2 sets of bushings. I ultimately only used the longer ones:

 

Brake line in stock location. It would have worked with some wiggling:

 

But I loosened the banjo fitting, rotated it down (on the other side of the stop) and bled. No need to remove the stub. Much better:

 

Clutch side: Everything fits behind the guard with no issues:

 

The whole deal:

 

Finally, you may notice that the last few pics show black anodized guards. HDB stopped offering those a few years ago due to the difficulty in finding a reliable supplier. I got lucky and Chad found a pair for me. I don't know that he will be able to do that for others, but you can always ask. 

 

Overall thoughts: I've run these on every dual sport bike I've owned. They are hands down the best hand guards you can buy, and they aren't that expensive ($160 without mirrors). That's cheaper than the Cyras. Protection is unmatched. On other installs, I've had to bend a guard some or make minor tweaks to get them to fit, but these were surprisingly easy to install. It took less than 30 minutes total. And supporting a small business with an exceptional product is the only way we'll get to have exceptional products. It's essentially a one-man shop, so you have to be a little patient, but it's worth it. 

Edited December 22, 2020 by BLZ2DWL

[Liquidape]

Damn. I wish I had known to ask about getting the guards black anodized when I ordered mine. Looks sharp in black. The mirrors do kick ass and it’s nice not having the stock mirrors on the bike. Cleans up the air flow a bit. 

Edited December 22, 2020 by Liquidape

[BLZ2DWL]

3 minutes ago, Liquidape said:

Damn. I wish I had known to ask about getting the guards black anodized when I ordered mine. Looks sharp in black. The mirrors do kick ass and it’s nice not having the stock mirrors on the bike. Cleans up the air flow a bit. 

They look great, but I may regret them the first time I drop it and scratch them up.  

[ArkMark]

I'm a big fan of the HDB handguards and happened to have a set left off a previous bike so Chad supplied the top clamp and bar inserts and I was back in business.  I have a question about rotating the brake line though.  How did you bleed it?  I was hesitant to disconnect the banjo since I didn't know if the ABS system would make it difficult to bleed.

[BLZ2DWL]

1 minute ago, ArkMark said:

I'm a big fan of the HDB handguards and happened to have a set left off a previous bike so Chad supplied the top clamp and bar inserts and I was back in business.  I have a question about rotating the brake line though.  How did you bleed it?  I was hesitant to disconnect the banjo since I didn't know if the ABS system would make it difficult to bleed.

Easy. When you loosen and rotate the line, you will get some air in the top of the line and the master cylinder, but it doesn't go down through the system. Cover the bike and fairing area with rags. I also wrap a rag around the line to catch the fluid. 

• First, remove the master cylinder lid and simply squeeze lever slowly a few times
  • Careful, as the fluid will bubble and you can make a mess if you squeeze too fast.
  • This will get most of the air out of the system.
• Then:
  • Squeeze lever and hold
  • Crack banjo bolt loose (1/4-1/2 turn should do it), fluid and air will bubble out. 
  • Tighten banjo bolt
  • Release lever
  • Squeeze and release lever a couple times to restore pressure. 
  • Repeat 2-3 times. 

[Toei]

For those of you who have installed these without bar end weights, how much additional vibration are you getting in the grips?

[BLZ2DWL]

None. And the mirrors are dead steady. Uncanny, really. Best mirrors I've ever used. 

[Firebolter]

What he said -Dead steady, sleek and out of the way. IMO, the most elegant solution there is.

[GreatDistances]

@BLZ2DWL thanks for your helpful guide.  I had a question related to the banjo bolt / front reservoir as it relates:

 

I’ve put the HDB guards on, and in the process of adjusting the banjo bolt, I’ve managed to create a problem - now no matter which orientation I tighten the banjo bolt down in, brake fluid flows out of the banjo bolt area and I resultingly have no brake pressure.  Any ideas on how to fix this?

[mpatch]

9 minutes ago, GreatDistances said:

@BLZ2DWL thanks for your helpful guide.  I had a question related to the banjo bolt / front reservoir as it relates:

 

I’ve put the HDB guards on, and in the process of adjusting the banjo bolt, I’ve managed to create a problem - now no matter which orientation I tighten the banjo bolt down in, brake fluid flows out of the banjo bolt area and I resultingly have no brake pressure.  Any ideas on how to fix this?

