How To Remove Your Charcoal Canister

[BMRT7]

This discussion came up in another thread so I figured I would dig up some old photos and put together a how to. 
 

Why would you want to remove your charcoal canister? For me, it completely solved the hot start issues I was having. It also saves about a pound. You now have some extra space on the bike to store.... tools? Whiskey? Snacks? The possibilities are endless. 
 

You’re going to need some vacuum caps and some new fuel line. 
 

The prep work involves requires removing some side panels and removing the gas tank. Consult other threads or your shop manual if you haven’t done this before. It’s an easy job, just take your time. Once you have the tank up unplug the vent line, the fuel line, and the fuel pump coupler. 
 

Here’s what we’re going after. Take note of items 1 and 2. 1 is the part of the line that connects to the tank and 2 is your rollover valve. I opted to retain these and run a new line down the side of the bike from the rollover valve. 

 

One end of #4 goes into the canister and the other end leads to a T that then goes to the throttle bodies, #5 here:

 

The gist is you want remove the system, plug the throttle body barbs that previously had hoses and route a new fuel vent/overflow line. Unplugging the hoses is pretty easy. Undo the clamps and pull the hoses. The charcoal can is attached with a rubber mount. I just sliced through the rubber and pulled it out. It’s a bit of a pain as it’s wrapped around your starter. 
 

Here is what the right side throttle body looks like once you’ve removed the hose. Note that on this side there is a cap in place on a port from the factory (yellow) leave that alone. Put a vacuum cap on the barb circled in red. 
 

 

On the left side you can see I’ve already added a vacuum cap. Circled in red. The other port, instead of having a cap like the other side, has a hose that goes to your intake pressure sensor plug. 
 

At this point you can button everything back up. Notice here how I retained the factory hose that connects to the tank and the rollover valve. 
 

 

After that just run a new bit of hose from the rollover valve through the void where the can once was and down the left side in its designated spot in the sprocket cover. 
 

Edited April 8, 2021 by BMRT7

[BADDANDY]

Thanks.

 

I'm gonna try removing hose #3 and run a longer one as you did, but just disconnect hose #4 and plug it. Then remove can. This way I won't have to remove bodywork or tank now, but when I do a throttle body sinc or plug change.

BTW, which ports are used for throttle body sinc (red or yellow) if you know?

[Doc Brown]

You Sir, are a star! Many thanks. I will do it exactly that way, except that I will not use vacuum caps (hard to get over here) but run a short hose from one barb to the other or find another possibility to plug them.

[BMRT7]

8 hours ago, BADDANDY said:

Thanks.

 

I'm gonna try removing hose #3 and run a longer one as you did, but just disconnect hose #4 and plug it. Then remove can. This way I won't have to remove bodywork or tank now, but when I do a throttle body sinc or plug change.

BTW, which ports are used for throttle body sinc (red or yellow) if you know?

Manual calls for removing the cap and intake air pressure sensor hose (yellow) and then installing the measuring equipment. 
 

 

[BADDANDY]

Thanks

[BADDANDY]

Canister delete completed the way I said I would as above.  I replaced hose #3 with #5 which already had a 45° end and used a wooden dowel to plug hose #4. I'm making a 9"x2.5" tube to move a tool bag from under the seat to replace it as seen with the blue tape.

 

 

Edited April 9, 2021 by BADDANDY

[BADDANDY]

Tool tube complete.

 

 

[BMRT7]

50 minutes ago, BADDANDY said:

Tool tube complete.

 

 

Bad ass!

[slakdawg]

On 4/10/2021 at 8:47 PM, BADDANDY said:

Tool tube complete.

 

 

 

 

What are you using to secure the tube in place?

[BADDANDY]

15 hours ago, slakdawg said:

What are you using to secure the tube in place?

The stock canister holder with added ziptie to unused engine mount

[Damonoid]

Does anyone know if removing the charcoal canister effects the emissions readings for UK MOT purposes?

[delirium]

7 minutes ago, Damonoid said:

Does anyone know if removing the charcoal canister effects the emissions readings for UK MOT purposes?

 

removing this doesn't affect any emission reading, it's just stupid idea not to vent into atmosphere but to the bucket...

then someday bucked get utilized and guess where all sh@#$t goes...

