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Tenerider's T7


Tenerider

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Removed one 5mm preload spacer. Apparently, one spacer is required to achieve zero preload, spring is too short otherwise.

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  • 4 weeks later...

7856 km: Tires changed to Anakee Wild with Michelin UHD tubes.

 

Profile depth front 7.75 mm, rear 10.40 mm.

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  • 4 months later...

9800 km: 10.000 km/6000 mi service, no issues. Oil and oil filter replaced.

 

10200 km: refreshed ACF-50 for corrosion protection (rear and side panels removed, all frame parts covered, underside of tank covered)

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  • 3 months later...
  • 3 months later...

12900 km: Cleaned & re-greased linkage bearings. Grease had turned red on the two lower bearings (those on the swingarm were fine), obviously some oxidation there. Overfilled all of them, so there's lesser chance for water to creep into again.

 

Replaced the lower shock bolt for the Racetorx bolt. No deformed shock eyelet etc yet.

 

Bearing sleeves looked like that (magnification exaggerates the marks):

20240212_122744.jpg.b3962a37c3c3a092674272e0dce2b186.jpg

20240212_122749.jpg.bf487b430d593e4b4845497982b4b70f.jpg

20240212_122806.jpg.bd6f6e67db1d85b5b49978c5a502771d.jpg

20240212_122818.jpg.50fdc2d5fa6348a0e36757a23a1a3552.jpg

 

After cleaning and polishing on a leather strop:

 

20240212_122733.jpg.6de0589a4f33f3213d6f67db46b1c78b.jpg

20240212_124138.jpg.6d3e1e49a6a7e1eade77f5e2bfae5127.jpg

20240212_124148.jpg.bd95ccbc065ea19a603bfadd32b40298.jpg

 

Slightly better perhaps, the parts in direct contact with the bearings itself look quite good.

 

 

 

Installed Ateka linkage protection:20240212_153316.jpg.778b670690819a6e550162a8dc8b80a7.jpg

 

P.S.: Linkage bearings and bolts were cleaned & greased at 5500 km (1.5 years ago). Held up pretty well over two winters and some very muddy rides, but they haven't seen much rain.

I might do this every autumn and spring now.

 

Bearings looked like that:

20240212_121312.jpg.43cd0c3a858211d0918c74a2344b5502.jpg

20240212_121435.jpg.7b1bc8c1ee1aee840c902bff22d6d2a5.jpg

20240212_121451.jpg.4882eca1c0aab8f28135aa8c365bb984.jpg

 

Edited by Tenerider
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  • 4 weeks later...

13400 km: Rear brake pads are pretty much done (almost down to the wear indicator). Changed them to Galfer semi-metallic pads, wasn't a tough job thanks to @AZJW 's great howto here on the board:

 

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  • 3 months later...

14999 km: Tires changed for Dunlop Trailmax Raids with new Heidenau HD tubes:

 

20240709_162355.jpg.c759e4c1b9d400b6fe7be1ef639e1b17.jpg

 

20240709_162411.jpg.8ccb0b32ee6df503ee1ede70fab49da2.jpg

 

Profile depth:

Front 8.4 mm

Rear 10.2 mm

 

The Anakee Wilds still look quite good after 7100 km:

 

20240709_162452.jpg.a1c1706d3326c5778c91ad2c6e163a30.jpg

 

20240709_162517.jpg.7226e242d4de3795f399a4d62c182c24.jpg

 

Rear detail: 20240709_162543.jpg.4be74eed8e3f03d268aff48b599ba179.jpg

 

Remaining profile depths:

Front 7.1-6.5 mm (new: 7.75 mm)

Rear 8.0-6.6 mm (new: 10.4 mm)

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15000 km: Brake fluid changed front/rear. Front still looked quite fresh, rear had a slight brownish tint already.

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2 hours ago, Tenerider said:

15000 km: Brake fluid changed front/rear. Front still looked quite fresh, rear had a slight brownish tint already.

Any special things to do because of the abs-pump? Or just flushing fresh brakefluid into the reservoir and lines?

I want to do this winter at 40.000 km service, combining with getting metal braided brakelines.

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11 minutes ago, BikeBrother said:

Any special things to do because of the abs-pump? Or just flushing fresh brakefluid into the reservoir and lines?

I want to do this winter at 40.000 km service, combining with getting metal braided brakelines.

Good question: I haven't found anything special neither in the owner's manual nor in the service manual. There wasn't even a hint which caliper on the front to bleed first. I've chosen to do the left first. In a Super Tenere forum I've come across an info regarding ABS: If you can't activate ABS bleed mode, you should simply operate the ABS after bleeding and then eventually re-bleed everything (probably won't do that because I've only flushed the system with fresh fluid, no actual bleeding to remove air in the system).

 

Bleeding was a bit of pain due to a malfunctioning compressed air bleeding kit which I borrowed from a friend. It didn't suck properly, which sucked 😁

So later I did it manually by pumping the lever. I hope I didn't introduce any air into the system due to this silly bleeding kit. But at least in the garage the brakes feel just fine. I found this vid helpful btw:

 

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Posted (edited)
4 hours ago, BikeBrother said:

@Tenerider

Thanks for the info.👍

Welcome mate!

 

15000 km: Replaced OEM battery with BSLi-01 LiFePO battery (24 Wh).

Edited by Tenerider
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15100 km: Fresh oil (Liqui Moly 10W-40 Offroad) and a new K&N oil filter.

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