Did you lose a washer?

[BLZ2DWL]

I agree with mpatch. There should be a washer on both sides of the banjo fitting. If they are both there, I suggest loosening the bolt and wiggling the fitting around a bit to be sure it's sitting on the bolt properly and not hung up on a thread, etc., and trying to retighten the bolt. 

 

[GreatDistances]

Thanks guys.  Both washers are still in place.  I’ve tried wiggling and re-setting the fitting but fluid keeps coming out regardless of positioning - it’s a glacially slow leak with no pressure, and an easy flow with brake pressure.  Perhaps it’s wise to replace the crush washers at this point as a next step?

Edited May 18, 2021 by GreatDistances

[mpatch]

The only other thing I could thing of is the tab is hitting the stop not allowing it to properly seat 

This is what mine looks like. 
 

[GreatDistances]

@mpatch I’m not having any direct interference with the tab that I can sense - I’m going to try fresh crush washers and I’ll report back.  Also - which bars are you running?  I’ve got Protaper Evo Sx Race bend on and it’s a whole different story on backbone/reservoir clearance for me (which is exactly what I’m working on here!).

[mpatch]

Post a pic looking down, something doesn’t look right. Could just be my eyes. 

[mpatch]

Post a pic looking down, something doesn’t look right. Could just be my eyes. 
 

what is the brown looking thing?

Doesn’t look right 

 

Edited May 18, 2021 by mpatch

[GreatDistances]

I stepped away from the bike for a bit, but I think that's just the warm light in the garage or a misfire on my phone camera's white balance.  I've never fully pulled the bolt out of the reservoir so nothing's gone missing in the assembly / nothing's been added either.  When I replace the crush washers I'm going to give the area a wipe down so there's no possible debris in the way.

[mpatch]

Just from the pic the tab doesn’t look like it could hit the stop if that makes sense. Post a pic looking down at it. 

[GreatDistances]

Ahhh, now I see what you mean.  I'll have to take a trip back to the bike to check it out / take a pic (it's parked offsite).

[BLZ2DWL]

If you didn't take the bolt all of the way out, then it could certainly be debris. New washers might help, but they ought to work more than once. It could be that the factory overtightened it, crushing the washers far enough that they won't seal again. I've loosened the banjo bolt to bleed the brakes or clutch on many bikes and never had a problem. 

[GreatDistances]

Here’s a fresh couple of top down pic of the banjo.  Nothing looks visually troubling to my eyes.  I pulled the crush washers and they look about done though.  Hope to pick up a couple of new ones tomorrow to see if that’s the fix I need!

[mpatch]

Any chance you somehow bent the banjo bolt just a smidge ?

Im out of ideas. 

[GreatDistances]

Ha!  Well I just appreciate you coming with me on this journey of discovery!

 

I haven't applied any (known, intentional) off-axis pressure on the banjo so hopefully that's not the case.  If the new crush washers don't solve the problem I'll call in some in-person help from some mechanically-minded riding buddies.  The weather looks decent this weekend so hopefully I can get it all sorted by then!

Edited May 19, 2021 by GreatDistances

[mpatch]

My last idea.
Maybe some debris behind the end of the banjo in the master that when you initially loosened it dropped down/moved and is not allowing the bolt to fully seat?

 

when it’s tight can you move the hose with some effort?

[GreatDistances]

Update:  new crush washers and appropriate torque (spec is 30nm on banjo bolt, which felt like a lot to apply) sealed properly and I have brakes again.  I did not need to bleed yet but I'm going to take it easy on first rides just in case.

Moral of the story:  if you plan on messing with the banjo bolt, it may be a good idea to have at least (2) or more fresh crush washers on hand just in case you have the same problem I did.

OEM part number for the banjo crush washers (listed as gaskets on Yamaha parts diagrams) is 90430-10005-00.  You should be able to find these generic at an MC shop for cheaper, so long as you can show them the size you need (which may be tricky without one in hand as an example).