[Ichnusa]

You don't know how the canister is working.

[Hibobb]

@deliriumHummm, how'd you get that name?

[delirium]

routed nicely same as original along the skid plate to the back as it should be in first place from the factory.

 

 

[e010584]

So I haven't got around to making my tool tube with a trip to HD, but deleted everything but the solenoid valve (Euro 5 located by right fork leg inside fairing) which wasn't discussed in this thread as I suspect it may throw a fault code.  Probably easy enough to find a mating connector with an appropriate resistor, but has anybody done this?  Also went with Acerbis tank so underside vent is eliminated but haven't decided my cap vent routing yet (or locking cap that vents) beyond using a vacuum elbow on the cap to sit under any tank bag/luggage.

[AZJW]

23 minutes ago, e010584 said:

So I haven't got around to making my tool tube with a trip to HD, but deleted everything but the solenoid valve (Euro 5 located by right fork leg inside fairing) which wasn't discussed in this thread as I suspect it may throw a fault code.  Probably easy enough to find a mating connector with an appropriate resistor, but has anybody done this?  Also went with Acerbis tank so underside vent is eliminated but haven't decided my cap vent routing yet (or locking cap that vents) beyond using a vacuum elbow on the cap to sit under any tank bag/luggage.

Do you have a picture or Service Manual page image you can post for reference on that solenoid valve?  Our forum only has a 2020 Service Manual linked for reference so the Euro 5 model isn't included.

[e010584]

19 minutes ago, AZJW said:

Do you have a picture or Service Manual page image you can post for reference on that solenoid valve?  Our forum only has a 2020 Service Manual linked for reference so the Euro 5 model isn't included.

Don't have manual but here's a picture looking down right fork leg.  Solenoid valve is silver body in lower right with electrical connector tie wrapped to it.

[AZJW]

No such plumbing on my 2021 US model.  Hopefully someone with a Euro5 model will have some guidance on this.

 

[andy74rc]

On 12/19/2022 at 9:58 PM, AZJW said:

No such plumbing on my 2021 US model.  Hopefully someone with a Euro5 model will have some guidance on this.

 

 

 

Mine is a Euro5. Solenoid valve is where pointed couple of posts above.

Other than removing the tubes from the throttle body and plug them + running a tube from the tank vent same as the Euro 4 procedure, I just removed the tubing but left the valve in place and plugged independently the IN and OUT with a piece of silicone tube + screw. 

(Most important, being a race mod,  red silicone tubing MUST be used.  Bike will gain at least 5Hp..... )

 

Edited December 24, 2022 by andy74rc

[blazoPL]

Regarding solenoid valve, no need to leave it. I deleted charcoal canister with the solenoid valve. And plugged 2w resistor straight to a valve connector and taped it.

I have no errors on dash. You just need to measure resistance of that valve, if I remember correctly it was sth like 22ohms. 

[Dave D]

2022 E5 has solenoid valve as above. Measured 25 Ohms. Guess it is a mod to stop hot start problem. Stays shut during hot start probably. Not tested this. When canister deleted the hoses that go to this valve can be removed making a little better air flow round the cylinder head. Much tidier.

[Bruincounselor]

Today I pulled the stock tank and put a clear Acerbis tank on. The open vent line brought me here. I pulled the cannister and hoses to the solenoid and weighed it - 1 pound even. I decided to just cap the solenoid and leave the electronics alone; the hose to the throttle bodies isn't long. Between the tank and cannister I save 4 pounds AND added fuel capacity. 

[john_aero]

Plan on doing this with some other mods?

 

am in work at the moment, can anyone confirm the fuel line and cap size? I have seen both 4mm and 5mm listed in other posts online

 

debating to remove solenoid valve or just fit blanking caps like others have done

 

cheers.

[Redneckj]

2 hours ago, john_aero said:

Plan on doing this with some other mods?

 

am in work at the moment, can anyone confirm the fuel line and cap size? I have seen both 4mm and 5mm listed in other posts online

 

debating to remove solenoid valve or just fit blanking caps like others have done

 

cheers.

I’d like to know this as well.  Need to order parts and then find some spare time